What have you fixed on your motorhome this week?

Far end if pic is new solar
 

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Rear step electrics have been playing up for a while. Tried looking at recently but decided today to remove wired remote & large box with pcb in along with extension wire & just fit an dpdt electric window switch. Works a treat.
 
Weather was decent on Thursday so I finally got around to fitting the towbar electrics.
Spend most of the time trying to get 3 connector blocks on the loom through a 38mm hole into the battery box plus the instructions translated from German left a little to the imagination. :Eeek:
 
I got the two batteries ordered from County Batteries and did some 'weight lifting' by removing the solo battery that has done us all last year.
In fitting one of the negative terminals to the pair, I managed to snap one connector (not the post.) Doh! so, as a stop gap measure I fitted a 'Quick release' replacement.

I'm not a big fan of this type of terminal fitment so I'm going to change it over for a soldered bolt-on type when my local garage opens on Monday. (The prop. would give me a mouthful if I bought one anywhere else). His prices are VERY good.;)

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Sitting in van the other night watching TV ,.. Noticed outside light was on .. ?? . I replaced the 4 x bulbs to LED ages ago so good illumination. .
Anyways ...Did the usual with the swith (double standard rocker switch , one for outside light & the other a ceiling light just above the hab door.)... No difference & the light stayed on ...
interior light ok ...
So... I thought has to be a prob with the switch. ..
Removed , & as ya know a delicate procedure to check for that small pendulum bit of metal which makes the contacts ...is a pain ... All done but outside light stoll on ... ummmm
So. .. Disconnected the switch completely ie no power at all...
Guess what ... Light still on ... Spooky ....
I'm thinking there's a sneaky circuit causing the power to the light to stay powered ON ... mode ...
So ... on the ladder & removed the 2 x plastic trims to expose the bulbs/ wiring etc ... Worked put the Power In & disconnected & made safe ... Light went off ..of course .
So .. the switch appears to be ok ! The interior light is working ok too .. I've checked the 12v distribution board & all ok (a small red LED shows if prob with circuit on fuse for hab lights)..
looks as though there's a sneaky circuit which is at fault but I can't find it ...
I may replace the switch to a single operation for the interior light above hab door as I know that works & just fit a separate rocker switch for the outside light ....
I look forward to your responses re this mind numbing problem ... I'm confused .... cheers. ,.
 
We fulltime in our motorhome so it was a bit of a pain when the fridge packed up.

Its a Thetford N112 and, according to the manual, the error 13 showing meant the thermostat was faulty.

I bought a new one from Amazon and fitted it easily, took less than 2 minutes.

Thermostat is shown in the iffy photo below.

Paul

thermistor.jpg
 
Last week fitted the new fridge, had to phaff about a bit, the new is slightly smaller than the old (an Electrolux RM2200 no longer made)
Had the old one out in 15 mins. Found a couple of things that if we had used the old fridge on gas it could have been fatal, the top of the gas exhaust wasn't fitted, it was lying at the bottom of the cabinet, and the Gas pipe union was only hand tight. When you consider that the M/H had an hab check, before we bought it, by a local outfit and everything was "ticked" as AOK.
Anyway!
Took a day to reconfigure the Cabinet so the new would fit. All done and dusted now and working well.

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Changed all 4 sensor batteries in my TyrePal sensors.

Removed and checked the 2 leisure batteries were in good order after the freezing temperatures. Think the roll matting I use as insulation helps quite a lot:)
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We find getting in and out of the cab on our motorhome and bit of a pain. Climbing up to get in is not so bad as trying to get out which in normally done by jumping down or coming out backwards.
To get over this problem or at least to make it easier I have made and fitted a pair of running boards come steps fitted at a level with the bottom of the sill on both sides.

cab-step.jpg
 
After decades of finding a reasonable way of levelling van as didn't want to spend 000s..... On a site with statics & observed their frame work/ chassis are levelled by axel stands ...
They were too high so , as a trial , ordered heavy duty one only from Caravan Warehouse . Next day delivery & fitted / positioned today ...Took me @ 6 mins to raise front nearside ...
Base of the stand is 12x12 inches so good .... £22.oo. Going to order another tomorrow .... I've placed them on the chassis . Works a treat ...
 
Just fitted a new water inlet to the side of the van, old one was getting grotty and I'd lost the cap on a bumpy road at the weekend.
 
Reversing on to a spot on the beachside aire in Cadiz last Wednesday, I backed over the high kerb a tad too far and nudged the freshwater tank cover which projects downwards behind the rear wheels. First I knew of it was a stream of water running from underneath - the best part of 100l was escaping. A quick inspection found the waste pipe completely loose within the casing.

I couldn't do anything about it there so retreated across the bay to the Las Dunas site at El Puerto de santa Maria. Said hello to the pitch neighbours then spent the next two hours sorting it.

Removed the plastic tank housing, just four 13mm studs with c.50mm washers, to find that the drain spigot was still intact, fortunately, and it was just the convoluted waste pipe that had torn off. That was tidied up and later refitted, although it needed heating in a saucepan of boiling water to give it the flexibilty to stretch over the spigot. The shrinking and the jubilee clip will ensure that it won't fall off, that's for sure.

However, the tank is held in place by two lateral steel straps, the ends of which are held by 15mm studs protruding from the chassis/van floor (the studs for the outer casing are on the straps, below the tank). One of these straps had split across the chassis stud hole and had dropped away from its location.

I have been able to effect a temporary repair by using one of the 50mm washers to hold the broken end of the strap in place, tensioned by some heavy-duty cable ties. I'll double up the cable ties asap but it looks as it it will hold for now.

All good a week later!

Water tank.jpg

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Fitted the daytime running light I bought from @MH 55 FUN

drl's.jpg


and a set of proplates after the recent post on popping the the door lock.
I when for these one's as they cover further down than some I have seen and they also have a internally fitted channel section for extra protection.

proplate.jpg
 
After the month I have had I think I should be on the thread entitled What Have you NOT fixed on your motorhome this week?
 
CCC said:
Fitted the daytime running light I bought from @MH 55 FUN

View attachment 223408

and a set of proplates after the recent post on popping the the door lock.
I when for these one's as they cover further down than some I have seen and they also have a internally fitted channel section for extra protection.

View attachment 223409
Click to expand...

The door plates look good, have you a link to those please....(y)
 
Smith and Sharp said:
The door plates look good, have you a link to those please....(y)
Click to expand...

http://vanlockstore.co.uk/our-products/proplate.html

They seem to use generic images for the vehicle types so don't be put off by that.

I fitted them to both cab doors to make it look pretty but it's only really the door that has the key barrel (usually the drivers door) that needs the plate to stop the screwdriver entry trick.

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Tv packed up in Switzerland sound only, stripped it to find connection to screen had come disconnected, problem choise of two sockets, guessed and rebuilt works but thinks it’s a 26” not a 22” nevertheless working will redo it when we get home
 
Fitted a CAK tanks grey water tank under my Ducato camper. No more carrying a waste container, yay!

I had the van was on the drive, up on axle stands and was scooting about on a creeper, so not much clearance. I stripped out the old grey plumbing and removed a load of electrics and fresh water feeds from under the van to make room. I then I fitted the tank, reposition it about 5 times so it didn't interfere with the handbrake or anything else. Then patched the plumbing and electrics back in and neatly tying and clipping it to the van. It took all day. I fitted the supplied drain tap, but I'm not happy with it as it's got a tiny diameter... I think I'll clog it with porridge pretty quickly.

Next day I was in agony. Particularly around my neck and shoulders.

The CAK tank itself looks like it's a pretty good item. It looks robust. They welded the inlets and outlets to the positions I requested. The issue I have is their communications were pretty poor, the attachment kit was cheap (the mild steel strap will rust and there probably ought to be lock-nuts and washers provided) and there's no instructions, recommendations or guidance. Good product let down by poor service.
 
Shakedown run with new (to me) van. I'd already reduced the table size ( @Minxy Girl ) but removed it complete with pedestal on site. Much better. Turned up pump pressure to stop pulsing on a fully open tap. Alde heating had been left with pump running full time (=no hot water) after fluid change prior to collecting the van. A phone call to Alde sorted it.
 
CCC said:
http://vanlockstore.co.uk/our-products/proplate.html

They seem to use generic images for the vehicle types so don't be put off by that.

I fitted them to both cab doors to make it look pretty but it's only really the door that has the key barrel (usually the drivers door) that needs the plate to stop the screwdriver entry trick.
Click to expand...
The only guide to fitting the plates I can find is this one

It looks really difficult to take the Door innards apart in this way. Is this what you had to do?

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