If you look up on you tube it shows how to fill tubes with presta valves. It's a bit of a carry on but possible
Chipster
LIFE MEMBER
Valve core should come out of presta ok for top up. I do. Currently using the Muk Off slime.
Just read the info on the tubes and it states they don’t need topping up for at least two years. ????
Big advantage of tubeless is no tubes, so you can run at lower pressures for comfort and grip, without risking pinch flats.
Add to that the slightly lower weight, which is important at the wheel rim, and the ability to top up the sealant as and when needed, makes it a winner for me
Add to that the slightly lower weight, which is important at the wheel rim, and the ability to top up the sealant as and when needed, makes it a winner for me
Silver-Fox
LIFE MEMBER
You can undo some Presta valves ?
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You can certainly remove the valve core from presta valves ?
Tubeless sealant has a lifespan of around 4/6 months - I suspect sure stuff they put in inner tubes is different although, by being sealed in an inner tube, might protect it a little more from degrading.
Tubeless sealant has a lifespan of around 4/6 months - I suspect sure stuff they put in inner tubes is different although, by being sealed in an inner tube, might protect it a little more from degrading.
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has anyone on here mentioned a product called "Slime". Used it 2 years ago. Pulled a large thorn from tyre (tubed) followed instructions on bottle. 2 years on, & the tyre has not lost pressure. Brilliant stuff.
I think Slime is intended for use with inner tubes as mentioned in a few posts. This is Ok and a good extra layer of protection and probably a good half way house, as you avoid the need to buy tubeless specific tyres and rims.
But you still run the risk of pinch flats and have the extra weight, so if you’re buying a new bike or do a lot of cycling off road, full tubeless is a better solution for someone planning to do a lot of (mostly) off-road cycling
But you still run the risk of pinch flats and have the extra weight, so if you’re buying a new bike or do a lot of cycling off road, full tubeless is a better solution for someone planning to do a lot of (mostly) off-road cycling
Silver-Fox
LIFE MEMBER
Price wise there’s not a big difference between tube and tubeless tyres from what I’ve seen.
Lots of tyres seem to be tubeless ready as well
Lots of tyres seem to be tubeless ready as well
I agree ?
The only larger expense I could see, for someone converting for the first time, is tubeless wheels/rims if you’re running anything other than pretty low pressures on a mountain bike.
The prospect of a tyre blowing off a non-tubeless rim at speed, is a bit sobering ?
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kevenh
Free Member
There are people that convert tubed setups to tubeless to be found on the internet.
Our own Lanerboy has a pretty sound method (Post 23 earlier in this thread).
I have not had to try it and can only advocate a full tubeless combo: rim, rim tape, valve and tyres but that’s just because of not trying any other combo.
YMMV
Silver-Fox
LIFE MEMBER
My rims were tubeless.
I bought a full kit as it was marginally cheaper and I knew it would all fit.
Ive read people use duck tape for rim tape as well.
To be honest I could deal with that faff of cutting it ??
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Switch out your innertubes for a pair of Slime innertubes. Cost about £8 each. Job done. Going forwards make sure you run your tyres at appropriate psi for ground conditions. I fitted Slime tubes to my Boardman mtb when i bought 4 yrs ago. No punctures including 3 days of downhilling at BPW.
You might also consider changing your tyres for a decent make if bike was supplied with no name rubber.
You might also consider changing your tyres for a decent make if bike was supplied with no name rubber.
Bluemanc100
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I've just picked up a Kinesis road bike with Tubs... Never had them before so I'll need to do a little research starting with this thread... I plan to use the bike for general fitness only for now so not sure I'll need to carry too much in case of punctures as SWMBO can come to get me if I am stuck 
Boringfrog
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£70 for 2 tyres......must be mad.
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kevenh
Free Member
Is that a tyre for a hybrid/hard packed trail & soft or muddy trail?
I ask as it looks to have sturdier tread on the edges where you’d roll on to in a corner than on the central area.
Silver-Fox
LIFE MEMBER
Silver-Fox
LIFE MEMBER
I used Stans as it’s tried and tested.
Everywhere I researched it came up as the go to product.
I approached the tubeless route as I do most things and if the saving is only a couple of quid over a recommendation I’ll go with the recommendation.
Any links to the stuff you’ve discovered.
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No. But I think their cycle specific sealant will be OK based on results from this multi product test.
When I chose Stans I followed the herd but only on my 2d bottle & buy in sales.
Let us know how OKO works for you
We have 3 tubeless mtb in our house and although we often get topped up with sealant for free, it is time consuming and frustrating to have to grt it done as often as we do. I read that OKo, when diluted, lasts longer (around a year) and is almost or as good as Stans and is considerably cheaper.
Stans doesn't have the best write ups - eg. https://www.mbr.co.uk/buyers_guide/best-tubeless-sealant-378703 and it was looking like it would cost around £30 per bike per year to use it.
A few reports recommend OKO including these comments
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For £9, it seems reasonable to try, especially if it saves time with frequency of top ups and means that I end up with fewer flat tyres because the old stuff has dried out: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/20033702757
This site contains affiliate links for which MHF may be compensated.
Boringfrog
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More of a road/gravel type tyre, saving my more knobbly tyres for Winter. Mate has a carbon gravel bike and I need all the help to try and keep up with him on my mountain bike.
Boringfrog
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Bought it many years ago for my off road motorbike, got slime tubeless specific goo for my bike the other day.
kevenh
Free Member
Not sure how long ago your motorbike use was, but there’s newer OKO products specific to cycle tyres
Boringfrog
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Many decades ago.....I remember hammering a nail intro my tyre to test the goo, it worked.Not sure how long ago your motorbike use was, but there’s newer OKO products specific to cycle tyres
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Just a thought.....
If you get a puncture in your car tyre too close to the side wall the tyre is scrap. What happens to your bike tyre with a few sealed holes in when going down hill at 40mph? Has there ever been a tubeless bike tyre fall apart at speed?
If you get a puncture in your car tyre too close to the side wall the tyre is scrap. What happens to your bike tyre with a few sealed holes in when going down hill at 40mph? Has there ever been a tubeless bike tyre fall apart at speed?
kevenh
Free Member
An old worm out tyre maybe but the loads and stress on a cycle are a lot lower than vehicles.
The sealant fixed a gash on my rear tyre’s sidewall mid ride. Only about a 3mm gash on the inside but back at base I used a tubeless tyre repair kit.
It has glue to apply to the outside damage and a patch to apply on the inside
Boringfrog
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My mate got 3 punctures last week on the same ride out, the third was a front wheel blowout, used all his Co2 cartridges up on the 1st two punctures. Was doing maybe 20mph, still pretty scarey.
Ridgeway
LIFE MEMBER
I'd be cautious with any sidewall ruptures, likely i'd bin the tyre. On the tread though i'd happily repair any holes up to say 5-6mm OD.
Assuming a tyre failed (for any reason) at high speed then it really depends how fast it deflates and on which wheel. Last Spring my front failed (inner tube) on a descent, it totally deflated in about 3-4 seconds. I was a hairy deceleration to say the least.
Silver-Fox
LIFE MEMBER
I’ve just read some info on the Oko sealant.
It said you need 1.25 lts for a ride on mower.
Does this seem a lot.
Didn’t see anything about bike tyres.
It said you need 1.25 lts for a ride on mower.
Does this seem a lot.
Didn’t see anything about bike tyres.
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