The resurrection of Doc, bringing a 20 year old neismann Bischoff Flair back to life after 12 years off road.

No point in fitting a B2B if you don't disconnect the split charge relay as it will bypass the B2B.
On the later CBE distribution units there is a zero ohm link you can snip to disable the split charge relay don't know if yours is the same.
jongood of funflair may know.
 
No point in fitting a B2B if you don't disconnect the split charge relay as it will bypass the B2B.
On the later CBE distribution units there is a zero ohm link you can snip to disable the split charge relay don't know if yours is the same.
jongood of funflair may know.
This is what mine looks like.
20240920_203353_copy_1612x1209.jpg
20240920_203349_copy_1209x1612.jpg
20240920_203450_copy_1612x1209.jpg
 
No point in fitting a B2B if you don't disconnect the split charge relay as it will bypass the B2B.
On the later CBE distribution units there is a zero ohm link you can snip to disable the split charge relay don't know if yours is the same.
jongood of funflair may know.
There's been so much I cant remember what the issue is with the fridge:LOL:. I do know that N+b usually wire the fridge so you can manually run it on 12v and I vaguely remember funflair having some grief with the fridge wiring when he was trying to set up AES from his votronic MPPTs if that helps.
 
So fir the electrical wizards . Would it do any harm leaving the split charge relay connected on this van with the b2b connected running at 30amps?

Or does the split charge relay have to be disconnected?

I'm not sure how to disconnect it in the distribution box , I'm not sure if the relay in there has more than one purpose and I'm not finding much info online.
If I just disconnect it where it goes on to my starter battery I then get a repetitive message on the main control panel telling me my starter battery is discharged which of course it isn't it just can't get a reading from it.
Some folks have snipped a link within the CBE box of tricks Tam. I and others opted for a Normally Closed relay to be installed. Once the engine is running, the relay opens allowing the B2B to do all the charging. I had ours installed for us.

It was thought that unless disconnected, both charging systems would be working against each other. The owner from A.N. Caravans (deceased), was of the opinion that it didn't matter, and would do no harm. Others weren't convinced.

HTH,

Jock. :)

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Some folks have snipped a link within the CBE box of tricks Tam. I and others opted for a Normally Closed relay to be installed. Once the engine is running, the relay opens allowing the B2B to do all the charging. I had ours installed for us.

It was though that unless disconnected, both charging systems would be working against each other. The owner from A.N. Caravans (deceased), was of the opinion that it didn't matter, and would do no harm. Others weren't convinced.

HTH,

Jock. :)
I dinnae Ken what a normally closed really is jock 🤣

But it sounds an idea

How do I do it?
 
There's been so much I cant remember what the issue is with the fridge:LOL:. I do know that N+b usually wire the fridge so you can manually run it on 12v and I vaguely remember funflair having some grief with the fridge wiring when he was trying to set up AES from his votronic MPPTs if that helps.
Fridge is fine now , works on gas , auto changes to 12v when driving etc which is all I want/need it to do. I've just a few cables on that to shorten and tidy up as they're too long at present having had cables from 2 fridges joined.



But I'm not sure if anything controlling the fridge 12v is connected to the Same relay for split charge . Don't want to mess that up when sorting b2b wiring etc
 
I dinnae Ken what a normally closed really is jock 🤣

Tam

a NC relay has a pair of contacts so the circuit is complete until such times a voltage is applied to the relay coil terminals from battery or ignition, it opens the NC contacts and opens them so acting like an electrical switch

It’s basically an electrically operated switch.

a NO (normally open) relay is closed when a supply is fed to the relay coil terminals such as when you start the motorhome and the fridge operates whilst driving

that’s hopefully in easy to understand laymen’s terms 👍
 
I thought my home made electrics looked a bit untidy but that's ridiculous for a top of the range van.
There's a lot more electrics in a van of this size than in a pvc . There are covers go over these boxes . I have them removed as we are working in there
 
Hi Tam,
Looked ar your joblist and I thought it read bedpan, but I think it's beeper!
I've a small victory mppt solar charger on order to replace my naff one, like you suggested when I was in Cornall with you both. Now looking at future proofing and reading stuff. Found this on off grid website but it's hard work for me to grasp:
Maybe it will help, I'm sure Gary will get it immediately 😉
 
No point in fitting a B2B if you don't disconnect the split charge relay as it will bypass the B2B.
Oops, I fitted a victron b2b in my 2003 Hymer (EBL99) and don't recall disconnecting the split charge relay.
Where would I find it and how is it disconnect please ?
 
I get that fitting your new shiny B2B might be preferable, but is it essential?
If the split relay system is working, and it charges your battery whilst driving, why risk b*ggering it up?
If you can get the gennie working, you're hardly likely to run out of power, especially in a sunny country.

How much does the current system charge your batteries?

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Hi Tam,
Looked ar your joblist and I thought it read bedpan, but I think it's beeper!
I've a small victory mppt solar charger on order to replace my naff one, like you suggested when I was in Cornall with you both. Now looking at future proofing and reading stuff. Found this on off grid website but it's hard work for me to grasp:
Maybe it will help, I'm sure Gary will get it immediately 😉
That's the ticket Chris cheers
 
I get that fitting your new shiny B2B might be preferable, but is it essential?
If the split relay system is working, and it charges your battery whilst driving, why risk b*ggering it up?
If you can get the gennie working, you're hardly likely to run out of power, especially in a sunny country.

How much does the current system charge your batteries?
The normal split charge is usually piss poor. My b2b will have my lithium battery replenished in next to no time.

The genny won't charge my leisure battery as I've removed the old mains charger as its not compatible with lithium.


I'll install a relay as mackeellan posted above
 
I thought my home made electrics looked a bit untidy but that's ridiculous for a top of the range van.
Ours is exactly the same with the covers off. TBH, it's no worse looking than the underside of an Elektroblok, ie, you just don't see it all. ;)

Hi Tam,
Looked ar your joblist and I thought it read bedpan, but I think it's beeper!
I've a small victory mppt solar charger on order to replace my naff one, like you suggested when I was in Cornall with you both. Now looking at future proofing and reading stuff. Found this on off grid website but it's hard work for me to grasp:
Maybe it will help, I'm sure Gary will get it immediately 😉
An excellent article there by RogerIvy , explaining it all in great detail. (y)

Northernraider. This our NC Relay installation Tam, isolating the split charge system from the Sterling B2B system.

Also, you can see a Vanbitz Battery Master, which ensures a charge to the starter battery (when at a certain lower voltage), from the leisure batteries. You may already have one somewhere, or a CBE Battery Manager instead.

1727007706692.jpeg


Cheers,

Jock. :)
 
Tam you will need to fit a normaly closed high current relay between the starter bat and the B1 terminal on the CBE. Applying a 12v D+ to the relay coil will open the relay contacts and break the loop between your B2B and the original feed to your split charger.
Its been covered many times on here, but Steve & Denise did it on his Carthago with a large 70/80 amp D+ activated relay to beak the existing charging loop, but reconnect when engine is off or being charged by EHU.
Heres a link to one of the threads below.
LES
 
Tam just put a 50amp diode on the feed from the elec-controller to the battery as per diagram below.
IMG_20240811_095934.jpg

You don't need the 5way relay.
This will stop any power going from the current charger into your new battery but will allow normal 12v function because the power can flow from battery to the controller.
Hth.

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Tam you will need to fit a normaly closed high current relay between the starter bat and the B1 terminal on the CBE. Applying a 12v D+ to the relay coil will open the relay contacts and break the loop between your B2B and the original feed to your split charger.
Its been covered many times on here, but Steve & Denise did it on his Carthago with a large 70/80 amp D+ activated relay to beak the existing charging loop, but reconnect when engine is off or being charged by EHU.
Heres a link to one of the threads below.
LES
Thanks
We just covered that above 😁🤣
 
Oops, I fitted a victron b2b in my 2003 Hymer (EBL99) and don't recall disconnecting the split charge relay.
Where would I find it and how is it disconnect please ?
It's inside the EBL, with your one you can just pull the 50 amp fuse by the starter battery.
 
I'll be there Just smiffy looking forward to meeting up and having the craic out in Morocco
I can imagine the thread direction,
"A Scotsman, an Englishman & an Irishman arrive in Morocco"....... lol

Jackie might be there tae so 4 nation's lol

The Four Nations Grand Moroccan Tour.

That's got a bit of a ring to it. ;)

Congratulations on the sale of Mobi. (y) A huge weight off the shoulders no doubt Tam

Cheers,

Jock. :)

Don’t forget the Brazilian….😉😎
 
Johhny fartpants would be more appropriate... I swear that man has wind like no one I've ever met ... everytime he strains he farts . I'm sure he's followed through a few times too lol.
Okay, seeing as he has a bit of jet propulsion it has to be 'Rocket man' then! 😄
 

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