Lenny's Modding the new Mini Gin Palace 2

[treblid]

To control the S+ on the fridge via the timer I've fitted in my panel. So when I have fully charged batteries and plenty of solar the fridge will run on 12v.

As an aside (sorry), why do new motorhomes still have 3 way refrigerators fitted? Our 12V only compressor fridge uses relatively little power.

 

[the1andonly]

Victron much better with Lithium & Votronic 430 had problems with Lithium.

Yes that was a few years ago Votronics responded relatively quickly with a new design. I dont think victron responded very quickly to problems with the 50A B2B (overheating?), Both problems resolved now I believe.

 

[Minxy]

As an aside (sorry), why do new motorhomes still have 3 way refrigerators fitted? Our 12V only compressor fridge uses relatively little power.

Many still prefer 3-way, me included, as you have 'redundancy' to some extent if one of the power sources plays up. Also a compressor is only good if you've got plenty of battery power and a way to charge the batteries back up which can be a problem in winter especially.

 

[the1andonly]

As an aside (sorry), why do new motorhomes still have 3 way refrigerators fitted? Our 12V only compressor fridge uses relatively little power.

I think the real question is why don't they make a dual compressor /gas fridge. sorry for interfering with thread Lenny HB

 

[Lenny HB]

As an aside (sorry), why do new motorhomes still have 3 way refrigerators fitted? Our 12V only compressor fridge uses relatively little power.

I prefer 3 way, most buyers don't have big Lithium banks and large amout of solar so a compressor fridge would make it impossible to stay off grid for weeks at a time, we often do 6 or 7 week trips and never use EHU, even with my big Lithium bank I think I would struggle.

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[Lenny HB]

Cables through.

 

[Lenny HB]

Fridge fans installed, top vent is a roof vent even if I could have fitted the fans there, there is no way to get the cables down with the slim fridge.
So they had to go behind the bottom vent drawing air in not ideal, also couldn't mount them on the grill as the winter cover goes inside.
Found some nice slim 15mm wide 92mm fans that have a good flow rate.

 

[bobnick]

Fridge fans installed, top vent is a roof vent even if I could have fitted the fans there, there is no way to get the cables down with the slim fridge.
So they had to go behind the bottom vent drawing air in not ideal, also couldn't mount them on the grill as the winter cover goes inside.
Found some nice slim 15mm wide 92mm fans that have a good flow rate.

View attachment 1029319

Lenny, is there anything original left in the van

 

[WESTY66]

Fridge fans installed, top vent is a roof vent even if I could have fitted the fans there, there is no way to get the cables down with the slim fridge.
So they had to go behind the bottom vent drawing air in not ideal, also couldn't mount them on the grill as the winter cover goes inside.
Found some nice slim 15mm wide 92mm fans that have a good flow rate.

View attachment 1029319

Have you had reason yet to think they’re needed? Just askin as I thought the new Dometic fridges were ok in the heat?

 

[Millcourt]

Lenny, is there anything original left in the van

Only Lenny it seems.

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[MichaelT]

Fridge fans installed, top vent is a roof vent even if I could have fitted the fans there, there is no way to get the cables down with the slim fridge.
So they had to go behind the bottom vent drawing air in not ideal, also couldn't mount them on the grill as the winter cover goes inside.
Found some nice slim 15mm wide 92mm fans that have a good flow rate.

View attachment 1029319

The dometic fan sits horizontal so pushing air upwards.

 

[Lenny HB]

Have you had reason yet to think they’re needed? Just askin as I thought the new Dometic fridges were ok in the heat?

It is better than the last one but not good enough.

The dometic fan sits horizontal so pushing air upwards.

Most cooling fans are more efficient drawing air out of a cabinet.

 

[MichaelT]

It is better than the last one but not good enough.

Most cooling fans are more efficient drawing air out of a cabinet.

Yes pointing up so it pushes it up the chimney out the roof vent.

 

[MichaelT]

Have you had reason yet to think they’re needed? Just askin as I thought the new Dometic fridges were ok in the heat?

Yes our series 10 is very good probably helped by the fact the vent is on the roof so I'm holding off fans for now.

 

[Lenny HB]

Yes pointing up so it pushes it up the chimney out the roof vent.

Not as efficient as pulling it out.

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[MichaelT]

But it does push it out if horizontal above and uses natural physics (as hot air rises) to assist and push air up and out the top vent instead of trying to bend it sideways.

 

[Lenny HB]

I give up, you don't understand the design of equipment cooling fans.

 

[MichaelT]

I give up, you don't understand the design of equipment cooling fans.

I do but you are trying to pull heat sideways wheras the natural way is for it to rise so if the fan sucks upwards and pushes it out of the roof vent as designed surely got to be better?

 

[Lenny HB]

give it a rest will you.

 

[bigtwin]

The dometic fan sits horizontal so pushing air upwards.

It’s effectiveness will be governed by where it is positioned. The orientation may, or may not, be the key.

Most cooling fans are more efficient drawing air out of a cabinet.

Cooling fans are most efficient just before the low pressure side and just after the high pressure side. Without ducting, the displaced air will be replaced by air from the path of least resistance.

Yes pointing up so it pushes it up the chimney out the roof vent.

See my earlier response to your comment.

Not as efficient as pulling it out.

Perhaps, perhaps not. It will certainly exhaust air from the cavity relatively efficiently but that doesn't mean that the cooling will be maximised. Remember the displaced air will be replaced with air taken from the path of least resistance and that won’t necessarily be by air moved over the radiating fins.

But it does push it out if horizontal above and uses natural physics (as hot air rises) to assist and push air up and out the top vent instead of trying to bend it sideways.

That will certainly help but you need to remember what the overall objective is; that is, to move air, ideally cool air, over the radiating fins. Consequently, the fans are best placed just under the radiating fins to move the maximum volume of air over the fins.

I give up, you don't understand the design of equipment cooling fans.

Can you help us better understand where you’re coming from?

I do but you are trying to pull heat sideways wheras the natural way is for it to rise so if the fan sucks upwards and pushes it out of the roof vent as designed surely got to be better?

If the objective is to exhaust air from the rear fridge cavity then the closer the fan is to the exhuast duct the better. However, is that the objective?

give it a rest will you.

A bit harsh.

It is my view that the statements that you both make are correct but are both missing the key objective of fitting fans in the first place, that is, to maximise the flow of cooling air over the radiating fins.

Ian

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[Lenny HB]

For Fiddlesticks sake shut up about flecking fans.

 

[Just smiffy]

For Fiddlesticks sake shut up about flecking fans.

You started it….

 

[AdrianChen]

For Fiddlesticks sake shut up about flecking fans.

But I'm a fan of all your mods,

 

[bigtwin]

For Fiddlesticks sake shut up about flecking fans.

Having a bad day are we?

Ian

 

[AdrianChen]

.

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[Lenny HB]

All went pants today.
Connected up my panel, temperature controller for fan no work, it's got power but doesn’t turn on.

S+ signal is coming out of my panel but the fridge is not changing to 12v, probably a connection I used alarm cable not the best stuff to connect to and I was doing it in the freezing cold yesterday.
Also having problems programming the shunt relay.

One thing works I can see the Multiplus on the Raspberry Pi that is via a Victron Mk3 Dongle but I can't see any of my other Victron gear.
I'm thinking maybe the UART/USB hub can't drive a 5m USB cable.
Just thinking about it while typing, led was coming on when the USB cable is plugged in but none of the data LED's on the optical drivers were flashing so possibly too much volt drop over the cable to power the hub.

The Multiplus Dongle is connected via a 5m USB extention cable, I'll try connecting via that.
If that works it will be another day getting another cable through.
If not even worse I'll have to extend the 3 UART serial cables and mount the hub behind my panel.

 

[WESTY66]

All went pants today.
Connected up my panel, temperature controller for fan no work, it's got power but doesn’t turn on.

S+ signal is coming out of my panel but the fridge is not changing to 12v, probably a connection I used alarm cable not the best stuff to connect to and I was doing it in the freezing cold yesterday.
Also having problems programming the shunt relay.

One thing works I can see the Multiplus on the Raspberry Pi that is via a Victron Mk3 Dongle but I can't see any of my other Victron gear.
I'm thinking maybe the UART/USB hub can't drive a 5m USB cable.
Just thinking about it while typing, led was coming on when the USB cable is plugged in but none of the data LED's on the optical drivers were flashing so possibly too much volt drop over the cable to power the hub.

The Multiplus Dongle is connected via a 5m USB extention cable, I'll try connecting via that.
If that works it will be another day getting another cable through.
If not even worse I'll have to extend the 3 UART serial cables and mount the hub behind my panel.

I’m exhausted just reading that let alone understanding any of it
Hope you get it working soon

 

[G-RMPS]

Yes our series 10 is very good probably helped by the fact the vent is on the roof so I'm holding off fans for now.

I’m exhausted just reading that let alone understanding any of it
Hope you get it working soon

I tried to drive a GoPro camera mounted on my aircraft wingtip from a “brick” mounted in the cockpit via a 5m USB cable. Not ideal. The camera sometimes dropped out (not literally!) and I had no way of knowing until I landed - having not filmed what I intended.

 

[KASPAR]

All went pants today.
Connected up my panel, temperature controller for fan no work, it's got power but doesn’t turn on.

S+ signal is coming out of my panel but the fridge is not changing to 12v, probably a connection I used alarm cable not the best stuff to connect to and I was doing it in the freezing cold yesterday.
Also having problems programming the shunt relay.

One thing works I can see the Multiplus on the Raspberry Pi that is via a Victron Mk3 Dongle but I can't see any of my other Victron gear.
I'm thinking maybe the UART/USB hub can't drive a 5m USB cable.
Just thinking about it while typing, led was coming on when the USB cable is plugged in but none of the data LED's on the optical drivers were flashing so possibly too much volt drop over the cable to power the hub.

The Multiplus Dongle is connected via a 5m USB extention cable, I'll try connecting via that.
If that works it will be another day getting another cable through.
If not even worse I'll have to extend the 3 UART serial cables and mount the hub behind my panel.

Were you not taught from young not to fix wot ain't broken?

 

[MichaelT]

I’m exhausted just reading that let alone understanding any of it
Hope you get it working soon

Same here but my Bluetooth app still works

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