What have you fixed on your motorhome this week?

Fixed the broken wire in the kitchen tap on my B660. Had to make a "spanner" for the tap base nut as I didn't have anything big enough.
Made it from a scrap piece of plywood - it was strong enough to re-tighten the nut to my satisfaction. I've affixed the wooden spanner behind the drawers under the sink using velcro. I hope I, or the next owner, don't need it, but it'll be in the right place if I do!
 
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yMade an extra bit of worktop for when parked up, rarely use the travel seats
 
Finished the shelves in the wardrobe.

Not wanting a second mortgage for a maching piece of plywood from Concorde I have made shelves out of lightweight ply trimmed in grey vinyl with aluminium edging

Daniel

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Now the engine behaving it self time to start on the inside
Started by fixing the curtain rail on vthe weeman bed a bit of Milly putty to fill the skreew hole's job done
Bill
 
Ahh bummer. .. but she believes you.. ???:) that it was unrepairable :D..
Good luck with fitting the new one... she won't fall for it a second time:LOL:
Andy
New one fitted last night, took a good couple of hours o_O

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Fitted my new Varta LFD 90 leisure batteries yesterday...

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The difficult bit was clearing away stuff to gain access under the dinette seat for one of them...

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Job done and mess now nearly back to normal

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JJ :cool:
 
Out with the flickering fluorescents and in with LED as I bring the lighting forward a decade...

I replaced mine above kitchen area, I also put 2 strips of 5050 LED in, longer than old tube but ended up taking one strip out as it was too bright.
 
Fitted two fridge vent fans and thermo switch, took me longer to decide where and how to fit it all than to actually the job!
Thanks to all who contributed to the various threads, just experimenting with temperature settings, all works fine.
All parts bought from China, less than £5!
 
Changed the gearbox oil. Bit of a sod to do as needed to strip out airfilter housing...

Made a difference subjectively. Appears to be quieter in 1st-4th gear. 5th still a bit noisy.

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Replaced one of the Diesel injectors yesterday. 2nd test today and it works a treat (y)
Will you have to have it reprogrammed now you have swopped injectors as I am fitting recon engine to my 2007 Relay 2.2 and have been told it will need reprogramming /pump learn as two new injectors will be fitted---its a minefield for someone new to it!
 
SMEV hob igniter switch a bit dodgy, £20+ for a replacement:X3: how much:LOL:

So removed switch had a look inside, all that was wrong with it was that the rocker part kept coming out at one side, it holds in by some little "pips" either side of the rocker so packed out the sides of the switch with some modified cocktail stick to tighten it up and "jobs a good un" £20+ towards my trip to Dusseldorf(y)

Martin
 
Will you have to have it reprogrammed now you have swopped injectors as I am fitting recon engine to my 2007 Relay 2.2 and have been told it will need reprogramming /pump learn as two new injectors will be fitted---its a minefield for someone new to it!
No, Just a straight forward swap on my van. However mine is the previous version to yours. A 2003 2.8JTD.

I was aiming to do a conversion in a newer van. However with all the issues people have with newer vans, I am sorely tempted to keep this one going..

Just wheel bearing and quite a bit of welding to do now.
 
When we bought the Hymer just over a year ago it had a special waste tank specially made so the spare wheel would nestle in the shape and sit right over the rear axle. Then which ever part of Hymer designed the woodwork for the heater and ducting made it so the spare could not fit where it should. Not only unnecessarily adding weight behind the axle but in a crash the wheel would no doubt smash through the cupboard and then impact the waste tank with a bang.
So took the day dismantling the woodwork and modifying it and the position of the ducting so the wheel now sits right where it should have.
What sort of idiots do Hymer employ?
Looks good and frees up a lot of space to move stuff closer to the rear axle.
 
When we bought the Hymer just over a year ago it had a special waste tank specially made so the spare wheel would nestle in the shape and sit right over the rear axle. Then which ever part of Hymer designed the woodwork for the heater and ducting made it so the spare could not fit where it should. Not only unnecessarily adding weight behind the axle but in a crash the wheel would no doubt smash through the cupboard and then impact the waste tank with a bang.
So took the day dismantling the woodwork and modifying it and the position of the ducting so the wheel now sits right where it should have.
What sort of idiots do Hymer employ?
Looks good and frees up a lot of space to move stuff closer to the rear axle.
What model hymer was that? Never heard of a waste tank that accommodates a spare wheel.
 
Lots of jobs this week, we had been having trouble with the Hymer Star edition hab door handle sometimes not quite releasing the catch. When I dismantled the door to investigate I could see no problem. I spotted in the Hymer Club Internationional website http://www.hymerclub.co.uk/hcitips.htm#locks that the push rod was too thin and was bending very slightly under the compression only a tiny bit but enough to cause a minor panick when the door won't open. Fixed a bit of made up steel "U" section round the rod with epoxy as the instructions there. Lock now works like silk. Thanks Hymer Club.
 
Re wired & repositioned the horn today.

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What model hymer was that? Never heard of a waste tank that accommodates a spare wheel.
B614 Star edition. This is after modifying the woodwork and heating pipe on left to allow the wheel to slide in. Before it sat about 18 inches out.
Steve
p.s. this is basically an extension of the double floor into the garage. Very good design ruined by subsequent rubbish design.
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More Jobs. The micro-switch on the kitchen tap, the wiring had broken inside the switch so it couldn't be repaired. the tight bend in the cable would obviously eventually cause a problem. Bad design again. I found the manufacturers of the switch which has moulded in wires. But they would not deal direct for a 50p switch. So replacement online was £8.50 plus £5 carriage, £13.50 for a 50p switch. Ok not a fortune in the scale of things but undoubtedly another would fail shortly then another etc. Also previously I had to install a push button to operate the pump for using the nature pure water filter which was not very convenient requiring three hands so not necessary now. So invested £23 on a wale pressure switch so just a simple standard switch to change if it fails which it is unlikely to do because they work for ever. Having done that I took the opportunity to fit a relay wired into the +D feed to isolate the pump when the engine was running. We once had something move in our last van while driving and turn a tap on which emptied the tank and flooded the van floor and you don't need a tap to work when moving.
Just realised that I need to put another micro-switch on the frost dump to save the pump burning out if the dump ever works in freezing conditions. But with 30deg temperature today I have a bit of time to do that.
Steve
 
Indicator flashing really quickly. Checked them and rear passenger side wasn't working.
Stripped it down, bulb ok. Further inspection and loads of corrosion on the connector. Cleaned this up and applied a little vaseline to prevent further corrosion.

All good :)
 
Replaced engine battery today as the old one wasn't holding its charge, but at ten years old I'm not complaining. The original was a Varta so replaced with same
 
Fixed the shelf in the side door... :) .... trust me ..my DIY skills are so bad that i have achieved the same as rebuilding my engine. :)

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Fixed the shelf in the side door... :) .... trust me ..my DIY skills are so bad that i have achieved the same as rebuilding my engine. :)
Well done joy nice one.bill
 
Just bought a fitted new locking strips for my Hymer windows, easy job and no more useless pieces of duct tape.
Not cheap at £135 for 3 windows but worth doing.
 
Fitted the 2 new batteries only to get the old one out you need to unbolt the drivers seat and runners off the seat box to get at it although a 110v fit's I suspect it was ment for a 75v battery there, This left another issue as under the passenger seat theres coolant hoses for the bower box in the habitation area, So I've had to do a bodge and fit the 2nd battery behind the seat and use straps to hold it in position, Fitted quick release clamps so the nd battery can be removed in 1-2mins
 
Got to fix water pump in the morning it sounds like a pipe has popped off not a biggy

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