I’d be sooo tempted to get the jet washer on that….
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I plan to before i paint it ...want to clean all the muck off the chassis and fuel tank etc ...be taking it roond tae tescosI’d be sooo tempted to get the jet washer on that….
Good man…. That’ll upset some….I plan to before i paint it ...want to clean all the muck off the chassis and fuel tank etc ...be taking it roond tae tescos
Are you planning to insulate the floor? I speak from experience that single floors are really cold. the Mh we rented in NZ was really cold to put your feet on in the morning and that was in their summer! I realise that you cant do a full double floor but wonder if some kingspan in bewteen the squares and then maybe 25mm across the top w,ould make a huge difference, just might need to do something creative around the side door.Yeah pretty much ...cut out the extra steel the bus converters had welded in and not painted or treated. The rest is pretty solid and cleaning up ok ...loads of sikaflex though which takes an age to remove.
The plan is to put new sheets of phelonic ( think thats how its spelt) ply down and then 25mm batton with kingspan between and then hardwood flooring on top. It does mean i lose some headroom but it has to be cosy.Are you planning to insulate the floor? I speak from experience that single floors are really cold. the Mh we rented in NZ was really cold to put your feet on in the morning and that was in their summer! I realise that you cant do a full double floor but wonder if some kingspan in bewteen the squares and then maybe 25mm across the top w,ould make a huge difference, just might need to do something creative around the side door.
The batons will make an unwanted thermal bridge across your floor. If you use a strong enough ply top I reckon you could dump the batons as the ply will sufficiently spread the weight to an extent that they are not needed. Maybe?The plan is to put new sheets of phelonic ( think thats how its spelt) ply down and then 25mm batton with kingspan between and then hardwood flooring on top. It does mean i lose some headroom but it has to be cosy.
That said I'm a long way from that yet
I watched that and yes some nice old vehicles. I’m not sure the people he went too for work were the right sort of people, to keen to rip it to bits.Theres a new program on channel 4 with Johnny vegas restoring old busses for a glamping site .... he has the same budget as me to convert an old maltese bus thats completely rotten some cool old motors on it though
I agree, I would ditch the battens and make a sandwich.The batons will make an unwanted thermal bridge across your floor. If you use a strong enough ply top I reckon you could dump the batons as the ply will sufficiently spread the weight to an extent that they are not needed. Maybe?
Would it matter? Cut them tidy seal with pu foam and then tape the edges. More insulation the better for me. ( writing on the upside)I don't think he would want kingspan between the squares that would end up a right mess with road grime. Would need to be a sandwich for on top of the chassis with the base layer of something like WBP ply with the underside painted before fitting.
Yes i thought that too. Until a contract was agreed for them to do the work they shouldn't have been pulling anything off it. Unnecessary as uou could see what it needed without doing thatI watched that and yes some nice old vehicles. I’m not sure the people he went too for work were the right sort of people, to keen to rip it to bits.
The battons all get taped over like this before top floor goes down.The batons will make an unwanted thermal bridge across your floor. If you use a strong enough ply top I reckon you could dump the batons as the ply will sufficiently spread the weight to an extent that they are not needed. Maybe?
Its the waterproof stuff that was used originally on these floors ...have to say it has done great the last 15 years on this ...didnt find a single rotten piece. I'll also be painting the underside of it before laying it.What is phelonic ply? I presume just some sort of layered timber?
I have put my fingers through loads of old Hymer floors where the supposed special timber has completely rotted away.
I would look for a strong sheet of GRP for the bottom layer.
Oi ... what's happened about the coachbuilt you're supposed to be building?Looking good Taf
Starting to wonder if I should go for a Vario next as well
Out of interest, do you know the rough internal length and width off the top of your head?
(excluding the cab)
Will definitely happen, but not a cheap build to do the way I want it (rough calc around £50k).Oi ... what's happened about the coachbuilt you're supposed to be building?
Dunno about cheap unless like me you buy a bus. The panel vans are like hens teeth and expensive.Will definitely happen, but not a cheap build to do the way I want it (rough calc around £50k).
I may do another build in the middle, something bigger than we have as it is a bit cramped. Could do with more storage, a seating area and bigger bathroom. I like the Vario as it's cheap for such a big and reliable van.
The lockdowns literally killed my business and I was one of the 1.5kk self employed that didn't get any help, mainly because I spent the two years previous looking after my dad, so didn't earn much (not that I regret that decision in the slightest). I'm now having to restart almost from scratch which will take time.
Plus, until I can find a bl**dy unit to rent, I can't build vans for others. Really hoping the bubble bursts soon and I can get into one around July. I have builds that I've been asked to do and could start in August - fingers crossed.
It may be the case that everything falls into place and I can start the coachbuilt this winter. If not, a Vario may be a good backup.
Resin basedBroken Link RemovedWhat is phelonic ply? I presume just some sort of layered timber?
Plywood but with a waterproof resin bonded to it.What is phelonic ply? I presume just some sort of layered timber?
I have put my fingers through loads of old Hymer floors where the supposed special timber has completely rotted away.
I would look for a strong sheet of GRP for the bottom layer.
It seems good stuff but its not cheapResin basedBroken Link Removed
Trailer floors & sides are often made from it. Mine has been outside for years & has no damage or rot
Nothing any good is....It seems good stuff but its not cheap
This is trueNothing any good is....
I dont want to fill in those areas im going to be welding unistrut in underneath as my waste tank , gas tank , diesel heater etc will all be underslung and i want nice easy access to them and the ability to keep the underside clean etc . Ill just be replacing the standard phelonic ply floor then insulating on top of that.Northernraider is there a MH/caravan company near you? When they cut out apertures for the windows, doors etc they will have a load of waste small panels that you could use to infill between your chassis ... might be worth a call or two to see if you can get your hand on any.
Nah it will just be underslung ... TBF i empty it daily and in many places i just sit a bucket under the tap and leave it open. So wont need to worry about it freezing....only fitting a small tank 2 ...well 2 of them one for shower sink waste and the other a urine tankAre you going fit the waste tank in an insulated enclosure and heat it from the blow air system?