Lenny's Modding the new Mini Gin Palace 2

[Neilh]

This evening carpeted the floor and back wall of the garage & fitted a cargo rail on the top of back wall.

View attachment 927091

Hi Lenny, I've got a pair of Fiamma rails on there way to me, I intend to fix one to the top of the garage, it's a 143, so much the same as you have. It'll be used for holding chairs and table to the rear wall, with bungies, ie from the corner rail to head rail. My question, what to fix it with, the wall material is relatively thin, my thoughts were to use a few screws to keep the location and use Sikaflex or CT1 to bond it to the aluminuim, any advice gratefully received.

Neil

 

[Beltie]

Hi Lenny, I've got a pair of Fiamma rails on there way to me, I intend to fix one to the top of the garage, it's a 143, so much the same as you have. It'll be used for holding chairs and table to the rear wall, with bungies, ie from the corner rail to head rail. My question, what to fix it with, the wall material is relatively thin, my thoughts were to use a few screws to keep the location and use Sikaflex or CT1 to bond it to the aluminuim, any advice gratefully received.

Neil

I have used common or garden Rawlplugs in the past, and they have worked fine.

 

[Lenny HB]

I just used No.10 self tappers it comes with them but the ones they supply looked a bit long so I used shorter ones.
I anchor two e-bikes to it without a problem.

 

[CeeJay13]

Forgive me, but I am lost as to exactly where you are, but have you considered an Active USB Cable with a USB Powered Hub at the far end?

 

[Neilh]

I just used No.10 self tappers it comes with them but the ones they supply looked a bit long so I used shorter ones.
I anchor two e-bikes to it without a problem.

Thanks Lenny, e-bikes are on veloslide. So light duty only.

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[AdrianChen]

I might get the electrics finished on the van this year, with a bit of luck.
Finally made my panel for my Raspberry Pi, Fridge Fan Controller & S+ Timer.
A few more cables to get through the van then I can fit it.

View attachment 1024875

Comparing the physical to the electronic, I think I prefer the physical but then I prefer classic car dashboard to a modern screen.

But still no knuckles skinned, although I might have broken a nail.

And only two bits of cable to add. Seems to work, at least until I do the cables

 

[Lenny HB]

Forgive me, but I am lost as to exactly where you are, but have you considered an Active USB Cable with a USB Powered Hub at the far end?

See post#532.
I had thought about active USB but it's volt drop over the cable that was the problem rather than a data problem.

 

[Just smiffy]

Only getting a small one then.

Over 3 times more then what I have now….

 

[Northernraider]

For Fiddlesticks sake shut up about flecking fans.

Welcome to my world

 

[bigtwin]

Welcome to my world

How’s the fishing where you are?

Ian

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[Northernraider]

Regarding the fans as I think I understood what MichaelT was getting at .. if there's a chimney like vent at the top if a fan was fitted below that sucking out would it not pull cold air from outside in at the bottom vent and pull it out the roof vent?

I know that if I open the large skylight in my van and I open the vent master above my cooker and put the fan on extract it sucks air in through my big skylight which gives me really good airflow In the camper.

If not don't bite my head off I just think you're both maybe at crosswires.


All the other stuff with electrics you're doing went right over my head lol.

 

[bigtwin]

if there's a chimney like vent at the top if a fan was fitted below that sucking out would it not pull cold air from outside in at the bottom vent and pull it out the roof vent?

The air expelled out the top vent will be replaced by air pulled in through the vents. However, that air will take the path of least resistance and would most likely come from the top vent (is there still a top vent when there’s a roof exhaust?) rather than the bottom vent.

Even if it comes from the bottom vent the question is, how much of that air will actually flow over the radiating fins? Probably only about 50%?

The most effective cooling will occur if you place the fans directly below the radiating fins and blow air over them. Of course, optimal placement of the fan(s) may be impacted by practical realities.

Ian

 

[Lenny HB]

Can't you lot f***ing shut up I'm well aware how cooling fans work I only made the comment that this type of fan is more efficient suckling rather than blowing. Not ideal where they are or how they are mounted but it was the only option. Any air moving over cooling stack is better than none.

 

[bigtwin]

Can't you lot f***ing shut up

Your frustration is taking you dangerously close to breaking Rule 1.

All of the discussion that you’re taking issue with has ensued from your opinion on why your mounting location is ‘best’. Other opinions are allowed and have been aired here in a civil manner.

Rather than engage in the debate on the topic you choose only to re-iterate your original statement (while displaying increasing levels of irritation) rather than expanding on your rationale to assist others believe that your statements have a meaningful basis. Perhaps they don’t.

Ian

 

[Lenny HB]

Thats it I'm out of here if you lot can't be polite and can't resist trying to ruin a thread that is there to be informitave & give people encouragement to tackle jobs on their vans, I don't see the point of carrying on.

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[Northernraider]

The air expelled out the top vent will be replaced by air pulled in through the vents. However, that air will take the path of least resistance and would most likely come from the top vent (is there still a top vent when there’s a roof exhaust?) rather than the bottom vent.

Even if it comes from the bottom vent the question is, how much of that air will actually flow over the radiating fins? Probably only about 50%?

The most effective cooling will occur if you place the fans directly below the radiating fins and blow air over them. Of course, optimal placement of the fan(s) may be impacted by practical realities.

Ian

There's no top vent that's why he fiyter the fans in bottom vent

 

[Stoosal]

Thats it I'm out of here if you lot can't be polite and can't resist trying to ruin a thread that is there to be informitave & give people encouragement to tackle jobs on their vans, I don't see the point of carrying on.

I very much hope you do continue as I find your work very informative. Thank you.

 

[MichaelT]

There's no top vent that's why he fiyter the fans in bottom vent

There is a top vent but it goes out thru the roof.

 

[Minxy]

Can't you lot f***ing shut up I'm well aware how cooling fans work I only made the comment that this type of fan is more efficient suckling rather than blowing. Not ideal where they are or how they are mounted but it was the only option. Any air moving over cooling stack is better than none.

Thats it I'm out of here if you lot can't be polite and can't resist trying to ruin a thread that is there to be informitave & give people encouragement to tackle jobs on their vans, I don't see the point of carrying on.

Lenny, I don't know what the problem is but this is our if character for you, I know you are frustrated at the Pi but there's no reason to take it out on, and speak to us, that way.

I have found the info ref the fans interesting and no doubt so have others, surely you are not suggesting that we aren't allowed to have our own opinions or ask questions?

 

[AdrianChen]

Can't you lot f***ing shut up I'm well aware how cooling fans work I only made the comment that this type of fan is more efficient suckling rather than blowing. Not ideal where they are or how they are mounted but it was the only option. Any air moving over cooling stack is better than none.

Understood - Some fans are designed to operate better before rather than after a radiator for example, something about pressure, and exhaust rather than sucking blade design. I do think it helps the fridges if the flue is straight as well, mine seems to be OK up to the high 20's, but wonder if it would work as well in the 30's......

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[AdrianChen]

Thats it I'm out of here if you lot can't be polite and can't resist trying to ruin a thread that is there to be informitave & give people encouragement to tackle jobs on their vans, I don't see the point of carrying on.

Sorry to hear that - I learn a lot from your ideas and approach, and do take encouragement to have a go, or at least use the ideas and get someone to do the work!

Hope my ramblings on your thread haven't added to your frustration.

A while back I did a long thread on a couple of websites about building a new 50ft boat - from start to finish, idea was to show how XXXX went about the job, great because it was from a user rather than a supplier promoting his business, photos were not staged as other similar threads had been, and the guys doing the work were happy, so covered everything warts and all. Most questions whether online or private messages were genuine interest, often from potential purchasers, but there were a few contributors who appeared to want to use the threads as platforms to demonstrate their (superior) knowledge. In the end I cut the story short, and then deleted the content.

 

[CeeJay13]

See post#532.
I had thought about active USB but it's volt drop over the cable that was the problem rather than a data problem.

I had a 25m cable from the Pro-Signal range. It was connected from my Laptop to a Funcube Pro+ SDR Dongle and it worked very well with a Powered USB Hub at the far end. Don't know if you tried it with the powered hub at the Victron end?

 

[CeeJay13]

(Just noticed that is 10m, mine was definitely 25m (from 2014) - from my upstairs office, down the stairs and to the bottom of the back garden!)

 

[Rob Hammond]

Ooh seems to be a lot of hot air blowing around here

 

[MichaelT]

Ooh seems to be a lot of hot air blowing around here

Stop it you're just fanning the flames

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[Manic]

I agree with Lenny , it’s his thread and when asking to stop making comments it would be nice to accept what he asks.
If people what to keep debating start you own thread

 

[Driventemple]

Actually I enjoy the odd comment when someone is describing how THEY would cure a fault, or someone's job in progress.
It's at this point I realise that I am quite bright.

 

[RV-AL]

OK a few bits I did before the last trip.

Fitted a TMV to the shower feed so no more getting scalded or frozen just turn the tap on and water comes out at the perfect temperature.
View attachment 978767

If you are wondering why all the cable ties, they are holding foam pads in place to stop the hose clips rubbing on the pipes.

View attachment 978768
View attachment 978769

Why wasn’t your van delivered with a working hot water supply to the shower.

 

[Lenny HB]

Well I've got it all working and installed, once I got an adaptor and swapped the USB cables all was well.
The Orion XS shows up in devices & you can configure it but doesn't show on the local home screen but it does show on gui.v2 but you can only see that remotely as gui.v2 doesn't show on the local screen.

I was going to have a play with Node Red but some plonker didn't install Venus Large, I thought I had, trouble is I've got so many versions downloaded on my PC must have clicked on the wrong one, so that's a right pain to strip it all down to get at the SD card.
I have put a short USB extension lead in so may be able to do it via a USB stick.

Need to buy 3m of brown trunking, as I need about 7/8 inches for the cables in the back of the cupboard.
I fitted a Hella socket in the base and have my router plugged in at the moment.

The temperature controller that wasn't working, I got another one from Amazon that was the same, it was the instructions, they had crossed neg & pos. I had fitted the same one in Tam's van I checked that.

Had to get it all installed this week as I'm having an OP on my hand on Thursday, so that will stop play for a week or two.

 

[lorger]

You lost me at USB cables

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