What have you fixed on your motorhome this week?

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Older Hymer’s often seem to suffer with peeling paint, ours was no exception, however being a painter I really should of fixed this a long time ago. I could of course excuse myself under the plumbers with leaking taps rule, but yesterday with help from a a colleague we got the job done.
 
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I’ve just successfully completed a change of drawer handles (x3).

Original chrome plated drawer handles had started to bubble up with corrosion despite the MH being just 12 months old when the problem was reported under warranty.

No problems with getting new handles under warranty, Travelworld sent them in the post to me and I just have to post the old ones back. They did offer that I could call in and get them fitted but I’m not going down their way for some time.

Biggest surprise was that it was a 5 minute job that took 5 minutes. But then I dropped the mini tool box getting out of MH and spent 15 minutes collecting small sockets, screwdrivers, screws, fuses and so on from the driveway. (n)
 
I set to today to renovate the lower hinge on the Habitation door of our Hobby 600.
It had started to suffer the usual problem of Aluminium fixtures exposed to wind, rain snow, etc. The paint was 'bubbling' and, as it was right beside the Hab Door (well it would be wouldn't it???) it was starting to get under my skin.
As usual, I forgot to take a photo of the manky, (tech term) hinge prior to removal BUT this time, I did manage to take a pic. before I attacked it with a sander.

But, before I removed said hinge, and not wishing to remove the door itself, I rigged up a Jerry built jig to prevent the whole of the weight of door being held on the upper hinge and also prevent the door swinging. This, I figured, if it happened, could result in the upper hinge breaking and I've already been told that they are almost unobtainable.
Pic 1 and Pic 2 shows the Jig. I used suitable wood on top of thin plastic sheeting to get the correct height under the door and two pieces of wood on the inside and outside surface of the door to prevent swinging movement. You can also see a jack which supported the weight of the door when the bottom hinge was removed. I apologise for the photos of the jig being out of synch. Computer played up.

Pic 3 shows the original state of the hinge.

Pic 4 shows the repainted hinge back on the Van and Pic 5 shows a close up of the hinge. Sorry the last pic isn't up to scratch. I must have been shaking with pleasure!!!
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Photo showing the manky state of the hinge as removed.
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Picture of the Hinge after grinding off the original paint with a triangular sander and then applying four coats of etch primer in grey followed by about five/six coats of Grey Rim Paint from Lidl. The match of colour between top and bottom hinges is indiscernible.
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Majestic 125 2013.

There were no USB sockets in the hab area of our van so I fitted a couple. Turned out to be pretty simple. I had been using a USB adapter plugged into a 12 Volt socket but I was never happy with that arrangement and it also meant that I could not charge things when the TV was running on 12 Volts.

The light near the fixed bed was hard to reach so I have fitted another switch in what I hope is a more convenient location. Time will tell. Again it was quite simple once I got started.
 
Not really fixed but replaced! Found a suitable remnant in a local carpet store and £29 later have enough for two sets of carpets for hab area. Bound edges with £3.50’s worth of cloth tape, staples and the hot glue gun. Certainly not a perfect fitted carpet but pleased with an afternoons work!
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Used “Ruggies” grippers to keep the step mat still without messing around with poppers.
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More Ruggies for ends of the step area but pleased with how it sits on the ali edge strip, didn’t really want to resort to double sided tape.
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Just bound the far end, went for the fully fitted approach in the main area to keep it stable. No need to fit a piece for the saloon area we always leave the bed made up in the winter.
Now no dirty shoes please!
 
Auto window stays have been playing up for ages.
They would latch and stay latched meaning I would have to poke a skewer in the end to release the plastic tag.
Tried everything to get them to work. Taking them apart and reassembling to no avail.
Looked at replacements but Fendt/ Hobby prices were 95 euros a pair and the original style not available.
Looked at other designs but as they attach to the window it was difficult to find the correct pattern.
Decided to modify them.
Removed from the van.
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First I drilled ot the stop tag on the back so that I could take them apart.
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Next I drilled a hole at the top end.
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Inserted a small bolt with nut attached in the hole.
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Araldited the nut in place and when set removed the bolt.
I sourced some window stay nobs from a local caravan parts shop.
Screwe in and glued the bolt into the knob and then cut the end off.
Also cut a small bolt to size to act as a stop.
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Reassembled the two parts and araldited the small bolt in place as a stop.
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The finished job with the new knob in place.
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In situ and working. Total cost for each strut £2-20
 
Crazylegs said:
View attachment 252441 View attachment 252442 View attachment 252444 Older Hymer’s often seem to suffer with peeling paint, ours was no exception, however being a painter I really should of fixed this a long time ago. I could of course excuse myself under the plumbers with leaking taps rule, but yesterday with help from a a colleague we got the job done.
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Oh god , that's a job i'm gonna have to tackle shortly . Trouble is i got some damage there too , from earlier in the year , but it really is getting scruffy . Water is getting under the paint and lifting it off in big chunks now , however i don't think this is the first time it's had some attention .

Really nice job , my friend , well worth the effort .

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What have you fixed on your motorhome this week? sorry i dont understand the question my van is german:imoutahere:
 
Leisure battery warning kept screaming at me, no power, Oh Please!! only 6 months old. Being on EHU, not bothered until I got home. Checked with mutlimeter @ 13v, OK. Checked connections, negative terminal cable slack as fook; tightened up, all good in the hood (y). Now I just have to find out why the Satellite dish will not raise. Maxview tech guy says it is more than likely a loose connection due to vibration; you would think they would build in some strain relief right, he doubts it. I need to get checking tonight.
 
With the colder weather coming and the roof vents and blinds offering bugger all in the way of insulation, I have made some insulation pads to fit into the roof vent apertures by gluing together layers of the silver foil bubble rap insulation and then cutting to size to fit. As well as keeping the heat in, they should also reflect the heat out in summer and add some noise insulation.

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Next on the list was to get some decent lighting in the van wardrobe.
I had fitted some cheap Chinese battery operated PIR LED units in there but they were not a lot of cop and ate batteries.
While I had the loo out fitting the Thetford vent kit, I piggy backed a cable off the loo power feed and ran it under the van around to the wardrobe. With the cable now in the wardrobe, I hooked it up to a length of LED ribbon stuck above the wardrobe doors along with magnetic contacts to switch the lights on and off as the wardrobe doors are opened and closed.

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Two on Tour said:
With the colder weather coming and the roof vents and blinds offering bugger all in the way of insulation, I have made some insulation pads to fit into the roof vent apertures by gluing together layers of the silver foil bubble rap insulation and then cutting to size to fit. As well as keeping the heat in, they should also reflect the heat out in summer and add some noise insulation.

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Next on the list was to get some decent lighting in the van wardrobe.
I had fitted some cheap Chinese battery operated PIR LED units in there but they were not a lot of cop and ate batteries.
While I had the loo out fitting the Thetford vent kit, I piggy backed a cable off the loo power feed and ran it under the van around to the wardrobe. With the cable now in the wardrobe, I hooked it up to a length of LED ribbon stuck above the wardrobe doors along with magnetic contacts to switch the lights on and off as the wardrobe doors are opened and closed.

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ive got a couple off dark cupboards and awaiting chinese hinge lights
 
My church cable snaped phones the RAC waited therty min for them to answer
Finally get through takes my member no my contact no and name tells him the problem
Abut five min explaning whare we are then he just hangs up
I Wat and I Wat for them to call back
Nothing
So I use lyns phone to call them so thay still have a open line to call me back
I give up in the end and fix it my shelf
The second time thay have let me down
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Not quite a repair: my van is back to full strength after the fridge & windscreen repairs. Whist the fridge was out I asked the Dometic Service Centre to take off the oven (I'd already disconnected the gas & 12v) which they did. (Anyone want a TechTower oven?). So I started a few days ago to prepare the area vacated by the oven for a microwave. This meant removing the fridge vents so I could see the mains supply for the fridge. Then I spotted the tangle of split flexible conduits attached to the wall to the LHS rear of the fridge - five x 1" diameter in all. So I thought I'd investigate the need for them. One was pretty full of wires, one had three wires inside, the others had two wires in each. Basically five conduits that could be replaced by two. Behind the conduits was a loose, unprotected loom with maybe ten wires. All were going from and to the same place. I got rid of all the conduit and began to untangle the wires so I could zip tie them into bundles according to their function. As they were all tangled & couldn't be separated I traced them to the area above the entrance door that has the remote DT220C panel, the bed control, the fridge fan control, a remote switch for the gas solenoid, and the Alde control panel. Then by disconnecting from whatever they fed I could pull them back, re-bundle, then reconnect. I can then use a single piece of plastic trunking to contain them behind the fridge and hide excessive wire for the Alde and gas switch that can't easily be cut to shorten. Commoning methods were either very large single choc blocks or the biggest soldered splices I've ever seen so more work there. Five days into it and after maybe another day I'll start on the microwave installation.
 
Not so much fixed but decided the area by the hab door was wasted space .. their attempt at a shelf or two was cosmetic and the woodwork was there at best to house the step and light switches..(chausson 620 )
My step only operates when the control panel is on so you have to climb in to switch on before you can operate the step and it doesnt auto retract, which is a feature id prefere..
Anyway... pulled it all out, rewired the step with a 12v supply independant of control panel and provided an engine run relay to auto retract it... (thats after a blown fuse or two :LOL: and the step drive shaft giving up:(, but think ive got a spare somewhere(y).. )
Wiring finished .and all looks good on that side..
Now to put some storage back into the space..and reinstate the switches etc
Andy..

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Not fixed but behind the front cover under the passenger seat I fitted a ciggy lighter socket on a lead to the solar controller - the socket can be retrieved when needed and will allow me to plug in a portable solar panel in case we need extra input when away on holiday due to our all-electric fridge.

Also replaced the lift up worktop flap with a smaller wooden one (chopping board) with a curved corner to make it easier to get in/out of the camper with it in use, also made a plastic chopping board cover for it.
 
Have started to install our USB Port today. I have purchased a "rocker switch size" one. So no drilling and stuff through the dash, just remove a blank and install.
Because , as some one has already posted I did not want to have the thing "shining brightly" all blooming night, I have installed a switch in the loom to turn the bloody thing off!
So far I have wired everything together, fitted the port and the switch, identified the power source , still looking for an suitable earth.
But I must confess, it was such a crap day today, wind howling and rain lashing down, and the fact that I was already feeling a bit tetchy and teasey I jacked it in.
So! only have to connect the bloody thing up now, when I lighten up a bit. Been a right grouch today!
 
rangitira said:
Started to install our USB Port today. I have purchased a "rocker switch" one. So no drilling and stuff through the dash, just remove a blank and install.
Because , as some one has already posted I did not want to have the thing "shining brightly" all blooming night, I am have installed a switch in the loom to turn the bloody thing off!
So far I have wired everything together, fitted the port and the switch, identified the power source , still looking for an suitable earth.
But I must confess, it was such a crap day today, wind howling and rain lashing down, and the fact that I was already feeling a bit tetchy and teasey I jacked it in.
So! only have to connect the bloody thing up now, when I lighten up a bit. Been a right grouch today!
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Nice one John ...... not missing the weather though.....:D
 
Greetings peeps.

Hab door retaining latch. Replaced.☑️

Annoying white plastic holding clips for Seitz window blinds. 3 blinds, 6 clips replaced.☑️

X6 Draft excluders also replaced on the above.☑️

Leisure battery connected to intelligent charger for some loving.☑️

Putting off winding the awning out as it’s not been touched in 5 years!!!!❌

You all enjoy your day now

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