Solar Panel Blown off Roof

Status
Not open for further replies.
Basildog said:
The loading for a person going onto the roof is only 75kg so only midgets and anorexic’s
Click to expand...

Not so with the RV where as well as the internal framing but it was also convex side to side which always gave good run off as well as weight bearing.
I guess Hymer will learn something from Thor ;)
 
Larrynwin said:
Not so with the RV where as well as the internal framing but it was also convex side to side which always gave good run off as well as weight bearing.
I guess Hymer will learn something from Thor ;)
Click to expand...
Same on our Winnebago, the Swift we had used to collect several gallons of water on the roof which was always fun when driving away after rain (y)
This HYMER has an additional grp sheet on the roof for hail stone protection but they haven’t rounded off the edges or fitted an edge so you slice your bloody fingers when cleaning or polishing (n)
 
Basildog said:
Same on our Winnebago, the Swift we had used to collect several gallons of water on the roof which was always fun when driving away after rain (y)
This HYMER has an additional grp sheet on the roof for hail stone protection but they haven’t rounded off the edges or fitted an edge so you slice your bloody fingers when cleaning or polishing (n)
Click to expand...

Same as my roof, also a pity they are dead flat water pools when perfectly level and when the rooflight mastic eventually cracks they leak.
 
fifthwheel said:
Ive been saying this for years on more than one forum, I didnt get much support either. john.
Click to expand...
I get what your saying, however on a bonded GRP/Aluminium roof once through the top couple of mm outer skin your into foam.
If the adhesive fails due to the forces excerted I can’t see small S/S screws saving the day, unless am missing something.(y)

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
I think screws would only be required if the wrong product is used or it's incorrectly applied. Normally for any structural silicones (generic term) you need a 1-2mm bead and not more, at least i hope so or the 3 tons of water in my dining room being held together by silicone may have something to say about it....

A 5-6mm bead is at risk of shearing much more than a 1-2mm bead as it will move more and on a roof that movement could be quite a bit...

I've started using BROKEN LINK as a new to me structural silicone, it has some excellent reviews and it's performing very well, it's also food safe (but that's a whole other thread...)
 
Larrynwin said:
Wow egg boxes, I bow to your incredible knowledge :D
Click to expand...
If your HYMER is like our new one it’ll be made of old egg boxes stuck together with toffee and chocolate
Get off your steps and stop licking the ceiling!:rolleyes:
 
Larrynwin said:
Are you saying that on for instance my Hymer a class the roof has no internal framing, I am surprised .
My last RV in avatar had aluminium box section framing in walls and roof which I secured my solar panels to in addition to adhesive.
Click to expand...
Hymer have used their Paul system for over 30 years now. Composite structure is very strong and does not need any further strengthening.
 
When I drill through for solar panel cables I found the roof construction of our Elddis is styrofoam sandwiched between 3mm ply on either side with an aluminium skin externally and a vinyl finish internally, so screwing down our panel mounts and satillite dish to our roof has something for the screws to bit into.
 
SIKAFLEX letting go on plastic :(:D2Well that's a big surprise .....
When I joined the forum above tens years ago I warned of Sikaflex letting go of some plastics after a year or so ....it's been well known by lots of self builders ;) myself included through experience (y) I got fed up of being poo pooed on here by so called experts that I simply stopped warning people that Sikaflex is shit at sticking some plastics....well here's a last warning for everyone :D It's SHIT :)
 
Larrynwin said:
Are you saying that on for instance my Hymer a class the roof has no internal framing, I am surprised .
My last RV in avatar had aluminium box section framing in walls and roof which I secured my solar panels to in addition to adhesive.
Click to expand...
Your Hymer may have roof reinforcement just to the rear of the cab where a "roll-bar" frame takes in the seatbelt and bed safety strap mountings. I'd be surprised if there was any more. Modern sandwich construction doesn't require framing and furniture adds rigidity anyway.
 
Ridgeway said:
I think screws would only be required if the wrong product is used or it's incorrectly applied. Normally for any structural silicones (generic term) you need a 1-2mm bead and not more, at least i hope so or the 3 tons of water in my dining room being held together by silicone may have something to say about it....

A 5-6mm bead is at risk of shearing much more than a 1-2mm bead as it will move more and on a roof that movement could be quite a bit...

I've started using BROKEN LINK as a new to me structural silicone, it has some excellent reviews and it's performing very well, it's also food safe (but that's a whole other thread...)
Click to expand...
According to the link it's a PU adhesive sealant. As is the appropriate Sikaflex.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
tonyidle said:
Your Hymer may have roof reinforcement just to the rear of the cab where a "roll-bar" frame takes in the seatbelt and bed safety strap mountings. I'd be surprised if there was any more. Modern sandwich construction doesn't require framing and furniture adds rigidity anyway.
Click to expand...
Seatbelts built into seats and the bed on ours latches in with a small pin into a plastic bracket on each side of the van
 
We have just done the N+B factory tour and there are no "roll bars" or frames in the roof/walls, the bed is supported on a plate and bracket stuck to the wall and the seat belts are all integrated into the seats and then supported back to the chassis.

Martin
 
Lenny HB said:
Seatbelts built into seats and the bed on ours latches in with a small pin into a plastic bracket on each side of the van
Click to expand...
My last Hymer was 2008 and appeared to have the arrangement I suggested. I was making the point that regardless of whether there's a support in that area there's still nothing of use in the roof to attach a solar panel.
 
Mine is a 2016 and the bed is supported by a strap to ceiling bracket , from that I would assume some framing support necessary at that point as in post #74 .
 
Carthago vans have a full length roof bar either side of the roof (U-Section which will retain a bolt head). I guess it's purpose is for attaching a couple of cross bars to support a topbox or something similar.

Might be useful for attaching solar panels to, using a couple of crossbars and mechanical fixings to the side bars. Only downside might be, increased wind resistance by having 2 full width lateral crossbars.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
The issue isn't so much the use of Sikaflex and it failing, the issue is Sikaflex not being used correctly and it failing. All modern bonding agents only work if used correctly, we all place our trust in modern composites and the glues being used properly everytime we fly.
 
Wagoneer said:
Carthago vans have a full length roof bar either side of the roof (U-Section which will retain a bolt head). I guess it's purpose is for attaching a couple of cross bars to support a topbox or something similar.

Might be useful for attaching solar panels to, using a couple of crossbars and mechanical fixings to the side bars. Only downside might be, increased wind resistance by having 2 full width lateral crossbars.
Click to expand...
If they were there I'd use them. If they stand above the roof dropper plates could be used to bring the cross pieces that secure the panel down to a sensible height.
 
tonyidle said:
If they were there I'd use them. If they stand above the roof dropper plates could be used to bring the cross pieces that secure the panel down to a sensible height.
Click to expand...

Thanks Tony, you've given me encouragement to give it more thought. I'm not that confident on my glueing skills :( so this would seem a good belt & braces alternative.

The longitudinal side bars are 20mm high x 30mm wide. So, attaching the panels to a cross bar would give me at least 20mm below the panel. Project for the winter :D
 
Well all I can say is I did exactly what it said on the MH Fun Tin:)
I mounted my 180watt solar panel with Sikaflex 512, I marked out the 6 ABS brackets brackets, rubbed down the PCV Roof lining & rear of brackets, cleaned off residue, placed bead of 512 all over mating edges of brackets and pushed down applying pressure evenly.
The panel was then secured to the brackets with SS self tapping pan head screws, to allow for removal if ever necessary.
So if it ever blows off....its your fault!;)
Just sayin
Les
 
TinaL said:
Well all I can say is I did exactly what it said on the MH Fun Tin:)
I mounted my 180watt solar panel with Sikaflex 512, I marked out the 6 ABS brackets brackets, rubbed down the PCV Roof lining & rear of brackets, cleaned off residue, placed bead of 512 all over mating edges of brackets and pushed down applying pressure evenly.
The panel was then secured to the brackets with SS self tapping pan head screws, to allow for removal if ever necessary.
So if it ever blows off....its your fault!;)
Just sayin
Les
Click to expand...
As long as you didn't use stainless steel self tappers it should be ok.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
tonyidle said:
My last Hymer was 2008 and appeared to have the arrangement I suggested. I was making the point that regardless of whether there's a support in that area there's still nothing of use in the roof to attach a solar panel.
Click to expand...
The bonded roof skin on most vans if not all is ample strong enough to add a screw or two to a bonded bracket, with adhesive joints it can help if you include a screw at the end to stop any “peel” as that is how most adhesive joint fail.

On ours I bonded L alloy brackets and then moulded another fibreglass bracket that is bonded over the top but not touching the alloy L bracket so s—t happened the panel would be caught, that’s just me “belt and bracers.

Martin
 
Last edited:
Two on Tour said:
Lenny is correct, galvanic corrosion, ally and stainless don't like each other.
Click to expand...
This thread is getting more confusing by the day (n)
If stainless steel screws shouldn'd be used near Ali then what can be used ?
Or just adhesive ?

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest journal entries

Back
Top