Mr porky
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Good news at last
Doc on tour, France, Spain, Morroco.
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Big money but fabulous to have
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Northernraider
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Feck sake
Fireworks again ....can't feckin escape them
Fireworks again ....can't feckin escape them
I’d be checking the callipers, possibly binding , even with slight binding & over use on down hills it could be excessively raising fluid temperature , at £100 I would also change the master cylinder , I’d do the work myself, doing rural I often have to , I manage to bleed by using a clamp on the flexi pipes , I just tighten the clamp enough so I can force the fluid through with the pedal, that way it can’t draw air back in , I’ve done quite a few times now with 100% success
Happy New Year
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Langtoftlad
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New Year you said...
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Northernraider
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Aye I need to check all calipers and pads again to see what's happening. The master cylinder is on order I just have to wait on it getting to me ill have the wheels off over the next day or two
funflair
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He might not like the price
I’m not sure as a retrofit but I know the Kloft is cheaper than Telma (both eddy current).
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Northernraider
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Hmm I'm no so sure lol I think half the dust came in through the blower fan.
My aircon needs regassed though.. was almost blowing warm air today
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- Nov 19, 2017
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Hi Tam. Chill for a few days and do your own evaluations. You'll work stuff out eventually and sort it. Good luck with everything
Love that bus, beautiful.
Oh and a HAPPY NEW YEAR.
Oh and a HAPPY NEW YEAR.
The master cylinder works on the “flat” roads. It doesn’t know you are on hills…and you say you still have pedal. Therefore it appears to be working normally . ( for sure change it…gives peace of mind)
You experience lack of braking down hills. So it’s temperature related…we all call this “fade”
As the pads heat up they glaze over. It’s like rubbing two polished surfaces together so there is no friction, no stopping power.
Pads can be of poor quality or contaminated with ferrous. Have the discs ever been replaced?or ever been rusty? It’s a common misconception that driving will clear bad brakes. It does clean discs but the ferrous contamination seriously affects the pads.
You will know because the pads will be shiny and smooth. They should be dull and have texture. Another misconception is you can rough them up with sandpaper. Yes in the 1960s but not modern pads.
This is based on my experiences of ‘brake fade” working in High Performance Automotive for 40 years.
Quality pads are absolutely key to quality brakes. (Disc or drum)
Clemmo
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Northernraider
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Yes the discs were a bit rusty and pitted when I got the van due to it sitting. The pads were cracked so I replaced the pads and cleaned the discs up a bit. They look a lot cleaner now as I've done 3000 miles since. My understanding was that there was more prolonged braking on the hills and that was why people were suggesting the master cylinder was leaking. To be honest the van doesn't take a lot to stop it on the flat or uphill obviously but on downhills it does .
As said I'll get a better idea when I get the wheels off of it again and strip the brakes down to see whats what. I did free up all the calipers grease the sliders etc when I fitted the new pads but I'll check all that again . It was comline pads
I fitted which aren't the top brand but are a reputable manufacturer.
I've just been out with the dogs and I can still smell the brakes on this from earlier . More so on the left side than the right
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What is the name of the paint garage Tam? Is it Hassans Garage?, they seem to get the best overall reviews on the quality of their work from reading Google.
I also watched the Ed China video on changing disks & pads, he sure does cover everything step by step, with emphasis on cleaning and greasing everything properly, like the calliper sliders, even the pads at the ends where they sit in the clips. I must own up to have never heard of "Rubber Grease" for the slider bolts, grease that does not react with rubber.
I have never bought "brake grease" either that apparently doesn't react causing corrosion between the different metals of the retaining clips and the brake pads. I will take a lot more time on each corner next time I do a brake service, which will be this spring as my disks have rusted whilst sat in the drive too long due to ill health.
As for advice on choosing the "Best Brake Pads" how would we know which are "The Best" as they are mostly premium brands that we easily recognise over the years. I appreciate some ay have a reputation for being harder or softer, but surely the only way of knowing which are the best is unfortunately trial & error, or trusting any relevant reviews. I do know that The Fiat Pads fitted from new in our van are the worst I have ever experienced and looking forward to changing them...to what brand?..hell knows at the moment.
Tam, I think you changed your brake pads all round whilst you were at Uncle Garys Place?, if not then thats gotta worth doing, but making sure the callipers are not sticking & the pads can slide freely would be my 1st goal along with new brake pads. Fitting a new Brake Master cylinder is also a step worth taking in eliminating the whole braking issue you have experienced.
All The Best.
LES
I also watched the Ed China video on changing disks & pads, he sure does cover everything step by step, with emphasis on cleaning and greasing everything properly, like the calliper sliders, even the pads at the ends where they sit in the clips. I must own up to have never heard of "Rubber Grease" for the slider bolts, grease that does not react with rubber.
I have never bought "brake grease" either that apparently doesn't react causing corrosion between the different metals of the retaining clips and the brake pads. I will take a lot more time on each corner next time I do a brake service, which will be this spring as my disks have rusted whilst sat in the drive too long due to ill health.
As for advice on choosing the "Best Brake Pads" how would we know which are "The Best" as they are mostly premium brands that we easily recognise over the years. I appreciate some ay have a reputation for being harder or softer, but surely the only way of knowing which are the best is unfortunately trial & error, or trusting any relevant reviews. I do know that The Fiat Pads fitted from new in our van are the worst I have ever experienced and looking forward to changing them...to what brand?..hell knows at the moment.
Tam, I think you changed your brake pads all round whilst you were at Uncle Garys Place?, if not then thats gotta worth doing, but making sure the callipers are not sticking & the pads can slide freely would be my 1st goal along with new brake pads. Fitting a new Brake Master cylinder is also a step worth taking in eliminating the whole braking issue you have experienced.
All The Best.
LES
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Northernraider
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I'm at garage tafroute momo and said 's place as I followed them on Instagram for a few years. Looking on Google hassans place is where garage tafroute used to be before they built this new place. ...momo and said have the best reviews.
As for the brakes I did all the calipers , sliders etc when I fitted the new pads.
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I think you ay well have the answer there
Its torque you need to climb hills, the 3 litre Iveco is an excellent engine but its been "developed" a long way beyond its original design and then asked to carry ever larger and heavier bodies.They certainly don’t like downhill running…. I hate driving mine down steep hills.
Going up, it’s just power to mass… 7T+ for mine and 200 ponies is not a great equation …
There's a saying in the racing fraternity - Torque wins races but horsepower sells.
That would suggest that there is something not happening correctly on the right side.
The load sensing valves are pretty prone to seizing up anyway but more so on a motorhome because the load is more constant, maybe thats what the guy at Agadir was looking at?
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Northernraider
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The weird thing being when I stopped to let them cool down i felt the hub caps on front wheels and the lhs was OK but rhs was very hot. I didn't feel the rear.
the numpty in agadir was trying to see a rear wheel cylinder apparently. ...
I've been under and looked at the load valve myself just the other week and it looks fine but no idea if it's working correctly as it's a type I've not seen before and does seem to tie in with the rear airbags somehow . I'll get pics of that later.
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Tam of your having the wheels off and the pads out why not put a new set of pads in all round I still think.its the pad material iss too hard and if you keep the old pads and im wrong you havnt lost anything because you will need more pads in future.
Mikey RV
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The more posts I read about the brakes here and I am no expert apart from knowing we all need good brakes on our campers, the more I feel it’s not anything other than the pads because the brakes are good on anything other than going down hill for long periods of time and with a lot of weight behind them. Just my thoughts.Hope you get it sorted soon Tam.
JockandRita
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Sorry, but that's not my experience with ours, having climbed out the Tarn Gorge twice since taking ownership, though I have to admit that she has been chipped.
Same symptoms as ours last year with loss of turbo boost pressure, ie, would happily rev her arse off when not under load.
An absolute fortune Paul.
And having heard similar comments from others over the years, it has put us off from taking either of our well maintained and cherished MHs to Morocco. The sh1t roads in the UK are bad enough, without going all the way to Morocco to experience worse.
A fellow MH'er visited Morocco in his brand spanking new Hobby MH, and regretted it from day one of arriving.
Another MH'er did a tour of Morocco, and had to completly change his front wheel bearings as a result of dust and sand ingress.
Good luck getting sorted where you are Tam.
Jock.
MichaelT
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So do they do the painting outside?
Yes ours absolutely flies up the steepest of hills Jock in 5th, also been chipped, but ours are both the slightly later 3 litre chain whereas Tams is a 2.8 belt driven.Sorry, but that's not my experience with ours, having climbed out the Tarn Gorge twice since taking ownership, though I have to admit that she has been chipped.
Same symptoms as ours last year with loss of turbo boost pressure, ie, would happily rev her arse off when not under load.
An absolute fortune Paul.
And having heard similar comments from others over the years, it has put us off from taking either of our well maintained and cherished MHs to Morocco. The sh1t roads in the UK are bad enough, without going all the way to Morocco to experience worse.
A fellow MH'er visited Morocco in his brand spanking new Hobby MH, and regretted it from day one of arriving.
Another MH'er did a tour of Morocco, and had to completly change his front wheel bearings as a result of dust and sand ingress.
Good luck getting sorted where you are Tam.
Jock.
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Sorry my mistake, assuming the hot one isn't sticking then the question is is the cool one working properly?
Still could be a number of things but before you do anything else it could be worth making sure pistons are operating and calipers sliding properly, pads arent glazed and can you get any more air out?
A pressure bleeder would be handy, and I think you need to have the ignition on to bleed the Abs pump.
Tbf Jock Morocco has good and bad roads, a lot like UK, if you just want west coast beaches then you can drive down to Agadir area via Casablanca, Marrakech and Essaouira on Peages that are smoother than some uk motorways but the roads to Tafraoute are particularly bad thats why I cautioned against going up there with a braking problem.Sorry, but that's not my experience with ours, having climbed out the Tarn Gorge twice since taking ownership, though I have to admit that she has been chipped.
Same symptoms as ours last year with loss of turbo boost pressure, ie, would happily rev her arse off when not under load.
An absolute fortune Paul.
And having heard similar comments from others over the years, it has put us off from taking either of our well maintained and cherished MHs to Morocco. The sh1t roads in the UK are bad enough, without going all the way to Morocco to experience worse.
A fellow MH'er visited Morocco in his brand spanking new Hobby MH, and regretted it from day one of arriving.
Another MH'er did a tour of Morocco, and had to completly change his front wheel bearings as a result of dust and sand ingress.
Good luck getting sorted where you are Tam.
Jock.
The standard of driving is pretty poor, and you can do nothing about the dust other than clean it out afterwards.
But its remains about the best place to go in a Mh in the winter: weather is better, scenery is varied and you dont have to prebook anything. Tam has tried the other options, knew he had issues with Morocco but somehow hes back there!
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I'd try a flap wheel on the discs both sides.
That has reminded me. If it has been sitting for many years that could well be seized inside. This is usually due to condensation/water inside. When I removed mine after working out that the rear shoes didn't appear to be doing much it was rusted up inside & was jammed in a partially closed position. I had one on my last coach built that was .= you only have braking on the front depending on how it seizes. I had to remove & knock the guts out & run like that whilst awaiting a new one. worth having a good look at how worn the new rear pads are?
We're your rear hubs as hot as your fronts?
If the load senor on the rear axle is faulty could this cause your front brakes to be doing all the work & cause overheating/glazing of the front pads & poor performance. You will see if the pads are glazed when you strip it down.
I would get a brake test with her fully loaded & check to see if the rear axle is braking with her loaded. The van was probably empty during the mot. It could be the load sensor or master cylinder at fault.
I run a 2022 6 ton Iveco & the brakes are OK but I think anything over 5 ton should have a retarder.
Good luck getting it sorted, anything can be fixed & it will be something & nothing. It's just finding the bugger.
David
If the load senor on the rear axle is faulty could this cause your front brakes to be doing all the work & cause overheating/glazing of the front pads & poor performance. You will see if the pads are glazed when you strip it down.
I would get a brake test with her fully loaded & check to see if the rear axle is braking with her loaded. The van was probably empty during the mot. It could be the load sensor or master cylinder at fault.
I run a 2022 6 ton Iveco & the brakes are OK but I think anything over 5 ton should have a retarder.
Good luck getting it sorted, anything can be fixed & it will be something & nothing. It's just finding the bugger.
David
I wondered about this but discounted it because it must have had an mot, but thinking about it again, who actually got it mot'd?
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