What have you fixed on your motorhome this week?

I’m trying to join the grey to the brown . The grey appears to be glued and there is no flexibility to be found in moving pipes
 
I’m trying to join the grey to the brown . The grey appears to be glued and there is no flexibility to be found in moving pipes

Buy one of these :- http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338547443&icep_item=183812344443

The black outer is only an insulator, so cut off say 6" of the black, then cut off about 4" of the brown, fit the joiner you have now brought to the end of the brown, then fit the bit of brown you cut off to the other end of the joiner. This will have extended the brown pipe by about 4", now giving you enough length to rejoin the brown to the troublesome grey.
 
We have been trying to work out why we have no heating in bathroom. Cold air is always blowing.We have only had the van since July and despite going back to the dealers it has not been out to be solved. In one of the drawers I put some chocolate to discover that it had melted.This was the first weekend we really put the heating on. We were going out for a walk so I left it but it, but it really bugged me all day.
For some reason late last night, I started to go on my hands and knees looking behind drawers and I found the heating pipe not connected. Getting the drawer out was a struggle because when the drawer retainer had been fitted the screws have been mashed.? Finally, at 10:30pm last night the drawer came out? We’ve managed to join them together with good old gaffa tape. But it looks like we will need a larger piece of that white joiner as it appears the pipe has been cut short any idea where I can get some
had a similar problem on mine but easily sorted by stretching the inner and outer pipes without problem.
 
Nothing !!!! Well it's not for the want of trying. I have some small blisters in the paint on the GRP pod over the cab. General suggestions are moisture under the paint (looks like it's been done some time in the past) rather than a serious GRP issue (I hope). Trying to find a reputable person to sort it out seems hard work. See a company, phone them up, no reply. E mail them.....out of business. Try again this week I suppose.
Where are you based? As the local motorhome and caravaners swear by Motorhome and Caravan Repairs in Preston.
Phil
 
We have been trying to work out why we have no heating in bathroom. Cold air is always blowing.We have only had the van since July and despite going back to the dealers it has not been out to be solved. In one of the drawers I put some chocolate to discover that it had melted.This was the first weekend we really put the heating on. We were going out for a walk so I left it but it, but it really bugged me all day.
For some reason late last night, I started to go on my hands and knees looking behind drawers and I found the heating pipe not connected. Getting the drawer out was a struggle because when the drawer retainer had been fitted the screws have been mashed.? Finally, at 10:30pm last night the drawer came out? We’ve managed to join them together with good old gaffa tape. But it looks like we will need a larger piece of that white joiner as it appears the pipe has been cut short any idea where I can get some

Be very careful about rerouting pipes I moved a squashed heating pipe which was jammed under the sink waste pipe, and what Happened ? the heating pipe was holding the waste pipe in position , so moving it was not a good idea, as the waste pipe fell off and the sink water flooded the motorhome !! :devil:, otherwise known as a Chausson French bodge .

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Not fixed but home made to make room for extras. Lighting on door switch too. Made it QD because there's a major wiring junction behind it.

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An adaption.
Before buying a `66` reg Bailey Approach Advance 640 in March 2019 we viewed a few others in dealerships.
3 of the vans all had same damage on the Aluminium protective step strip , from cab down to lounge/hab area.
Problem being when front seats are swivelled around as soon as you stood up you are standing right on the edge of the step.
Pic1 is showing the aluminium angle step protector (thats actually the step from lounge/hab area to kitchen, but the same)
Pic 2 & 3 showing an aluminium horizontal top threshold strip bought at screwfix and aluminium vertical fascia plate bought at B&Q.
Pics 2 & 3 are fixed to a batton behind them which is 50mm velcroed to step so can be removed if needed.
Total cost about £12 before step gets damaged
 

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In the last week got most of what we wanted to get sorted before heading out.
1. Had alarm system fitted
2. Fitted satellite dish to roof and all wired into new wall mounted TV (all previously removed from caravan).
3. Fitted 120w solar panels to make 200w total. Changed the Regulator to a good quality MPPT regulator (previously removed from caravan)
4. Fitted Sterling Battery to Battery charger system (previously taken out of caravan).
5. Fitted 1500w Inverter with Anderson connectors.
6. Fitted Anderson connectors to both leisure batteries and 12v point in engine bay.
We are ready to go. Got enough power to live off grid forever.
 
The Rimor is going into the workshop this weekend.

We want to get rid of the stupid little LED lights above the centre bed. Here's the thing. When switched on, they are so bright, they cause ships to alter course. When switched off there is a tiny courtesy LED to show you where the light is, should you want it in the middle of the night. At three in the morning, there is nothing courteous about it. We've tried painting it out, insulation tape, hitting it, swearing, but no. It is ridiculously bright and we want them gone.

And a few other things like service, moving the table, habitation, rubber seal for the Omnistor, etc, but nothing that will keep the peace like the removal of those sodding lights.

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Finally finished the reseal and polish, i've only got a few plastic accessory covers and lids to replace or paint next to complete.
Unfortunately I have some deep scratches on the rear so I am thinking of a respray or a vynal wrap.
Unless you know of anyone who wants some free advertising space :unsure:
 

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Finally finished the reseal and polish, i've only got a few plastic accessory covers and lids to replace or paint next to complete.
Unfortunately I have some deep scratches on the rear so I am thinking of a respray or a vynal wrap.
Unless you know of anyone who wants some free advertising space :unsure:
You know it’s going to get all dirty again the minute you drive it out of that farmyard...?
 
Got the alarm fixed. Thanks, Vanbitz and a much overdue service and troubleshoot of the Alde heating system - recommend the guys at Wellingborough. Going to fix an iPad mount for navigation shortly as using copilot on the phone screen is a bit of a pain
 
Fixed the air suspension.
Installed 2 x USB power sockets.
Installed 2 x 12v cig lighter sockets.
Currently installing 2 x fans for the fridge complete with controller but not 100% sure of temp settings on at 32 off at 25 deg C?
(nearly done).
????????????????

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iPad stand off amazon, stuck down with 3M VHB double side tape, and iPad in folder secured with Velcro. Very solid even on bumpy roads. Google maps shown for colour but I normally use CoPilot. Very pleased as it was a cheap fix. Linked into stereo via Bluetooth so can stream music/radio and hear directions clearly through speakers

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Currently installing 2 x fans for the fridge complete with controller but not 100% sure of temp settings on at 32 off at 25 deg C?
I think at those temps it`ll run more or less constantly.
Ive got mine at 38 on and 28 off, I think, and that runs constantly in warm climates but it`s quiet and helps the fridge so I haven`t bothered to alter it.
It did make me wonder why I bothered fitting a controller though
 
Many thanks for your reply.
This is a new gadget to me and am testing the water.
Finally got it all fitted today but our drive is on a slope so can't test it until i put it on the road.
Then i can take some temperature readings and post on HERE.
Pictures to follow (would have taken them today but fingers cold and a warming Brandy made me forget)☺
Would any other funsters like to add your settings.
 
When I bought my 2009 Cheyenne in 2016 it had the Autotrail AVAT090 single DIN head unit and DVB-T mobile digital TV receiver. Both had limitations and last year I replaced the head unit with a Sony double DIN unit which has been vastly superior in performance. With Bluetooth and a generous data allowance on my French mobile, I can now listen to Radio 2 on the road just about anywhere in Europe. I now have a reversing camera screen that I can actually see, too!:giggle:

The problem with the TV tuner was that, whilst it worked fine in the UK and I could pick the Freeview channels, it didn't pick up any channels in France and the only time it has worked here was down in La Linea, near Gibraltar, where it picked up a number of Spanish and Gibraltar channels. I must say I was disappointed with Gibraltar TV - maybe it was my timing but they seemed to only broadcast pictures of flowers and rather earnest religious discussion programmes....:unsure:

I'm not planning to bring the MH back to the UK any time soon and normally rely on my sat dish and Humax box for TV down here. I can get sufficient channels to keep me amused some way into Spain but thought it would be nice to have the digital terrestral option for further afield. I also still had the 11" drop-down TV monitor on the cab ceiling, which had been redundant since the Sony unit was installed, not having a convenient (as I thought) cable to connect through to the monitor.

Anyway, this week I bought a Link Removed receiver for just under €35 on Amazon France, reasoning that if it didn't work, I haven't lost too much. It arrived yesterday and I fitted it in the Sargent charger locker, where the original tuner had been. The switched power supply to the monitor and original tuner was used to supply the new tuner. The head-scratching bit came when sussing out how to supply the monitor with the video signal from the Strom unit, via the Sony head unit.

The monitor is connected with a yellow RCA cable leading to the Sargent locker but I needed the cable to reach the video out socket on the back of the Sony head unit. Construction of the cab precluded any route behind the headlining. Scrabbling about in the dash behind the head unit I found the unused red and white audio RCA cables which also led back to the Sargent locker. I plugged the white RCA cable into the video unit socket on the head unit, then cut off the yellow and white RCA plugs in the Sargent locker and soldered the two leads together. Success - a picture on the monitor! I have an option to switch off the picture on the Sony head unit, so it's all worked out as hoped for:giggle:

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I think I'll make do with the 11" monitor for a while.....
 
Just waved goodbye to Wildbill who came over to replace my front struts, bearing and bearing mounts on my new(to me) van.

Crazy job. The manufacturer of the mounts had installed the bearings upside down sealed side up protected from the road and open side down open to the road.
Then when we got it fitted there was a gap between the top plate and the chassis which looked wrong. Much head scratching, in and out and messing around and ended up putting them both in and test driving. Everything fine. I did some research on the net and the gap is apparently normal. It now drives and steers beautifully.

Great job again by Wildbill. Thanks fella.

Just the anti roll bar bushes to replace and I will be happy with the van again.

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I have complemented my electrics with a dc-dc charger, from starter to house battery bank. It’s only a 9A, more than enough for my needs from alternator. Most of charging is done by solar. I will step up IF is not enough. I have set it up at 13.55,(LFP) So it charges only if the bank been discharged some and not to fully charge. Final charging is controlled by the solar controller.
 

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This week we paid a man to disconnect the Thatcham-approved Cobra engine immobiliser. It was responsible for an intermittent fault that meant I couldn’t start the engine every time I turned the ignition. If it didn’t start with the first turn of the key I would have to wait two minutes for it to re-set. You can imagine that was not very convenient when you’re in the queue for the ferry and everyone around you is boarding and you’re left on the quayside. According to the alarm man, it was not the Cobra alarm’s fault. It was the wrong alarm for the Fiat.
Unfortunately, in the process of disconnecting the immobiliser another wire became dislodged. When I went to drive away from the workshop the gearbox was stuck in 1st. Luckily the guy realised what may have happened and corrected it very quickly, but it just goes to show how “fly-by-wire” our vehicles are.
 
Peugeot Boxer BlueHDi 2018 130. Remote key fob not working. So I changed the key fob battery (CR2032) - no difference. All I was getting was a slight "click" and the habitation lights flickered. I don't know why but I had a suspicion that perhaps a battery terminal was loose, so up came the cab carpet, and the hatch in the passenger footwell to expose the battery. Sure enough - one of the terminal nuts was loose. Tightened it up and problem solved. But wondering why there is this complicated arrangement of terminals and connectors bolted to the top of the battery - I think it will be a garage job to fit a new one!

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Old 20 year old sink mixer tap out and new (B&Q clearance) shiny new mixer tap in.

Didn't need three elbows like on most plumbing jobs.
 
Time for a new battery on our Hymer S700, should be easy enough, chuffing hell that was difficult. The battery is hard enough to release from its fixings, but with patience I got there, then the fun really starts. There is very little wriggle and the battery is heavy ! Lifting the old one out and the replacement back in is fraught with risk of damaging the a/c unit/pipes plus electrical wires everywhere. Anyways we got there in the end, I was feeling mildly pleased with myself until I noticed the battery condition gauge on the control panel. GRRRR
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wasn’t working anymore.
 
Finished welding on repair plates to RH front of chassis, replaced corroded front cross member, changed the cam belt, refitted all the fibreglass A class lower front bodywork. Loads of work and the van does not look a jot better to a casual view. Wifey wonders what I have been doing all that time.
 
Finally finished the reseal and polish, i've only got a few plastic accessory covers and lids to replace or paint next to complete.
Unfortunately I have some deep scratches on the rear so I am thinking of a respray or a vynal wrap.
Unless you know of anyone who wants some free advertising space :unsure:
Looking nice. AS someone pointed out it will get mucky 1st run. But, like me if you dont maintain your wagon and keep it looking good, its never going to look good or make it all the easier to clean up again next time round. I have seen 2019 plates not as tidy as your 9 plate there. Spot on.
 
Well not exactly fixed but fitted a 14kg Alugas refillable to our 194, had to elevate the bulkhead regulator but overall a neat job. Today’s job is a proper Perspex splashback for the bathroom, more pics when completed!44F17067-EE9C-421F-B9D4-3A3B43892737.jpeg

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