On the Road Again ! Poland - Slowakia - Austria - Italy - Greece........and back.

[nicholsong]

Mani Peninsula.

We had touched places in the Mani before but this time we filled-in more bits, including deeper into the 'Deep Mani'

Conclusion is that we were generally disappointed, although there were good spots. It is quite barren, as expected, and there are a lot of Byzantine churches if that is your thing.

Where there is much sign of life it is of the touristy style with beach umbrellas and sunbeds, but not many natural beaches with a family-run taverna, but we did find one very good one, which was just 2km from what I can only describe as a 'French-style beach club', which we scootled away from very quickly.

The huge exodus of people from the Mani is now being replaced by tourism, but in my opinion not the the sort that attracted people to Greece for its natural beauty - sunbeds do not grow naturally like tamarisk trees!

Some of the less attractive places are even having the cheek to charge higher than normal prices - but to us only once.

The best food we had was in a taverna in Kardamyli which was recommended by an English friend who lives in Athens. The food and service was exceptional; they served wine in 1/2lts and the prices were what one expects to pay in Greece - result we stayed another day, another excellent meal.

I doubt we would return to the Mani.

I think our next trip to Greece will include one or two of my favourite islands - ones without charter flights, because I assume flights more recently to Kalamata have changed the tourism on the Peloponnese and Mani in particular.

We have 9 nights ahead of us in W. Peloponnese, which will include 2-3 spots we like and then Patras- Bari for a few weeks in Italy to look forward to, we hope.

Geoff

 

[barryd]

Hope the weather is holding out Geoff. Tornados in Aldershot yesterday apparently and the forecast for Devon next week where we are moving on to today is awful.

I always liked the quieter islands although we were very fond of North Eastern Corfu. Durrell's Corfu that is.

 

[nicholsong]

Hope the weather is holding out Geoff. Tornados in Aldershot yesterday apparently and the forecast for Devon next week where we are moving on to today is awful.

I always liked the quieter islands although we were very fond of North Eastern Corfu. Durrell's Corfu that is.

Barry, weather. Is fine - quite a lot of cloud last two weeks but suits us with temps now mid 20s. Only few showers.

Season is over for Greeks but not tourists so according to where we are tavernas may or may not be open, but I have resident cook if needed

 

[Jon Stewart]

At last we have got away for first time since November last. Trip earlier in year was cancelled because if illness in the family.

We left home in Katowice this morning, crossed into Slowakia and are now parked up in our familiar spot in Trencin by the river and thankfully in the shade.

Dinner on board this evening then off to Austria tomorrow to another favourite spot and a favourite restaurant.

We will post from time to time.

Geoff and Basia

Have a great trip.

Would be nice to have food photos, so we can create a to-do list of restaurants! Nudge, nudge!

 

[nicholsong]

see that have not posted about our trip since 21st Sept. That is because what is relaxing for us in our favourite spots in Greece could be boring to others.

However now I have some more special reports - mostly good.

Maybe I will start with getting lucky today and then revert to the others. Today we came down to a village in the foothills of the Monti del Matese. We did not fancy the steep/narrow climb to the official CP, but entered the small village square, where there happened to be a double parking end space for us with an excellent view to the West across an agricultural plateau and mountains, the furthest of which I estimate to be close to Montecassino of WWII fame. We had just parked and were discussing veg/fruit shopping when a fruit/veg truck drove into the square to sell. Lucky or what?

Now to backtrack.

Our last days in Greece were relaxed - beaches, swimming, favourite tavernas, including an evening with MHFun 'Lurkers' with no user name, since Jim pissed them off.

Then 1730 Patras-Bari ferry. Camping on Board.
We were one line away from starboard 'window' and there was space for us to set up chairs as a 'balcony' Unusually we did not leave the vehicle deck, ate in MH and slept well.

Bari arrival: 55 mins. to disembark. An Italian had warned us to high-tail it out of Bari, which we did, but still took 30 mins. Bari is now off our ferry routes.

We headed towards Alberobello to see Trulli houses but stopped at a cemetery with a toilet block outside, which took 1 1/2 cassette. Alberobello was full of tourists even in Autumn, so we skidaddled out.

Two stops later A Gem! Agrotourist Restaurant in countryside. We parked in grove of small oaks with 4 MHs spread around. Fixed menu of 4 excellent courses for €25ea and 1/2 lt wine for €2.50. We could have been in a city restaurant for 3 times the price.

Couple of OK stops, then we headed into the Monti del Matese. Stopped on village parking with excellent view, day and night of Volturno valley. Basia went off to find recommended restaurant for evening, to be told kitchen closes on Sun at 1600 so we go for Lunch. Very noisy with families out for Sun lunch with kids, but excellent food - two whopping veal steaks(1 cm thick for Basia and large chunks of lamb for me, all in great sauces with fresh crisp roast potatoes.

Next day over the Col, 11km, tp a plateau with a lake and gravel parking. This is 3,000' up and across to 6,000 peaks. Total tranquility. Some cows and sheep beep herded along the lakeside and that was all. This morning we woke at 0700 to 50m fog which burned off by 0900. Then sat out admiring the magnificent view till cloud and bit of wind decided us to head down to this village.

After what I saw as a disappointing Puglia - bad roads, dull countryside and unattractive towns, I now feel we are in the Italy that I imagine and expect.

Our itinerary has changed because our friend from Katowice cannot guarantee to be in his Ialian residence as he is 'selling something', so we are even more free to choose our routing - Decisions! Decisions! Might just hang around here?

Geoff

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[nicholsong]

Minimal interest in my last post, so I will confine this to saying that we are sitting in sunshine about 100' above a lbeautiful lake. In Italy in about 20C.

 

[CAB96]

Minimal interest in my last post, so I will confine this to saying that we are sitting in sunshine about 100' above a lbeautiful lake. In Italy in about 20C.

Ooh, whereabouts?

 

[Jane And Rog]

Minimal interest in my last post, so I will confine this to saying that we are sitting in sunshine about 100' above a lbeautiful lake. In Italy in about 20C.

Didn’t see your last post, even though I think I’m following yoiur thread. The agrotourist restaurant sounds great - do you have details?

 

[Pugsy]

Sounds like a great trip and you are getting about a bit and seeing good and bad.I guess if you did a similar trip again it would be even better as you could head for all the good spots
Why the rush away at Bari ferry, Is it a bad area for tourists?
Or a target for thieves?

Cheers Cris

 

[nicholsong]

Ooh, whereabouts?

Borgo San Pietro

Didn’t see your last post, even though I think I’m following yoiur thread. The agrotourist restaurant sounds great - do you have details?

Tenuta del Grillado a bit N. of Santeramo and is on P4N.

Sounds like a great trip and you are getting about a bit and seeing good and bad.I guess if you did a similar trip again it would be even better as you could head for all the good spots
Why the rush away at Bari ferry, Is it a bad area for tourists?
Or a target for thieves?

Cheers Cris

Grim city terrible traffic - 30 mins. to clear town from port. Lots of Gendarmerie standing on street corners. I did not stop to ask questions.

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[CAB96]

Borgo San Pietro

Tenuta del Grillado a bit N. of Santeramo and is on P4N.


Grim city terrible traffic - 30 mins. to clear town from port. Lots of Gendarmerie standing on street corners. I did not stop to ask questions.

Thank you.

I love looking on the map at where people are travelling, even if I might never get there.

 

[Jane And Rog]

Borgo San Pietro

Tenuta del Grillado a bit N. of Santeramo and is on P4N.


Grim city terrible traffic - 30 mins. to clear town from port. Lots of Gendarmerie standing on street corners. I did not stop to ask questions.

Thanks!

 

[nicholsong]

Since my last post we have experienced the following :-

Two cultural site visits - enough for this trip.

Two Municipal sites with all services, incl. EHU, FREE - UK towns note!

Four days of fog, rain but sun out yesterday and today, like British summer day. Sitting outside all day until I forced myself inside to catch up on posts, because too bright to do it outside.

We are in no rush to go North until weather changes,

 

[nicholsong]

Today's experience.

We woke in fog, but decided to motor up to the castle(closed) CP.

Fog cleared 1200. Views West to Florence and East across juncture of two valleys and hills beyond in glorious sunshine and 23C.

Not bad for 29 Oct

Who wants campsites?

 

[nicholsong]

We have had wall-to-wall sunshine continuously, after morning fog, for 4 days now.

We had 2 days in a small town Bibbiena with an ancient centre and I ticked off one of my bucket-list items of sitting in a piazza where there are no tourists and watching the locals go about their business. We spent 2 hours and a couple of glasses of wine doing that in the sunshine - bliss.

We also had two excellent evening meals there.

Bibbiena was a town with narrow streets, slow cars, clean, CP with escalator to the old part, well-signed. Obvious 'Civic Pride'. All to be applauded.

So far Italy has fallen into two parts: from Bari and Puglia up to Umbria and then Umbria and Tuscany.

The first part did not suit us as I reported earlier, but Umbria and Tuscany great , even when the weather was not good.

We are now on our 3rd Sosta with free services including EHU and here there is everything including toilets, all built recently. Bit difficult to spend money though as bars and restaurants are about 1 km away.

We have now done our last mountain pass which was 35 difficult kms, but from here it will be the boring northern Italian plains. Our next stop will be a farm for olives, oil and wine.

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[CAB96]

Sounds idyllic!