The Big Lorry to Camper Conversion

Yeah I just watched it. Pretty impressive!! And yes, i saw what your talking about. Should have had the inner flange inside the wall, and the outer flange on the outside of the wall.... ??
 
MANGOFORTH said:
Aluminium rivets!! The first point of corrosion will be the rivets, Due to them touching the steel frame. Maybe in a couple of decades they will start to go...
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True if used on steel primed first. If not it takes about a fortnight ....... ;) . I was joking anyway - trying to save on the butt welding.
 
tonyidle said:
True if used on steel primed first. If not it takes about a fortnight ....... ;) . I was joking anyway - trying to save on the butt welding.
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ohhh, I'm tired ?. I've got 11 foot of butt welds to do tomorrow, on 0.8mm steel... Yaaay

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I'm at the opposite end of welding "sheet" steel later this week. A 16 ton Hiab had to be brought in to unload the first piece off the wagon! ? holy shit. I'll put a pic up tomorrow if I remember.
Hows the camper coming along anyway. ?

Wondering now if it would be just as simple to make the hab section inner structure out of plain (thick) ally sheet as per video but then stick on the closed cell foam before sticking the final outer formed ally sheet onto that. Sadly couldn't do it in house as our sheet metal bender is only 3.5m long ?
 
HandyAndy said:
I'm at the opposite end of welding "sheet" steel later this week. A 16 ton Hiab had to be brought in to unload the first piece off the wagon! ? holy shit. I'll put a pic up tomorrow if I remember.
Hows the camper coming along anyway. ?

Wondering now if it would be just as simple to make the hab section inner structure out of plain (thick) ally sheet as per video but then stick on the closed cell foam before sticking the final outer formed ally sheet onto that. Sadly couldn't do it in house as our sheet metal bender is only 3.5m long ?
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What with no frame? I couldn't source any aluminium sheet to do full size panel? I wish I had of seen these videos beforehand. I did just jump in with my eyes closed ? I read this and thought, that'll do https://lorrywaydown.com/the-truck/
 
Ha, It's the sort of thing I would have done too, I didn't know any different until watching a few build videos either.
Definitely now thinking of using the ali spool mig gun and making the base frame ally and the side and roof in big sections, I think I can get them bent to order that length... someone must do em ?
I'd probably have to make a wooden hab shaped brace internally to hold it in shape until it was all glued and what not I guess. Then knocknout the bracing afterwards. Or better still, incorporated some of the internal structure into the build, build it from the inside out.. anyway I should be asleep, not chatting bollocks on the tinternet ???
Laters...
 
Im still young and at the start of my career. I used to work with this old dude, he was no. 1 mech for a f1 team, worked for panoz race team in USA, helped build the rs200, probably one of the most skilled guys I've ever met. He said to me once.... Or twice ?... "he who has never made a mistake, has never made anything"....
 
Only a small bit of sheet metal ?
C0AE8D0D-D3A8-4B31-AB22-6814711101CC.jpeg

?

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Bloody hell!!! How do you get penetration on that ?? never done anything near that!!!.... Geuss you don't have to worry about blowing a hole in it.
 
Tail lift balconies are the mutts. This one is on ebay at the moment
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but I saw one on a site the other day that was way better alas didn't get a picture. It was on a merc 6x6 chassis (didn't know there was such thing) either very well home made or by a niche convertor, it was big, the only writing on it said "wild camping" and "6x6" across the bonnet. .
 
Can any plumbers put there supply me with a solid MH plumbing diagram and some help? ?
 
Water or gas?

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Have a look at the relevant equipment websites. It's pretty well covered.
 
MANGOFORTH bit of a big ask , as there are so many variables , especially on what you want from your system . Broken Link Removed gives you a few diagrams .
 
van water isnt difficult, tank, pump,first tee to hot water supply then carry that line on to each tap .Another line from outlet of water heater to each tap water heater should come with various safety valves which need to vent through floor to outside .i would use domestic push fit pipework and domestic taps with a pressurised system. Lay pipework out so it will drain out when not in use and fit a full bore drain of valve, you may find you need an expansion vessel to stop taps pulsing but ive done two systems without and had no problems
i would keep pipework within the van and lag everything most commercial builds include a frost dump valve as well
 
Never done plumbing before. Sort of get what I've got to do, the bit I'm sort of stuck on is.... Linking two separate water-tanks into one system so they act as one, and what type of pump to use? So that it's pressurised and works once tap is opened..sorry should have been specific. To quote the Mrs "in your head isn't helpful to me is it" ?

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Generic advice;
Use John Guest speedfit connectors and pipe. Do not use the spike/jubilee clip types.

Linking two separate tanks;
Join them at the top and bottom. Look for nut in tank fittings. The top one is necessary to allow air to move freely. Ensure tank has baffle if over 150L or so, particularly if you are likely to drive partially filled. Strap tanks down.

For pump;
I would recommend sureflo pumps but add an accumulator after pump.
 
How you drain your tanks will depend where you put them, if you have them either side of the vehicle then you will want to use them both together so the vehicle doesn't start to lean to one side.
If you haven't already, look into tanks with a propshaft cut out in it specially designed for central location. Much better handling when full.
Especially if you fit decent sized 250 litre tanks (250kgs of water)
For even draining I would fit level sensors to both, then use something like an arduino to look at resistance and switch pump relays accordingly. If you didn't want to get all technical, just join the tanks together at the bottom with a bit of pipe, then even if you only pump from one, they will self balance. Can also fit a tap or electronic valve between the two so you have emergency shut off if one springs a leak, that way saving one tanks worth.
 
Any reason you want to go the pressurised system route instead of switch operated taps?
I know normal kichenware taps cost less but it will be at the expense of absolutely ensuring a leak free system design, rather than a more simple hose and hose clamp design

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HandyAndy said:
Any reason you want to go the pressurised system route instead of switch operated taps?
I know normal kichenware taps cost less but it will be at the expense of absolutely ensuring a leak free system design, rather than a more simple hose and hose clamp design
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I personally preferred the pressurised system for a number of reasons. The biggest was installation is much easier as you don't need to run additional wiring.
But also, with a switched system you can have a small pause before full pressure which in the shower is a pain.
 
Gromett said:
Generic advice;
Use John Guest speedfit connectors and pipe. Do not use the spike/jubilee clip types.

QUOTE]
Also good idea to mark the pipe at the insertion depth so that you know the pipe has been fully inserted in the joint.
Click to expand...
 
although it is perfectly ok to saw the pipe neatly and remove swarf, a proper pipe cutter in my opinion is essential to guarantee a good seal every time with push fit fittings
 
And some recommend the use of inserts into the end of the pipe.

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