Torx bolt seized head ruined

  • Thread starter Thread starter Robert Clark
  • Start date Start date
Agreed. It depends on the damage. Sometimes an allen just works with what is left of the head. Sometimes a slightly larger torx. Either way it's a bodge but worth a go.(y)
Ditto success here, hence my suggestion. (y)

Cheers,

Jock. :)
 
First question, do you want to re-use the part?
If no then try some of previous "suggestions", if yes then a bolt TIG welded onto the old one, will almost definitely work, that also utilise the heat of some of the other suggestions.
Access is very limited so not an easy one.

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Yes, the suspense is insidious and interfering with my tranquillity. When will we know?

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Perhaps the cabinet needs to make a joint decision and release, see what I did there?, a reply on the 21st 😁
 
We’re away in the van so only limited tools
Back home Monday for the next thrilling episode

As a teaser …..
Severe heat is not an option as close to the screw are plastic parts and cables

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How about drilling through the side of the heads and inserting a small bar as a lever to get some force on the bolt heads
Best to drill at the 4 oclock position to give a bit of swing. Use something like an allen key or a drill bit than is less likley to bend.
Try using a pair of pliers on the lever close to the bolt head to get you a bit more grip.
Keep the hole size as tight to the diameter of the lever you use.

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How about drilling through the side of the heads and inserting a small bar as a lever to get some force on the bolt heads
Best to drill at the 4 oclock position to give a bit of swing. Use something like an allen key or a drill bit than is less likley to bend.
Try using a pair of pliers on the lever close to the bolt head ti get you a bit more grip.
Keep the hole size as tight to the diameter of the lever you use.

View attachment 504761

Thankfully it’s only the top one that’s gone

I’m wondering about carefully heating up the head with a soldering iron to make it expand, then hammering in a Torx or Alan bit, then wait for it to cool and contract

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Even better would be drive in a torx or allen bit then use the hexagonal adaptor for the bits in a battery drill on 'hammer' to undo in reverse. Even better would be a 1/2" battery nut runner. but the drill should do it easily
 
Thankfully it’s only the top one that’s gone

I’m wondering about carefully heating up the head with a soldering iron to make it expand, then hammering in a Torx or Alan bit, then wait for it to cool and contract

One of the methods I have used in the past with success, is to heat the area and then apply "PlusGas" penetrating oil as best you can around where the head meets the threads and as it cools down the Plus Gas is drawn in by capillary action. Doing this a few times may get some lub into the threads to help get it moving.
 
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If the recess is wide enough around it you may be able to tap a small socket over the screw head and unscrew like a socket nut…?

I’ve done this on wheel locking nuts where I’ve lost the key..😆

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If the recess is wide enough around it you may be able to tap a small socket over the screw head and unscrew like a socket nut…?

I’ve done this on wheel locking nuts where I’ve lost the key..😆
No it’s a tight fit
 
Hammer in torx till very tight then use a impact driver in reverse
 
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I can't believe your post has generated 3 pages of replies Robert :laughing:.

Fingers crossed that the speedout kit works!!!
 

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