MOBY GOES TO TURKEY. A tam and pups adventure.

I would still check the ground to chassis. I did mentioned a while back a simple test with the volt meter. While engine running, read the voltage on the battery terminals, then read the battery but move the negative probe on the engine block, while you still have the positive probe on the battery. If you get a higher reading with the negative of the engine block rather than the battery, then it’s clear the negative bonding from engine to the chassis it’s compromised.
 
I would still check the ground to chassis. I did mentioned a while back a simple test with the volt meter. While engine running, read the voltage on the battery terminals, then read the battery but move the negative probe on the engine block, while you still have the positive probe on the battery. If you get a higher reading with the negative of the engine block rather than the battery, then it’s clear the negative bonding from engine to the chassis it’s compromised.
I was thinking how on earth this was possible then I realised not all vans have battery under passengers feet like Ducato :ROFLMAO:
 
I was thinking how on earth this was possible then I realised not all vans have battery under passengers feet like Ducato :ROFLMAO:
You still have power points in the front from the battery. Otherwise you improvise, read the battery, the have a wire attached to positive to reach the front.
 
I would still check the ground to chassis. I did mentioned a while back a simple test with the volt meter. While engine running, read the voltage on the battery terminals, then read the battery but move the negative probe on the engine block, while you still have the positive probe on the battery. If you get a higher reading with the negative of the engine block rather than the battery, then it’s clear the negative bonding from engine to the chassis it’s compromised.
I'll try that in the morning if it starts .

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Yes I said in that post I got over 14v briefly then it dropped again to under 13v

I since discovered that briefly is the 3 seconds every 15 seconds that the ablemail is putting charge in from my leisure battery which was being charged by the b2b so read over 14v .

But once the battery has gone flat like it has today again the b2b switches itself off and has to be reset .


Even after the garage fitted the new alternator when I put my voltmeter on the battery with engine running just idling it only showed around 12.9v.

The problem with being solo is I can't hold the revs up and check voltage on battery at the same time.
 
I don't understand how the battery maintainer ie the ablemail is putting charge in when the engine is running. It can only be because its detecting the battery to be below the set voltage.

It's definitely not getting a charge from the alternator. It's just a case of figuring out if there's a wiring fault or if there's a fault inside the battery.

I will try Raul s suggestion in the morning

I'm off to bed
 
Too many cooks in this kitchen…. Back to basics and start from the beginning Tam, ruling out the obvious first and slowly work your way through it…

Raul and Lenny HB will get you through it…👍🏼😎
🥴

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Suitable length of wood between accelerator and drivers seat. (y)
I was thinking a brick/rock etc ...
Yeah I mean I've done that before jammed my straight bar between seat and pedal etc and yesterday I had my smallest tool box pushing the pedal down a bit . But its not ideal. Hard to hold it at a steady rev that doesn't have it revving it's head off.



Anyway I'm getting up now , once I've had some coffee and taken the dogs out for a pee etc I will have a look once again .

My head is nipping with all this . Every bloody van I get electrical issues......every feckin one. Even when I've tried to prevent them beforehand. It's very wearing
 
When you look back on your previous mechanical problems there was only one outcome - sorted everytime!
This will just be the same outcome, only problem is you are in the middle of it.
Keep at it and try not to worry yourself too much and know you will get sorted and enjoy your trip.
Good luck pal.

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Right then

So I've measured the voltage on the battery terminals this morning before starting the engine and it reads 12.34v terminals are tight. I can't see where the negative lead from the battery goes yo without the van being on a lift.

I'm now going to try starting it and see what voltage reads with engine running.
 
OK so it started but not enthusiastically. Measuring the same place with engine on idle its reading 12.08v if I hold the earth lead from voltmeter to the only metal part of the engine I can reach it reads the same 12.08v

Putting my toolbox on the pedal to raise the revs to about 2000rpm it makes no difference it's still only reading 12.08v
 
And I can't turn it off as it will most likely not start again.

So I'm stumped. It isn't fecking charging.
Drive to nearest halfords or kwik fit type place or garage and get it drop tested to see if its battery. At least then you could get a jump start if more detailed work needed to get you to a garage?

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My only suggestion now is, with the engine running, disconnect the negative lead from the battery and measure the voltage on the negative lead.

If the voltage is good (circa 14V) then that suggests that the battery is pulling the the alternator output down and indicates that the battery is knackered.

Edit: perhaps switch all your lights on before disconnecting the negative lead so that the alternator has a load on it. If you’re needing to get somewhere, perhaps leave this test until later in the day.

Ian
 
Battery now reading 11.9v so it's actually losing charge with the engine running. I've disconnected the ablemail battery maintainer just now as its still putting in charge from my leisure battery even when engine is running. Probably because it detects the battery is low .

There's a few euromaster garages around so I think I'll drive to one of those and see if they can test it.
 
My only suggestion now is, with the engine running, disconnect the negative lead from the battery and measure the voltage on the negative lead.

If the voltage is good (circa 14V) then that suggests that the battery is pulling the the alternator output down and indicates that the battery is knackered.

Ian
How do I do that?

Do I put pos lead on battery as normal and then the neg on the disconnected lead?
 
My only suggestion now is, with the engine running, disconnect the negative lead from the battery and measure the voltage on the negative lead.

If the voltage is good (circa 14V) then that suggests that the battery is pulling the the alternator output down and indicates that the battery is knackered.

Edit: perhaps switch all your lights on before disconnecting the negative lead so that the alternator has a load on it. If you’re needing to get somewhere, perhaps leave this test until later in the day.

Ian
OK that didn't work . I disconnected the negative lead and the engine stopped


Probably won't start again now
 
Right by a stroke of luck it started again despite the battery reading only 11.8v not wanting to mess with it in this street anymore in case I can't get it started again I'm going to drive to euromaster
 
OK that didn't work . I disconnected the negative lead and the engine stopped


Probably won't start again now

Bugger!

I’m not sure why it should have stopped the engine as the earth path should still have been available through the negative lead.

Hope it starts again for you.🤞

Ian
 
Bugger!

I’m not sure why it should have stopped the engine as the earth path should still have been available through the negative lead.

Hope it starts again for you.🤞

Ian
Sorry I'm confused you told him to disconnect the -ve lead so how could it earth if hanging in mid air or am I being stupid?
 
Sorry I'm confused you told him to disconnect the -ve lead so how could it earth if hanging in mid air or am I being stupid?

The battery only stores energy that is supplied by the alternator. The alternator still has a circuit between its positive and the chassis to which the negative lead is connected.

Ian
 

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