Mercedes vario 814 self build bus to FLT palace

Not that im anywhere near that stage yet but im also wondering about my insulation ... I still think celotex board is the best idea for the roof and the floor but for the side walls im starting to think it might be a complete mare fitting it in and behind all the support bars etc etc ...im going to stick some bitchamin ( not sure its spelt right) squares on the panels for sound deadening but then also wondered if perhaps that recycled plastic wool type insulation might be better on the walls and cavities.

Whats folks thoughts?
Both are good, but if it were me I'd use celotex everywhere.

Our van has this, with closed cell spray foam in any joints, and I can honestly say I've not been in a van that stays cooler in the summer. Great for our dog (y)

I've used the recycled plastic on a van I built for someone else and it's pretty good, but doesn't want to be compressed and can be a pain to get it to hold in place.

Re sound deadening, it's worth adding as much as will fit around the cab floor and wheel arches if it fits. We did this on our vans last refit (took the cab floor out, sound deadened, built a ply base) and it made a huge difference when driving.
 
Not that im anywhere near that stage yet but im also wondering about my insulation ... I still think celotex board is the best idea for the roof and the floor but for the side walls im starting to think it might be a complete mare fitting it in and behind all the support bars etc etc ...im going to stick some bitchamin ( not sure its spelt right) squares on the panels for sound deadening but then also wondered if perhaps that recycled plastic wool type insulation might be better on the walls and cavities.

Whats folks thoughts?
What about quilt insulation


or another option is spray PU foam. Both are used in boat builds I believe.
 
Hi, just caught up with the progress you have made to date, looking good.
I probably missed it in the thread somewhere but what is actually holding up all that weight you are/have added to the back?
 
if you glue celotex type on to a panel theres no need for sound deadening on that panel as it never going to vibrate
Its belt and braces really as these vans are notoriously noisy and a roll of this stuff is cheap .

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Hi, just caught up with the progress you have made to date, looking good.
I probably missed it in the thread somewhere but what is actually holding up all that weight you are/have added to the back?
The van itself

It has steel rails running front to back that are 80x50 4mm walled box section the frame is suspended from that and welded in to the supports either side.
 
If you use recycled plastic insulation the. B and q Dail brand looks pretty cheap at £16 a roll.

Cheers James
 
Been there done that ...for the mot


Ballast units ?? I was told resistors ....ive ordered resistors
And they go ACROSS the feed wires not in line..
But to be honest that is a pretty old school way of dealing with the issue
I would just replace the indicator box with an LED compatible one
 
There's a retirement sale of a shops contents up my way that might have some bits and bobs that could be useful. I'll put a link up and if there is anything you fancy give me a shout. It was a right old school garage shop that had practically everything. I miss those kind of shops.

I've got my eye on the box of auto glym products :)

<Broken link removed>

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
"steel rails running front to back that are 80x50 4mm"
Fairly substantial beams and a suppose thinking about it all those passengers sitting at the back when it was a bus did not fall through onto the road.
 
And they go ACROSS the feed wires not in line..
But to be honest that is a pretty old school way of dealing with the issue
I would just replace the indicator box with an LED compatible one
Not sure what you mean with the wiring ...i thought they just went inline...

This is the ones ive ordered

 
Not sure what you mean with the wiring ...i thought they just went inline...

This is the ones ive ordered

Putting them inline will increase the resistance lowering the current drawn. You need to increase the current to simulate a bulb.
 
Putting them inline will increase the resistance lowering the current drawn. You need to increase the current to simulate a bulb.
So how do i wire them ?

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
I would have thought across the bulb between live and earth.
I assume you bought the correct ones for 24v as the resistance value would be different for 12v.
The ones I looked at on eBay were also 6 ohm, but at 24v would draw twice the current I.e. 4amps instead of 2, so they may be engineered a bit more substantially
 
Basically you have to 'kid' the system in to thinking the the bulb is 21w
If you are fitting LEDs front and back just wire ONE resistor on each side, and not all four
If you have 24v system the value of the resistors should be about 12 ohms.. ( 6 ohm ones are for 12v systems
 
The ones I looked at on eBay were also 6 ohm, but at 24v would draw twice the current I.e. 4amps instead of 2, so they may be engineered a bit more substantially
Sorry mate.. wrong way round.. they will draw HALF the current not twice as much !

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Ok im lost already ....but i think ive ordered the wrong ones as i forgot about fecking 24v so the ones ive ordered are 6ohm from what i can see .

Only led lights on the rear ....only really need 2 resistors but they came in a set of four.

Ill have to go look for 24v ones instead
 
The ones you have ordered will work but will probably get hotter than the 24v ones. However this may not necessarily be that noticeable. Worth trying them and see.
I think you will find running a 50 watt resistor at 96 watts it will go up in smoke. :LOL:
With the alternator charging it will be around 115 watts.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Last edited:
21w at 12v will draw about 1.75 amps.. 21w at 24v about .8 amps..
If you think I am wrong why are r's meant to ballast a 12v system 6 ohms, and for a 24v one 12 ohms.. :-)
 
You can get the whole sides spray foamed there’s a few firms that do it.
Yes id considered this ... i bought a sprinter years ago that was spray foam insulated but was always worried if i had to do any repairs to the van how hard complicated it might be.
 
Could you not just double up the 12 volt resistors ?

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 

Join us or log in to post a reply.

To join in you must be a member of MotorhomeFun

Join MotorhomeFun

Join us, it quick and easy!

Log in

Already a member? Log in here.

Latest journal entries

Back
Top