We are wandering again in Spain and Portugal

As we went to bed last night we had a clear plan to find somewhere to stay on the Algarve West Coast. This morning the weather forecast was for light rain, so once again we changed the plan and headed into the mountains. Sometimes I wonder if it is worth the effort of working out where to go the night before.

We are in the Monchique national park at a small town called Alferce. We are on the free air which has space for five vehicles. There is seating to look at the fabulous views, two washing up sinks, free services, a built in bbq and very clean toilets. All for nothing. Next to the air is an old laundry area, still in use, with covered drying. They have built a new larger air next door, that looks like it will be very good, but it is not open yet.

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No idea what Claire is doing in this picture, certainly not acting like she is 60!

We came here to do some walking. There is a boardwalk crossing a gorge called the Passadicos Barranco do Demo, which you can do as part of a larger circuit. We felt a day of drizzle was the ideal time, although it was still warm, around 25 degrees. The walkway is not of the standard of the Caminito del Rey, but it was fun.

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We did the Passadicos as part of a longer walk, through the hills. It should have been about 7.5k, but poor navigation took it up to nearer 10k. The misty rain persisted throughout, but we still really enjoyed it and we saw some good bird life including a Short-toed Treecreeper and a flock of Azure Winged Magpies. There were also a lot of cork oaks that had been harvested. We notice they all have a number on, not sure what for. The views even in the rain were stunning, they would be fabulous on a sunny day, but it was very up and down and would be tricky in hot weather. The photos don't really do it justice but here goes.

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When we got back we made use of the laundry area, to hang our wet clothes. The little bar in town does one of those Portuguese menu de dia where you have to chose, meat or fish.... that's it. So we might give it a try although we aren't certain whether it will be open.
 
We wandered up the cobbled street to the bar, where we were the only non locals. It wasn’t even a choice of meat or fish, just meat. Turned out to be quite good, pork Pica-Pau with salad, rice and chips. We had bread and olives to start washed down with three beers and topped with two espressos after. Grand total €23.70, cash only. It seemed so cheap I made her add it up again. FVM.

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We moved on to the west coast today, to a town called Zambujeira do Mar. The drive from Alferce was slow and tortuous mountain roads, taking a long time to get to the road north. It took nearly 90 minutes to do 45 miles. We are at an ACSI campsite that gets high ratings. It's not really our cup of tea to be honest, lots of trees and a little crammed in but the facilities are plentiful and spotless and Claire wanted to be by the beach for a few days, which realistically means a site until the lithium is sorted. To be fair it is only €17, so pretty good for a campsite. It's strange how our motorhoming tastes have changed, when we started only 8 years ago thought these sites were marvellous.

The town is a short walk or even shorter bike ride and is not at all touristy. The views of the beach are breathtaking and there are a few restaurants that look pretty good quality, no doubt with prices to match. I'm sure we will try one before we leave. The town makes the campsite worthwhile for a few days. Although the sea has some pretty big waves we were able to go in, but you can't really swim. I have to say it was really pleasant, I think we prefer the west coast.

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Today the skies have been blue, perfect for chilling. We cycled in to town to get some provisions and were collared by the lady in the tourist office. She sold us two t-shirts for €4 each and then decided we should all go and bang on the door of a lady across the street who would give us some nice tomatoes. We just about managed to persuade her thank you, but we are fine without any tomatoes. In the end she settled for us drinking a shot of some clear 50% proof alcohol before we went on our way.

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Our daughter who speaks Spanish (which is similar enough for her to understand Portuguese apparently) says it says the best beaches in Portugal.

After lunch we walked a bit of the coastal path, known here as the fisherman's path. The scenery is stunning with small sandy bay after small sandy bay. We stopped in one and played childish games to see who could stand up the longest in the big waves. I lost. After we sat on the beach doing some more relaxing.

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I am just about to submit my doctoral thesis on the subject of human rights activism in Israel and Palestine (to a lesser extent Yemen too), so I have been intrigued by these properly manufactured metal signs in a lot of towns. I'm not trying to start a political debate, this is a travel blog, but it interested me to see such formally made and installed signs. My daughter had translated it for me and I doubt it would be possible in the UK.

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We thought we might try one of the posh restaurants tonight, I doubt it will be up to the standard of Mr porky but we are looking forward to something nice and fishy.
 
Watched the sun go down over the beach and then visited a lovely fish restaurant.

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I had the monk fish and tiger prawn brochettes.

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Whilst Claire had tempura dorado with a fab sauce made of bread, garlic and fish stock.

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By Portuguese standards it was an expensive meal at €66, including wine, olives, bread, desert and coffee. But the last time we had a fish meal as good it was at Rick Steins and it cost three times as much! And so to bed.

Sometimes motohoming just feels like you are ‘living the dream’.
 
If you are carrying on up the west coast Foz Arelho is well worth a visit a favourite with many Funsters.
And another one we like Costa de Lavos is quite different a small seaside village and it is just residential. No apartments, no hotels just houses. Free Aire by the beach.

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If you are carrying on up the west coast Foz Arelho is well worth a visit a favourite with many Funsters.
And another one we like Costa de Lavos is quite different a small seaside village and it is just residential. No apartments, no hotels just houses. Free Aire by the beach.
Thanks will have a look at both, we will be moving on today or tomorrow. 👍
 
We moved on to the west coast today, to a town called Zambujeira do Mar. The drive from Alferce was slow and tortuous mountain roads, taking a long time to get to the road north. It took nearly 90 minutes to do 45 miles. We are at an ACSI campsite that gets high ratings. It's not really our cup of tea to be honest, lots of trees and a little crammed in but the facilities are plentiful and spotless and Claire wanted to be by the beach for a few days, which realistically means a site until the lithium is sorted. To be fair it is only €17, so pretty good for a campsite. It's strange how our motorhoming tastes have changed, when we started only 8 years ago thought these sites were marvellous.

The town is a short walk or even shorter bike ride and is not at all touristy. The views of the beach are breathtaking and there are a few restaurants that look pretty good quality, no doubt with prices to match. I'm sure we will try one before we leave. The town makes the campsite worthwhile for a few days. Although the sea has some pretty big waves we were able to go in, but you can't really swim. I have to say it was really pleasant, I think we prefer the west coast.

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We stayed there last year, with Carpmart. Only supposed to have been for two nights but ended up staying six, as we loved the area ;)
Daily rides to the beach, lunch at the bar nearest the beach & a €7 haircut, what wasn't to like? :cool:
Currently in Salamanca, due to a minor mechanical hiccup, but heading towards Portugal for the weekend.
Will probably head to Zambujeira at some stage of our tour.
 
We stayed there last year, with Carpmart. Only supposed to have been for two nights but ended up staying six, as we loved the area ;)
Daily rides to the beach, lunch at the bar nearest the beach & a €7 haircut, what wasn't to like? :cool:
Currently in Salamanca, due to a minor mechanical hiccup, but heading towards Portugal for the weekend.
Will probably head to Zambujeira at some stage of our tour.
It’s a lovely town isn’t it. We need to be in Porto on Thursday evening so should really start heading north tomorrow, it’s going to be in the late 20s here making it hard to leave.
 
Not much to report today. The weather has been glorious but my attempts to re-introduce lactose into my diet less so. We did a short cycle along the coast in the opposite direction and after eating our lunch went on a beach to play in the surf and relax.

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The weather forecast is even better tomorrow, but we ought to start heading northwards as we need to be in Porto on Thursday. The temperatures are predicted to be much lower on the coast north of Lisbon (still 19 or 20C) so not sure what we will do yet. It will be difficult to leave this warm weather.

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It’s a lovely town isn’t it. We need to be in Porto on Thursday evening so should really start heading north tomorrow, it’s going to be in the late 20s here making it hard to leave.
Is that the Camping Villa Park? I looked on their website but found no mention of motorhomes. We also like the western coast, and often stay at Vila Nova de Milfontes on the river Mira estuary a bit to the north, but it was very full of Dutch and Germans last year in February. This could make a nice change.
 
Is that the Camping Villa Park? I looked on their website but found no mention of motorhomes. We also like the western coast, and often stay at Vila Nova de Milfontes on the river Mira estuary a bit to the north, but it was very full of Dutch and Germans last year in February. This could make a nice change.
Yes it is Caming Villa Park Zambujeira. It was a little crammed in, but a good site. I have never seen showers and toilets cleaned so often. Plus the swimming pool can be covered, useful in winter.
 
Another beautiful day but it was time to move on up the coast. We decided to look for a town rather than another beach so we headed for Obidos. We are on an aire next to the C16th viaduct, €6 per night. The views in one direction are of the viaduct and in the other the castle. Should be good at night, if both are lit up.

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The old town of Obidos is a short walk. It is another walled city and it's a fabulous one. There are a few more tourists than we have got used to including quite a few Americans, but it doesn't feel over whelmed. We walked through the narrow cobbled streets and then along the town walls. Those who complain about the health and safety police would like it, there are no guard rails at all. It does add something to the tour we felt, acrophobia possibly :ROFLMAO:.

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From the walls we spotted the motorhome and took a picture for the 'where we stopped last night' page.

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The castle itself is now an upmarket hotel so you can't go in. It looked quite a bit like Conwy we thought.

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It was very hot so we stopped for a beer and then walked to the Continente supermarket, no more than 10 minutes from the aire. It was nice to be somewhere offering a selection of meals and fruit, there was not that much in Zambujeira. If we return there, we would definitely stock up better before arrival.

Of all the places we have been so far we would say if you go to one town in Portugal make it Obidos. We will eat out tonight, I am planning on lamb chops! All in the name of market research obviously.
 
Another beautiful day but it was time to move on up the coast. We decided to look for a town rather than another beach so we headed for Obidos. We are on an aire next to the C16th viaduct, €6 per night. The views in one direction are of the viaduct and in the other the castle. Should be good at night, if both are lit up.

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The old town of Obidos is a short walk. It is another walled city and it's a fabulous one. There are a few more tourists than we have got used to including quite a few Americans, but it doesn't feel over whelmed. We walked through the narrow cobbled streets and then along the town walls. Those who complain about the health and safety police would like it, there are no guard rails at all. It does add something to the tour we felt, acrophobia possibly :ROFLMAO:.

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From the walls we spotted the motorhome and took a picture for the 'where we stopped last night' page.

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The castle itself is now an upmarket hotel so you can't go in. It looked quite a bit like Conwy we thought.

View attachment 958276

It was very hot so we stopped for a beer and then walked to the Continente supermarket, no more than 10 minutes from the aire. It was nice to be somewhere offering a selection of meals and fruit, there was not that much in Zambujeira. If we return there, we would definitely stock up better before arrival.

Of all the places we have been so far we would say if you go to one town in Portugal make it Obidos. We will eat out tonight, I am planning on lamb chops! All in the name of market research obviously.
Obidos is very nice, we saw a horse and cart being driven around the narrow streets 😮
 
Another beautiful day but it was time to move on up the coast. We decided to look for a town rather than another beach so we headed for Obidos. We are on an aire next to the C16th viaduct, €6 per night. The views in one direction are of the viaduct and in the other the castle. Should be good at night, if both are lit up.

View attachment 958267

The old town of Obidos is a short walk. It is another walled city and it's a fabulous one. There are a few more tourists than we have got used to including quite a few Americans, but it doesn't feel over whelmed. We walked through the narrow cobbled streets and then along the town walls. Those who complain about the health and safety police would like it, there are no guard rails at all. It does add something to the tour we felt, acrophobia possibly :ROFLMAO:.

View attachment 958270View attachment 958271View attachment 958272View attachment 958273View attachment 958274

From the walls we spotted the motorhome and took a picture for the 'where we stopped last night' page.

View attachment 958275

The castle itself is now an upmarket hotel so you can't go in. It looked quite a bit like Conwy we thought.

View attachment 958276

It was very hot so we stopped for a beer and then walked to the Continente supermarket, no more than 10 minutes from the aire. It was nice to be somewhere offering a selection of meals and fruit, there was not that much in Zambujeira. If we return there, we would definitely stock up better before arrival.

Of all the places we have been so far we would say if you go to one town in Portugal make it Obidos. We will eat out tonight, I am planning on lamb chops! All in the name of market research obviously.
We loved it there, unfortunately it's where we heard the queen had died and were commiserated by some French and Danish people, the Danish we met a few days later at peso da ragua

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Another beautiful day but it was time to move on up the coast. We decided to look for a town rather than another beach so we headed for Obidos. We are on an aire next to the C16th viaduct, €6 per night. The views in one direction are of the viaduct and in the other the castle. Should be good at night, if both are lit up.

View attachment 958267

The old town of Obidos is a short walk. It is another walled city and it's a fabulous one. There are a few more tourists than we have got used to including quite a few Americans, but it doesn't feel over whelmed. We walked through the narrow cobbled streets and then along the town walls. Those who complain about the health and safety police would like it, there are no guard rails at all. It does add something to the tour we felt, acrophobia possibly :ROFLMAO:.

View attachment 958270View attachment 958271View attachment 958272View attachment 958273View attachment 958274

From the walls we spotted the motorhome and took a picture for the 'where we stopped last night' page.

View attachment 958275

The castle itself is now an upmarket hotel so you can't go in. It looked quite a bit like Conwy we thought.

View attachment 958276

It was very hot so we stopped for a beer and then walked to the Continente supermarket, no more than 10 minutes from the aire. It was nice to be somewhere offering a selection of meals and fruit, there was not that much in Zambujeira. If we return there, we would definitely stock up better before arrival.

Of all the places we have been so far we would say if you go to one town in Portugal make it Obidos. We will eat out tonight, I am planning on lamb chops! All in the name of market research obviously.
We were mugged there but only by several utterly charming schoolgirls (13 our 14 yrs old) who surrounded us to sell some pens to fund their trip to the UK. They spoke passable English and relieved us of far too much money for a grotty pen each! I would fall for it again in a heartbeat. Talking of being mugged did you buy Ginga liqueur and the little chocolate cups? Our friend in Ericiera laughed like a drain when we showed her and said they sell a kit in Lidl for a quarter of the price!
 
We were mugged there but only by several utterly charming schoolgirls (13 our 14 yrs old) who surrounded us to sell some pens to fund their trip to the UK. They spoke passable English and relieved us of far too much money for a grotty pen each! I would fall for it again in a heartbeat. Talking of being mugged did you buy Ginga liqueur and the little chocolate cups? Our friend in Ericiera laughed like a drain when we showed her and said they sell a kit in Lidl for a quarter of the price!
We haven’t bought any but did have it as a digestif after our meal. Need to find a Lidl then because we thought it was yumm.

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If you are carrying on up the west coast Foz Arelho is well worth a visit a favourite with many Funsters.
And another one we like Costa de Lavos is quite different a small seaside village and it is just residential. No apartments, no hotels just houses. Free Aire by the beach.
Top tip for Foz do Arelho thank you, we are there now.
 
We decided to pop down the road to a place recommended by Lenny HB and seconded by varaizian called Fox do Arelho. Fabulous aire or camper stop on a saltwater lagoon, the largest in Europe apparently. The aire is €6 (I think extra for electric) and has toilets and showers. Both are fairly rudimentary, but on the other hand this is the view from our windscreen. What more can you ask for at that price.

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There is miles of sand here so we walked to the sea over the large dunes and watched the waves crash in. It has been mostly cloudy today but still very warm. But as we sat on the sand the sun came out for an hour or so.

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We walked back to the motorhome and put our chairs on the sand in front of the van to drink tea and read our books. We are parked next to the Morelo Palace, belonging to a friendly German couple who go away for 4-6 months at a time. There is a small car in the back. Remember those days when we could go anywhere in Europe for more than 90 days.

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How we have gone without seeing flamingos in the wild before I don't know, they are everywhere, including the lagoon here. What's more they make a lot of noise!

A few days ago we bought some frozen sardines and we decided tonight is the night (while we have access to someone else's toilets). We managed to polish them all off too.

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We have to decide where to go tomorrow, we have one more night before we are due in Porto. We had intended to head to Tomar, but might just stay here. Would we be missing anything in Tomar?

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