What have you fixed on your motorhome this week?

Seems ok at the moment but if it give trouble will probably go your way with pump.
Hopefully the ones are better the older ones were a right pain as needed costly resetting as battery voltage changed.
I know someone else who fitted one to his Hymer he ended up changing it for a pump.
 
I have had a continuing struggle with the wardrobe door which has the hinges continually going loose and the keep plate for the catch doing ditto. Both lots are screwed into very thin material. Have just tried using a holt melt glue gun to inject some plastic in the holes hoping that the screws might hold this time. As I am off to North Devon for a couple of days I am hoping that it all stays together. I am reluctant to use nuts/bolts through the panel fro the hinges. The catch side is blindsided by having the shower unit on the other side so inaccessible.. The inter wall gap appears too small for any expansion type fixings. Suggestion (polite) would be welcome.
 
Problem with the aluminium plate idea is that it moves the hinges by the thickness of the plate towards the opposite edge which has little rooms as it is. Although the hinges are of the kitchen cupboard variety which have some adjustment on them I doubt the ability to get the adjustment for the door to close against the surface which extends beyond the door when shut. But worth some further thought especially for the catch plate. Not entirely sure that the plate will glue securely against the wooden surface.
 
I had to sort out the flush for the toilet, it was getting very sluggish last week when we were away.
The problem is mostly my fault. When I fitted a new pump a while ago I didn’t have a heat gun to shrink wrap the cables at the new pump. The cable joint was corroded as I thought.
When you buy a new pump it comes with a short length of wire to connect to the existing wires from the switch. Unfortunately this puts the joint under water when the tank is full.
All sorted now we are ready for our next trip as and when we are allowed.

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I have had a continuing struggle with the wardrobe door which has the hinges continually going loose and the keep plate for the catch doing ditto. Both lots are screwed into very thin material. Have just tried using a holt melt glue gun to inject some plastic in the holes hoping that the screws might hold this time. As I am off to North Devon for a couple of days I am hoping that it all stays together. I am reluctant to use nuts/bolts through the panel fro the hinges. The catch side is blindsided by having the shower unit on the other side so inaccessible.. The inter wall gap appears too small for any expansion type fixings. Suggestion (polite) would be welcome.
You could try drilling the holes out slightly larger and injecting epoxy resin (the type that comes with a double barrel self mixing nozzle) into the holes, then drill a new pilot hole in the cured resin, could be better than the original fixing ?

Perhaps something like this <Broken link removed>
 
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The old method would be fill the holes with match sticks cut offto length and screw away. A a more modern approach would be soak old holes with epoxy (slow cure 2 part) fill with match sticks and epoxy or a sawdust filled epoxy.

Edit you dont need telling which end to use do you?
 
Just replacing T joint on water pipe from fresh water tank to both sinks, 2 nylon joints have split so now trying brass. Not sure why they kept splitting as the pipes and joint area are very securely clipped to chassis, if this new joint splits I may need to re route the piping.
 
Just replacing T joint on water pipe from fresh water tank to both sinks, 2 nylon joints have split so now trying brass. Not sure why they kept splitting as the pipes and joint area are very securely clipped to chassis, if this new joint splits I may need to re route the piping.
Could it be that they are being held too securely so cannot flex to counter any chassis movement and thus splitting?
 
Could it be that they are being held too securely so cannot flex to counter any chassis movement and thus splitting?
Good point, I am hoping brass will last. I am a poet and I didn’t know it 😄

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Finally got around to sorting a storage solution for the TV, neoprene tape and some webbing strap seems to have sorted it 👍
 

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Finally got around to sorting a storage solution for the TV, neoprene tape and some webbing strap seems to have sorted it 👍
Good job there but I'd make a cover for the TV as the facia will rub a bit on the neoprene and mark it.
 
Good job there but I'd make a cover for the TV as the facia will rub a bit on the neoprene and mark it.
Good shout, I did make sure the foam rests on the frame rather than the screen assuming it would be ok but no harm in covering it too, I might still have the original cover with the box in the loft 👍

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Finally got round to fitting diesel heater under bench seat! Quite impressed with performance.
Also created a foam filled box for pulse pump to sit in and housed in unused cupboard under sink next to bench seat. Will also add a quick release fuel line so I can refill fuel tank outside and avoid spilling.
 
Not really done anything..... apart from wash the Motorhome down and take it for MOT.... 17 months since the last due to Covid extension but ....bonus of that is.... November is usually the month we don't head out generally so we can travel with no worries all season now(covid restrictions permitting).....and it got a nice new ticket with no issues .....my MOT tester is also a MoHo owner...
 
Replaced the Shurflo pump today after intermittent problems throughout the last trip - not drawing water from the tank although the pump was running. No suction from the inlet side whatsoever on testing. No obvious problems whatsoever with the diaphragms, so made do with taking bottles of water from the fresh tank emptying tap.

The new pump has fixed it - back to normal, full flow everywhere - except that the toilet flush suddenly decided not to work..... :unsure:

Traced to the 3A fuse located behind the cassette. Visually, it looked absolutely fine but putting a meter on it, there was no continuity across the blades, so don't take a visual check at face value. Sorted now🙂

I'll dismantle the old pump a little further tomorrow - if I can fix it it's nice to have a spare.

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A follow-up to my previous post. Stripped the old pump down yet again today, checked the pressure switch was working and a very close inspection of the diaphragm assembly showed it to be squeaky clean with no damage, nicks or grit in any of the parts. I attached a pipe on each side and tried drawing water from the kitchen sink. Zilch, nix, no suction detectable. Manually priming the pump from the inlet side didn't work either.

Given that the cost of a new diaphragm assembly isn't far short of a complete pump AFAICS and if I couldn't get it working it was going to the recycler, I took a chance and put a very short, tiny squirt of silicone lubricant on each of the three diaphragm rubbers before reassembling it.

Success!:dance2:

The pump instantly started drawing water and I let it cycle through for a few minutes. Not exactly sure why it worked as i can't get my head around how these pumps pull water in one side and push it out the other! All seems well now, so it will be tucked away as a travelling spare. Might be worth trying if you have a similar problem and run out of ideas(y)
 
Thanks to advice from Funsters - sorted out my MPPT Solar controller, after much looking and fiddling, turns out it was just an iffy connection in the fuse to the second battery, after buying a Vanbitz Battery Master too !!

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Not technically that "I've " fixed but had fixed. Long running saga about hab door not centrally locking because the wires emerging from the door had snapped. The solid insulation in the door prevented simply reconnecting the snapped wires by joining with new wire. Also a part of the lock had broken.
So had to buy an entire Hartal 2 point door lock for £195. I got off lightly (!) because Bailey want nearly £400 for the same bit.
Kiwi Leisure Solutions came out and fitted the new lock mechanism and then rewired the solenoid on the actuator and ran the wire under the door and fitted a bit of conduit.
There was one incredibly frustrating thing; the door would lock when the key was used in the driver's lock but wouldn't unlock. After many checks with multimeter at several points, there was insuffient voltage to move the actuator. 12v to lock, 1 volt to unlock. Then we tried locking it with the alarm fob and hey presto, all dooors lock and unlock with the alarm remote fob. The doors all lock with the key in the driver's door but it won't unlock the habitation door. But we can live with locking it with the alarm and even with just the key and opening the hab door separately.
 
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Just had to swap out my 2 month old Reich submersible pump. Replaced it with the spare Whale one. It was working fine when we finished our last trip out 2 weeks ago and drained everything down. When i refilled the tanks this evening and turned it on it was making the expected humming noise but wasn't pumping any water. Bit miffed to be honest as i thought it might be a better brand than Whale, and last longer than just a few months. Its not even as if it had been allowed to run dry.
 
Just writing my post on repairing my Hartal lock, made me as angry as I was when I discovered that you have to buy the whole lock assembly even though there was only a little piece of plastic that had snapped. Even though I paid £195 on eBay, the official cost of the lock is £408. I attach the catalogue page. A downright rip-off!
IMG_1142.PNG
 

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