Iveco Daily Engine question (1 Viewer)

[Carpmart]

Unfortunately this still feels as if could be canbus related, as I said at the start of the thread, I had similar symptoms and it was ECU failure.

No power to the pump could be the ECU not telling the pump to run, as simple and as complicated as that.

Keep investigating the pump, but I would absolutely try and see if power to it enables it to run. If it does, then it’s not pump failure, so what is stopping that pump from running?

 

[Jackd]

Unfortunately this still feels as if could be canbus related, as I said at the start of the thread, I had similar symptoms and it was ECU failure.

No power to the pump could be the ECU not telling the pump to run, as simple and as complicated as that.

Keep investigating the pump, but I would absolutely try and see if power to it enables it to run. If it does, then it’s not pump failure, so what is stopping that pump from running?

If that’s the case, could the pump be wired from an ignition feed? Does the ecu have to control it?

 

[JockandRita]

Unfortunately this still feels as if could be canbus related, as I said at the start of the thread, I had similar symptoms and it was ECU failure.

No power to the pump could be the ECU not telling the pump to run, as simple and as complicated as that.

Keep investigating the pump, but I would absolutely try and see if power to it enables it to run. If it does, then it’s not pump failure, so what is stopping that pump from running?

Did a 2006 Iveco Daily 3.0Ltr have a modern "canbus" system Harvey?
I genuinely do not know.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[Carpmart]

Did a 2006 Iveco Daily 3.0Ltr have a modern "canbus" system Harvey?
I genuinely do not know.

Cheers,

Jock.

Good question… I can’t say for sure… just passing on my symptoms correlated to my problem. it’s something simple.

 

[GeoffnDee]

I think it may be that the electrical fuel pump under the van may only run for a short time when the engine is turned over or through a , ignition on , timer relay (I am not sure which) . I had a Iveco Daily van with a similar problem and it turned out that it was a faulty electric lift pump , as has been suggested .

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[Steve and Denise]

I do believe the pump only primes the fuel system from my limited knowledge

 

[Carpmart]

I do believe the pump only primes the fuel system from my limited knowledge

Yep, the whole diagnosis seems to be centred around the lift pump only.

 

[Landy Andy]

Get a FUSED supply to the pump and see if that does anything. Then you can at least progress. Also could try a bulb in the system so when you try to fire, and see if the bulb lights up as power is given to pump. I would have thought pump to run permanently (with ignition) and use the fuel return system, not have an intermittent pump. But that is a assumption.

 

[Taff015]

Ill wire the lift pump to a 12v battery i have spare and see if the engine will fire up.

If so ill trace the wiring and see whats what. Or just rewire that part. If its cabling i can do that. I wonder if there are any relays in the loop that may be stuck?

If an ECU issue, im going to assume thats just north of really expensive!!

 

[GeoffnDee]

I think you will find that the inline lift pump only normally runs long enough to prime the fuel system , not all the time.

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[Taff015]

I think you will find that the inline lift pump only normally runs long enough to prime the fuel system , not all the time.

So its like the water pump?

 

[GeoffnDee]

If you have the fuel injection system I think you have , the pump only has power to it for a short time to prime the fuel up to the injection system which then takes over the fuel injection supply as required. If you are checking for power at the pump you will only find that there is power found either just for a short time when the ignition is switched on or only while the starter is being operated. Once the engine starts the inline pump will not be running again until the next start up which is why a safety fuel pump cut off inertia switch is not needed with this type off system.

 

[Taff015]

If you have the fuel injection system I think you have , the pump only has power to it for a short time to prime the fuel up to the injection system which then takes over the fuel injection supply as required. If you are checking for power at the pump you will only find that there is power found either just for a short time when the ignition is switched on or only while the starter is being operated. Once the engine starts the inline pump will not be running again until the next start up which is why a safety fuel pump cut off inertia switch is not needed with this type off system.

i pulled the fuel pipe at the engine end yesterday and there was no fuel in it. there is fuel in the pump but its not pushing fuel into the system. im going to change the pump anyway just to see if that's the issue.

 

[AdrianChen]

Any signs of the fuel waxing?

 

[Taff015]

Any signs of the fuel waxing?

don't know what that is but the fuel that i saw coming out looked normal

I've checked all the fuses and they are all good.

I have a new pump on the way and will see if that solves it.

If that doesn't work its either the cables, which I cant really get to in my driveway or its the ECU..... If the new pump isn't the issue, ill drop the battery out and pull the ECU and get it tested. I'm trying to work out if the ECU is hot swappable

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[Jackd]

i pulled the fuel pipe at the engine end yesterday and there was no fuel in it. there is fuel in the pump but its not pushing fuel into the system. im going to change the pump anyway just to see if that's the issue.

In post #69 you said you were going to give the pump 12v to establish whether you could start the engine, which would also establish where the fault lay. Either the pump or as Carpmart suggested, possibly an ECU issue.

Just buying another pump could possibly be a waste of money and effort.

 

[Carpmart]

don't know what that is but the fuel that i saw coming out looked normal

I've checked all the fuses and they are all good.

I have a new pump on the way and will see if that solves it.

If that doesn't work its either the cables, which I cant really get to in my driveway or its the ECU..... If the new pump isn't the issue, ill drop the battery out and pull the ECU and get it tested. I'm trying to work out if the ECU is hot swappable

What do you mean by hot swap WRT to ECU?

Sadly If you’re hoping to get another ECU from same year Iveco and install it, that won’t work without the necessary coding to your vehicle.

Have you put 12v to the lift pump yet?

 

[Taff015]

What do you mean by hot swap WRT to ECU?

Sadly If you’re hoping to get another ECU from same year Iveco and install it, that won’t work without the necessary coding to your vehicle.

Have you put 12v to the lift pump yet?

Cant as the battery i thought i had spare has been taken to the recycling. I could run a direct fed from the battery but have had enough of crawling under the van today!!! I found a place online that i can send the ECU to who will either fix it or clone it to a new one. I wish engines were like computers, i could swap out everything then!!

 

[Taff015]

In post #69 you said you were going to give the pump 12v to establish whether you could start the engine, which would also establish where the fault lay. Either the pump or as Carpmart suggested, possibly an ECU issue.

Just buying another pump could possibly be a waste of money and effort.

I had already spent the £29 on the new part anyway. I was going to use a spare battery i thought i had for a 12v feed. Battery went to recycling unfortunately so i am either going to have to feed directly from starter battery or one of my leisure batteries. both of those are a tomorrow thing!!!

I have also had an intermittent issue with the engine cutting out and the EDC light coming on which clears immediately and restarts. I have a feeling that all my woes are either the lift pump, the wiring (which looks like it would be a pain to rewire on my drive) or the ECU.

For the sake of £29 ill swap out the pump when it arrives as that's the least labour intensive task.

if that fails, after stropping about and shouting, I will look at the other 2 options, neither of which are going to be easy without a ramp or lift!!

 

[GeoffnDee]

There is also a fuel pump relay you could check along with its fuse , fuse 21 ( 15a ) and relay T10 (20a) in the engine compartment. fuse / relay box if your 2006 Iveco is a Mk 4 series or fuse 47 and relay marked 25837 in the cab fuse /relay box if a Mk 3 series (according to the fuse charts I have seen)

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[Taff015]

There is also a fuel pump relay you could check along with its fuse , fuse 21 ( 15a ) and relay T10 (20a) in the engine compartment. fuse / relay box if your 2006 Iveco is a Mk 4 series or fuse 47 and relay marked 25837 in the cab fuse /relay box if a Mk 3 series (according to the fuse charts I have seen)

Ive checked those fuses. Well 47 in cab and took relays out and looked at them then put them back.

How do you check a relay??

 

[gus-lopez]

How do you check a relay??

You put 12v on to one terminal of the coil & earth the other terminal. the terminal numbers are 85 & 86. it should then click .if it does the coil is ok & if you have a multimeter you can check continuity across numbers 30 & 87

 

[Spriddler]

I had already spent the £29 on the new part anyway. I was going to use a spare battery i thought i had for a 12v feed. Battery went to recycling unfortunately so i am either going to have to feed directly from starter battery or one of my leisure batteries. both of those are a tomorrow thing!!!

I have a spare battery to use for component testing but I have also used the battery charger from my shed as a temp 12v power source.
(You can get a tenner for an old battery at a scrap dealer).

 

[Taff015]

You put 12v on to one terminal of the coil & earth the other terminal. the terminal numbers are 85 & 86. it should then click .if it does the coil is ok & if you have a multimeter you can check continuity across numbers 30 & 87

I did a continuity test buy using the audible check on the multimeter. I didnt get anything on any combination of pins....

May be worth getting some relays?

Ive only got 5 pin ones spare and the ones on van are either the square ones but 4 pin or a smaller rectangle 5 pin version

 

[CazPaul]

Have you not got breakdown cover to ring, to see if they can diagnose it?

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[Taff015]

Have you not got breakdown cover to ring, to see if they can diagnose it?

Yeah I do through my insurance. But I'm stubborn and want to sort it!!!

 

[Taff015]

new inline pump arrived this morning. just fitted it (only took 5 mins!) and i can now hear the pump priming the system whereas I couldn't before.

Still not starting though.........

going to replace the relays and see if that does anything then its the ECU getting checked.

Dumb question.... I don't need to do anything to reprime the system after its had no fuel? there isn't some strange diesel start up ritual after no fuel?

Ned a shower now, i stink of Diesel!!

 

[GeoffnDee]

Have a look at www.vantuner.co.uk (Services) which has possible Iveco immobilizer problems information that may be useful in checking things out.

 

[jockaneezer]

As you've broken into the fuel system in a couple of places, there will be air in the system that needs purging, which could take a few goes ? You could undo the pipes at the filter and cycle the ignition a few times too, or if there was no issues (pre ignition/knocking) etc, you could just go for it and give it a few little sprays of Easy Start and see if it starts ?

 

[Taff015]

Have a look at www.vantuner.co.uk (Services) which has possible Iveco immobilizer problems information that may be useful in checking things out.

I found that video. Will watch it with more concentration!!

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