We are wandering again in Spain and Portugal

[Lenny HB]

We decided to pop down the road to a place recommended by Lenny HB and seconded by varaizian called Fox do Arelho. Fabulous aire or camper stop on a saltwater lagoon, the largest in Europe apparently. The aire is €6 (I think extra for electric) and has toilets and showers. Both are fairly rudimentary, but on the other hand this is the view from our windscreen. What more can you ask for at that price.

View attachment 958948

There is miles of sand here so we walked to the sea over the large dunes and watched the waves crash in. It has been mostly cloudy today but still very warm. But as we sat on the sand the sun came out for an hour or so.

View attachment 958949View attachment 958952

We walked back to the motorhome and put our chairs on the sand in front of the van to drink tea and read our books. We are parked next to the Morelo Palace, belonging to a friendly German couple who go away for 4-6 months at a time. There is a small car in the back. Remember those days when we could go anywhere in Europe for more than 90 days.

View attachment 958953

How we have gone without seeing flamingos in the wild before I don't know, they are everywhere, including the lagoon here. What's more they make a lot of noise!

A few days ago we bought some frozen sardines and we decided tonight is the night (while we have access to someone else's toilets). We managed to polish them all off too.

View attachment 958955

We have to decide where to go tomorrow, we have one more night before we are due in Porto. We had intended to head to Tomar, but might just stay here. Would we be missing anything in Tomar?

You mentions frozen fish I love the freezers in Lidl in Spain & Portugal where they sell lose shellfish, I always get a shock at the checkout when they weigh it and the price comes up. Often take a freezer full home.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

You mentions frozen fish I love the freezers in Lidl in Spain & Portugal where they sell lose shellfish, I always get a shock at the checkout when they weigh it and the price comes up. Often take a freezer full home.

Yes the frozen fish is fabulous. Given we are an island nation I don’t know we haven’t got anything similar.

 

[Just smiffy]

We decided to pop down the road to a place recommended by Lenny HB and seconded by varaizian called Fox do Arelho. Fabulous aire or camper stop on a saltwater lagoon, the largest in Europe apparently. The aire is €6 (I think extra for electric) and has toilets and showers. Both are fairly rudimentary, but on the other hand this is the view from our windscreen. What more can you ask for at that price.

View attachment 958948

There is miles of sand here so we walked to the sea over the large dunes and watched the waves crash in. It has been mostly cloudy today but still very warm. But as we sat on the sand the sun came out for an hour or so.

View attachment 958949View attachment 958952

We walked back to the motorhome and put our chairs on the sand in front of the van to drink tea and read our books. We are parked next to the Morelo Palace, belonging to a friendly German couple who go away for 4-6 months at a time. There is a small car in the back. Remember those days when we could go anywhere in Europe for more than 90 days.

View attachment 958953

How we have gone without seeing flamingos in the wild before I don't know, they are everywhere, including the lagoon here. What's more they make a lot of noise!

A few days ago we bought some frozen sardines and we decided tonight is the night (while we have access to someone else's toilets). We managed to polish them all off too.

View attachment 958955

We have to decide where to go tomorrow, we have one more night before we are due in Porto. We had intended to head to Tomar, but might just stay here. Would we be missing anything in Tomar?

One of my favourite places….

 

[Wanders from Glos]

One of my favourite places….

Yes it’s gone onto our list of places we would come back to.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

This morning the weather was what we have come to think of as Portuguese rain. Very fine misty stuff a bit like damping, it gets you a bit wet but it stays so hot you can't wear a waterproof, because you will get just as wet from being too hot. None of your proper cold British rain. Anyway, we decided there was no point staying by the beach much as we liked it at Foz do Arelho so we headed to Tomar, after the obligatory stop for coffee at a supermarket. Supermarket breakfasts are so cheap here, today two coffees and a doughnut was €2.30.

We are now at the aire in Tomar. It is an old municipal campsite, a bit run down but free with services and lots of space to spread out. A bit sad really there are quite a few vehicles here so a shame they couldn't make it pay. Still a great free stopover for us and very near the old town.

It's largely been a grey day with occasional Portuguese rain but not enough to stop a bit of touristing. The approach to the town from the aire is over the old bridge and weir. The narrow streets like many in Portugal are cobbled and pleasant.

The main square in front of the newly renovated cathedral is a relaxing place to sit and people watch, although there didn't seem to be many about.

The main attraction in Tomar is the Castle and Convento do Cristo built by the Knights Templar in the C12th. Every Portuguese city, town and village seems to have a stunning hilltop castle and this one is no exception. The convent (which housed monks) is built into the side of the castle and the whole thing creates a dramatic effect. The styling on the convent is very strange, almost Guadiesque, except it was done 500 years earlier. We think the style is called Manueline, but can't be sure, whatever it was definitely weird and reminded us of the Sagrada Familia. Lots of pictures to follow I'm afraid.

Inside the convent the walls were often tiled in the Portuguese style, very obviously old and hand painted. We are not great fans of the inside of churches, they all look similar we find but the chapel here is incredible. There is a centre piece with the usual saints and crosses. However very inch is painted, most of it from 500 years ago in a couple of cases even older. It gives a feel for what churches in the UK must have been like before the reformation, although perhaps not quite as dramatic as this one.

After it was time for coffee and pastel de nata (€4 in total) then back to the van. Tonight we are having steak haché from a supermarket called Continente which we had a week or two ago and thought were superb. Porto tomorrow and a palpitations of the wallet due to an expensive campsite.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[jumar]

This morning the weather was what we have come to think of as Portuguese rain. Very fine misty stuff a bit like damping, it gets you a bit wet but it stays so hot you can't wear a waterproof, because you will get just as wet from being too hot. None of your proper cold British rain. Anyway, we decided there was no point staying by the beach much as we liked it at Foz do Arelho so we headed to Tomar, after the obligatory stop for coffee at a supermarket. Supermarket breakfasts are so cheap here, today two coffees and a doughnut was €2.30.

We are now at the aire in Tomar. It is an old municipal campsite, a bit run down but free with services and lots of space to spread out. A bit sad really there are quite a few vehicles here so a shame they couldn't make it pay. Still a great free stopover for us and very near the old town.

View attachment 959535

It's largely been a grey day with occasional Portuguese rain but not enough to stop a bit of touristing. The approach to the town from the aire is over the old bridge and weir. The narrow streets like many in Portugal are cobbled and pleasant.

View attachment 959537View attachment 959538

The main square in front of the newly renovated cathedral is a relaxing place to sit and people watch, although there didn't seem to be many about.

View attachment 959541

The main attraction in Tomar is the Castle and Convento do Cristo built by the Knights Templar in the C12th. Every Portuguese city, town and village seems to have a stunning hilltop castle and this one is no exception. The convent (which housed monks) is built into the side of the castle and the whole thing creates a dramatic effect. The styling on the convent is very strange, almost Guadiesque, except it was done 500 years earlier. We think the style is called Manueline, but can't be sure, whatever it was definitely weird and reminded us of the Sagrada Familia. Lots of pictures to follow I'm afraid.

View attachment 959547View attachment 959548View attachment 959549View attachment 959550

Inside the convent the walls were often tiled in the Portuguese style, very obviously old and hand painted. We are not great fans of the inside of churches, they all look similar we find but the chapel here is incredible. There is a centre piece with the usual saints and crosses. However very inch is painted, most of it from 500 years ago in a couple of cases even older. It gives a feel for what churches in the UK must have been like before the reformation, although perhaps not quite as dramatic as this one.

View attachment 959563View attachment 959564View attachment 959566

After it was time for coffee and pastel de nata (€4 in total) then back to the van. Tonight we are having steak haché from a supermarket called Continente which we had a week or two ago and thought were superb. Porto tomorrow and a palpitations of the wallet due to an expensive campsite.

View attachment 959570

Like Tomar...went there over 24 years ago...some fond memories...stayed when campsite was still operating, over night price was about what you paid for your breakfasts..
...

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Like Tomar...went there over 24 years ago...some fond memories...stayed when campsite was still operating, over night price was about what you paid for your breakfasts..
...

No wonder it closed

 

[varaizian]

This morning the weather was what we have come to think of as Portuguese rain. Very fine misty stuff a bit like damping, it gets you a bit wet but it stays so hot you can't wear a waterproof, because you will get just as wet from being too hot. None of your proper cold British rain. Anyway, we decided there was no point staying by the beach much as we liked it at Foz do Arelho so we headed to Tomar, after the obligatory stop for coffee at a supermarket. Supermarket breakfasts are so cheap here, today two coffees and a doughnut was €2.30.

We are now at the aire in Tomar. It is an old municipal campsite, a bit run down but free with services and lots of space to spread out. A bit sad really there are quite a few vehicles here so a shame they couldn't make it pay. Still a great free stopover for us and very near the old town.

View attachment 959535

It's largely been a grey day with occasional Portuguese rain but not enough to stop a bit of touristing. The approach to the town from the aire is over the old bridge and weir. The narrow streets like many in Portugal are cobbled and pleasant.

View attachment 959537View attachment 959538

The main square in front of the newly renovated cathedral is a relaxing place to sit and people watch, although there didn't seem to be many about.

View attachment 959541

The main attraction in Tomar is the Castle and Convento do Cristo built by the Knights Templar in the C12th. Every Portuguese city, town and village seems to have a stunning hilltop castle and this one is no exception. The convent (which housed monks) is built into the side of the castle and the whole thing creates a dramatic effect. The styling on the convent is very strange, almost Guadiesque, except it was done 500 years earlier. We think the style is called Manueline, but can't be sure, whatever it was definitely weird and reminded us of the Sagrada Familia. Lots of pictures to follow I'm afraid.

View attachment 959547View attachment 959548View attachment 959549View attachment 959550

Inside the convent the walls were often tiled in the Portuguese style, very obviously old and hand painted. We are not great fans of the inside of churches, they all look similar we find but the chapel here is incredible. There is a centre piece with the usual saints and crosses. However very inch is painted, most of it from 500 years ago in a couple of cases even older. It gives a feel for what churches in the UK must have been like before the reformation, although perhaps not quite as dramatic as this one.

View attachment 959563View attachment 959564View attachment 959566

After it was time for coffee and pastel de nata (€4 in total) then back to the van. Tonight we are having steak haché from a supermarket called Continente which we had a week or two ago and thought were superb. Porto tomorrow and a palpitations of the wallet due to an expensive campsite.

View attachment 959570

Fabulous! And I'm not remotely religious.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

The morning began with Portuguese rain and it stayed like it pretty much all day. We are now in Porto at the Orbitur campsite just outside in Canidelo. This is our most expensive stay by far, chosen so we can charge some kit and have easy access our bikes to Porto. In fact it is costing almost as much as all the other places we have stayed put together (a bit of an exaggeration but not much). To be fair it achieves those two things well, the cycle in is flat and on bike lanes or quiet roads. But, oh it's an awful place, scruffy, muddy uneven pitches, dirty sanitary facilities without soap, unhelpful reception and €35 per night plus tourist taxes. Can't wait until we have lithium! It does have a really nice pool, but the weather isn't up to it unfortunately.

The drive here was spectacular even in the rain. When we got to Viseau, where we got turned off the motorway all those weeks ago due to forest fires, the damage was really shocking. There were miles of burned out forest on both sides and some road signs were half melted. We came closer to the fires than we realised when we saw them on the hills.

Anyway, once I had managed to overcome my palpitations of the wallet at the rip off this site represents we got the bikes out and cycled in. The first part of the path goes along the coast and is I suspect quite spectacular, although the mist reduced it somewhat. The path then turns down the River Douro and enters Porto. The views across the river were limited unfortunately but it was a nice ride.

We got to the main bridge and as if by magic the fog lifted and the views seemed all the better for their sudden appearance. The atmosphere was fantastic, I think partly because Manchester United were playing Porto later that night. The fans were making a lot of noise, to the bemusement of American tourists. I was waiting for one of them to go and ask them token the noise down.

My food intolerances that developed after illness this January mean I don't get on with anything grape based so for me a port tasting was out, despite how much I love wine and port. Instead we had a beer and studied the lonely planet guide. This has never let us down for suggestions of good, local and quirky restaurants to eat at, neither in Portugal nor in other countries. Today was no exception, after a twenty minute walk we found a recommended restaurant full of Portuguese and tourists. The television was on and everything had to stop for important moments.

No pictures of the food, but we both had vegetable soup starter, Claire had white fish with rice and I had salted cod in onions which was superb. Then we shared a slice of almond tart. With water, a half carafe of red wine (Claire), beer (me) and espresso (both of us) the bill was €37, delayed because Porto had scored.

We walked back through the darkened streets where there was still a great buzz. This is a lively and vibrant city also quite stylish, to our surprise we were expecting a bit more tourist bling and a bit more run down.

The cycle back was very dark and very wet, but quite good fun hearing the waves crashing in and wondering where we were. I kept reminding myself to keep the river or sea on my right and we had to come to the camp site. It's not the quietest place but then it is a city. There is the obligatory Portuguese barking dog and this morning we realised we are on the flight path. Did I mention how much it is costing?

 

[Wanders from Glos]

.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Peavy]

I'm curious, which restaurant was that?

 

[Peavy]

Duplicate post, this server update is messing up

 

[berni109]

Think we stayed in that self same shite campsite.
Why don't they tidy it up a bit - but then I know - clean and tidy equals less profit.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Think we stayed in that self same shite campsite.
Why don't they tidy it up a bit - but then I know - clean and tidy equals less profit.

Exactly, it could be fabulous. Close to Porto and a lovely beach. It just needs some tlc.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

I'm curious, which restaurant was that?

It was called O Buraco, on Rua do Bolhao.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Spara4042]

Exactly, it could be fabulous. Close to Porto and a lovely beach. It just needs some tlc.

Ampudia was lovely & we have stayed at Zambujeira but I think we might give that one a body swerve, if we ever get Biddy fixed

Currently sat in Salamanca, awaiting further diagnosis as to why we've got an engine management light on & sudden loss of power
Fiat professional can't fit us in until Tuesday morning; just hoping that it's not the turbo

 

[scousebird]

Ampudia was lovely & we have stayed at Zambujeira but I think we might give that one a body swerve, if we ever get Biddy fixed

Currently sat in Salamanca, awaiting further diagnosis as to why we've got an engine management light on & sudden loss of power
Fiat professional can't fit us in until Tuesday morning; just hoping that it's not the turbo

you get fixed quickly

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Ampudia was lovely & we have stayed at Zambujeira but I think we might give that one a body swerve, if we ever get Biddy fixed

Currently sat in Salamanca, awaiting further diagnosis as to why we've got an engine management light on & sudden loss of power
Fiat professional can't fit us in until Tuesday morning; just hoping that it's not the turbo

Hope you get it sorted.

 

[Jane And Rog]

The morning began with Portuguese rain and it stayed like it pretty much all day. We are now in Porto at the Orbitur campsite just outside in Canidelo. This is our most expensive stay by far, chosen so we can charge some kit and have easy access our bikes to Porto. In fact it is costing almost as much as all the other places we have stayed put together (a bit of an exaggeration but not much). To be fair it achieves those two things well, the cycle in is flat and on bike lanes or quiet roads. But, oh it's an awful place, scruffy, muddy uneven pitches, dirty sanitary facilities without soap, unhelpful reception and €35 per night plus tourist taxes. Can't wait until we have lithium! It does have a really nice pool, but the weather isn't up to it unfortunately.

The drive here was spectacular even in the rain. When we got to Viseau, where we got turned off the motorway all those weeks ago due to forest fires, the damage was really shocking. There were miles of burned out forest on both sides and some road signs were half melted. We came closer to the fires than we realised when we saw them on the hills.

Anyway, once I had managed to overcome my palpitations of the wallet at the rip off this site represents we got the bikes out and cycled in. The first part of the path goes along the coast and is I suspect quite spectacular, although the mist reduced it somewhat. The path then turns down the River Douro and enters Porto. The views across the river were limited unfortunately but it was a nice ride.

View attachment 960224

We got to the main bridge and as if by magic the fog lifted and the views seemed all the better for their sudden appearance. The atmosphere was fantastic, I think partly because Manchester United were playing Porto later that night. The fans were making a lot of noise, to the bemusement of American tourists. I was waiting for one of them to go and ask them token the noise down.

View attachment 960225View attachment 960226View attachment 960227View attachment 960228

My food intolerances that developed after illness this January mean I don't get on with anything grape based so for me a port tasting was out, despite how much I love wine and port. Instead we had a beer and studied the lonely planet guide. This has never let us down for suggestions of good, local and quirky restaurants to eat at, neither in Portugal nor in other countries. Today was no exception, after a twenty minute walk we found a recommended restaurant full of Portuguese and tourists. The television was on and everything had to stop for important moments.

No pictures of the food, but we both had vegetable soup starter, Claire had white fish with rice and I had salted cod in onions which was superb. Then we shared a slice of almond tart. With water, a half carafe of red wine (Claire), beer (me) and espresso (both of us) the bill was €37, delayed because Porto had scored.

We walked back through the darkened streets where there was still a great buzz. This is a lively and vibrant city also quite stylish, to our surprise we were expecting a bit more tourist bling and a bit more run down.

View attachment 960229View attachment 960230

The cycle back was very dark and very wet, but quite good fun hearing the waves crashing in and wondering where we were. I kept reminding myself to keep the river or sea on my right and we had to come to the camp site. It's not the quietest place but then it is a city. There is the obligatory Portuguese barking dog and this morning we realised we are on the flight path. Did I mention how much it is costing?

We had a very memorable stay in Porto back in the days of flying planes and staying in hotels. Loved it!

 

[Mr porky]

The port house Graham's has a nice restaurant overlooking the river and bridge.
Even if you don't drink the port.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Debs]

I'm really enjoying your thread - it's brought back some really happy memories and I've made lots of notes for our trip next year!

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We had a very memorable stay in Porto back in the days of flying planes and staying in hotels. Loved it!

Yes we like it. We are bringing back those days with a weekend break in Madrid at the start of November.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

I'm really enjoying your thread - it's brought back some really happy memories and I've made lots of notes for our trip next year!

Thanks, it's been a good trip.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We cycled into Porto again this morning, the mist had reduced so it was like a completely different ride with lots to stop and look at.... including flamingos, although we are bored of them now.

The day was largely spent wandering around looking at the sites from the outside. We did go in the Casa de Infante, a fascinating exhibition in a medieval customs house and where Henry the Navigator was born (supposedly). In 1990 they also discovered Roman foundations and a mosaic. When we came out of the museum the sun was shining.

The railway station is also famed for the blue tiles in the entrance way so we dodged a lot of building work and went in to take a look.... well worth it.

On the cycle back we stopped at the mouth to the River Douro and on the local beach. Whilst there we had a message from Brittany Ferries to say our ferry will depart late due to a technical issue. It's a bit of a pain because we will get home much later but let's hope that's the extent of it. Last time this happened we were in Albaracin and they gradually delayed it further until it was cancelled. That would be frustrating, I am on a night shift the day after we return and Claire's mum has just got out of hospital and she is desperate to see her.

 

[Jane And Rog]

Fingers crossed it all goes well.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Wanders from Glos]

It has been raining for most of the day so we decided to have a driving day and do a chunk of the journey to Santander. We were also missing Spain. The plan was to drive until we got out of the bad weather, which has taken us to a town just south of Leon called Valencia de Don Juan.

This is a crazy place, we are on a free aire near the sports centre. It is a working town, with industry, flats and houses, nothing really to offer beyond a stop over. We quite enjoy the odd day with nothing to see, just the real country, in this case Spain. So far so normal.

We decided to go for a walk, past blocks of flats and houses, some made of mud and straw, some brick. All well looked after. Around the corner of some flats we came across this abandoned building, not a Gaudi but in that style.

We walked on past a few more residential roads then around the corner we came across this castle.

Round the next corner and into a modern shopping street. The whole thing is just so Spanish. We are now sat outside a busy bar where every one is talking very loudly. It’s 8:30 and we are preparing to find somewhere to eat. We just love the buzz of Spain.

 

[cruiser]

We are following you around Portugal But have stopped at Silves.met up with some friends. Going on to Alvor on Tuesday I am waiting for instructions from the boss after that .Hope all is well

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We are following you around Portugal But have stopped at Silves.met up with some friends. Going on to Alvor on Tuesday I am waiting for instructions from the boss after that .Hope all is well

Silves is great isn’t it? We ran out of time for Alvor, have to be when we return. It’s meant to be worthwhile.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We weren’t sure what we had ordered at the restaurant. The burgers looked fabulous and the mixed grill enormous so we were hopeful. What arrived was a lot of fried fish, no veg, salad or potatoes. To be fair it was very good and very filling.

 

[cruiser]

Oh dear. That looks good gave your taste buds a bit of workout

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}