Starlink ordered… I feel it’s the only sensible option now..

[MisterB]

No images showing for me...

Sorry if they're not in the correct sequence, but I'm sure you can work them out ....

 

[Gromett]

Is there any issue with just turning the power off at the socket at night and then back on in the morning.
I suspect not but just wanted to confirm in case I am missing something?

 

[MisterB]

Is there any issue with just turning the power off at the socket at night and then back on in the morning.
I suspect not but just wanted to confirm in case I am missing something?

No problem in doing that at all in my own experience..

 

[stewartwebr]

We turn ours off when not using it to save power. Can be off and on 3 times a day without issue and never leave it on at night. It is mounted above my head in the bedroom, have you heard the noise it makes?

 

[Deafender]

Another Starlink adopter here - I’m new to the whole MH experience but not the remote area internet challenges, having previously had satellite TV and Internet as my only options at home for some years. In my case Internet access capable of a lot of video calling and online working has been a big factor in planning to tour in the MH- literally, work will fund the recent purchase of the MH, and lengthy tours.

I had been reading this thread right though over several hours… while long, I’ve found it by far the best source of informed views from all sides and aspects of MH internet generally - anyone with queries on all options would do well to do the same…

I’m planning on working online/employer VPN from the MH for periods of time as well - so an absolute no-brainer for me, I’ve gone straight to Starlink for the MH. I took a chance on a used Gen 2 kit via the well known online auction site, and setting it up took under ten minutes (firmware upgrade took a while longer though)… I have premium broadband at home (premium is for work reasons) and yet Starlink is giving better upload speeds at least… very gratifying. I have to say testing streaming of movies simultaneously on both his n her iPads while sitting in the MH did have me smiling…

I will for sure replace the Starlink router and power source and (based on this thread) have purchased the bits I’ll need - I can’t yet answer whether I’ll want to modify the dish to flat mount… I’ll first see how I get on with the standard rig- I am fortunately able to open the roof light and stand the dish on the roof from the inside, we’re a compact MH with a bike rack taking up the whole back door area, so ladders I could do without having to accommodate.

The big question to self is whether or not I’ll need the backup of a 4/5G WiFi setup as well. I change my mind on that one quite often, and time touring will answer that question… Starlink is great but would be limited by obstructions, so I’ll encounter the issue soon enough, I am sure.

I’ll stay following this thread as well…

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[Carpmart]

Another Starlink adopter here - I’m new to the whole MH experience but not the remote area internet challenges, having previously had satellite TV and Internet as my only options at home for some years. In my case Internet access capable of a lot of video calling and online working has been a big factor in planning to tour in the MH- literally, work will fund the recent purchase of the MH, and lengthy tours.

I had been reading this thread right though over several hours… while long, I’ve found it by far the best source of informed views from all sides and aspects of MH internet generally - anyone with queries on all options would do well to do the same…

I’m planning on working online/employer VPN from the MH for periods of time as well - so an absolute no-brainer for me, I’ve gone straight to Starlink for the MH. I took a chance on a used Gen 2 kit via the well known online auction site, and setting it up took under ten minutes (firmware upgrade took a while longer though)… I have premium broadband at home (premium is for work reasons) and yet Starlink is giving better upload speeds at least… very gratifying. I have to say testing streaming of movies simultaneously on both his n her iPads while sitting in the MH did have me smiling…

I will for sure replace the Starlink router and power source and (based on this thread) have purchased the bits I’ll need - I can’t yet answer whether I’ll want to modify the dish to flat mount… I’ll first see how I get on with the standard rig- I am fortunately able to open the roof light and stand the dish on the roof from the inside, we’re a compact MH with a bike rack taking up the whole back door area, so ladders I could do without having to accommodate.

The big question to self is whether or not I’ll need the backup of a 4/5G WiFi setup as well. I change my mind on that one quite often, and time touring will answer that question… Starlink is great but would be limited by obstructions, so I’ll encounter the issue soon enough, I am sure.

I’ll stay following this thread as well…

Great news that you found this thread useful. All the contributors on this thread have learnt a lot over the last 18 months or so and posted the good and bad on here!

I’ve never parked up somewhere I couldn’t use Starlink in its usual mounting point on the roof in the last 18 months. That includes a nine month tour of solid use! I need clear sky as I’m powered exclusively by solar (and DC DC charger).

 

[Ridgeway]

Also another feedback here. We started using our V2 since Easter and have used it all over Europe. Lowest speeds have been 40-50mps average around 100mps and often up to 150mps. Ours is still floor mounted on 230v with original router but that will all change once the Everlanders flat mount case is here. Also have the parts to convert to 12v as well as a decent TP Link router as i would say that the weekest part of the original set up is the router itself, signal is very poor unless you’re really close to it.

So once the flat mount case is here I’ll get hacking… oh how i am looking forward to RJ45’s

 

[zac]

Also another feedback here. We started using our V2 since Easter and have used it all over Europe. Lowest speeds have been 40-50mps average around 100mps and often up to 150mps. Ours is still floor mounted on 230v with original router but that will all change once the Everlanders flat mount case is here. Also have the parts to convert to 12v as well as a decent TP Link router as i would say that the weekest part of the original set up is the router itself, signal is very poor unless you’re really close to it.

So once the flat mount case is here I’ll get hacking… oh how i am looking forward to RJ45’s

I think there is now an easier way of converting it, using the all in one option Here this way you only need to split the cable when or if taking it through from the roof and just join it up with a standard RJ45 joiner. All the other connectors use the standard ends, if not taking it through a roof then nothing needs to be cut as it just plugs in which will give you the ability to still mount it away from the MH if under any trees.

Not used this myself but many have

 

[MisterB]

If you're up for cutting and soldering, 12v conversion is a lot easier to understand and undertake if you watch you tube 'off grid power solutions'...

 

[Two on Tour]

Early days info from a UK use.

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[Vansflyer]

Swallowed hard and now a Dishy owner, many thanks to this thread. What is the feeling on leaving the dishy out at night on the ground? Roof mount would be great but not rushing into that till we have used it for a while to get to know how trees etc can affect the signal. Ta.

 

[Paul Wilkins]

Having had a V2 at home for six months with no issues, decided to purchase the Mini for using in the MH. Have fashioned a roof mount using a glass suction handle and an RV bracket. You can then pop it though the skylight when you need it. Sticks to the roof like **** to a blanket.

If you have a roof mount TV Ariel you can replace the Ariel component with the Starlink Mini and pass the cable(s) down through the pole. However, not sure if I trust travelling at 60mph with a 'Heath Robinson' affair on the roof.

 

[Paul Wilkins]

Having had a V2 at home for six months with no issues, decided to purchase the Mini for using in the MH. Have fashioned a roof mount using a glass suction handle and an RV bracket. You can then pop it though the skylight when you need it. Sticks to the roof like **** to a blanket.

View attachment 934673View attachment 934674

If you have a roof mount TV Ariel you can replace the Ariel component with the Starlink Mini and pass the cable(s) down through the pole. However, not sure if I trust travelling at 60mph with a 'Heath Robinson' affair on the roof.

...and here's one I made earlier.
I can't take full credit for the idea, I saw it done elsewhere and copied it.

 

[zac]

We turn ours off when not using it to save power. Can be off and on 3 times a day without issue and never leave it on at night. It is mounted above my head in the bedroom, have you heard the noise it makes?

Assuming this is the motorised version ie not cut down and motors removed?
Did you get that all in one 12v device connected up and working as that looks a lot easier than chopping cables?

 

[stewartwebr]

Assuming this is the motorised version ie not cut down and motors removed?
Did you get that all in one 12v device connected up and working as that looks a lot easier than chopping cables?

Long story, but we have given up on the StarMount 12Volt all in one mount with removable frame. We are now onto a Gen 3 with 12volt PoE and the StarMount is on its way back to the USA with hopefully a full refund to follow.

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[MisterB]

Finally got round to fixing everything in permanently. Soldered all the connections apart from anything that 'clips' into either the router or the Starlink.

All tested and working well. I will run a few power consumption tests over the next couple of days.

So far power consumption went up to 4.9A on initial boot up

and then dropped down to around 2.6A, on 'standby' ...that includes the router, the fans and starlink itself.... with no need for an inverter ... It fluctuated between 2.6 and 1.9 while I was watching it, but taking the highest figure will provide more realistic consumption data and expectation of power use.

I will run a few more tests over the next couple of days to get a more accurate consumption figure.

RogerIvy - for info

 

[MisterB]

Results of speed tests are pretty good. Mote than enough for 4K TV

And power usage

Power usage varied from 1.9 up to 2.6 when watching TV and browsing at the same time

Starlink is about 15m away from the TV and signal is very good.

Next test will be with small lithium battery, flexible solar panel and then fitted internally in the motorhome accessing the sky via a closed skylight. If that works then I can achieve starlink in motion without it being fixed permanently to the roof with just a single 12v connection to the dish

 

[Carpmart]

Results of speed tests are pretty good. Mote than enough for 4K TV

View attachment 935193

And power usage

View attachment 935194


Power usage varied from 1.9 up to 2.6 when watching TV and browsing at the same time


View attachment 935200

Starlink is about 15m away from the TV and signal is very good.

Next test will be with small lithium battery, flexible solar panel and then fitted internally in the motorhome accessing the sky via a closed skylight. If that works then I can achieve starlink in motion without it being fixed permanently to the roof with just a single 12v connection to the dish

Nice one!

Have you (will you) be fully sealing this revised Dishy up to protect from dust and moisture?

It will draw even less on a nominal 13v lithium!

 

[MisterB]

0
Have you (will you) be fully sealing this revised Dishy up to protect from dust and moisture?

It will draw even less on a nominal 13v lithium!

I intended sealing the rear backing plate BUT as I have the two fans fitted, it will not be waterproof or dustproof, so now I'm not so sure. To be honest I don't even know if the fans are required, in which case it could be made waterproof and dustproof. I will prob do another version without the fans to see if they're actually needed for cooling or not.

I could simulate a 13v supply and see what difference that makes. I have a Fogstar 304Ah and I'm sure it's over 13v nominal anyway.

 

[MisterB]

Test complete with a 20Ah lithium battery .... I can confirm that it works albeit with slower download speed, but I assume that's because the battery wasn't fully charged

Download speed was well over 100Mbs to the dish, but only around 40Mbs from the router to my phone (tested using an app/debugger for Starlink)

It only found 8 satellites, due to its positioning, but even that was enough to be able to deliver 60 Mbd to my phone at around 10m

Next test is via the fold solar up panel then external Anderson connector and then inside the motorhome

Although the 150w fold up solar panel should run it, I'm not so sure about enough power to initially power it up. I realise it's also dependant on enough sun, so whilst it should work, it isn't going to work 100% all the time - unless you're on a Moroccan trip ...


It definitely connects but i.thunk.it needs more power to boot. I will leave it for twenty minutes to see

I'm now convinced there isn't enough power for the initial start up process, checking for satellites etc. I'm sure it would work if my array was bigger as it does connect but doesn't 'see' the satellites !

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[MisterB]

Next test stage

I then moved the dish to a direction it would normally point to if on a motorised mount (from previous experience)

The results are pretty good

To me this shows that the dish doesn't always need to be pointing in the optimum direction. For those concerned about which way dishy would point if permanently fixed then it shows you can still get a decent signal if it's pointed in the opposite direction to optimal

It also shows that the way I have mounted the router internally appears to be affected by the proximity of something potentially blocking the signal (ie the windscreen in the first test)


And inside the motorhome

This is pointing in the same direction as the initial test, ie not in the normal optimal direction

I then changed how the dish was positioned in the can and tilted it up

And got this result

So I think it shows that obstructing the router from communicating with any connected devices has an effect, an tilting also seems to increase Mbs albeit pointing in a non optimum direction.

The windscreen seems to have little effect so I assume the skylights might be the same, but I need to find a way to secure it there before testing !!!


And now inside the motorhome pointing out of the unopened skylight

Not as good as I expected, perhaps the shading on the skylight is affecting the reception - perhaps it's masking the signal?
But it's still enough Mbs to watch movies/browse/text etc

I will try in a skylight with no shading ...

DAMN

Why did I put the cable connection on the side and not one end!!

It would fit perfectly if the connection was on the end

 

[BobJayne]

What sort of a signal do you think it would receive if it was fixed inside the motorhome flush to the roof? Maybe you could simulate it with gaffer tape!
At least it would be waterproof!

 

[MisterB]

What sort of a signal do you think it would receive if it was fixed inside the motorhome flush to the roof? Maybe you could simulate it with gaffer tape!
At least it would be waterproof!

Unfortunately it didn't boot from around a metre away from the ceiling..

However, as we have another skylight...

Where the dish fits perfectly.....

So my next project will be to create some sort of bracket to hold it up there when travelling and we will position it outside when on site/pitched up, possibly just stick it out of the skylight.

Two very simple uPVC trims bent with right angles slots into the frame perfectly. It allows the blinds to open and close (albeit the cable is a minor hindrance)

But it also allows the skylight to be opened fully if needed

So, do I now try to find a 12v feed from these lights or hope that Adria left a cable for a fan to be added ...

As it happens there is a 12v TV socket not too far away that I could piggy back onto and run the cables through the cupboards you can see on the right.

Yvette has asked 'why does one job always lead to five more?', I've tried to explain it's something to do with COVID and climate change, but she's not having any of it!


I would add that you can definitely hear the fans, so it would be ok for travelling but if parked up it would become annoying. But it would be nothing just to open the skylight and push it into the roof, then just connect the 12v cable to a supply and voila, a 12v starlink consuming around 2.6 amps after initial start up of around 4.6 amps, with built in router and more than 50gb more month and potentially more than 100Mbs, all powered up by one 12v cable, with the ability to be flat mounted on the roof when parked up, or positioned around the motorhome outside for the best signal, including tilting if necessary. it can also be used internally and also whilst driving - subject to signal etc. A bonus feature is that when going away from the motorhome on a picnic or somehere, if you have a small lithium battery, it can be taken with you and set up wherever you are.

Please note, i am NOT saying this is the best way to use/mod a starlink, im certainly not saying its the easiest/simplest way, but it works for me, it does what i was hoping it would. in terms of time to do all the mods, i reckon under half a day is overly generous - it took me a lot longer and few dead ends along the way plus hours of you tube, internet searching etc.

i think this is the first 12v gen 2 dishy, with built in router and fed by a single 12v cable - hopefully the real 'engineers/tecno's' will take this a step further

Total cost above the initial £99 purchase cost, was under £30 - not including the cable and Anderson connectors - though it cost me a bit more than that when buying bits that 'might' work, but proved unnecessary.. the rear 'casing' was the most expensive at @£16 !

 

[Vansflyer]

MisterB Been following this thread from the start, most informative and pushed me to get one and just taken delivery if a V2 I will be using with a 12V supply. Reading your latest post ref the current draw on start up, would it be worth putting a clamp meter on the 12V feed from a good and powerful 12V feed to see how many amps it pulls on start up and then work it out "backwards" what you need to give it? Looking at your stand alone battery it says 20A but I wonder what it's max draw can be? Surely it could supply the 4.6AH on start up and then the on going 2.6AH to run it and why would the speeds be lower with lower voltage or current, it works or it doesn't on the voltage supplied, down to 10.V something from memory? Please ignore if I am being a thick Brummie.

 

[MisterB]

MisterB Been following this thread from the start, most informative and pushed me to get one and just taken delivery if a V2 I will be using with a 12V supply. Reading your latest post ref the current draw on start up, would it be worth putting a clamp meter on the 12V feed from a good and powerful 12V feed to see how many amps it pulls on start up and then work it out "backwards" what you need to give it? Looking at your stand alone battery it says 20A but I wonder what it's max draw can be? Surely it could supply the 4.6AH on start up and then the on going 2.6AH to run it and why would the speeds be lower with lower voltage or current, it works or it doesn't on the voltage supplied, down to 10.V something from memory? Please ignore if I am being a thick Brummie.

I have previously (along with many before me) looked at the current draw on start up and its around 4.5A for a short while. It was only the folding solar panel that wouldnt supply enough 'amps', everything else is fine - the 20Ah battery wasn't charged up, I'm sure when it is then it will provide an extra opportunity to use it where you wouldn't normally expect it be used.

If you have any questions re doing your own version, happy to help where I can so you don't go down the same rabbit holes I did on the way !!

As for mine, although it's 'finished' I now want to add an on off switch so I'm not constantly plugging and unplugging just to power it on or off and I'm still tempted to upgrade the GPS by removing the existing chip. What's the worse that could happen ..

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[Vansflyer]

MisterB Many thanks for the explanation and offer of help. I am taking the easy option of a 12v- 48v conversion for the time being. My power switch should be delivered soon so dishy can be easily isolated to save power. "Beryl" will be on a constant 12v feed as the repeater option may be of use at times, we will see. What is wrong with current GPS chipset?

 

[RogerIvy]

MisterB Been following this thread from the start, most informative and pushed me to get one and just taken delivery if a V2 I will be using with a 12V supply. Reading your latest post ref the current draw on start up, would it be worth putting a clamp meter on the 12V feed from a good and powerful 12V feed to see how many amps it pulls on start up and then work it out "backwards" what you need to give it? Looking at your stand alone battery it says 20A but I wonder what it's max draw can be? Surely it could supply the 4.6AH on start up and then the on going 2.6AH to run it and why would the speeds be lower with lower voltage or current, it works or it doesn't on the voltage supplied, down to 10.V something from memory? Please ignore if I am being a thick Brummie.

Where did you get your V2 dish from?
No longer good deals as far as we can see.

 

[Vansflyer]

Where did you get your V2 dish from?
No longer good deals as far as we can see.

Pre owned off a mate on a German roam tariff, tipped me over to the dark side

 

[MisterB]

Pre owned off a mate on a German roam tariff, tipped me over to the dark side

you should watch the videos that RogerIvy has put onto youtube, they really break it all down ..... it wouldnt surprise me if Roger dismantled his Beryl router and installed into an all in one 'Cousin of Frank Starlinkenstein' as the Beryl router seems a lot more powerful and by looking at the size of the case its housed in, looks to have a smaller footprint than the original starlink router.

The current GPS chip is a very cheap and cheerful chip apparently, but a better GPS chip/setup will boot the starlink a lot quicker and provide a better signal from what i have read, especially when the signal is weak/poor. i don't actually think its that important for where/when i will be using it but having gone this far ......

it will have to wait a few weeks though, as the service plan ends on the 17th and as i havent really been using it, i only reinstated the service plan a couple of days ago to give me up until the 17th to play around with it


re the point that Roger makes availability of the V2, which seems the most receptive to mods, i think they will become more scarce as time goes on. i also think that Mr Musk and his team will be looking at more and more ways to fill the desires of users as opposed to letting them get on and modify their products and lose money .... lots of the earlier game stations were able to be modified, so the designers worked overtime to stop it happening, as im sure is happening now! If anyone has a V2 that they bought for £99 and are not using, it might be worth keeping an eye on the market to see if they start creeping up to crazy prices they were selling for !!

 

[Vansflyer]

Gave up waiting for the remote switch to arrive so patched it with a spare fuse holder and fitted the rest of it. Beryl seems to work well and when remote on 12-48v unit is turned "off" she uses nominal power so happy days.

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