Hymer Duomobile Indicator Woes

peterc10 said:
I think it is time to start kicking the supplying dealers who you have your contract with. They will need to kick Hymer if they want to, not you.
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If you read post#27 you will see I have done so in the first week of ownership of brand new van as far as I can see the dealers are aware they just dont seem to be bothered.🤔
 
Speve said:
If you read post#27 you will see I have done so in the first week of ownership of brand new van as far as I can see the dealers are aware they just dont seem to be bothered.🤔
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Sorry, I read that post to mean that you had bought it in Europe and were on your way to the UK when the light failed. If that is the case the UK Act probably does not apply, although there may be an equivalent in the country of the dealer you bought it from.
 
peterc10 said:
Surely if these headlight units are failing after 3 years such that they need to be renewed at £700 there is a Consumer Rights Act issue here. They are clearly not of satisfactory quality regarding durability, see Section 9(1) and (9)(3)(e). That is especially so when you take into account the price of the motorhome, see Section 9(2)(b) .

I think it is time to start kicking the supplying dealers who you have your contract with. They will need to kick Hymer if they want to, not you.
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It's not the healamps but wiring looms that appears to be the problem.
 
Lenny HB said:
It's not the healamps but wiring looms that appears to be the problem.
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Lenny, it does not matter, the motorhome is not fit for purpose as a headlamp or loom should not fail after 3 years on a vehicle of this price. Maybe ring up your supplier to see what he knows about it if it is this common? Otherwise you could always try suing them in Belgium :ROFLMAO:
 
Speve said:
My vans headlight failed on its way to the UK having just picked it up from the dealer brand new so luckily covered by warranty, however someone on HOG has discovered there is a fault as you can see in my post#25 above.😊
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Thanks Speve, going to follow post#25 comments as soon as this UK weather improves to allow opening of bonnet.

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peterc10 said:
Sorry, I read that post to mean that you had bought it in Europe and were on your way to the UK when the light failed. If that is the case the UK Act probably does not apply, although there may be an equivalent in the country of the dealer you bought it from.
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You were correct I did self import and Durrwang were good enough to send me the new headlight which I fitted myself and they paid for all postage etc even to return faulty unit.
I think that in particular the German dealer in my case were aware of an issue as they knew exactly what I needed to do they first sent the transformer to try which did not work then without any fuss immediately sent the headlight to me.
I agree with you that UK dealers need a kick up the backside to chase things up as they seem reluctant to make waves.😊
 
Hi Alan Speve I've checked all the connection as post #25 I can't find anything wrong.
He did mention he would do a follow up post, can I use your FB skills to see if there is one please.
 
Lenny HB said:
Hi Alan Speve I've checked all the connection as post #25 I can't find anything wrong.
He did mention he would do a follow up post, can I use your FB skills to see if there is one please.
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Yes I am monitoring it so as soon as he posts anything I will let you know. It’s a nightmare finding anything on there so I have set the follow tag.
 
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Wrote an email to Hymer technical and received their response this morning. Basically saying “an objective and conclusive assessment ... from Germany not possible”. They referred me to the responsible Hymer dealer and said they were happy to assist the Hymer dealer after the transmission of a progress report.
That’s great if you bought the vehicle new from a Hymer dealer, but what about the secondhand buyer?

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MIJOBA said:
That’s great if you bought the vehicle new from a Hymer dealer, but what about the secondhand buyer
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They could still go to a dealer and get it looked at and report to Hymer but it sounds like Hymer don’t want to deal with customers direct unless you go straight to Bad Walser while you are in Europe?🤔
 
Speve said:
They could still go to a dealer and get it looked at and report to Hymer but it sounds like Hymer don’t want to deal with customers direct unless you go straight to Bad Walser while you are in Europe?🤔
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The Bad Waldsee service centre is a separate company to Hymer (just a dealer) and not as helpful as they used to be.
When we had our first Hymer in 2008 you could email Hymer and they would be helpful and give you answers but for the last 6 or 7 years they just refer you to your dealer.
 
An answer at last! We found an autoelectrician with the courage to take it on and they fixed it! It was two breaks in a wire under an overtightened plastic tie! DJE Auto electricians, Pontyclun.

Not pleased at the difficulty in getting this sorted and that it was all due to a factory fault.

But we’re on the road again.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. Much appreciated.
 
Did they upgrade the wiring thickness as part of the repair?
 
Lafant said:
An answer at last! We found an autoelectrician with the courage to take it on and they fixed it! It was two breaks in a wire under an overtightened plastic tie! DJE Auto electricians, Pontyclun.

Not pleased at the difficulty in getting this sorted and that it was all due to a factory fault.

But we’re on the road again.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. Much appreciated.
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Just fixed mine, 1 break and 5 potential breaks on one loom & 1 potential on the other, I will post with pics in a bit. Looked like the wires had been nicked during the loom manufacture.

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Took the van into J G Auto Electrics yesterday, they reckoned they had found the fault on the indicator wire behind the fuse box and said indicator pulse was getting to the plug on the loom now. They said I need a new headlamp as it was duff, I had already told them that I'd swapped the units over and it worked, they said it wasn't working now, offered to order one £757 + VAT (£908).
They charged £275 for the work.

This morning I had another look I swapped the headlamp unit to the other side and it worked, he said as I needed to change the headlamp he hadn't cable tied the loom back, but the loom was still cable tied to the back of the lamp.
Then I thought has he swapped the lamp over complete with the loom, sure enough the loom was the problem.

While bussing through the loom with the help of the boss, not simple as all the wires are black, while tugging on one wire it broke, must have been hanging on by a thread of the insulation.

Further investigation I found several wires in the loom nicked with corrosion on the copper showing. I repaired them by cutting, stripping back then soldering, sleeve each joint with 1 mm silicon sleeving then adhesive lined heat shrink.

I made 6 repairs to the left hand loom and 1 to the right hand loom.
All working now.

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Lenny HB said:
Took the van into J G Auto Electrics yesterday, they reckoned they had found the fault on the indicator wire behind the fuse box and said indicator pulse was getting to the plug on the loom now. They said I need a new headlamp as it was duff, I had already told them that I'd swapped the units over and it worked, they said it wasn't working now, offered to order one £757 + VAT (£908).
They charged £275 for the work.

This morning I had another look I swapped the headlamp unit to the other side and it worked, he said as I needed to change the headlamp he hadn't cable tied the loom back, but the loom was still cable tied to the back of the lamp.
Then I thought has he swapped the lamp over complete with the loom, sure enough the loom was the problem.

While bussing through the loom with the help of the boss, not simple as all the wires are black, while tugging on one wire it broke, must have been hanging on by a thread of the insulation.

Further investigation I found several wires in the loom nicked with corrosion on the copper showing. I repaired them by cutting, stripping back then soldering, sleeve each joint with 1 mm silicon sleeving then adhesive lined heat shrink.

I made 6 repairs to the left hand loom and 1 to the right hand loom.
All working now.

View attachment 424270

View attachment 424271

View attachment 424272
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Good work Lenny. I have the same headlight unit and the vehicle is still under warranty but only just so I would want to check or at least log the potential issue with the dealer before warranty runs out. Should I simply be asking them to check the wiring loom on the headlight/indicator issue?
 
Blinkin Heck....this could be a worry. Is it a particular age of Hymer effected?
 
pandas said:
Good work Lenny. I have the same headlight unit and the vehicle is still under warranty but only just so I would want to check or at least log the potential issue with the dealer before warranty runs out. Should I simply be asking them to check the wiring loom on the headlight/indicator issue?
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I doubt if a dealer would give it a very thorough check best to do it yourself.
Take the headlamp out just the 3 socket cap screws at the top. Cut the cable ties holding the loom to the chassis & headlamp, unplug from main loom, ballast unit & headlamp.
You can then pull the loom braiding back to inspect the wires, often green copper corrosion around the nicks.

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Lenny HB said:
Took the van into J G Auto Electrics yesterday, they reckoned they had found the fault on the indicator wire behind the fuse box and said indicator pulse was getting to the plug on the loom now. They said I need a new headlamp as it was duff, I had already told them that I'd swapped the units over and it worked, they said it wasn't working now, offered to order one £757 + VAT (£908).
They charged £275 for the work.

This morning I had another look I swapped the headlamp unit to the other side and it worked, he said as I needed to change the headlamp he hadn't cable tied the loom back, but the loom was still cable tied to the back of the lamp.
Then I thought has he swapped the lamp over complete with the loom, sure enough the loom was the problem.

While bussing through the loom with the help of the boss, not simple as all the wires are black, while tugging on one wire it broke, must have been hanging on by a thread of the insulation.

Further investigation I found several wires in the loom nicked with corrosion on the copper showing. I repaired them by cutting, stripping back then soldering, sleeve each joint with 1 mm silicon sleeving then adhesive lined heat shrink.

I made 6 repairs to the left hand loom and 1 to the right hand loom.
All working now.

View attachment 424270

View attachment 424271

View attachment 424272
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What do you think caused the wires to break?
 
Robert Clark said:
What do you think caused the wires to break?
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The insulation had been nicked during manufacture looks like a stripping machine when feeding the wires through had been set too tight. There were circular cuts through the insulation. the wire is bare copper so with exposure to the atmosphere they corroded, only one wire was actually broken.
Probably worse where I am only 200 yards from the beach.
 
I've not read the whole thread.

If it's not fixed you could try;

IMG_20200912_093537.jpg


Ross, the owner, is a mechanic and engineer who loves a challenge to fix something over swapping endless parts in and out.

He cares for all mechanical aspects of my van.

Open Monday to Friday, 8:30am.

Down towards Wentloog, near Pinewood Wales.

PS, not so hot with emails, phone or drop by.
 
Geo said:
If I had a pound for every fuse and connection that tested good and still failed to operate what it should I would be a good few pounds richer.
Simply open circuit or closed circuit right
Not on your life.
They do pass muster with a test lamp or meter but the sneaky ones faint when asked to perform.
Bear that in mind always when circuit testing
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Simply a function of meter resistance. A multimeter places no load on the circuit and will read (for example) 12v through a length of wet string. In unskilled hands a test BULB is much better option. It is impossible to test circuit function with a multimeter.
 
Lenny HB said:
Have you got the plastic headlamps with LED indicators & DRL's? Which is the type this is about.

Edit:
If your profile is correct you have a BPL which has Almond Eyes so not applicable.
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Thank you Lenny
 
Sent my dealer the info on the fault this was the reply, & asked them for new looms.

"indeed, hymer is aware of this problem and we are indeed assigned a new wiring harness for the newer models. good that you were able to solve it yourself."

They could have told me when I asked for info weeks ago then I wouldn't be £275 down with the bill from the auto electrician.
 
StitchesnFluff
With the Almond eye headlamps you want to change the DRL bulbs (std 21 watt bulb) for an LED bulb.
With the 21 Watt bulb the holder overheats and breaks up. It is not a problem fitting LED bulbs as no ballast unit is required as the DRL's are not on the bulb failure circuit.
 
Lenny HB said:
StitchesnFluff
With the Almond eye headlamps you want to change the DRL bulbs (std 21 watt bulb) for an LED bulb.
With the 21 Watt bulb the holder overheats and breaks up. It is not a problem fitting LED bulbs as no ballast unit is required as the DRL's are not on the bulb failure circuit.
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Thank you Lenny, still hanging onto this van can’t see one we prefer! (For the size anyway!)

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