Starlink ordered… I feel it’s the only sensible option now..

Your idea with those is the same principle as my suggestion, but probably a lot neater, however the male (with pins), would have to be fitted to the box, to receive the live female, in order to.prevent exposure to 240v.

1687173814074.png


1687173915180.png


Cheers,

Jock. :)
 
Use xt60 connectors. Very reliable and perfect for this application 👍🏻

Some surface mount ones I’ve just seen on Amazon for you. Usually they are yellow which is what I’ve used over the years.

Nuofany 5Pairs Amass XT60EW-M XT60W-F Mountable XT60E Male Female Plug Connector for RC Drone Aircraft FPV Racing Drone Amazon product ASIN B0BJZ6Z8Z3
thanks, but they need to be three pins from the router to the '12/48v supply' - 12v, 48v, gnd - i intend to make the 12v to the 12/48v stabiliser/transofrmer a permanant fixture, hidden away with only the outlet to the router visible - hope that makes senses, but happy to consider any advice/suggestions
 
Your idea with those is the same principle as my suggestion, but probably a lot neater, however the male (with pins), would have to be fitted to the box, to receive the live female, in order to.prevent exposure to 240v.

View attachment 771313

View attachment 771314

Cheers,

Jock. :)
thanks, but far too big for permanantly attaching to the router. the connections etc will all be inside the motorhome

This is the space I have available to mount an external connection point

IMG_20230619_124546.jpg


IMG_20230619_124603.jpg



i am also considering if i can fit some sort of molex socket, which i can glue to the casing and cut a hole so that a 3 pin connector can be inserted. or even one of those 'aircraft' type plugs and sockets.
 
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I don't really understand what you are doing sorry. But I would not use those connectors for anything other than feeding in 240V. Sorry If I am misunderstanding you.
can you explain why please? its just a matter of a three wire connector of some sort, i didnt think it would matter whether they were used for 12v or 48v as the way i intend doing it wouldnt allow anything other than a male plug to be plugged in. A 240v standard kettle lead for example is terminated in a female end, so couldnt possibly be plugged into either of the connections as they would both be female ends
 
can you explain why please? its just a matter of a three wire connector of some sort, i didnt think it would matter whether they were used for 12v or 48v as the way i intend doing it wouldnt allow anything other than a male plug to be plugged in. A 240v standard kettle lead for example is terminated in a female end, so couldnt possibly be plugged into either of the connections as they would both be female ends
They are designed for 240V. It leaves open the opportunity for someone to screw up in the future if confused. People are dumb and will do dumb things (not you) and you have to protect them from themselves.

I write software and you would be surprised how often users do things in a way I had not anticipated and cause problems. So I won't even try to guess all the ways this could backfire in the future :p

But one thought does spring to mind. They may think that it is a 240V supply and plug say their monitor into. No telling what damage that could do to either device. Feeding DC into a device that wants AC. probably a transformer in there so could act as a short. If it is a SMPS then not sure what effect DC would have on the monitor. Either way there would be a situation the manufacturer/designed had not anticipated and has not protected against. It could cause a fire theoretically.

I am sorry but as an engineer I dislike doing things that have potential for unknown consequences.

But, that said. It would work and it would ok while you were the owner and sole operator I am sure.

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They are designed for 240V. It leaves open the opportunity for someone to screw up in the future if confused. People are dumb and will do dumb things (not you) and you have to protect them from themselves.

I write software and you would be surprised how often users do things in a way I had not anticipated and cause problems. So I won't even try to guess all the ways this could backfire in the future :p

But one thought does spring to mind. They may think that it is a 240V supply and plug say their monitor into. No telling what damage that could do to either device. Feeding DC into a device that wants AC. probably a transformer in there so could act as a short. If it is a SMPS then not sure what effect DC would have on the monitor. Either way there would be a situation the manufacturer/designed had not anticipated and has not protected against. It could cause a fire theoretically.

I am sorry but as an engineer I dislike doing things that have potential for unknown consequences.

But, that said. It would work and it would ok while you were the owner and sole operator I am sure.
i fully understand your concern and agree with you, i was hoping that by using female connectors in both of the fixed locations then no one could plug anything into them ? the lead to connect them would have male connections, wheras 'kettle type' leads are terminated with a female connection. the main downside i can see would be if someone connected the proposed connecting lead into a 'kettle lead' but i dont see why anyone would do that as it wouldnt allow them to connect it to anything else. though as with all things, some peoples attempts to reduce the gene pool cant go ignored.

ideally i am looking for something that is small enough to allow me to fit it permanently to the casing of the router, as though its always been there. i actually think the connectors i highlighted will be too big for the casing to make it look 'stock'
 
i fully understand your concern and agree with you, i was hoping that by using female connectors in both of the fixed locations then no one could plug anything into them ? the lead to connect them would have male connections, wheras 'kettle type' leads are terminated with a female connection. the main downside i can see would be if someone connected the proposed connecting lead into a 'kettle lead' but i dont see why anyone would do that as it wouldnt allow them to connect it to anything else. though as with all things, some peoples attempts to reduce the gene pool cant go ignored.

ideally i am looking for something that is small enough to allow me to fit it permanently to the casing of the router, as though its always been there. i actually think the connectors i highlighted will be too big for the casing to make it look 'stock'
I don't know of any that would be 3 pin off the top of my head that are panel mounted, compact and are designed for DC sorry.

I have a bunch of these leads in my box. Hence my concern.

 
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I don't know of any that would be 3 pin off the top of my head that are panel mounted, compact and are designed for DC sorry.

I have a bunch of these leads in my box. Hence my concern.

if they do plug one of those leads in at either end of 'my plan', then it would only give them the same outlet as already exists, as they can only plug the male end in? they couldnt connect a female to female? my reasoning for using female connectors is that if the router is connected to the mains, then the connections out of the router that i am installing would be live at 12v and 48v as would those at the other end.

do they need to be for DC ? i assumed that so long as the connectors are above the minimum rating, then they would be ok?
 
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Not sure I understand? Don’t you need to supply 12v DC and 48 DC, therefore two of the connectors I linked, one for each would be perfect? Or am I missing something?

A nice little ‘project box’ for 48v brick and the 12v regulator would look quite neat! 👍🏻

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Not sure I understand? Don’t you need to supply 12v DC and 48 DC, therefore two of the connectors I linked, one for each would be perfect? Or am I missing something?

A nice little ‘project box’ for 48v brick and the 12v regulator would look quite neat! 👍🏻
two would work, but then connecting them might be confusing ..... a three pin version would work though

the 'box' would contain a 12v regulator and a 48v step up transformer. the router needs 12v AND 48V (plus gnd) - i intend hiding the 'box', which will be permanently connected via the 12v leisure battery, with just the connecting point being visible - at least thats the plan in the 'thinking stage' ..
 
if they do plug one of those leads in at either end of 'my plan', then it would only give them the same outlet as already exists, as they can only plug the male end in? they couldnt connect a female to female? my reasoning for using female connectors is that if the router is connected to the mains, then the connections out of the router that i am installing would be live at 12v and 48v as would those at the other end.

do they need to be for DC ? i assumed that so long as the connectors are above the minimum rating, then they would be ok?
You are confusing me now. If you are using the female like in your amazon link then plugged this lead in. You would be plugin in the lower left side. You could then plug the upper right side into the back of a monitor.
This would supply the monitor with your 2 DC supply rails to the port that is expecting 240AC.
1687180099771.png


1687180027680.png
 
You are confusing me now. If you are using the female like in your amazon link then plugged this lead in. You would be plugin in the lower left side. You could then plug the upper right side into the back of a monitor.
This would supply the monitor with your 2 DC supply rails to the port that is expecting 240AC.
View attachment 771347

View attachment 771342
You're confused .... What about me! :LOL: :LOL:

I wouldn't use a lead like that. I would make one up with two male ends
 
MisterB I am going to bow out now because I honestly don't understand what you are doing or why sorry :(

Good luck with it though (y)
 
You're confused .... What about me!

I wouldn't use a lead like that. I would make one up with two male ends
You would. But that lead is an industry standard one that a lot of people with computer monitors will have already.
That is why I was concerned.

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MisterB I am going to bow out now because I honestly don't understand what you are doing or why sorry :(

Good luck with it though (y)
Thanks for your help anyway, as I always say, it helps me focus on the issue and not just jump straight in. Best wishes

PS even if they plugged that lead in, they would still be left with a female end ..

But I am trying to source a three pin aviation type plug and socket which would be better, as they are smaller
 
PS even if they plugged that lead in, they would still be left with a female end ..
Yes, they would be left with the female end which would go nicely into the back of any monitor for example. Potentially shorting out or doing some other nasty to your system.
 
This is more along the right lines


IMG_20230619_141552.jpg
IMG_20230619_141557.jpg
 
Not sure I understand? Don’t you need to supply 12v DC and 48 DC, therefore two of the connectors I linked, one for each would be perfect? Or am I missing something?

A nice little ‘project box’ for 48v brick and the 12v regulator would look quite neat! 👍🏻
ok, test complete !!!!

BUT, i cant bloody check it properly until i resume service ----- HOWEVER

1st test

original starlink router with no modifications - set it up as per normal

after a few minutes Dishy orientated itself to the correct direction (i purposely pointed it in the wrong direction to start)

2nd test

mofidifed starlink router - set it up as per normal with 240v input, making sure that there was no connection via the modification

after a few minutes Dishy orientated itself to the correct direction (i purposely pointed it in the wrong direction to start)

3rd test

i used the modified cable via the 12v regulated supply and 48v step up transformer, making sure that the 240v was completely disconnected

after a few minutes Dishy orientated itself to the correct direction (i purposely pointed it in the wrong direction to start)

- so i am happy with the results, the 12v/48v modification (as shown on the everlanders you tube) powered Dishy as it would do under 240v, i can only assume that means that when i unpause the service then i will get full signal/data !


16876899430612591136557429403547.jpg

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ok, test complete !!!!

BUT, i cant bloody check it properly until i resume service ----- HOWEVER

1st test

original starlink router with no modifications - set it up as per normal

after a few minutes Dishy orientated itself to the correct direction (i purposely pointed it in the wrong direction to start)

2nd test

mofidifed starlink router - set it up as per normal with 240v input, making sure that there was no connection via the modification

after a few minutes Dishy orientated itself to the correct direction (i purposely pointed it in the wrong direction to start)

3rd test

i used the modified cable via the 12v regulated supply and 48v step up transformer, making sure that the 240v was completely disconnected

after a few minutes Dishy orientated itself to the correct direction (i purposely pointed it in the wrong direction to start)

- so i am happy with the results, the 12v/48v modification (as shown on the everlanders you tube) powered Dishy as it would do under 240v, i can only assume that means that when i unpause the service then i will get full signal/data !


View attachment 773780


Good work Sir! 👍🏻
 
Paul and Chrissy (PaulandChrissy) have been working hard over the last few weeks and have finished prototyping the Starlink router bracket and I have the first ‘production’ one.

It’s an absolutely fabulous piece of very clever design and printing… it can be mounted in any orientation, routes the cables in purpose designed channels, so will allow for exceptionally neat installs and holds the router very securely and will frankly survive a nuclear holocaust, let alone pot hole ridden British roads!

The attention to detail from a functional perspective is amazing, but the details from an aesthetics perspective, really make the bracket look OEM+… very very pleased. 🥰

I will post pictures tomorrow when I install it!
 
Starlink must love me.

When I changed my 2nd system over to my main account I accidentally transferred it back to the same account duh!

Anyway I asked for the £22.00 to be refunded or a credit of it paid.

Starlink gave us £75.00 a months charge instead.

I love Starlink.
 
Further update, I went to settings etc through the starlink app and found that I was able to check if it was connected via 12v and it showed all sorts of values, but more importantly it showed green lights instead of red !!
I also noticed that the app showed the router as being offline but the starlink being online, which doesn't bother me and I think the Everlanders reported the same issue, but as they were paying for the service (ours are paused) then they still received internet access even though the router showed as being offline.

I'm using a regulated power supply to provide 12v for testing purposes.

It's fluctuating between 2.7 Amps and 3.8 Amps without accessing the net. If it's using that amount of power then it's prob worth while turning off overnight or when it's not in use, unless of course it's sunny and you can run it off the sunshine (via solar of course)





16877093978651628647059828085939.jpg


16877092826827423655932746568279.jpg



In total to make the conversion I think it's been around £25 Inc postage for the 12v and 48v 'bits' from Aliexpress
16877115881864045323149287281795.jpg
 
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PaulandChrissy

Loving the starlink router bracket/stand on the classifieds!

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If of interest to anybody? France are doing the 300 Euro offer now as It's been withdrawn in the UK. I missed the boat in the UK so took the plunge in France today. (y)
I wonder if there's a big push to boost sales ahead of a public floatation? Shame they didn't offer it at €99 .....
 
I've been thinking of how to improve the 12v mod, in particular the way to connect up to the router without having a dangling cable.

My latest thoughts are to use an RJ45 connection, and use 4 of the wires in cat 5/6 for the 48v two for the 12v and two for the negative (ground), or will the 48v only need a couple of wires or even just one wire each? As the power consumption is only a few amps then I'm sure the cable size in the cat 5/6 would be ok, especially as it's possible to provide POE to the router via the same cable. I could then mount a female jack flush/neatly into the case itself? I just need to check out how POE actually carries the power as it's something I haven't yet looked at, though I am not actually using POE but just cables and connectors that should be able carry the load.

I will do a test of the wiring first, so that I can check for excess heat.

I also noticed yesterday, when running the router without the glass front on, that the two large heat syncs get quite hot. I am also considering whether to install a small computer fan into the casing to help dissipate the heat. As I already have 12v + and 12v - connections it's only a hole in the rear of the router casing I need to add.
I wonder if excessive heat in the router sometimes causes signal drop out as the view to the satellites is unobstructed?
 
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I've been thinking of how to improve the 12v mod, in particular the way to connect up to the router without having a dangling cable.

My latest thoughts are to use an RJ45 connection, and use 4 of the wires in cat 5/6 for the 48v two for the 12v and two for the negative (ground), or will the 48v only need a couple of wires or even just one wire each? As the power consumption is only a few amps then I'm sure the cable size in the cat 5/6 would be ok, especially as it's possible to provide POE to the router via the same cable. I could then mount a female jack flush/neatly into the case itself? I just need to check out how POE actually carries the power as it's something I haven't yet looked at.

I also noticed yesterday, when running the router without the glass front on, that the two large heat syncs get quite hot. I am also considering whether to install a small computer fan into the casing to help dissipate the heat. As I already have 12v + and 12v - connections it's only a hole in the rear of the router casing I need to add.
I wonder if excessive heat in the router sometimes causes signal drop out as the view to the satellites is unobstructed?

As I posted earlier on this, a couple of XT60 connectors would be my approach, cheap reliable and designed for the job! 👍✔️

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