Torx bolt seized head ruined

[jezport]

Hammer on a star socket

 

[Robert Clark]

It’s only slightly mangled so first I’m trying gluing the original T25 driver bit into the hole with some Araldite Metal hopefully there’s enough bite left In the head to get a grip

If that fails I’ll try a slightly bigger Torx head T27, and an alan key

If that fails I’ll try some of the other ideas when I get back home.

Will report back !

 

[Gaston aires]

Whenever I try to remove a stuck nut or bolt I heat it up with a plumbing blowtorch. Usually does the trick.

 

[funflair]

I'm just pleased it's the bike and not the van Robert I won't be offering any advice as you have more than enough suggestions above but good luck anyway

 

[Hettie's Crew]

Because of the limited access I’d drill it out deeper and use the ‘easy out’ stud extractors already mentioned.

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[Vipar]

Superglue a Phillips screwdriver bit leave to set try that nothing to lose. Or like me ask the wife to undo it then when she undoes it say I loosened it for you. Good luck

Was late with my suggestions RC

 

[2 Jabs]

Wow, less than 2 hours and 35 responses, personally I would tap round using a small cold chisel as already advised.

Good luck

 

[Landy Andy]

If it’s been chewed up whilst try to undo it. Then next time you try with an alternative method, try to tighten it first, then undo.

 

[The Dotties]

Buy a new bike?

 

[GeoffnDee]

If you do use a small chisel try using it on the washer part as this will sometimes loosen things enough without damage.

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[deleted79651]

Sadly there is little access to the head

View attachment 504114

I’ll try the stud remover when we’re home

It’s a t25 head - Amy idea what thread size that corresponds to ?

Drill a hole [through the side of the head] large enough to insert a screwdriver shaft or similar to get the bolt moving? Or use the smallest set of needle nosed mole grips laid flat to grip by the tips of the grips [free poetry!]

Steve

 

[Derbyshire wanderer]

Knock a multi spline bit into it that is slightly oversized. This will give 12 pressure points to share the torque required to undo.

 

[Spanner]

Support the other side of the fitting on something solid like a wooden block on a concrete floor then drive in a good quality slightly oversized torx or splined bit, the hammering will hopeful loosen the threads in the aluminium, once the bit is driven deep into the head the bolt will come out.
Last resort is the drill.
Good luck

 

[MisterB]

Robert Clark

i cant wait to find out how you got it out and who won the prize of a 'gnarled' torx bolt ..... i have so many ideas of what to do with it if i win .....

 

[Robert Clark]

Robert Clark

i cant wait to find out how you got it out and who won the prize of a 'gnarled' torx bolt ..... i have so many ideas of what to do with it if i win .....

Option 1 - Torx driver bit glued with Araldite Metal was a FAIL

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[DBK]

Although it's already been mentioned the careful use of a cold chisel should almost certainly work. Ideally a half round one used on the top edge of the head but a flat one should also work but whichever is used it must be sharp. For a few pounds I would buy a new one.

Tap very gently to start with. If you can file a small notch in the head first so the chisel can get a better grip you might be able to use a blunt chisel.

 

[Robert Clark]

On a different note I was surprised to discover that one T25 screw was M6 and the identical screw on our other bike was M5

 

[Scotch mist]

As said by others , heat is a must , soldering iron is best , hammer in bigger torx or similar ( not Allen key )
if that doesn’t move it or the welder option then the drilling it out & stud remover will be a big ask
IMO

 

[68c]

Weld a nut to it then remove, the welding heat helps loosen it.

 

[Deneb]

Because of the limited access I’d drill it out deeper and use the ‘easy out’ stud extractors already mentioned.

My experiences of "easy outs" and seized bolts is that they're more likely to cause further damage than anything else, making it even more impossible to remove the bolt without causing further damage. I once managed to crack a cast iron engine block using an easy out.

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[Hettie's Crew]

My experiences of "easy outs" and seized bolts is that they're more likely to cause further damage than anything else, making it even more impossible to remove the bolt without causing further damage. I once managed to crack a cast iron engine block using an easy out.

Worked brilliantly on my Triumph crank sludge trap plug, notoriously difficult to remove. You must use the right size and have it in far enough though, many folk have snapped them, then your in bother.
The bolts in the picture look soft enough to be drilled and an easy out in there, just needs as big a hole as possible to get largest easy out furthest in.

 

[MattR]

On a different note I was surprised to discover that one T25 screw was M6 and the identical screw on our other bike was M5

Have you tried the elastic band a LBS?

 

[Robert Clark]

Have you tried the elastic band a LBS?

Will be trying that !

 

[Hagstrom]

Good luck!

 

[Robert Clark]

Before I apply heat, should I apply WD40?
How long should I apply the heat for?

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[autorouter]

Before I apply heat, should I apply WD40?
How long should I apply the heat for?

It's the final temperature that matters. Aluminium and stainless steel are both good conductors of heat so it will spread quickly. Aluminium expands more than stainless steel, so the hotter the better. In case you're wondering, a hole expands just as much as the solid metal.

 

[Robert Clark]

It's the final temperature that matters. Aluminium and stainless steel are both good conductors of heat so it will spread quickly. Aluminium expands more than stainless steel, so the hotter the better. In case you're wondering, a hole expands just as much as the solid metal.

What about WD40 ?

 

[gus-lopez]

My experiences of "easy outs" and seized bolts is that they're more likely to cause further damage than anything else, making it even more impossible to remove the bolt without causing further damage. I once managed to crack a cast iron engine block using an easy out.

Yes neither would I.

Most of the sensible suggestions have been offered so far. The larger torx or allen key driven in should work .

 

[Richard n Ann]

If you want to use heat a soldering iron will just cool off in the bold head.

Better would be to tap a big nail into the head and blast the nail with a blow torch to get it red hot. Copper nail even better

 

[mitzimad]

Looking at the position of that i would drill a shallow 3mm hole in the side and try to use a punch to turn itim not sure what the part is but you need to hold it firm
but as said i wouild try to smash an allen key socket into the top first

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