Jane & Rog’s retirement tour, Morocco 2023
- Thread starter Jane And Rog
- Start date
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Jane And Rog
LIFE MEMBER
Car park attendants, basically. They can be less official than that, but it’s still worth bunging them some dirhams as they do look after your vehicle while you’re away.
Mikey RV
LIFE MEMBER
Bit like South Africa. 
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Jane And Rog
LIFE MEMBER
We both slept well after the absinthe tea, and were later setting off for our hike than we’d hoped. I found this hike on the interwebs, and despite it being 2.5km to the start point and the same from the end, we decided to do it.
https://www.climb-tafraout.com/resources/Filestore/Blue Rocks.pdf
We walked through the town and out to the south along the R107 until just before the Berber village of Agard Oufad, where we turned off to the right onto a sandy track.
The first sight was “Napolean’s Hat.” No, I’ve no idea what he was doing here, and what precisely caused him to mislay his headwear. Perhaps he spotted Wellington eating some chutney with his cheese.
Ahem. Actually, of course this is a rock formation, and the similarity is astounding. Here are the rocks:
And here is Napolean’s hat:
Our way led on through the semi-desert. We passed what we thought, and Flynn smelt, to be lids to water tanks - we later found that they are now disused, as due to climate change, Tafraoute is much drier than it used to be.
Our destination was the “Rochers Peints” or Painted Rocks, which were made in 1984 by Belgian artist Jean Verame and a team of Moroccan firemen, who fire-hosed tons of paint over a large area of rocks. We’d been slightly unsure about even visiting them, until I found the hike which passed them, but in the end they were an impressive sight, and fun to clamber around, searching for the best photo.
As we walked on, we saw, and worse, heard, more and more people, so we decided it was time to turn back. Even so, we probably lingered too long, as it was almost midday before we did so, and took the valley towards Tazka, a Berber village just south-west of our campsite. This was the only slightly difficult part of the hike, as we descended a rocky footpath to the village.
Throughout, Flynn got the dog’s share of the water, and wasn’t even that thirsty back at base, but Rog and I both drained a 750ml flask each!
With hindsight, I’d recommend starting as soon as it’s light. Although the air temperature isn’t that high in January, the sun beats down and there is little shade. Also, you’ll have more chance of having the place to yourself. In total, the walk was just over 15km.
Here is the Relive video: https://www.relive.cc/view/vMv8BKR8AN6
In the evening we dined at the Overlook Hotel, with sand replacing snow. We’d decided to make the most of having restaurants in walking distance from our site, and eat out instead of cooking. And I think we both fancied a change from the ubiquitous tagines for dinner. So we walked up to the Hôtel Les Amandiers, a grand place overlooking the town. But when we peered through the glass of the main door, it was dark inside and there was no-one to be seen. Hang on, there was someone, lingering darkly by the reception desk, and spotting us, he called to us to come in. It was 45 minutes until dinner could be served, so we bought a drink at the bar and it was served by Jack Nicholson in the vast and gloomy lounge. We were the only people there apart from three dreadlocked hippies, who sank their beers and left before the sandstorm came.
The views of the post sunset town were worth it though.
Eventually it was 7:30 and dinner could be served. The dining room could also accommodate around 200 people, but actually accommodated just us. It too was gloomier than my broom cupboard, until, a good five minutes after we sat down, someone decided to hang the expense and switch the main lights on.
The menu was presented. Yes, tagines again! Although there was couscous, for the first time - apparently it’s usually a lunchtime dish.
The pleasant surprise was that the meal wasn’t at all expensive - 70 dirhams for Rog’s kofta and 65 for my couscous with chicken and mounds of vegetables. (Under £6 each.) The local red wine was good too.
https://www.climb-tafraout.com/resources/Filestore/Blue Rocks.pdf
We walked through the town and out to the south along the R107 until just before the Berber village of Agard Oufad, where we turned off to the right onto a sandy track.
The first sight was “Napolean’s Hat.” No, I’ve no idea what he was doing here, and what precisely caused him to mislay his headwear. Perhaps he spotted Wellington eating some chutney with his cheese.
Ahem. Actually, of course this is a rock formation, and the similarity is astounding. Here are the rocks:
And here is Napolean’s hat:
Our way led on through the semi-desert. We passed what we thought, and Flynn smelt, to be lids to water tanks - we later found that they are now disused, as due to climate change, Tafraoute is much drier than it used to be.
Our destination was the “Rochers Peints” or Painted Rocks, which were made in 1984 by Belgian artist Jean Verame and a team of Moroccan firemen, who fire-hosed tons of paint over a large area of rocks. We’d been slightly unsure about even visiting them, until I found the hike which passed them, but in the end they were an impressive sight, and fun to clamber around, searching for the best photo.
As we walked on, we saw, and worse, heard, more and more people, so we decided it was time to turn back. Even so, we probably lingered too long, as it was almost midday before we did so, and took the valley towards Tazka, a Berber village just south-west of our campsite. This was the only slightly difficult part of the hike, as we descended a rocky footpath to the village.
Throughout, Flynn got the dog’s share of the water, and wasn’t even that thirsty back at base, but Rog and I both drained a 750ml flask each!
With hindsight, I’d recommend starting as soon as it’s light. Although the air temperature isn’t that high in January, the sun beats down and there is little shade. Also, you’ll have more chance of having the place to yourself. In total, the walk was just over 15km.
Here is the Relive video: https://www.relive.cc/view/vMv8BKR8AN6
In the evening we dined at the Overlook Hotel, with sand replacing snow. We’d decided to make the most of having restaurants in walking distance from our site, and eat out instead of cooking. And I think we both fancied a change from the ubiquitous tagines for dinner. So we walked up to the Hôtel Les Amandiers, a grand place overlooking the town. But when we peered through the glass of the main door, it was dark inside and there was no-one to be seen. Hang on, there was someone, lingering darkly by the reception desk, and spotting us, he called to us to come in. It was 45 minutes until dinner could be served, so we bought a drink at the bar and it was served by Jack Nicholson in the vast and gloomy lounge. We were the only people there apart from three dreadlocked hippies, who sank their beers and left before the sandstorm came.
The views of the post sunset town were worth it though.
Eventually it was 7:30 and dinner could be served. The dining room could also accommodate around 200 people, but actually accommodated just us. It too was gloomier than my broom cupboard, until, a good five minutes after we sat down, someone decided to hang the expense and switch the main lights on.
The menu was presented. Yes, tagines again! Although there was couscous, for the first time - apparently it’s usually a lunchtime dish.
The pleasant surprise was that the meal wasn’t at all expensive - 70 dirhams for Rog’s kofta and 65 for my couscous with chicken and mounds of vegetables. (Under £6 each.) The local red wine was good too.
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Mikey RV
LIFE MEMBER
Loving this thread and the pics are great. Keep up the good work.
OP
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Jane And Rog
LIFE MEMBER
Realised I missed a Flynn pic or two for the dog lovers…
Water break!
Tired dog!
Tired dog!
- May 5, 2014
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Ah right thank you
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Jane And Rog
LIFE MEMBER
The day started badly and got worse. First we decided to move to the “outside the compound”part of the campsite - that way we’d get the amazing mountain views but could still access the hot showers. We packed our stuff back into Denby, Rog drove off, and an enormous tree stump leapt out of nowhere to its death* under the right hand side of the vehicle. Denby’s right front panel was crumpled and cracked, and the black plastic underpart was dangling dangerously low.
Of course the campsite owner knew someone, and someone came round almost instantly to quote. The initial figure was 2,000 dirhams. Luckily someone was French-speaking, so I asked him what it would cost to include the front centre and left panels too - both with a few dings and scratches - and the left mirror, which was cracked a year or so ago, and has a gaping hole. (The advantage being also that the three front panels will match, and it won’t show too badly if they don’t match the sides, being at a 90 degree angle.) 4,000 was the answer. With a quick exchange of views, I got it down to 3,000 (£244) for the lot, which I thought wasn’t bad at all.
We left the guys starting the work (can you even imagine that being possible in the UK, within an hour of the accident?) and went into town to get the money to pay for the repairs, and some lunch. We liked the look of one café, and when the owner ushered us in, asked about Flynn, obviously expecting the answer “no”. Quite the opposite, and we chose a corner table, where he flopped gratefully on the cool marble floor. These Muslim countries, so unfriendly to dogs.
Then things got worse. As we were sitting waiting for our liver paninis, I checked my mail and there was one from my sister in law saying my poor father had been admitted to hospital again. (He suffers from frequent UTIs.) My brother will be visiting tomorrow if Dad has been assigned a ward. Fingers crossed it all goes well and the usual dose of industrial strength antibiotics will do its work.
We visited the van, taking the guys some water.
Work was going well, so to leave them to it, we walked back to Tazka to visit the traditional Berber house there.
We were stunned to find that Flynn was allowed in! Morocco is proving to be more dog friendly than any European country!
The curator of the museum, Mahfoud, is the son of the family, and remembers living there with his parents. He has renovated the house, returning it to how it was in the fifteenth century. One of the more interesting things to me was how well the house was designed for recycling. For example, goats and donkeys would live in a large room on the ground floor. The kitchen was directly above them, so that food waste could just be dropped into a hole in the floor to be eaten by the animals. Flynn has told me he’d like to sleep below our “Sunday roast hole” please.
Similarly, grey water from the bathroom / wash room ran outside to water the prickly pears below. Mahfoud told us that the last good year for rains was 2008. Then, the valley would be green in January, with people growing wheat - the house had its own mill for processing the grain. Now there is so little rain that even the prickly pears are dying - we’ve seen their grey husks everywhere.
Another visitor arrived as we were on the roof terrace, so we said our goodbyes and made our way back to Denby, where work continued.
At the end of the day, we made a part payment of half the amount. Today at 10, Denby is off to the paint shop in town.
Last thing, an email from my sister-in-law. Dad is on a ward and has an IV giving fluids and antibiotics. Fingers crossed things get better from here.
Of course the campsite owner knew someone, and someone came round almost instantly to quote. The initial figure was 2,000 dirhams. Luckily someone was French-speaking, so I asked him what it would cost to include the front centre and left panels too - both with a few dings and scratches - and the left mirror, which was cracked a year or so ago, and has a gaping hole. (The advantage being also that the three front panels will match, and it won’t show too badly if they don’t match the sides, being at a 90 degree angle.) 4,000 was the answer. With a quick exchange of views, I got it down to 3,000 (£244) for the lot, which I thought wasn’t bad at all.
We left the guys starting the work (can you even imagine that being possible in the UK, within an hour of the accident?) and went into town to get the money to pay for the repairs, and some lunch. We liked the look of one café, and when the owner ushered us in, asked about Flynn, obviously expecting the answer “no”. Quite the opposite, and we chose a corner table, where he flopped gratefully on the cool marble floor. These Muslim countries, so unfriendly to dogs.
Then things got worse. As we were sitting waiting for our liver paninis, I checked my mail and there was one from my sister in law saying my poor father had been admitted to hospital again. (He suffers from frequent UTIs.) My brother will be visiting tomorrow if Dad has been assigned a ward. Fingers crossed it all goes well and the usual dose of industrial strength antibiotics will do its work.
We visited the van, taking the guys some water.
Work was going well, so to leave them to it, we walked back to Tazka to visit the traditional Berber house there.
We were stunned to find that Flynn was allowed in! Morocco is proving to be more dog friendly than any European country!
The curator of the museum, Mahfoud, is the son of the family, and remembers living there with his parents. He has renovated the house, returning it to how it was in the fifteenth century. One of the more interesting things to me was how well the house was designed for recycling. For example, goats and donkeys would live in a large room on the ground floor. The kitchen was directly above them, so that food waste could just be dropped into a hole in the floor to be eaten by the animals. Flynn has told me he’d like to sleep below our “Sunday roast hole” please.
Similarly, grey water from the bathroom / wash room ran outside to water the prickly pears below. Mahfoud told us that the last good year for rains was 2008. Then, the valley would be green in January, with people growing wheat - the house had its own mill for processing the grain. Now there is so little rain that even the prickly pears are dying - we’ve seen their grey husks everywhere.
Another visitor arrived as we were on the roof terrace, so we said our goodbyes and made our way back to Denby, where work continued.
At the end of the day, we made a part payment of half the amount. Today at 10, Denby is off to the paint shop in town.
Last thing, an email from my sister-in-law. Dad is on a ward and has an IV giving fluids and antibiotics. Fingers crossed things get better from here.
scousebird
LIFE MEMBER
I hope your Dad feels better soon.
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Grianan
LIFE MEMBER
What a day! Sorry to hear about your dad, elderly parents are quite a worry! Whilst van troubles are a blow can’t quite believe the speed and cost!! Lucky it happened in Morocco rather than the uk. Let’s hope today goes smoothly …
Mikey RV
LIFE MEMBER
As they say things can only get better.
At least your dad is in a good place and being looked after.
Can you imaging the price of that repair on the camper back here in the U.K.
At least your dad is in a good place and being looked after.
Can you imaging the price of that repair on the camper back here in the U.K.
OP
OP
Jane And Rog
LIFE MEMBER
I know!As they say things can only get better.
At least your dad is in a good place and being looked after.
Can you imaging the price of that repair on the camper back here in the U.K.
A lot of people seem to be getting resprays done here because it’s so reasonable. Also why I thought it would be a good idea to get the other panels done too.
TOAD on Tour
Free Member
Bloody hell, my wife’s car could do with a few touch ups…..I may have to call them for a quote!
Hope your dad makes a speedy recovery
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Hope your dad GWS 
I’m also loving this thread and your way of writing. I’ve just read it through from the very start .
Had 3 bad holidays as a child with my parents. (Why we went back after the first time, god knows, probably cheaper than Spain
) They were in the late 70’s early 80’s and it Completely put me off the people and ever going again. Wild horses etc….
I wouldn’t even want to go to a posh hotel complex. Let alone camp in our van, in the middle of nowhere like cowboys in a camp circle like lots seem to do.
I started reading this, thinking I’d stop once you got over there. But ive carried on and I’m really enjoying it , vicariously, through you.
Who knows once retired ……
I’m also loving this thread and your way of writing. I’ve just read it through from the very start .
Had 3 bad holidays as a child with my parents. (Why we went back after the first time, god knows, probably cheaper than Spain
) They were in the late 70’s early 80’s and it Completely put me off the people and ever going again. Wild horses etc….I wouldn’t even want to go to a posh hotel complex. Let alone camp in our van, in the middle of nowhere like cowboys in a camp circle
like lots seem to do. I started reading this, thinking I’d stop once you got over there. But ive carried on and I’m really enjoying it , vicariously, through you.
Who knows once retired ……
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makems
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We had bodywork damage on our Rapido A class repaired at Taghazoutte on our first visit. Finish was perfect.
there are 2 or 3 bodyshops in Tafraoute - one Funster had his van totally resprayed (can’t remember who, sorry). It’s a good place to get stuff done because it is so popular with mohos that the workshops are used to them
there are 2 or 3 bodyshops in Tafraoute - one Funster had his van totally resprayed (can’t remember who, sorry). It’s a good place to get stuff done because it is so popular with mohos that the workshops are used to them
I’m looking forward to seeing the finished repairs, it may be cheeper to drive to Morocco to have repairs done in future….
TerryL
LIFE MEMBER
Know Les Trois Palmiers well - but we always stayed on the wild-camping area adjacent for just a few dirhams a night - not that we're skinflints but the locals brought their service round, water, bread even a laundry service. A young lad earned "a small fortune" from us just for taking our gas bottle to be exchanged The only drawback was emptying the cassette - we saw several "solutions" over the years we stayed there until eventually the town installed a bourne a few hundred yards away. We had heard that the town council had stopped vans staying up there and everybody had to use campsites, although there are (were?) very few.
Camel tagine is a bit of a rarity as the animals are too valuable to eat - unless they're of no further use as transport............
You're in the ideal place for van repairs, seen lots from small dings to full resprays, but when you see what the general populace has to do to maintain their own vehicles you can see why they've developed the expertise. But the prices seem to have risen accordingly - that was a DH1500 job a few years ago, but they're still Arabs so if the demand is there ..........
Camel tagine is a bit of a rarity as the animals are too valuable to eat - unless they're of no further use as transport............
You're in the ideal place for van repairs, seen lots from small dings to full resprays, but when you see what the general populace has to do to maintain their own vehicles you can see why they've developed the expertise. But the prices seem to have risen accordingly - that was a DH1500 job a few years ago, but they're still Arabs so if the demand is there ..........
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So sorry to hear about you Dad's medical problems. It is difficult when so far away too but trust in the medical team to give him the very best of care. The van repairs look superb value for money. We loved visiting Morocco a few years ago and would love to do a trip there in the future.
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Sorry about the van damage and your Dad’s illlness. Hopefully both will be good as new shortly.
I‘m trying the get my head around the thought of ‘liver paninis’
.
I‘m trying the get my head around the thought of ‘liver paninis’
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Jane And Rog
LIFE MEMBER
We did it because everything has to be tried, but they were delicious. Served with cheese and some other white sauce (toum?) - amazing.Sorry about the van damage and your Dad’s illlness. Hopefully both will be good as new shortly.
I‘m trying the get my head around the thought of ‘liver paninis’
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Well it does look nice. I never in a million years would have thought of adding cheese & white sauce to liver in a panini. That's the wonder & interest in travelling to different countries
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Jane And Rog
LIFE MEMBER
It was cloudy when we woke today! Rather than cursing it, I was actually hoping for rain, after all these stories of drought.
At 10am, a paint shop chap called for us, and we followed him on his motorbike back to the workshop.
We were surprised to find we were just one of many vans waiting, some getting a total respray.
We discovered the name of the business - Hassan Elmzare, at lamentably.lacework.impaled.
We were sent off for two hours while Denby’s filler was sanded down and masking was done with newspaper. Finally we gave in to the souk-owner we’d passed many times in the street - we were always “too busy” or “late for dinner”. Zahid’s souk was actually very impressive and we dithered a bit over Berber rugs, but in the end I just settled for a silver necklace from the High Atlas. My bargaining skills were rated at 0/10 - didn’t even really try.
With more time to kill, we had brunch at Café Atlas - omelette with olives & chilli for me, Moroccan pancake for Rog. The latter is like a paratha folded around cheese and honey.
Back at the paint-shop, it was time to move Denby inside the garage (well, front inside, rear sticking out, like a child who’s very bad at hide and seek).
We were now told to return at 3pm, so it was time for a walk in the mountains. We circumnavigated one hill - up one dry wadi, and down another. Just 6.5km but the clouds were gone, so it was hot for us mad dogs in the midday sun. The middle part of the walk was fantastic - just us and the fabulous arid landscape.
Sadly, as can often be the case, the start and end of the walk led through an extended rubbish tip at the edges of town.
Back again at the paint-shop, we hung around for a while chatting to some young school girls about Flynn. They even dared each other to stroke him!
Our finish time was delayed until at least 4pm, so we went back into town for Rog to buy a SIM, and me to sit with an orange juice, restraining Flynn from reducing the cat population by one.
After Rog failed to buy a SIM (incompetence but not his), he left Flynn and me at the campsite with just a chair each, and returned to pick up Denby, eventually.
The bread man cycled around the campsite, with his usual call, “Pain, pain, macaron, macaron!” The French woman in the next van, an A class worth the GDP of the average African country, persisted in beating him down from two dirhams to one per loaf. (Khobz - the Moroccan flat(ish)bread that accompanies most tagines - https://www.tasteatlas.com/khobz)
A long while later, Rog returned. Denby looks fabulous! And all done to the agreed budget, and on the agreed day. We are very chuffed indeed with Moroccan workmanship and professionalism.
We moved back to our outside spot and had a G & T while firing up the barbecue. What a view with dinner!
Our old flat(very)breads were both inadequate in number and stale, so it was great news when the bread-man turned up again. We bought two of his loaves. Rog, having heard my story, gave him 5 dirhams, job done. But the bread-man, honest to a fault, tried to give us back the dirham we were owed. (We refused.) We certainly feel we’re seeing a different Morocco than the one we saw in Marrakesh. City rather than town? Or our own attitudes changing - not expecting to be gouged by everyone we meet.
The good news - Dad is still in hospital on IV antibiotics, but a bit less confused. Fingers crossed he may leave today or tomorrow.
The bad news - Denby’s engine check light is on, and our Webasto diesel heater isn’t coning on, despite it being only 8 degrees in the van. The former related to the funes in the paint shop, the latter the bump? Looks like we are not moving on today.
At 10am, a paint shop chap called for us, and we followed him on his motorbike back to the workshop.
We were surprised to find we were just one of many vans waiting, some getting a total respray.
We discovered the name of the business - Hassan Elmzare, at lamentably.lacework.impaled.
We were sent off for two hours while Denby’s filler was sanded down and masking was done with newspaper. Finally we gave in to the souk-owner we’d passed many times in the street - we were always “too busy” or “late for dinner”. Zahid’s souk was actually very impressive and we dithered a bit over Berber rugs, but in the end I just settled for a silver necklace from the High Atlas. My bargaining skills were rated at 0/10 - didn’t even really try.
With more time to kill, we had brunch at Café Atlas - omelette with olives & chilli for me, Moroccan pancake for Rog. The latter is like a paratha folded around cheese and honey.
Back at the paint-shop, it was time to move Denby inside the garage (well, front inside, rear sticking out, like a child who’s very bad at hide and seek).
We were now told to return at 3pm, so it was time for a walk in the mountains. We circumnavigated one hill - up one dry wadi, and down another. Just 6.5km but the clouds were gone, so it was hot for us mad dogs in the midday sun. The middle part of the walk was fantastic - just us and the fabulous arid landscape.
Sadly, as can often be the case, the start and end of the walk led through an extended rubbish tip at the edges of town.
Back again at the paint-shop, we hung around for a while chatting to some young school girls about Flynn. They even dared each other to stroke him!
Our finish time was delayed until at least 4pm, so we went back into town for Rog to buy a SIM, and me to sit with an orange juice, restraining Flynn from reducing the cat population by one.
After Rog failed to buy a SIM (incompetence but not his), he left Flynn and me at the campsite with just a chair each, and returned to pick up Denby, eventually.
The bread man cycled around the campsite, with his usual call, “Pain, pain, macaron, macaron!” The French woman in the next van, an A class worth the GDP of the average African country, persisted in beating him down from two dirhams to one per loaf. (Khobz - the Moroccan flat(ish)bread that accompanies most tagines - https://www.tasteatlas.com/khobz)
A long while later, Rog returned. Denby looks fabulous! And all done to the agreed budget, and on the agreed day. We are very chuffed indeed with Moroccan workmanship and professionalism.
We moved back to our outside spot and had a G & T while firing up the barbecue. What a view with dinner!
Our old flat(very)breads were both inadequate in number and stale, so it was great news when the bread-man turned up again. We bought two of his loaves. Rog, having heard my story, gave him 5 dirhams, job done. But the bread-man, honest to a fault, tried to give us back the dirham we were owed. (We refused.) We certainly feel we’re seeing a different Morocco than the one we saw in Marrakesh. City rather than town? Or our own attitudes changing - not expecting to be gouged by everyone we meet.
The good news - Dad is still in hospital on IV antibiotics, but a bit less confused. Fingers crossed he may leave today or tomorrow.
The bad news - Denby’s engine check light is on, and our Webasto diesel heater isn’t coning on, despite it being only 8 degrees in the van. The former related to the funes in the paint shop, the latter the bump? Looks like we are not moving on today.
MichaelT
LIFE MEMBER
Interesting to see how they are going to get the tall MH into the paintshop.
OP
OP
Jane And Rog
LIFE MEMBER
Yeah 
No error codes on the Webasto btw, if anyone out there is an expert. The LED is lit as normal, but heating is not happening.
No error codes on the Webasto btw, if anyone out there is an expert. The LED is lit as normal, but heating is not happening.
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OP
OP
Jane And Rog
LIFE MEMBER
Engine check light still on after at least 5 restarts. I suppose that means we are staying here and finding an engineer. 
canopus
LIFE MEMBER
Doubt you’ll find an ‘Engineer’, but I’m certain you will find someone in Tafraout who can help. Suggest you have a word with the paint shop people, they will have a cousin, brother or someone they know.
There are a number of mechanic shops in the street that runs at right angles from the road where the Mosque is, up to bank at the other end by souk.
There are a number of mechanic shops in the street that runs at right angles from the road where the Mosque is, up to bank at the other end by souk.
OP
OP
Jane And Rog
LIFE MEMBER
Well, a mechanic, I suppose I meant. We’re going through the campsite owner as we hope his relationship with them will help us, as we think it did yesterday.
Try disconnecting the battery for 30 mins and then reconnect and retry, it may reset the ecu.Engine check light still on after at least 5 restarts. I suppose that means we are staying here and finding an engineer.
Don't see how fumes in a paint shop would affect your engine light.Engine check light still on after at least 5 restarts. I suppose that means we are staying here and finding an engineer.
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