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John Guest speedfit tank connector, quality fittings
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John Guest speedfit tank connector, quality fittings
nut on the back I would think, wall thickness normally not suitable for threaded hole
Not even looking at that at the minute till I get water and gas.Re the cambelt change, can you not see whether the cover fixings have all been disturbed - and not just wiped with an oily rag.
Not infallible, but may offer a clue.
They don't use push fit on German vans and you would still need to get at it from inside.John Guest speedfit tank connector, quality fittings
I get that, bodging it will do for a while but long term it isn’t great, something like CT 1 will work to get you goingBut would need a 2 foot long arm with a 90 degree bendvto get to the back of it .
But im not keen on trying to take it out just incase . To get the tank out this van youd have to dismantle it ar
I know, good long term solution though, replace pipe work with quality stuffThey don't use push fit on German vans and you would still need to get at it from inside.
You get more problems with push fit connectors in vehicles than with flexible pipe. Most German vans use flexible for that reason, push fit is fine in a house but not good in a van bumping over potholes.I know, good long term solution though, replace pipe work with quality stuff
I find if you fit it properly and have supporting pipe clips on either side of the fitting that JG works very well, not all push fits are equal, JG has double o ring pipe inserts and then the push fit connection and then a twist lock to secure the fitting so it’s triple protection really, I have heard enough horror stories about fittings chosen by manufacturers as OEM products so hard to know for the bestYou get more problems with push fit connectors in vehicles than with flexible pipe. Most German vans use flexible for that reason, push fit is fine in a house but not good in a van bumping over potholes.
Yes I've seen those threaded ports which is why I wondered. There's no way someone could get in to the back of that elbow to put a nut on it. But I'm hesitant to remove it as if it does have a nut and I slacken it then I'm stuffed. We've bought this very expensive fish tank type sealant ...in the hope we can put that around the elbow for now and hope that seals itMost tanks now come with moulded in threaded holes with the tank wall at the base .You just knock out the threaded one you want leaving all the others .I have a couple of overordered/spare tanks here that are like that, Thread depth is usually 20-25mm.
But before the tank is fitted it will have been put in?Yes I've seen those threaded ports which is why I wondered. There's no way someone could get in to the back of that elbow to put a nut on it. But I'm hesitant to remove it as if it does have a nut and I slacken it then I'm stuffed. We've bought this very expensive fish tank type sealant ...in the hope we can put that around the elbow for now and hope that seals it
Was thinking exactly the same, allowing easy access to clean ( particularly as the van has been standing for so long) and fit the new outlet pipeAnother thought, you could fit a watertight inspection hatch next to the outlet and this would allow you to get into the tank, something like this
Yeah we took a photo .. there's no nut inside BUT the elbow has been fitted before the tank was so couldn't unscrew it because of the floor. I could however cut the elbow off and fit a straight one later but for now we've just put some of this fish tank sealant round it to see if it works for now and I can figure out a better method when back at garrysProbably worth getting an enduroscope then you could have a look inside the tank.
I agree with you, but would a add some stainless screws for for bolts and braces .Why not cut the damaged corner off, get another 90 degree bend and cut the corner off that to match what you've just done, then get some permanent plastic adhesive (the fish stuff should work) and stick the new corner patch on. Job done.
Depends what the plastic is you can't glue polypropylene has to be welded.Why not cut the damaged corner off, get another 90 degree bend and cut the corner off that to match what you've just done, then get some permanent plastic adhesive (the fish stuff should work) and stick the new corner patch on. Job done.
That Milliput is good stuffYes I was thinking that too. I have ob1 here that works under water
My soldering iron is gas powered.Just realised you won't have 240v for the soldering iron!
Nah, he's a proper rufty tufty MHer ... gotta be gaffer tape!I agree with you, but would a add some stainless screws for for bolts and braces .