Cool ....
I'd imagine so
Only if everything on the engine side was running, i.e. Headlamps, fog lamps, heater full blast, wipers, aircon etc., & the engine battery was low. Even then I think you would still get a decent charge rate.
Quiet night tonight Tam?
Yeah when I was looking the other week there were 3 options 90 , 120,150
It was busy earlier but down to dribs and drabs at the minute .....shops full of pissheads .
Alternator current output isn't particularly relevant for charging purposes. As Lenny HB said it only matters if a lot of base vehicle services are in use when either of the batteries are being charged. It might matter in the middle of a cold, wet, & dark winters night when heater, lights, wipers, etc are in use. Carry on with the tests Tam - we're heading in the right direction.
The B2B was designed especially for people who stay a few nights in one place then move on. Just choose one from a recognised supplier of quality van battery charging kit. Sterling or Victron sell good stuff. No doubt someone on here will recommend one or the other.
Aye i was looking at the sterling ones on ebay ....seems to be a few different ones
I think I would go for a Votronic, not impressed with the sterling one.
I'm not sure i have a jump lead long enough but I do have a 5 metre length of cable the same thickness as the wires going from battery to ebl at the minute
If the alternator voltage doesn't drop under the highest load you can place on it then there's no need to measure current. The only thing that drives the charging current is the voltage at the alternator. It cannot exceed approx 14.5v and should hold 14+v up to its rated output current. There's nothing to be gained by measuring current as well. Follow that voltage from the alternator to the battery. If it drops below 14v anywhere between the alternator and the leisure battery you have just passed the problem area. Doing anything else will confuse the issue - or confuse Tam Northernraider. Running a bypass cable is fine but the only check needed once that's done is to look for an increase in voltage at the leisure battery.
That could be handy if they reachI have industrial starter leads....the clamps are very strong and thick cable.
I will drop them off if you want.
Definitely want you to get to the bottom of this problem
Guys you are confusing me again lol
I will be 45 minsThat could be handy if they reach
It's not something I would have considered (or have ever come across) because without circuitry to do that (or become faulty) you'd expect enough heat to generate at least smoke if not worse. But it is possible. Save it up to further irritate Tam if we run out of other ways to do so
.
I thought I had read earlier in this thread that Tam had read higher voltages than this in his system , or am I doting
No you're correct but I'm trying hard to focus on the current (see what I did there) issue. If he did see a very high voltage (I think he mentioned 17v) then the alternator is faulty without question.
Yes he did have 17v one day that is why I suspect the alternator has a problem.
If that was a reliable measurement then no further alternator tests are needed - it needs either a new regulator or a new alternator. A new alternator probably better for Tam. If that was mine and I'd taken the measurement it would be long gone. It's the only alternator fault that can do serious damage elsewhere.
A proper rig is simply a convenience. Testing can be done equally well on the vehicle if it can be heavily loaded and run until it's hot. Again - I'd only need to see an over-high output once before replacing it.
i agree if i saw 17v it would be in the bin potential for so much damage
I did suggest he fitted a new regulator.
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