Torx bolt seized head ruined

  • Thread starter Thread starter Robert Clark
  • Start date Start date
Weekly task for me..... this apart from stuck seat posts..... I generally cut a slot with a dremel and that works..... sometimes on more exposed bolts the same irwin bolt removers..... alternative is to try another torx bit (larger) and tap in in...turn it so you break the torque seal and boom it'll be off....patience is key.... I had a crank to do on Monday....fixing bolt was inside the bottom bracket.....nightmare....good luck and always use a torque wrench
 
sallylillian said:
Let me know if you fit these Robert, I have looked at them several times but just never got around to examining the how.
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I’m wondering if they are for road bikes as our stem is steeply angled and adjustable.
I think well greased s/steel bolts will be fine, especially if they are replaced at regular intervals
 
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Here is what I use.
20210610_090914.jpg
 
No mine is an Allen not a Torx and if you zoom in you will see that it is designed for a limited angular insertion due to the removal of some of the key about 2mm up from the tip.
 
sallylillian said:
No mine is an Allen not a Torx and if you zoom in you will see that it is designed for a limited angular insertion due to the removal of some of the key about 2mm up from the tip.
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That’s what I’ve ordered for our new Allen bolts
 
I know I am late to the party but if you have one bolt out and the other is loose enough that you can rotate the bars can you not wiggle the bars back and forth while pulling them up so the stem slips off the steerer tube? Will need to remove the top cap of course but once off the steerer tube there will be no tension on the bolt and it should be easily removed. Or, if it is not loose put the other bolt back in and tighten it up so it clamps the stem tighter than it was clamped and the bolt should be loose.
 
Neil Bedwin said:
I know I am late to the party but if you have one bolt out and the other is loose enough that you can rotate the bars can you not wiggle the bars back and forth while pulling them up so the stem slips off the steerer tube? Will need to remove the top cap of course but once off the steerer tube there will be no tension on the bolt and it should be easily removed. Or, if it is not loose put the other bolt back in and tighten it up so it clamps the stem tighter than it was clamped and the bolt should be loose.
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Another option to try thanks
 
Robert Clark said:
Update
We tried the elastic band option today - fail
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Can't say I'm surprised.
If the torque required was enough the strip the bolt head, that's if the torx bit was a good fit, many aren't,, I really can't see an elastic band would provide enough support.
Same will go for using epoxy resin to build up the head around the torx bit. It will simple crack then grind down as the bit turns.
As already said, Sacrificial torx or Allen key and a hammer but you'll need to support the other side on something solid to hammer the bit in.
Maybe a wood block with something to protect the paint.
The shock of the hammer may also crack the steel to alloy corrosion.
 
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Don't know why they have to change things, what's wrong with a hexagonal bolt head? Never had one of those fail.. Ever. They snap the bolt first.

In fact on a Land Rover they USUALLY snap the bolt 😆
 
Richard n Ann said:
Don't know why they have to change things, what's wrong with a hexagonal bolt head? Never had one of those fail.. Ever. They snap the bolt first.

In fact on a Land Rover they USUALLY snap the bolt 😆
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I think it’s a German preference

Our bikes and Motorhome are both German and it’s all they seem to use.
 

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