The resurrection of Doc, bringing a 20 year old neismann Bischoff Flair back to life after 12 years off road.

Mines identical yes some ones put a strip,I directed mine to the front and away.
 
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As said availble at any plumbers.get a new one ,add fitting on the left which will be thread to a barb connector, clamp hose with two bits thin wood & mole grips & remove valve in that shut position & change it live.
I have to put a bit tissue in the corner to soak it up
That isn't "a bit" that isn't even a "speck" .tear an old T shirt in half & shove that along it for now until you drill/cut another slot to allow it back to the other channel
That's a previous owners attempt at solving the problem ..because the water coming down inside channel has nowhere to go unfortunately
as above
Those ball valves are available any plumbers merchants/ hydraulics not worth fiddling with .
This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
Yes it's definitely the engine side the valve is on . I've taken a couple of photos now. There's a wee screw on the top of the valve and it's a little loose and the water seems to come from under that valve. I'll try tightening it a little .. ( when rain stops and I can get my tools 🤣🤣) View attachment 955283View attachment 955284View attachment 955286

The window is a confusing one. There's 2 channels inside and the water seems to come down the inside one more which makes it harder to get to the drain holes 🤔
I have to put a bit tissue in the corner to soak it up otherwise it comes over the edge and you can see from last photo it's done that before while it's been parked up as its stained the wall under window a little.

I'm not parked perfectly level which won't help but I'll need to find a way of stopping that View attachment 955288View attachment 955289View attachment 955290View attachment 955291
Had the same problem with the Alde valve on our Dethleffs if I remember correctly the ends it screws into are tapered threads and if it's been over tightened it cracks the valve ours had a hairline crack and took ages to suss out .
 
Re your ball valve. The screw on top only holds the plastic handle in place, I don’t think there will be a gland nut under handle. Just smiffy idea may work but they start to leak they don’t get any better. As has also been said they are easy to over tighten and crack the body.
 
Are you running your Alde heating on gas Tam. And can you run it off your battery setup or do you have to be on hook up to run it on electric.

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There's a wee screw on the top of the valve and it's a little loose and the water seems to come from under that valve. I'll try tightening it a little .. ( when rain stops and I can get my tools 🤣🤣) View attachment 955283View attachment 955284
That wee screw just fixes the plastic handle to the valve, you'll not cure the leak by tightening it up. I would suggest the valve itself needs repalacing.
 
I haven’t even looked at this valve yet, I’m sure we’ll get it fixed….👍🏼

I think he just makes up these jobs so he doesn’t have to leave, he’s on about buying plants now and I hope he don’t put them in my artificial grass… I’m sure I’ll go out there one day and he’ll have a little picket fence around the van with a post box, even my postie man has a daily chat with him now….😆

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But in heavy rain the water comes quicker than it drains and the drain holes are clear as I cleaned them all out last week .
Without wishing to state the obvious Tam, but did you remove the outer grey caps from the outer frame when you cleaned out the drain holes, as well as the inner frame black caps covering the drain holes?
The cut outs between the channels are the manufacturers design.

Just finished the final stage of replacing the Gaslow system and altering the filler point, with a bit of help from a local fellow Funster and his step drill (y), as I hate drilling holes anywhere in the MH. :(

Previous setup.

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New setup.

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We did consider an underslung bulk gas tank when we first got the Flair, but have managed fine with just the 2 x 11s. (y)

Cheers,

Jock. :)
 
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I haven’t even looked at this valve yet, I’m sure we’ll get it fixed….👍🏼

I think he just makes up these jobs so he doesn’t have to leave, he’s on about buying plants now and I hope he don’t put them in my artificial grass… I’m sure I’ll go out there one day and he’ll have a little picket fence around the van with a post box, even my postie man has a daily chat with him now….😆
Watch he don’t claim squatters rights Gary. 😂👍
Have you seen the weather in Cornwall lol.. there's nae danger I'd be here after October lol.

But Just smiffy has made me very comfortable, it's been nice having a bit company and banter too I must admit.

But no need to panic as I am getting itchy feet. Just want to fix all the issues I can before hitting the road.

I will have to run the heating for a few hours at some point to make sure it's all OK and no leaks etc from the Alde side of things
 
Just smiffy was saying to work it on and off for a few minutes to see if that stops it as it's possibly leaking from lack of use. Can't hurt I suppose. I'll have a look at it this afternoon.
My advice would be to junk those type of valves, they are rubbish!
As for the window leak, those drain holes are really only for condensation and often get bunged up with dust and dead insects that make them their home especially it hasn't been moved for a long time, presumably you have checked they are clear?

Whenever I have a window leak, I run a strip of Gaffer tape along the top outside edge of the window sealing it directly to the body, just to eliminate the the leak is not seeping past the seal. It's surprising the number of times this has stopped the leak immediately.
If it does, it's either a new seal or some sealant. If it doesn't, I look elsewhere!

As my van is silver and so is the gaffer tape,(other colours and even clear, are available) it is hardly noticeable and has, sometimes, been in situ for weeks! Good luck! 👍
 
The cause of my window leak was a bit of rubber seal missing. I've sealed that with some ob1 ..I might add a bit more later to try and tidy that up a bit. But hopefully reduces the amount of water that comes in
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Then we went shopping for some storage boxes .

And I did a few modifications in my side locker to hold the containers and to stop stuff falling off the shelf. I can now store bottles etc along the edge and there's a spot to put my hoover or drill batteries to charge them from the small 300watt inverter .

And generally just tidied up the locker as previous owner had cut the shelf to accommodate a gas bottle in there. So with some leftover 2x1 and plywood from repairs to moby I've created more useful storage areas. And then I stained them and the existing unstained framework in there for the seat base etc. .

Before
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And after
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P.s the small metal bracket on floor will be painted when I'm painting the towbar etc black.


Next area to sort out will be the garage....

Suggestions for a use for the old battery box are welcome .
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My advice would be to junk those type of valves, they are rubbish!
As for the window leak, those drain holes are really only for condensation and often get bunged up with dust and dead insects that make them their home especially it hasn't been moved for a long time, presumably you have checked they are clear?

Whenever I have a window leak, I run a strip of Gaffer tape along the top outside edge of the window sealing it directly to the body, just to eliminate the the leak is not seeping past the seal. It's surprising the number of times this has stopped the leak immediately.
If it does, it's either a new seal or some sealant. If it doesn't, I look elsewhere!

As my van is silver and so is the gaffer tape,(other colours and even clear, are available) it is hardly noticeable and has, sometimes, been in situ for weeks! Good luck! 👍
Yes I cleaned out all the drain holes the day after I bought the van .. took all the external covers off.
 
The window is a confusing one. There's 2 channels inside and the water seems to come down the inside one more which makes it harder to get to the drain holes 🤔
We had a similar problem with our Auto trail except there were no drain holes. The Chanel would fill and it would make it's way into the inner window ledge. We drilled a couple of external drainage holes and, to help it drain, threaded a couple of bits of string through, knotting the internal end. The water collects in the channel soaks the string and makes it way to outside by capillary action. Worked a treat for us and really speeded up the drainage. Might be worth a try if you can get some string through your drainage holes.
 
Is the window still going to open Tam, looks like all the rubbers need pulling out and a good clean up one day, with a bit of a stretch they might go back or otherwise you might get spare profiles on your travels.
 
Is the window still going to open Tam, looks like all the rubbers need pulling out and a good clean up one day, with a bit of a stretch they might go back or otherwise you might get spare profiles on your travels.
Yes I've opened and closed it a few times since sealing it. Waiting on the rain again to see if it worked lol.
 
Or fit a small floor safe :) - but don't tell anyone!!!!
Already got one and a wine seller .

But keep that quiet lol

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Are you running your Alde heating on gas Tam. And can you run it off your battery setup or do you have to be on hook up to run it on electric.
It runs on gas but the pump that circulates it will use battery power.
 
The valve on the heat exchanger is a Ballofix type , it is an o-ring on the shaft , it’s a common problem when used on heating / hot water systems , moving it is not advisable, it may re seat but more likely to aggravate an already perished o-ring
As a plumber I’ve seen hundreds like this

Even if re seated with movement it needs replaced as it is a leak that won’t go away

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