Starlink ordered… I feel it’s the only sensible option now..

Thank you. I meant using more than one to extend the range through the house.
I think there are several you tube videos re mesh extenders ...

Or replace the Starlink router with a much better router
 
I think there are several you tube videos re mesh extenders ...
Wouldn't use mesh extenders as they compete with each other "badly", impacting peak speeds possible.

Either use the ones that extend via powerline from tplink, OR run actual flat cat5e cable under the carpets/skirting boards to actual proper multi-access point system.

Our house has 3 of the Ubiquiti access points, all hard wired. They do work in a mesh mode, however work FAR better in wired, and has the advantage they are PoE powered, so you ONLY need a single cable to them. We plug our router into a PoE switch (also from Ubiquity) and then run cables out to all 3 access points.

Should claify in mesh mode get a peak of 150Mbit possible across the house wifi. If however, we use the non-mesh mode, each access point individually delivers 1Gbit.
 
They also are about £100 per access point.
You need a PC running the management software on at all times on your network (or what they call a cloud-key which can do same, which is also PoE powered). However, they also can be configured and run withotu management via a iphone apparently or be manageed by the cloud..., given we have a server on 24/7 for the house, we just run the maangement on that.


£300 for 3!

And for a motorhome you wouldn't really run these relying on internal ones. You however WOULD need these if you have a house with consturuction that doesn't work well with wifi... we can't get our wifi to give reliable steaming to the tv at 4k without the router being in the same room, and the doorbell then doesn't work! So we ended up with one at front of house for kitchen and one at rear for the tv, and a third "upstairs" to cover the bedrooms and devices.

And don't forget you need either an injector or PoE switch to power them, but there are so many of these and these are not as expensive as a single access point. It does however as said, nicely make all the power needs be needed in the location you put the swithc and run the 4 wires back to (one for router, one for each access point). We have the switch centrallly ran to where our router is located so we can also run it via a UPS so internet (and wifi) stays up in power cuts for around 6 hours.
 
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Many thanks.

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Has anyone used Starlink at home with more than one router in the house? Does it work?
Yes we have the original starlink router in hallway with the starlink Ethernet adaptor then plugged in to a 4 into1 ethernet splitter a cable from which goes in to our lounge to a TP-link router. Before we got 40 mbs in lounge,17" walls now we get 250>300.
 
I have Orbi satellites as a mesh network house and garden with a BT router. No speed degradation at any of the access points - I get around 70mbps from BT into the house and experience same everywhere in house and garden
OrbiI is a good system but not cheap per satellite
 
I have Orbi satellites as a mesh network house and garden with a BT router. No speed degradation at any of the access points - I get around 70mbps from BT into the house and experience same everywhere in house and garden
OrbiI is a good system but not cheap per satellite
The issue we have is the 4k streaming, we had mesh network setup -> but when you have 4k blueray copies on a local server, the rates required to stream them are > 100Mbit constant. The mesh network mode couldn't cope and the TV bufferred a lot. We did start with our Ubiquity in wireless mesh mode.

Orbi is good, as is the BT, and Google systems for mesh, but they all tend to give significantly less performance than a wired system (and given the satellites all need power anyhow, you DO have a wire in all cases. Friends with wifi have had similar experiences when they wired the mesh BT system, it works better wired.

I've just got really good at running cat5e thin cable under carpets/skirting now. Even doors are not an issue, you just use a dremel or vibrating plate type tool to cut a small channel at the door jam side of door at bottom, and the cable is hidden near entirely. Most people coming round our house don't realise all the cable we have running under tha carpet in the underlay.

Of course meshes do work for a lot of people, but when you have a > 300Mbit connection it's the only way to get > 300Mbit everywhere.
 
I have 4K streaming in my cinema room with no buffering problems - it is a control 4 system and is directly wired to the BT router with Apple TV also connected by Ethernet.

However our 4K TV in a different room on Wi-Fi doesn’t appear to have a problem

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Just checked t’internet and 25mbos is sufficient for 4K stream with Dolby atmos is the advice
Yes, it IS from netflix and for that I have no issues.

However for streaming 4k native res, uncompressed, with Dolby Atmos in TrueHD, the data rates are about 135Mbit. The audio alone is about 20Mbit. If your TV room supports it I would highly reccomend a comparison with a server able to stream this type of "native" blueray type res.

It's effetcively same as playing a blueray in 4k, but from a server, with no loss of quality. You do have to rip the original blueray to a server capable of streaming it, but with 18Tb drives being so cheap nowaday, a good library of bluerays at ~ 66Gb a rip isn't a big deal.

Our LG in our cinema room (65") only supports this when connected to 5ghz wifi and with good signal. Honestly it's the reason we swapped the wifi hotspot for the tv room to direct wired from mesh, and to be honest should have direct wired the TV at same time!. The mesh network was topping out at about 250Mbit, but wasn't consistent enough for the 4k stream.

Should add the complexity here is even the TV itself can't even pass TrueHD Atmos to the amp you have to have a 4k firestick (higher end model) as the LG OLED's only pass Atmod DD+ streams to a Amp if you using the "inbuilt" apps. It's one reason for having a device like a PS5/4k firestick to do the actual networking. It does sound significantly better with a app, as it's effectively a compressed soundstream using about 2Mbit to a fully uncompressed 20Mbit soundsacape.
 
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20 MBit for data? Seems wildly OTT..
Oh it is, total overkill, but the spec is ridiculous, it truely sounds amazing, but it's telling that most TV's can't support the TrueHD except in passthrough mode.

That said, it is the actual system used in Cinema's running Atmos, unlike the DD+ Atmos which Netflix etc claim as Atmos, which does sound "okay" but is no-where near as clear. My home system can change between the modes and it's literally night and day on some movies, but completely unnoticable on others.

https://professional.dolby.com/tv/dolby-truehd/2 -> as it says "up to 18Mbit on blueray", with overheads its' 20Mbit on wire when you actually throw it over tcp/ip networks.

The key bit is it's lossless so literally bit for bit the actual master recording ... unlike almost every other encoding format out there.
 
I think you have to be a real audiophile to appreciate the difference. I do also have a Blu-ray as well as Apple TV in my cinema room. There are 4 speakers behind the screen two in the ceiling and two at the rear - Blu-ray is perhaps better but it is not so noticeable that I would be bothered,

The main benefit is that no-one is answering their phone, or sending texts or crunching their crisps/popcorn while I am watching the movie. :LOL:

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Oh it is, total overkill, but the spec is ridiculous, it truely sounds amazing, but it's telling that most TV's can't support the TrueHD except in passthrough mode.

That said, it is the actual system used in Cinema's running Atmos, unlike the DD+ Atmos which Netflix etc claim as Atmos, which does sound "okay" but is no-where near as clear. My home system can change between the modes and it's literally night and day on some movies, but completely unnoticable on others.

https://professional.dolby.com/tv/dolby-truehd/2 -> as it says "up to 18Mbit on blueray", with overheads its' 20Mbit on wire when you actually throw it over tcp/ip networks.

The key bit is it's lossless so literally bit for bit the actual master recording ... unlike almost every other encoding format out there.
Lossless does not mean uncompressed though? 20Mbit may be the stream size but is it the bandwidth requirement?
 
It's ALIVE, Frankenstarlinkstein is alive, 12v supply direct to the hacked dish!

View attachment 904090

So it does work .... but do I have the time or inclination to sort out a one cable feed or just stick everything together as it is ....View attachment 904092
Looks very similar to the all in one StarMount 12Volt conversion, but they do have a 12Volt/48volt step up transformer integrated into the casing/ mount.



IMG_1605.jpeg
 
Looks very similar to the all in one StarMount 12Volt conversion, but they do have a 12Volt/48volt step up transformer integrated into the casing/ mount.



View attachment 904412
I'm still working on my case, though at around £30 it's a hell of a lot cheaper, but that doesn't make mine a better solution though, just a different solution.....
 
Why would you want to fix it to your roof. I have mine on my roof with magnets, but in Spain, on 1 in 4 or 5 sites I can't have it on the roof because of obstructions. Being able to plonk it somewhere on your pitch, (or on someone else's) has been critical for me.
 
Why would you want to fix it to your roof. I have mine on my roof with magnets, but in Spain, on 1 in 4 or 5 sites I can't have it on the roof because of obstructions. Being able to plonk it somewhere on your pitch, (or on someone else's) has been critical for me.
thats the conundrum for me aswell - hence my current 'design'. i do like the idea of simply arrive and switch on, but im not sure re losing the advantage of putting it wherever i want to get max signal - decisions, decisions ..... im probably going to stick with the option of keeping it portable at the moment and because its a hell of a lot smaller, storing it away shouldnt be as much of an issue

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For me, i am not interested in dealing with a dish and leads each time I arrive at site, I just want to stop and turn on but I do understand that one solution does not suit all and if this is your only method of internet then it being mobile will be crucial when there are obstacles in the way. I have not encountered any on my travels, but that's pure luck really, but then I do have another method of internet via the 4G/5G antenna in rare circumstances when needed.
 
Thank you. I meant using more than one to extend the range through the house.
I have the standard router in a static caravan in North wales and the starlink mesh router in the fellas next door 5 or 6 metres away who I let use the connection, the improvement is hardly noticeable, 150-200mb in the std van, 30-40mb in the meshed van. They are tin walls though?
 
UPDATE

FRANK STARLINKENSTEIN is alive and transmitting from the gods, to my very own computer/phone etc

its been a slog but ive done it, just changed the connections and its all on line !!

welcome home FRANK, ive been waiting for you for some time!!
 
Spoke too soon. I can't establish an internet connection, which I assume is an issue to do with the router as opposed to the technicalities of the connections etc. at least I know it's not an issue with starlink as it wouldn't have updated, so it must be a router set up issue.
I will try q different router but I'm pleased with how it's gone so far. At least I haven't broken anything lol ...... apart from the casing, original router, cable and the odd one or two components being removed from dishy .... :LOL: :LOL:

and now its reconnected itself ...... im convinced its a router issue otherwise why would it keep showing as connected ... i am going to leave as it is for an hour and see if it sorts iteslf out, if not then i will try a different router - unless anyone has any suggestions that arent too technical

the router is a GL-inet 1300 ..
If you want the best router for Starlink have a look at Pepwave ones - they directly support Starlink (well most things, they are still working on some bits) so you can configure and control the Starlink. It will switch over to a cell connection automatically when Starlink off or down. It’s very convenient but probably not the cheapest!
 
If you want the best router for Starlink have a look at Pepwave ones - they directly support Starlink (well most things, they are still working on some bits) so you can configure and control the Starlink. It will switch over to a cell connection automatically when Starlink off or down. It’s very convenient but probably not the cheapest!
Thanks, I've got a small Beryl that runs on 5v and it's 5G and will prob give me what I need. If not then I will look to upgrade ...

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what was the reason why it didnt work before on that router out of interest?
 
what was the reason why it didnt work before on that router out of interest?
User error, my crimper didn't close down on one of the contacts so it was showing as WAN not connected. I used my tester and realised there was no continuity between the RJ45's on one of the wires in the ethernet cable.

Happy to share my experiences on how I got to a successful major hack with anyone who fancies doing the same.....
My major issue though is that now having achieved what I wanted to, is that I now want to improve on what I've done !!

Still keen to make the single cable connection .... I tested the speed and it was less than 100mbs so my thoughts on splitting the cable might be an option BUT we are going away in a couple of days, so it will have to wait until I get back before I can play with my other starlink.

So that means Frank (number 1) might be looking for adoption in a month's time .... Though of course part exchange might be an option, a dishy for a little dishy, when the boat comes in ....
 
If you want the best router for Starlink have a look at Pepwave ones - they directly support Starlink (well most things, they are still working on some bits) so you can configure and control the Starlink. It will switch over to a cell connection automatically when Starlink off or down. It’s very convenient but probably not the cheapest!

Some heavy duty use cases with Pepwave; bit overkill for me!

 
Well, I've only gone and sorted it, one cable feed to Frank Starlinkenstein....

The router is also powered by a 5v supply, so the whole setup should consume a lot less power than it would through 240v. It looks a bit 'rough and ready' at the moment but I will eventually smarten it all up, when I get back from our trip over to mainland Europe starting tomorrow!
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