Jane & Rog’s retirement tour, Morocco 2023

[Jane And Rog]

Yesterday afternoon started off lazily, with our second game of Splendour Duel, which Rog bought me for Christmas. A very good camping game for two, I recommend it.

As the afternoon grew cooler, it was time for Flynn’s second walk. Rog and I differ on how much he should be allowed off lead (Rog tending to the “he’s a free dog” school of thought, whereas I’m more of the opinion that he shouldn’t be allowed to get himself, or us, in trouble.)

Sadly he did get himself and us in trouble, by appearing from a field with a dead chicken in his mouth! Luckily two women from the neighbouring house came to the door and we apologised profusely, offering money to pay for it. But they refused, saying it didn’t matter. It wouldn’t have been my reaction!

Our luck changed in the evening, when we invited a British couple (who had arrived that afternoon) to come over and share one of our two remaining bottled of Spanish red wine. Sadly our panicked leaving of Spain on Jan 5th meant that even less effort had been put into choosing the bottle than usual, and even less cash, so as to avoid losing too much to Moroccan customs. Basically, the wine was pretty dire.

We had a lovely chat, setting the world to rights a little, and Colin and Helen opened a second bottle, a much more classy Rioja.

Luckily, as we said good night, Rog gave Colin the address of our blog. This will save our bacon (turkey bacon, of course) tomorrow, when it’s my turn to mess things up.

 

[Gingernuts]

Like your blog
Only 47 weeks and 1 day til I retire and my first trip is………Morocco
Keep it up loving the photos

 

[Revolvor]

Excellent thread, keep up the good work
Only one thing for me would rather have p4n reference instead of w3w. I keep thinking what's she talking about before realising what they were.

Please include W3W!

 

[Jane And Rog]

One thing I meant to mention about Camping Les Oliviers is that it would make a good base to visit Essaouiria. The camp site will organise a taxi for you, which should take 20-30 minutes. Small dogs would be allowed, but large chicken-killers weren’t.

 

[Jays2]

I’m in the camp of Rog with regard to our dogs, whilst Jan is in yours.
However your experience has galvanised my understanding that extending leads could be useful in area’s populated!

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[Littlewheels]

Not terrible value given the location and all you can drink wine, we thought. It was a birthday treat meal too! But we don’t want this kind of thing every day, for sure

You often mention food and wine and obtaining water but no mention of the quality, can l ask about what you do for drinking water and it’s availability.thanks.

 

[Jane And Rog]

We’ve been drinking water from campsite taps, where the hoses look clean. Anything in our water tank is always boiled, but we have a jerry can for drinking cold, plus flasks by our bed and in the cab doors. When the water tastes dreadful, which it can if it’s desalinated, we buy large 5l bottles to top up the cold water supplies.

 

[Roger S]

So a nice cheap chicken dinner tomorrow !

 

[Jays2]

So what did you do with the chicken?

 

[Jane And Rog]

We weren’t allowed to pay for it, so presumably the owners took it and cooked it.

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[Mousy]

We weren’t allowed to pay for it, so presumably the owners took it and cooked it.

Coming to a tagine near you soon!

 

[billym]

We weren’t allowed to pay for it, so presumably the owners took it and cooked it.

You are near the huge early Sunday farmers market at Had Draa where fresh food really means fresh.( Two miles back on N1 from Ounaragh
Not for the faint hearted but definitely the most thought provoking place we visited in Morocco.

Had Draa market, Essaouira: one of Morocco's largest markets

Everything you need to know about Had Draa market, Essaouira, including how to get there and what to expect.

exploreessaouira.com

 

[Gina M]

Yesterday afternoon started off lazily, with our second game of Splendour Duel, which Rog bought me for Christmas. A very good camping game for two, I recommend it.

View attachment 705831

As the afternoon grew cooler, it was time for Flynn’s second walk. Rog and I differ on how much he should be allowed off lead (Rog tending to the “he’s a free dog” school of thought, whereas I’m more of the opinion that he shouldn’t be allowed to get himself, or us, in trouble.)

Sadly he did get himself and us in trouble, by appearing from a field with a dead chicken in his mouth! Luckily two women from the neighbouring house came to the door and we apologised profusely, offering money to pay for it. But they refused, saying it didn’t matter. It wouldn’t have been my reaction!

Our luck changed in the evening, when we invited a British couple (who had arrived that afternoon) to come over and share one of our two remaining bottled of Spanish red wine. Sadly our panicked leaving of Spain on Jan 5th meant that even less effort had been put into choosing the bottle than usual, and even less cash, so as to avoid losing too much to Moroccan customs. Basically, the wine was pretty dire.

We had a lovely chat, setting the world to rights a little, and Colin and Helen opened a second bottle, a much more classy Rioja.

Luckily, as we said good night, Rog gave Colin the address of our blog. This will save our bacon (turkey bacon, of course) tomorrow, when it’s my turn to mess things up.

My Stanley killed a chicken on a walk locally and the owner called the police on him. I was sat sobbing as the police officer cautioned me and him and told me I was close to being charged with owning a dangerous dog. I told the police officer that Stanley didn't mean to kill the chicken he just picked it up then the owner started effing and jeffing and filming him and he got scared and bit into the chicken, if she had kept calm I could easily have taken the chicken off him. He once picked up a Partridge and carried it across the lawn then sat down to play with it and it just flew off!!! sorry for those who will accuse me for drifting off thread, have been on my own all day!! still loving this thread though and Mr Ginam says he feels more confident now about going to Morocco after reading it too.

 

[makems]

We’ve been drinking water from campsite taps, where the hoses look clean. Anything in our water tank is always boiled, but we have a jerry can for drinking cold, plus flasks by our bed and in the cab doors. When the water tastes dreadful, which it can if it’s desalinated, we buy large 5l bottles to top up the cold water supplies.

the large 5l bottles of water are readily available everywhere and cheap -its what the Moroccans drink. We used this for drinking/tea/coffee. We only used tap water for washing up, showers and laundry. We also used purification tablets in the water Theonlysue got them from some disaster relief organisation I think. We only needed half a tablet per tankful but didn’t want to take chances.
The biggest danger in water from taps on campsites is not the water itself - it is other motorhomers! I have lost count of the times I have seen people rinsing out their toilet cassettes at drinking water taps (dirty barstewards!)
In a typical 3 month visit to Maroc we usually managed to get away with just one dose of the skitters (usually Mrs Makems) I think I might have cast iron insides.

 

[Jane And Rog]

Sunrise here is at 8:36. It tends to make for a late start to the day, even for us morning people. But we did well yesterday, driving off at just past 9.

“Did you pay on check-in?” asked Rog.

“Yes,” I said.

We stopped at Carrefour in Essaouira for supplies - more food, fly spray, and, we hoped, booze. But even though we waited to the 10am opening of the booze section (in the main shop, but behind padlocked doors), we were out of luck. We didn’t find anyone who spoke French but gathered the idea that it was closed for good.

(Note the Christmas tree. Those Muslims, ignoring 12th night!)

Our route lay south, a little inland from the coast, argan orchards on both sides of the road.

Argan oil is either used in cooking, or for cosmetic purposes. It’s supposed to bring back youth to your skin and hair. Since mine are both in dire need of said youth, we stopped to buy a small bottle for testing purposes, from a female cooperative. I wasn’t feeling it with the bargaining so got a measly reduction - 50 dirhams for 50ml. Rog said it was over £30 in Selfridges though.

We stopped for lunch among the argan trees. Wednesday’s couscous and zaalouk made a great salad with some added feta.

As we drove off, I checked my email. Ah, great, a new comment from Colin, who we met last night!



Oh no, it’s because we drove off without paying for the campsite! The camp manager is apparently very distressed, and Colin has paid our bill for us.
Pull in, pull in, I say to Rog, and luckily that’s possible sooner rather than later. I transfer £32 to Colin’s account, and ask him to apologise to the poor manager, who was probably nervous that the money would have to come from his wages. Colin’s later email said that if he hadn’t paid for us, our names would have been given to the gendarmerie! So thanks again Colin, for helping us out massively, and saving us from a Moroccan prison. I like to experience all of a country, but that would be a step too far.

I’m actually surprised this has never happened before. Some sites (UK) you book and pay in advance, otgerwise it tends to be on arrival. Here in Morocco it’s been 50-50 pay on check-in or on departure. It’s difficult keeping track.

We needed a break, and Flynn a walk, so we dared another Atlantic beach, this time armed with plenty of water. It was lovely.

Just behind the beach proper was a large, flat sandy area where people were wild camping (30.7111, -9.8485, transfer.dislodge.rosebuds) We discussed stopping but didn’t, which I regret slightly.

Fancying fish with a sea view for dinner, we stopped at a site south of Taghazout, but looking over the rows and rows of vans parked like big white sardines in a dusty old tin, we decided it wasn’t our scene and drove on.

We have camped for two nights at Camping Aourir (rebel.winks.doubt) in the valley that leads up to become Paradise Valley, where we’re hoping to walk today.

I tried my very hardest to pay for our two nights up front, but the manager wasn’t having it. So I fashioned a little memory aide out of a photo of some dirhams printed out and pinned up on our “memory board.”

Flynn was given another walk, this time along the dry wadi, with natural hazards such as cacti and goats, plus some unknown animal which lives in an alarmingly big hole.

Good hot showers, and I tried the argan oil. I think it’s worked!

Rog had ordered us both a kofte and egg tagine tonight - 50 dirhams or just over £3.

We were due up at the restaurant to eat at 7:30pm but when we got there, no one was home. Eventually we found someone, who drove off to the village to get the key - our tagines had been made but left, cooling, inside the locked restaurant!

We eventually ate, in the van, at about 8:30pm.

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[Jane And Rog]

My Stanley killed a chicken on a walk locally and the owner called the police on him. I was sat sobbing as the police officer cautioned me and him and told me I was close to being charged with owning a dangerous dog. I told the police officer that Stanley didn't mean to kill the chicken he just picked it up then the owner started effing and jeffing and filming him and he got scared and bit into the chicken, if she had kept calm I could easily have taken the chicken off him. He once picked up a Partridge and carried it across the lawn then sat down to play with it and it just flew off!!! sorry for those who will accuse me for drifting off thread, have been on my own all day!! still loving this thread though and Mr Ginam says he feels more confident now about going to Morocco after reading it too.

Hugs, I really feel for you. I don’t think it’s right to treat you like a criminal when your dog is doing what dogs do. A chicken isn’t a pet, either.

 

[Jays2]

They are to some people.
It’s also stock, if your dog chased a sheep in the uk, the farmer is within his rights to shoot it.
I am really happy you have highlighted the problem us dog owners could face.
It will make Me lead our dogs around occupied rural areas.

 

[Otter Spotter]

Just seen this, funny how we scan read, thought it said Jacob Reece Mog's retirement tour.

You wish !

 

[Gina M]

They are to some people.
It’s also stock, if your dog chased a sheep in the uk, the farmer is within his rights to shoot it.
I am really happy you have highlighted the problem us dog owners could face.
It will make Me lead our dogs around occupied rural areas.

The chicken my dog caught was classed as stock that's why the police got involved

 

[Jane And Rog]

We got Flynn sheep.-proofed by a local farmer - well worth it.

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[Gina M]

We got Flynn sheep.-proofed by a local farmer - well worth it.

What does that mean sheep-proofed. We had sheep on our field once and Stanley dragged one of them across the field. I managed to get him to let go though without any harm to her and I phoned the Farmer and told him about it and he was Ok with it, not sure he would have been Ok about it if the sheep had died.

 

[MartynSuz]

I've said it already, but needs saying again.....thanks so much for taking the time to put all this information on here. We, like many others are planning to head for Morocco very soon and as it will be our first time the information is most welcome.

 

[Grianan]

What does that mean sheep-proofed. We had sheep on our field once and Stanley dragged one of them across the field. I managed to get him to let go though without any harm to her and I phoned the Farmer and told him about it and he was Ok with it, not sure he would have been Ok about it if the sheep had died.

Not sure if this varies but sheep-proofed is often putting a dog in with a tup (ram) and basically the ram butts the dog every time the dog gets too close.

 

[Jane And Rog]

In our case he was put in a small pen with three ewes. When he showed the slightest interest in them (and it was slight, he doesn’t hunt larger animals, but sheep are a bit borderline), then the farmer threw a plastic bottle full of pebbles, to land right next to him. Two goes and he was frightened of them (The farmer, who had no great opinion of the intelligence of pointers was impressed.) There was a third throw for luck, and then he got tested in a field full of sheep. Flynn wanted to go nowhere near them, so he climbed into a filthy water trough instead.

 

[Grianan]

In our case he was put in a small pen with three ewes. When he showed the slightest interest in them (and it was slight, he doesn’t hunt larger animals, but sheep are a bit borderline), then the farmer threw a plastic bottle full of pebbles, to land right next to him. Two goes and he was frightened of them (The farmer, who had no great opinion of the intelligence of pointers was impressed.) There was a third throw for luck, and then he got tested in a field full of sheep. Flynn wanted to go nowhere near them, so he climbed into a filthy water trough instead.

That sounds kinder than the method we have heard of …

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[Jane And Rog]

Paradise valley is in the foothills of the High Atlas, famous for its deep pools of water and rocky ravines. We decided to visit early in the day, when it was cooler for Flynn and easier to park, but this did mean that the sun didn’t reach us until the end of our walk, making for poor photos.

We drove up the Tamraght river valley, along increasingly narrower and bumpier roads.

After about 30 minutes, we parked at a small lay-by near the start of the walk (cared.abate.hummed) - I don’t think anything very much bigger, or wider than Denby could have parked there, but there may (must?) have been more parking up the road.

The walk was about 6.5 km in total, although the path continued onwards when we turned back. We picked up a trio of street dogs at the very first café, and one of them accompanied us all the way. I think she’d taken a shine to Flynn, but sadly the things she was interested in were thrown into a vet’s waste bin years before.

There was a steepish climb followed by a corresponding drop down to the river, and a green palm and bamboo-filled oasis, full of little make-shift cafés setting up for the day. A very hippy traveller vibe.

As we walked on, we left them behind and the valley became a steep-sided ravine. The path climbed to the top of the cliffs of the ravine - with the loose stones and no handrails, a little scary for me. Wear ankle-supporting boots!

Eventually the path dropped again, and we clambered down to explore the ravine bottom. The pools were merely large muddy puddles. Morocco has had low rainfall for a couple of years now, so there was no swimming to be had (apart from for Flynn, who is not averse to a large muddy puddle).

As we walked back at about midday, the hordes were arriving in minibuses from the coastal resorts, making the paths even more exciting as we squeezed past people. If you want the place to yourself, visit in the morning.

We stopped at one of the little cafés by the river for a well-deserved orange juice.

On our way back, we had an omelette with tomato and spices, and a mint tea, at Café du Miel (duplicity.flounce.starstruck). Mainly chosen for its stunning view though - if you fancy anything to eat other than an omelette with tomato and spices, or perhaps bread and amlou, it’s not ideal.

A view of our campsite, Camping Aourir. I’d recommend it - the showers are good, there’s a route out to the wadi to walk dogs, and there’s a restaurant on site that seems to be more open in the daytime. People come around selling things like almond biscuits and Berber bread, but it’s a low-key sell, and nice to have the option.

 

[Wingingit#1]

I think i can see your van .

Cracking pics , thanks .

 

[Gina M]

I think i can see your van .

Cracking pics , thanks .

Me too

 

[tufty]

That all looks great & just the sort of thing we would love. Thanks for showing us your photos & describing it all with some really useful info.

 

[Jane And Rog]

A driving day. First a walk for Flynn in the cool of the day in the hills above the campsite. There was a lovely morning mist in the valley.

Next stop Carrefour in Agadir - there are several, but the largest one on the bypass one has a booze section, this time inside the supermarket proper, albeit with a separate till. I checked some more prices - vodka was the most reasonable spirit, which you could get for about £10-12 a bottle. Moroccan wine and beer were both reasonable prices at the cheap end, though time will tell what the quality is like!

The guardian showed us to parking for longer vehicles, behind Decathlon, at showcases.shortwave.franchiser - this is also in the shade of the building so great if you are leaving a dog in the van.

Our destination was Tafraoute, which caused us, or rather me, some problems - namely my awful fear of heights. We took the route suggested by Google, via the RP1900 rather than the RR105, which also seemed to take the lowest contours according to the map. It was fine to start with - great road surface and dual lane, but turned into a single lane with precipitous drops. No photos, as I was clinging to the inside arm of my chair with my eyes tight shut, asking Rog when it would ever end. I’m a brave warrior, I know.

We’ve already passed many camels at the side of the road in Morocco, but this little herd was the first I saw with babies in it.

Everyone knows how long camels can go without water, but did you know that they can smell bodies of water 50km away? We were now in Berber country, and the main use of camels here is as transport, carrying people and goods through dry terrain. They are also eaten, though I’ve yet to find a camel tagine on the menu.

Berber country is the country of kasbahs - fortresses - here usually built on high places out of the same red rock they stand on, seeming to grow out of the hill. We passed a couple of ruins we would have liked to explore, but the most impressive to look at was Tizourgane Kazbah (frisks.enjoyment.sharpens), its small conical hill sitting alone in front of the towering Anti Atlas mountains. It’s a hotel, so you could stay there if you wish.

Eventually we dropped down to Ameln and then Tafraoute. Our campsite is Camping les Trois Palmiers, heartfelt.steamboats.invariable, 80 dirhams a night (£6.50) but 15 for each shower. It’s a small walled compound so feels very secure, but we’re quite tempted by the wide open spaces of the aire next door, where people are camping in masses of space, with views of the mountains all around them.

Tafraoute is a small town of 5,000 people, famous for its almond festival in the second week of February. If we’d not had to rush back for my father’s birthday, we would have made sure our timings worked for it.

We walked Flynn at sunset around the massive aire and out to the foot of the mountains. The warm light on the red granite mountains was amazing.

Tafraoute was buzzing as we walked out for dinner at about 7:30 pm. You could certainly get all the food supplies you need to live here - even fish. Oh, and washing machines.

The chap in brown above is not in a Moroccan order of the Ku Klux Klan. He’s wearing his djellaba - this is a warm winter model made from wool, because it’s an icy 17 degrees this evening.

We ate at the Kasbah restaurant, which was offering three courses for 90 dirhams (£14). Absinthe tea was on the menu so of course we had to try it. It was good - slightly more bitter so a good counter to the ubiquitous sugar. It also has many purported health benefits, including curing memory loss.

Uh, what was I talking about? Oh yes, the meal. We both started with harira soup (tomatoes, chickpeas and lentils), then I had a beef, almond and date tagine and Rog had one with “slices of meat” and egg. They were both delicious but the service was so slow that we skipped our dessert oranges and went back to rescue Flynn.

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