Northernraider
LIFE MEMBER
- Jul 30, 2017
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- N&B Flair 8000ib
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Its just a pity the manufacturers dont do any of that when they build them .Rust
Having been in the body repair business for over 40 years, rust was one thing you did not want to recur.
The first coat of paint is the most crucial. A 2 part etching primer was always used, sprayed or brushed, after a chemical wash of Jenolite or similar. An alternative would be a zinc rich paint such as by Bilt Hamber followed by chassis black paint for a heavy wear area. Red Oxide is not what it used to be ie Red Lead. A 1 gallon tin was an arm wrestler!
Bilt Hamber also do top quality rust proofing products (I have no connection, just a satisfied customer).
While on the rust theme, a small drill bit in a drill operated at 45 degrees can remove pitted rust. Might take a while but it works well.
Good luck with the rebuild.
Rob
I think the only way id eradicate all rust on this is to have it completely stripped and either sandblasted or acid dipped ...neither of which i can afford so just have to do what i can with it. All new metal i put in will be acid etched first ...thats what i used on the gutters too when i cleaned them up a bit ...but for all the framework under the floor etc im just going to do the best i can with it ....its all solid enough so a few coats of red oxide and a few coats of hammerite over the top with a final coat of shutz stone guard should see it good for a while anyway.
Id love to be in a position where i could have the body removed and dipped etc but cant do it.
That said mine is good where a lot of other ones are bad ....a guy i follow on Instagram just discovered his is completely rotten under the windscreen etc and is going to be ridiculously expensive to repair ... mine fortunately is perfect in that area.