To do this you will need a large thermal store as it produces a lot of hot water (retired heating engineer), the idea is a good one but would over complicate the build IMHO. Back boiler, thermal store, pumps, pipework and possibly a vented system into a tank or unvented needs a pressure vessel.
i went for a 300Ah lith at £1700 it has all the "safety" built in. currently running either my air con in my office if hot or dehumidifier in the garage in the night via a inverter. the lowest i have managed to get on my batt is 37% during the night.
As I only just finished reading your fab thread about Greece it is still fresh in my memory, as I said before, i think you want to get this one a hundred % right or near enough, so I would forget the budget when doing the really important things like electricity , hot and cold water and heating, I think it is generally accepted that lithium is superior to everything else but expensive, two things, I would calculate the worst possible scenario, and then put 50% extra capacity on top , better too much then not enough, and why not ask a professional like Vanbitz to advise you on how to achieve this ?
For you the advantage of Lithium is being able to get a high charge rate into them quickly from a B2B, They also charge faster from solar as no Peukert Exponent to take account of & no absorption phase is needed.
Careful Paul yours are on borrowed time.
Oi, stop jinxing it you, I am trying to get a modest 20 years out of themCareful Paul yours are on borrowed time.
I don't have the weight problem. What brand is your 300ah lithium?its the weight saved that swayed me. 260ah gel =75kg x2 =150kg lith 300ah = 37kg more room for beer
Good info as always ....im not gonna even ask what puekart exponent means ..
those "flexible flyers" are worth top money now!
i thought it was spell check & meant " peugeot expert"
www.qualitysource.co.uk
I'd make the central heating system just that a circuit around the van with valves to turn off the different heating options like engine heat exchanger, stove back boiler / battery solar dump etc.Hi Tam
Most of what you are proposing with hot water heating via Bobble unit heat exchanger connected to the output of the Chinese diesel heater, plus of course using heat from the engine heater matrix by running pipes to an indirect heating copper coil has been covered by Max & Sofie's Vario Conversion, as I am sure you know, some great tips/ideas from them, although I didn't see them mount the copper coil inside the hot water tank, only the flow & return to the Bobble unit on the output from the diesel heater.
Their Solar & Victron set up will be a good example also, plus the 24 to 12 V dropper unit.
I like the way they handle problems that can only be discovered after fitting things, like the Chinese diesel heater upgrades for the exhaust/brackets & sound insulator jacket for the pump etc.
Good tip about checking the wheel nuts & studs on the rear wheels, get all that rust off the mating surfaces and check those spring washers, along with setting up the correct torque of course.
I bet you envy the use of their dads Lock Up, so much space and dry also, even if cold in winter. I think their dad, along with them are into show events?, you will probably know more than me on that, but they seem a nice young couple to rub along with.
Good luck.
LES
We have alde which heats hot water & heating when driving , once driving you arrive with a fully up to temperature van & hot water at no cost , a system any FLT would be proud of
Yes everyone is different, ours heats the water so quick on gas and we have instant heat from the Truma while the Alde warms so I don’t fit anything that I don’t think is required. It’s such a warm van anyway that heats up really quick.
I agree uncontrollable heat source needs galvanised header tank ,I dont think you can even seal a water or heating on solid fuel
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Are you able to put some cord through it and 'hoik' it up and tie it off so that it is supported whilst you get some tacks in then remove the cord?
Could you hold it enough to mark a couple of self tappers lower drill and then lift and screw in placeIts a pita this working alone fiasco .....this is when i miss my dad as he would have been out here helping out ...
Im at the stage now where i want to get this rear window panel welded in but i cant physically lift it up there and hold it in place to get a few tacks on it
Tack a 'u' bolt on the inside middleish & use one of the inside roof supports to lift it with a thin rope or cord.Its a pita this working alone fiasco .....this is when i miss my dad as he would have been out here helping out ...
Im at the stage now where i want to get this rear window panel welded in but i cant physically lift it up there and hold it in place to get a few tacks on it
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