HELP - No Electricity

One way to test if 230V mains is getting to the trip switches is to simply press the 'Test' button on an RCD. It should trip immediately. If it doesn't, then either the RCD has failed (very unlikely but possible) or there is no 230V getting to it. Maybe the RCD on the hookup post or house supply has tripped.
Edit: MichaelT types faster... :giggle:
 
If those trip switches are on, as in the photos, and they trip when the Test button is pressed, then at the very least your 230V mains sockets should be working. Have you tried the mains sockets? Maybe try switching all the trip switches, RCDs and MCBs, off and on again.
 
If you have a Victron Smartshunt and a Cerbo GX, do you by any chance have a Victron Multiplus Inverter/charger fitted?
Edit: Sorry I missed the bit at the start of this thread that said you have a Multiplus. Sounds like it has gone into 'Charger only' mode somehow. You can reset that on the Cerbo GX display. If the 'AC mode' option doesn't appear at he bottom of the screen you are looking at, swipe left or right to view alternative screens until it shows. Then you can cycle through ON, Inverter only, Charger only and OFF.
 
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peterc10 said:
Show us a photo of your Hymer control panel above the habitation door (or somewhere close to that).
Click to expand...
Thats the obvious answer to me at the moment.
May have tripped out and not turned back on.

Any electricity anywhere else that should be working now ? TV ?

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peterc10 said:
Show us a photo of your Hymer control panel above the habitation door (or somewhere close to that).
Click to expand...
Sorry for the delay. I’ve been to the site facilities😀



IMG_5171.jpeg
 
autorouter said:
If you have a Victron Smartshunt and a Cerbo GX, do you by any chance have a Victron Multiplus Inverter/charger fitted?
Edit: Sorry I missed the bit at the start of this thread that said you have a Multiplus. Sounds like it has gone into 'Charger only' mode somehow. You can reset that on the Cerbo GX display. If the 'AC mode' option doesn't appear at he bottom of the screen you are looking at, swipe left or right to view alternative screens until it shows. Then you can cycle through ON, Inverter only, Charger only and OFF.
Click to expand...
So I changed it to charger only. Should it be something else?

I have tested the 230v sockets and they are working so that a good thing.

Just need to sort the 12v now
 
suavecarve said:
Thats the obvious answer to me at the moment.
May have tripped out and not turned back on.

Any electricity anywhere else that should be working now ? TV ?
Click to expand...

Nothing on 12v.

How do I reset the control panel?
 
CutThroatJake said:
So I changed it to charger only. Should it be something else?
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Since you're on EHU I would think you can switch it to ON, ie both inverter and charger. That should get the 230V side working.

Some of the 230V might be wired so that it only works through the inverter. That's quite reasonable since when you are on EHU the inverter can work to combine with the EHU. Most inverters can't do this, but the Multiplus can.

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CutThroatJake said:
Nothing on 12v.

How do I reset the control panel?
Click to expand...
On your previous post second pic it shows the Multi on charger only - If you select "On" and press SET the multi will supply AC to the van (What will then work depends on how it is installed).

Battery from the previous pics (Your Romote Console V2 pic) is accepting 81amps of charge.

You have some DC loads running at 70w, so not sure what that may be if the Hymer panel is not working/on
 
AdrianChen said:
On your previous post second pic it shows the Multi on charger only - If you select "On" and press SET the multi will supply AC to the van (What will then work depends on how it is installed).

Battery from the previous pics (Your Romote Console V2 pic) is accepting 81amps of charge.

You have some DC loads running at 70w, so not sure what that may be if the Hymer panel is not working/on
Click to expand...
HYMER panel is not working. It just has a red flashing light on the display for battery levels.
 
OK thats good!

On a friends Hymer with the same panel he did a reset, which I think involved turning off the main battery switch then back on then pressing the panels power button for five seconds or some similar ritual that was in his manual - Sorry can't remember the details.
 
AdrianChen said:
OK thats good!

On a friends Hymer with the same panel he did a reset, which I think involved turning off the main battery switch then back on then pressing the panels power button for five seconds or some similar ritual that was in his manual - Sorry can't remember the details.
Click to expand...
Where would I find the main battery switch?
 
AdrianChen said:
OK thats good!

On a friends Hymer with the same panel he did a reset, which I think involved turning off the main battery switch then back on then pressing the panels power button for five seconds or some similar ritual that was in his manual - Sorry can't remember the details.
Click to expand...
Is that the switch on EB?

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I think the basic problem is that the Hymer panel has triggered its alarm for low battery, but can't tell that the battery is now charging because it's measuring zero amps into the battery. That's because you no longer use the EBL internal charger, and the panel is reading the amps in from the shunt that is inside the EBL.

I don't know how to reset the panel, maybe cutting all power to the EBL would do it. Maybe a fuse has blown. There is a 2A fuse near the leisure battery for the voltage sensor wires to measure the leisure battery voltage. If that fuse has blown then the EBL won't work. It's located next to the big Maxi fuse, 50A or 60A, near the leisure battery.
 
autorouter said:
I think the basic problem is that the Hymer panel has triggered its alarm for low battery, but can't tell that the battery is now charging because it's measuring zero amps into the battery. That's because you no longer use the EBL internal charger, and the panel is reading the amps in from the shunt that is inside the EBL.

I don't know how to reset the panel, maybe cutting all power to the EBL would do it. Maybe a fuse has blown. There is a 2A fuse near the leisure battery for the voltage sensor wires to measure the leisure battery voltage. If that fuse has blown then the EBL won't work. It's located next to the big Maxi fuse, 50A or 60A, near the leisure battery.
Click to expand...
I have just tested to fuses next to the EBL shown and they were all fine if one of those is the one you mean.

Do you know how I would cut all power to the EBL?



IMG_5178.jpeg
 
CutThroatJake have you determined whether discharge is turned on in the app ?
Charge is obviously turned on as the battery is accepting a charge.
If my LifePo4 turned discharge off to protect the battery from getting too low I would have to turn it back on in the app, it won't come back on on its own just because the battery is being charged.
 
headlight said:
CutThroatJake have you determined whether discharge is turned on in the app ?
Charge is obviously turned on as the battery is accepting a charge.
If my LifePo4 turned discharge off to protect the battery from getting too low I would have to turn it back on in the app, it won't come back on on its own just because the battery is being charged.
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Which is what I said earlier 😁
 
MichaelT said:
Which is what I said earlier 😁
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And so did I 2 pages ago lol.
I suggested he rang Vanbitz, who installed his kit, for them to talk him through accessing the app to check that discharge was on.

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CutThroatJake said:
I have just tested to fuses next to the EBL shown and they were all fine if one of those is the one you mean.

Do you know how I would cut all power to the EBL?
Click to expand...
Yes those were the fuses I meant. Are these near the Starter battery or the Leisure battery? These look like the Starter battery fuses - I would expect a 50A for the main power, 2A for the D+ (engine running) signal, and 20A for the and 20A for the fridge heater element. There should be another set of fuses near the other battery - at least a 50A for the main power and 2A for the voltage sensor wires.

If those fuses are all OK, then as a few have already said, could be that discharge needs to be turned on in the Battery App. If you're lucky the Hymer panel might reset itself once the 12V power comes back on.
 
headlight said:
CutThroatJake have you determined whether discharge is turned on in the app ?
Charge is obviously turned on as the battery is accepting a charge.
If my LifePo4 turned discharge off to protect the battery from getting too low I would have to turn it back on in the app, it won't come back on on its own just because the battery is being charged.
Click to expand...
I sent a picture of the BMS app to Steve at Roamer and he said all looks ok.

I’ll ask again about it just in case👍🏻
 
autorouter said:
Yes those were the fuses I meant. Are these near the Starter battery or the Leisure battery? These look like the Starter battery fuses - I would expect a 50A for the main power, 2A for the D+ (engine running) signal, and 20A for the and 20A for the fridge heater element. There should be another set of fuses near the other battery - at least a 50A for the main power and 2A for the voltage sensor wires.

If those fuses are all OK, then as a few have already said, could be that discharge needs to be turned on in the Battery App. If you're lucky the Hymer panel might reset itself once the 12V power comes back on.
Click to expand...
I’m not sure if they are the starter battery fuses or the leisure battery ones but I’ll have look round.

The space where the inverter is now is where the leisure batteries were originally before I changed to Roamer.
 
CutThroatJake said:
I sent a picture of the BMS app to Steve at Roamer and he said all looks ok.

I’ll ask again about it just in case👍🏻
Click to expand...
I thought that you said that you couldn't access the app to see if discharge was enabled ?

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