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Lenny fridge mods, a favour where did you tap into the fridge circuit for the controller and fans.
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There is a two way choc block behind the oven, that feeds the oven lighter and igniter.Lenny fridge mods, a favour where did you tap into the fridge circuit for the controller and fans.
That box is just a RJ45 connector block I used CAT5 cables to get the power to fan and controller, using the block means I can just unplug it when taking off the grill.Hi Lenny you must get fed up with all us amateur electricians, the little box on the left handside of the photo where do I get that from and does that supply power to the controller or do I need another power source
Is that power supply switched on your van Lenny?There is a two way choc block behind the oven, that feeds the oven lighter and igniter.
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It is permantly live fed from a 2amp fuse that is in a seperate fuse bank to the Elektroblock.Is that power supply switched on your van Lenny?
On our Carthago it was permanently live
Looks just like the factory fitted option which hangs in a net on the garage doorLatest mod, not quite, I'm in the middle of 2 others.
Fitted a shower in the garage.
Missed your post a bit late now, yes extended it, a metre or two doesn't have any effect on it.Lenny, did you extend the controller temp sensor cable?
I agree Steve.Well I finally read this through a couple of times now absolutely brilliant thread it is a refreshing change to read an original useful informative topic that will help many people on here thanks for taking the time @Lenny HB to post with all the photos.
Much better than all the regular quotes from the daily mail or what ever other media blurb is in fashion.
I had it working on mine an 8 series, but it (The votronic) monitors demand from batteries and what it is producing and if the batteries are OK and not demanding the full available amps from Solar it will via the AES sensing wire tell the fridge to go DC. It looks at this every 30 minutes to review to avoid oscillation. Interestingly with mine solar also takes priority over EHU so will force the fridge to 12vdc even on EHU in this scenario. This I found in hot weather a bit of a pain as the DC element is only 170 watts on mine and the AC is 250 so more powerful. I disconnected it, but intended to put a switch in to manage the issue in hot weather.Hi Lenny,
Have you managed to get the fridge to work with the AES trigger from the Votronic? I have the same controller and spent an hour getting the trigger wire to the top of the fridge to make the connection. However, it does not work, spoke with Dometic and they said I would have to fit a manual switch, but that defeats the whole concept, as how would you know when to switch? I guess when the AES goes 12v it is wired so the alternator provides the power.
You have to go to S+ position on the fridge D+ won't work unless you put a diode in the line to stop it back feeding through the alternator, or that's what I had to do on ours more modern vans could be wired differently.Hi Lenny,
Have you managed to get the fridge to work with the AES trigger from the Votronic? I have the same controller and spent an hour getting the trigger wire to the top of the fridge to make the connection. However, it does not work, spoke with Dometic and they said I would have to fit a manual switch, but that defeats the whole concept, as how would you know when to switch? I guess when the AES goes 12v it is wired so the alternator provides the power.
Instead of putting a switch could you just select "mains" manually, although doing that would prevent it changing to gas if there was a power outage.I had it working on mine an 8 series, but it (The votronic) monitors demand from batteries and what it is producing and if the batteries are OK and not demanding the full available amps from Solar it will via the AES sensing wire tell the fridge to go DC. It looks at this every 30 minutes to review to avoid oscillation. Interestingly with mine solar also takes priority over EHU so will force the fridge to 12vdc even on EHU in this scenario. This I found in hot weather a bit of a pain as the DC element is only 170 watts on mine and the AC is 250 so more powerful. I disconnected it, but intended to put a switch in to manage the issue in hot weather.
Did you find where they had hiddent the built in solar cables in the trunking at the top of the cupboard there, it goes right down through to the back of the controller or wherever you want them all neatly bundled up ready for connection with the correct connector on???????Solar Regulator and Solar Split Charge relay installed, cables for the regulator left loose on purpose so I can fiddle the unit out if needed as it is almost impossible to get at once the batteries are re-installed.
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