Lenny's Modding the new Mini Gin Palace 2

Found the disc lock I had on the last van so I thought I might as well fit it.

IMG_20250207_113418.webp
 
Another bit of Carthago stupidity fixed.

The Carthago Logo light in the step well comes on with the ambient lighting, well it don't any more.

After a bit of re-wiring, it now comes on with the awning light.

View attachment 1005188

Great idea. Now you can tell if you’ve left the awning light on 👍
 
Lenny HB , how are you getting on with your modified grey pipe? Did you add any pipe supports other than the one at the pipe outflow?I have moved mine, but I'm yet to see if it helps ground clearance or if the pipe comes loose at the tank.
 
Lenny HB , how are you getting on with your modified grey pipe? Did you add any pipe supports other than the one at the pipe outflow?I have moved mine, but I'm yet to see if it helps ground clearance or if the pipe comes loose at the tank.
I used the original support in a convenient hole in the chassis, had to screw the thread down a bit. I have noticed that the pipe is just touching the tank enclosure, so will have to put a longer stud on it.
I wasn't happy with the way the pipe fits to the tank via a short length of flexible pipe so I put a couple of cable ties around it to the chassis as a safety measure.

I moved it to the front as I didn't want to rip it off when reversing over kerbs.
I have since noticed the tank outlet is towards the centre of the tank at the rear so regardless of the position of the pipe you won't get all the dregs out unless level or preferably slightly nose up.
 
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I used the original support in a convenient hole in the chassis, had to screw the thread down a bit. I have noticed that the pipe is just touching the tank enclosure, so will have to put a longer stud on it.
I wasn't happy with the way the pipe fits to the tank via a short length of flexible pipe so I put a couple of cable ties around it to the chassis as a safety measure.

I moved it to the front as I didn't want to rip it off when reversing over kerbs.
I have since noticed the tank outlet is towards the centre of the tank at the rear so regardless of the position of the pipe you won't get all the dregs out unless level or preferably slightly nose up.
Cheers. You are right, the connection to the flexi pipe is a bit rubbish. I'll try to fit some cable ties somewhere to take some weight off it.
Thanks again Lenny.
 
I finally got around to sorting out the waste valve, I spent a couple of weeks trying to get it to work mounting the motor inside the van but space was very tight and the valve was so stiff I couldn't get the motor to operate it reliably so have fitted one outside.

Wanted an extension on it for fitting my long hose, I couldn't find any 1½" BSP male to male pipe connectors so I made one.
IMG_20250222_142636[1].webp


With nearly a kilo of valve on the end of the pipe it was a bit wobbly, so I designed and made a bracket.
IMG_20250222_152601.webp


Fitted the switch up by the dash, beside where I moved the step & heated mirror switch to.
IMG_20250225_181936[1].webp
 
I finally got around to sorting out the waste valve, I spent a couple of weeks trying to get it to work mounting the motor inside the van but space was very tight and the valve was so stiff I couldn't get the motor to operate it reliably so have fitted one outside.

Wanted an extension on it for fitting my long hose, I couldn't find any 1½" BSP male to male pipe connectors so I made one.
View attachment 1018736

With nearly a kilo of valve on the end of the pipe it was a bit wobbly, so I designed and made a bracket.
View attachment 1018737

Fitted the switch up by the dash, beside where I moved the step & heated mirror switch to.
View attachment 1018738
Will you be making a limited run of these superbly designed and made bracket's? :whistle:

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Fitted the Maxxfan, I was going to use Stika 291i, contacted Stika they said 291i could cause stress cracking on the plastic and recommended 295UV, so sent the 291i back and bought some 295UV. (Might want to check yours gus-lopez )

First job remove the Heki, that took less than 10 min the easy part.

View attachment 978946View attachment 978947

Find the wires, they were in trunking in the roof, had to remove the panel above the fridge and push them through.
View attachment 978950

Next clean up the roof and fit the frame.
View attachment 978951View attachment 978952View attachment 978953

Then fit the fan.
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Connect the cables, then trim and fit the bezel.
View attachment 978955View attachment 978956

Trim the Heki blind mount and fit.
View attachment 978957View attachment 978958View attachment 978959

And finally clip the Heki blind in place.
View attachment 978960
Nice job! Quick question- what are the dimensions of the interior Maxxfan trim? I need to see if it will cover the holes from the current heki… Somehow I couldn’t find it listed anywhere. Thanks!
 
Lenny, the waste valve set up looks really good and on my list to do. How did you run the wiring, and any tips to wire it in ?
 
Nice job! Quick question- what are the dimensions of the interior Maxxfan trim? I need to see if it will cover the holes from the current heki… Somehow I couldn’t find it listed anywhere. Thanks!
No holes for the Heki they fit by the inner and outer frame clamping together.
If you fit the Heki frame & blind on the inside over the Maxxfan like I did it makes a much neater job.
 
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Lenny, the waste valve set up looks really good and on my list to do. How did you run the wiring, and any tips to wire it in ?
I took the power from the fusebox I fitted under the floor when fitting the wardrobe lights, ran a 4 core cable to the switch at the front of the van. Pos & Neg connected to fuse box (it has a neg bus bar), other 2 wires connected to a 3 core cable which I ran to the motor with neg connected to the neg bus.

I used an on-off-on switch, although when the motor reaches the end of its travel a micro switch turns off the power, by using a centre off switch the motor is isolated when not in use.

Just wasted half hour of my life doing a drawing for you.

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No holes for the Heki they fit by the inner and outer frame clamping together.
If you fit the Heki frame & blind on the inside over the Maxxfan like I did it makes a much neater job.
Do you actually need to install the inner part of Maxxfan at all, and just keep the heki interior part? I have Remis RemiTop Vista now.
My plan was to purchase a solid white MaxxFan and refrain from installing any shades. Instead, I intend to fit the Maxxfan’s interior part (referred to as the “Interior Garnish Ring”) to cover the holes left after removing the Remis’s interior blinds. Remis has eight holes, and I would need to cover approximately 430 x 430mm inside. I’m wondering if Maxxfan’s “garnish ring” will be sufficient to conceal these holes if I decide not to reuse the Remis part. I hope my explanation is clear enough.

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Do you actually need to install the inner part of Maxxfan at all, and just keep the heki interior part? I have Remis RemiTop Vista now.
My plan was to purchase a solid white MaxxFan and refrain from installing any shades. Instead, I intend to fit the Maxxfan’s interior part (referred to as the “Interior Garnish Ring”) to cover the holes left after removing the Remis’s interior blinds. Remis has eight holes, and I would need to cover approximately 430 x 430mm inside. I’m wondering if Maxxfan’s “garnish ring” will be sufficient to conceal these holes if I decide not to reuse the Remis part. I hope my explanation is clear enough.
White MaxxFan cover should block most of the light, and there would not be an issue of running the MaxxFan with blinds closed... It was also reported that there is less heat buildup with the white cover vs transparent.
 
Nice job! Quick question- what are the dimensions of the interior Maxxfan trim? I need to see if it will cover the holes from the current heki… Somehow I couldn’t find it listed anywhere. Thanks!
Just been out in the pouring rain to measure it for you, it's approx 445m sq, can't get an accurate measurement without taking the Heki blind off. (I hope you have plenty of parking & wine for guests at your pad in Spain :LOL: ).
Do you actually need to install the inner part of Maxxfan at all,
Yes it will look rough without it.
 
Just been out in the pouring rain to measure it for you, it's approx 445m sq, can't get an accurate measurement without taking the Heki blind off. (I hope you have plenty of parking & wine for guests at your pad in Spain :LOL: ).

Yes it will look rough without it.
I hope you mean 445 x 445mm, not 445 square meters…

Unlimited wine, but parking is very limited:-)

Well, sorry for the pouring rain, didn’t expect you to suffer that much to measure, that could of waited.

Thanks a lot!

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Hi Lenny,
Can you get the cables out without drilling holes or have you had to drill the floor.
I’m looking to fit a valve and camera to my waste pipe - keeping up with the jones and all that :LOL:
 
But mine runs off leisure battery as I see the load on the shunt when I turn it on?
I would be very interested if full air 4C can run off the leisure battery because it wacks the starter battery. I was thinking about disconnecting the pump and switching it for a big relay to run it off the leisure without upsetting anything. Any suggestions from anybody?
 
Don't know whether you'd be interested in one of these electric valves. They come with seven wires to enable connection to a switch with leds on the dash. Green for open, red for closed. They were £12 on Ali express, so I bought 2. I just removed it from the 20mm valve body fitted and it went straight onto my existing large valve. Which is still working fine 🤞

I'll fit the new one, once the wiring has been changed to accommodate the leds. Don't forget to get one with the manual override knob.
View attachment 994713
I agree with you on the waste camera. Works a treat.
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Sorry Al. We'll sort yours out soon.
Is that just an actuator for a valve or the whole valve, do you have a link? I want to fit one but need it to be 12v. I have the camera just need the valve and enthusiasm. Have had some difficult dumps in Spain this year with Judy on her knees trying to direct me, so now I have the enthusiasm.
 
That was the whole unit. It was from aliexpress a few years ago. Ican't find my old order. Make sure you get one with a large valve. You'll need 1¾ or 2". The last two numbers should be either 45 or 50. You could get by with 40. But it'll take longer to drain.

You can also get one like Lenny fitted with a red cover. Not sure whether his has a manual override though. I'm sure he'll let you know.
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Is that just an actuator for a valve or the whole valve, do you have a link? I want to fit one but need it to be 12v. I have the camera just need the valve and enthusiasm. Have had some difficult dumps in Spain this year with Judy on her knees trying to direct me, so now I have the enthusiasm.
Perhaps you should try some laxatives. :rofl:

I did get a Motor from Ali Express to play around with but the ones with a larger valve were just as cheap on Amazon.

Here is the one I finally used.
 
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Hi Lenny,
Can you get the cables out without drilling holes or have you had to drill the floor.
I’m looking to fit a valve and camera to my waste pipe - keeping up with the jones and all that :LOL:
For the cable to the valve there was convienant hole where an earth cable went through and a cut out in the top foor near enough to reach the cable.

Had to drill a hole in a support in the double floor to get the cable through to the cab. Got it through and up under the drivers seat took while, OK once I got a threading rod through.
 
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I would be very interested if full air 4C can run off the leisure battery because it wacks the starter battery. I was thinking about disconnecting the pump and switching it for a big relay to run it off the leisure without upsetting anything. Any suggestions from anybody?
I don't see any reason why not, I don't see the need for a big relay just reconnect the battery connections to the leisure battery. It's switched via an ignition feed you may need to disconnect that and use a small relay to switch that to the leisure battery via the ignition.
 
I don't see any reason why not, I don't see the need for a big relay just reconnect the battery connections to the leisure battery. It's switched via an ignition feed you may need to disconnect that and use a small relay to switch that to the leisure battery via the ignition.
I can see the connection to the battery but can’t find where they have picked up the ignition feed and obviously don’t want to short the two together. Will have to have a better search. I have some 80a vehicle relays kicking around though. It will be better weather when I get back to crawl arround under the van.

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