Just too tight for screws. Tomorrow tells whether the seats still turn and if the clamps aren't glued on.1st one lasted 2 years last couple only about 3 months but it was Poundland epoxy.
Lenny's Modding the new Gin Palace
- Thread starter Lenny HB
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I used the posh stuff Araldyte, when I first did this mod when van was 4 months old I used Aluminium. This later turned out not to be a smart move the spring loaded locking roller wore them quite badly, not a problem in itself but the resultant fine coating of very very conductive ally dust made a mess and there’s a lot of electrics/electronics under the rh seat
. Now changed to steel
. Now changed to steel
Glad I used steel then.I used the posh stuff Araldyte, when I first did this mod when van was 4 months old I used Aluminium. This later turned out not to be a smart move the spring loaded locking roller wore them quite badly, not a problem in itself but the resultant fine coating of very very conductive ally dust made a mess and there’s a lot of electrics/electronics under the rh seat
The_Kraken
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Sorry to hijack this thread (feel free to delete it)
I’m confused! My current WiFi setup has become unstable this year. I don’t know if it’s my Huawei WiFi unit becoming unwell (it’s served me well for 4 years) or my Vodafone data sim deal giving me a diluted service? (I was on a Vodafone 50gb per month limit before switching to a Vodafone unlimited gb deal)
At nearly every site we’ve been to this year the WiFi signal has consistently become very slow or dropped out completely (the wifi on our devices disappears), no errors on the huawei WiFi device. I have one of those small antennas that I stick on one of the MH windows with window suckers.
So, I am assuming it may be time to upgrade given that streaming will be a necessity.
I have read many threads on the subject - LennyHB & DBK’s amongst others. Their recommendations point to Poynting antennas available from Solwuse. However, I have found the same units available from 4gon.co.ukmuch cheaper. Am I safe to buy from them?
I have an Autotrail Cheyenne. I understand that I should use the shortest cables possible but, in all the recommendations the confusing part is the cables. Which ones do I need? Do the antennas come with cables or no? If I buy additional cables can I shorten them?
if anyone would be kind enough to point me in the right direction please I would be most grateful.
Thanks all
I’m confused! My current WiFi setup has become unstable this year. I don’t know if it’s my Huawei WiFi unit becoming unwell (it’s served me well for 4 years) or my Vodafone data sim deal giving me a diluted service? (I was on a Vodafone 50gb per month limit before switching to a Vodafone unlimited gb deal)
At nearly every site we’ve been to this year the WiFi signal has consistently become very slow or dropped out completely (the wifi on our devices disappears), no errors on the huawei WiFi device. I have one of those small antennas that I stick on one of the MH windows with window suckers.
So, I am assuming it may be time to upgrade given that streaming will be a necessity.
I have read many threads on the subject - LennyHB & DBK’s amongst others. Their recommendations point to Poynting antennas available from Solwuse. However, I have found the same units available from 4gon.co.ukmuch cheaper. Am I safe to buy from them?
I have an Autotrail Cheyenne. I understand that I should use the shortest cables possible but, in all the recommendations the confusing part is the cables. Which ones do I need? Do the antennas come with cables or no? If I buy additional cables can I shorten them?
if anyone would be kind enough to point me in the right direction please I would be most grateful.
Thanks all
Abacist
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I have bought 2 mifi aerials in the past. One from Motorhome WiFi and a Poynting and both came with enough wire to go through the Moho roof and connect to a HUAWEI mounted high up in a cupboard. They also came with long extension leads which were not required. They do however have special end fittings and I therefore doubt you should tamper with them. I.e shorten
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I managed to flatten a brand new battery when my motorhome was sitting on the drive not connected to 240v. I don't have solar.
I was informed that even if switched off the control panel is active as is the Truma water dump valve. Dealer also fitted a USB directly across the leisure battery so never switched off. Battery discharged to 11.5v after a couple of weeks and now hardly maintains charge. How do you manage without switching the 12v off or are you on hook or solar? Many thanks
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Lenny HB
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300 watts of solar, all detailed in this thread, & all my USB sockets are switched. even without solar I would expect my batteries to be OK for 10 or 12 weeks (3 x 78ah Gels).
Two on Tour
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You could fit a battery isolator switch to cut off all your 12v systems.
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Many thanks once again Lenny. My battery is an exide gs900 85Ah connected though an EBL119 so don't understand why it fattened itself. Now keeping 12v off just in case.
I note that you have three 78ah batteries and spend quite a lot of time on the continent and not on hook up. I also want to do this as two of my offspring live in France and one of the main reasons for buying a motorhome. Could I please ask if you could describe your set up and equipment from solar panels to solar regulator to leisure batteries. I'm quite keen to use Schaudt equipment as they appear to be 'plug and play' with the EBL119. I have previously been advised that as the 119 is 18A output that it can only reasonably handle 100Ah worth of leisure batteries. The additional being used by the starter battery - up to 8A. Is this the case?
To run 3 batteries do I require B2B or an additional charger.? Is that even a sensible question?
As you can probably tell I'm not an electrician far less an auto electrician but would like to attempt some of the work myself.
I've been reading your excellent posts on here and find them fascinating and extremely interesting. Its great to see someone who knows what they are talking about and enjoys sharing their experience. Cheers.
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Lenny HB
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If you read the thread from the start it covers nearly everything I've done to the van.
With the solar set up I have changed the controller for a Votronic as its much better at handling the Gels.
As for the EBL the starter battery charge is only a 2 amp max trickle charge.
Yes if fitting extra batteries you should fit the additional charger but in the real world if it takes longer to charge the batteries when hooked up does it matter. Unless you are constantly charging fairly flat batteries you are unlikely to blow it up (famous last words). We do over 120 nights away a year often without using EHU at all & rarely plug it in at home, just a day before going away to cool the fridge down & save gas.
With the solar set up I have changed the controller for a Votronic as its much better at handling the Gels.
As for the EBL the starter battery charge is only a 2 amp max trickle charge.
Yes if fitting extra batteries you should fit the additional charger but in the real world if it takes longer to charge the batteries when hooked up does it matter. Unless you are constantly charging fairly flat batteries you are unlikely to blow it up (famous last words). We do over 120 nights away a year often without using EHU at all & rarely plug it in at home, just a day before going away to cool the fridge down & save gas.
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My EBL119 comes fitted with a 12V cut off switch but as everything was switched off - or so I thought - I hadn't bothered to switch it off. Apparently the electronics can be 'active' even although nothing visible switched - particularly the Truma water dump valve. Brand new battery discharged to 11.5v so 50% discharged. Now using the cut off switch when not using the motorhome. Will have a look at the switch you mentioned. Thanks for the feed back.
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Lenny HB
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Do not use the cut off switch on the EBL if it is more than a couple of years old they are notorious for failing, you swtich them off and they won't switch on again.
11.5v is beyond flat if it's been left at that voltage for any length of time the battery will have had it.
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Just finished reading your complete post and my heads buzzing!
So many mods but must make van life a fantastic.
My problem is that I don't really understand how all the various charging systems interact.
I note your point regarding the starter battery taking 2A and not the 8A as I had been informed. This leaves me with 16A available from the EBL119 to charge the leisure batteries. ie 2 x 80Ah gel batteries.
You have 234Ah installed. How does your Elektroblock handle this or is it simply a matter that when driving it just takes longer to fully charge your batteries or can your Elektroblock handle more than 18A?
Added to this is the 300W of solar power which may or may not be available depending on weather. The Votronic solar charger can handle 35A ( I think) whereas the Schaudt LRM 1218 is rated at 18A. Does the Votronic connect to your electroblock as does the LRM1218 thus allowing the EBL to control all the charging requirements whether driving, on EHU or off grid.
What I really want to end up with if possible is probably 200W of solar, a solar controller and possibly a couple of 100Ah batteries all connected through the EBL 119.
Once again many thanks for your forbearance and please take it easy on an electrical numpty.
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Thanks Lenny. Van is 4 years old and so far no problems but I take on board your info regarding the switch. Yeh reckoned my battery is goosed which p@ssed me off more than just a little as I only bought it a couple of months ago and the van has still to be used in anger.
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Lenny HB
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The electric dump valve was replaced with a mechanical one over 12 years ago.
Still charges the leisure batteries at up to 18 amps as the leisure battery take priority, it won't charge the startwet battery until the leisure battery is nearly charged.
95% of our charging is from solar, our winter Motorhoming is in Spain or Portugal.
More efficient to connect directly to the batteries no advantage via the EBL unless you have a control panel that displays current if so you can get a loom to connect the Votronic.
I had mine origialy via the EBL but changed it to direct it's a few percent more efficient.
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Many thanks once again Lenny. I now feel much more comfortable with what I have and what I need to do to get to where I want to be.
As solar for most part in Scotland is not great I'm thinking I would still require charging via the EBL. Great for when I'm in France.
So until I'm in a position to fit solar and most likely the Schaudt LRM1218 solar charger my best option would be to fit a couple of say 85Ah gels?
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Just had a reply from Udo Lang
Dear Customer ,
thank you for your mail.
No problem to charge a leisure battery with about 180Ah up to 200Ah with the EBL.
With Best Regards,
i. o. Udo Lang.
So now off to buy a couple of decent batteries in the knowledge that I'll not be frying my EBL when charging when driving - just may have to drive further.
Many thanks for everyones input.
So, tell me Lenny HB is this van your "keep forever" please?
If not do you remove any of the mods when you sell - I've been told by several different dealers,
they are not interested in "extra's" when it comes to trading in your van!!
Fantastic article and very good reference to doing mods. Keep em coming please
If not do you remove any of the mods when you sell - I've been told by several different dealers,
they are not interested in "extra's" when it comes to trading in your van!!
Fantastic article and very good reference to doing mods. Keep em coming please
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Lenny HB
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Got a new van on order, probably leave most of the suff in it as getting a very good price for it and want to fit better equipment to the next van.
Would have liked to transfer the air suspension but the Goldschmitt air is not approved on the new van.
Are you trading it in on the new one…? That’s a shame as I would of given you £20k… might of even stretched to £22k…..
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Lenny HB
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Yep agreed a trade in price held until delivery in about a year. You need to quadruple your offer.Are you trading it in on the new one…? That’s a shame as I would of given you £20k… might of even stretched to £22k…..
Are you trading it in on the new one…? That’s a shame as I would of given you £20k… might of even stretched to £22k…..
what at a £1 a week?
Yep agreed a trade in price held until delivery in about a year. You need to quadruple your offer.
I’ll Chuck in a nice bottle of red….
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Lenny HB
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WESTY66
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Hi Lenny......I am just in the process of following your lead with the internal fan, can i ask where you picked up the 12v feed from, for info i also have the RMD8505 in a Hymer and if you were to do the same project again would you consider fitting 2 internal fans?
For the internal fridge fan, where does everyone put the temperature sensor? The bottom seems obvious place?
Also, some of the links are to products no longer there, and my techness isn’t good enough to spot the same ones. If anyone has a list of fan/controller from Amazon/ebay etc it would be appreciated.
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I put the temperature sensor in the fins near the top on my fridge, but after a couple of years use the cheap Chinese controller packed up.
So I just have it on an on/off switch now.
I find that better as it seems to make the very slight noise even less noticable when it's not switching regularly.
If you want links it's probably best to start a new thread and ask the question
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Lenny HB
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I connected the supply to the terminal block on the back of the oven.
don't think two fans would make much difference.
Thank you lenny
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