Hi,Honestly, I got it at half price and I know that there are Funsters who are far more experienced than me who will put me straight so I will keep it. It was bought as a back up to the 160Ah flexible roof panel and I do have a 300AH panel to go on the roof when The existing one dies.
Redundancy is the best policy
First of all, it's important for you to note that the "Ah" figures you stated as quoted above SHOULD actually be "W(atts)" for Solar Panels, and if you accidentally mix them up then any calculations using the "Ah" base would be meaningless.
Moving on to the Amazon Folding Panel you're querying, it's hard to give precise responses as the Listing Details & photos are quite vague ..... but here are my "best guesses" at hopefully useful info & observations :-
1) = I suspect the stated "30A Anderson Connector" is going to be the one you need to use to connect to either your existing Solar Controller ..OR.. direct to your 12v Batteries VIA a separate Controller ..... HOPEFULLY, the kit they supplied will include something like an "Anderson -TO- MC4-cable" adaptor (which many of these kits do have) ..... That would greatly simplify connecting this Panel to your existeng setup as you can then use standard MC-4 type extension cables for whatever length you need, but IF not supplied you would need to make or buy an adaptor (or similar).
2) = IIRC, Some posts have asked if your Folding Panel Kit could be connected directly to the batteries ..... Answer == Hell NO!! .... The voltage would be in excess of 20 volts and would fry/kill the batteries (and probably damage MANY other Vehicle electrical components or ECUs) ..... It should ONLY be connected to the vehicle batteries via either a seperate or your existing controller in order to bring the Charging Voltage down to the circa 12-14 Volt range.
3) - IF connecting to your existing Solasr Controller, you will need to ensure that it's AMP-Rating is high enough to handle BOTH your existing "160-Watt" roof Panel AND this new "200-Watt" panel (AND IDEALLY, your potential "Extra 300-Watt" roof-upgrade that you mentioned) ..... You should ALSO try to ensure that BOTH the 160 and the 200 Watt Panels are very close to each other in terms of "Open Circuit Voltage", namely 24-Volt(ish) as stated for the 200-Watt and (? PROBABLY/HOPEFULLY ?) the same for your existing 160-Watt (as 24-V OC is fairly standardish), because a LARGEish mis-match will work BUT will drag down the combined efficiency.
....... ASSUMING you have/use an MPPT controller, your existing 160-Watt panel could produce a max of around 12 AMPS, and the 200-Watt panel could produce a max of around 15-16 AMPS, so your controller would need to be able to handle a Combined-Load of around 28 AMPS in "Ideal" conditions, and I personally would suggest something like a 40-Amp unit for future growth.
4) = IF you opt for a separate controller for the new panel, you would need a circa 20 Amp controller, BUT I personally would STILL suggest something like a 40-Amp unit for future growth (namely your potential future Extra 300 Watt Roof-Panel Upgrade).
5) = In either case, it would be easy to wire a pair of short MC-4 tails to the Panel-Input of whatever controller you use (with the Controller-Output permanently wired to the Battteries as per your existing setup), and then the Portable Panel can easily & quickly be plugged on-the-fly into those tails from the MC-4 Panel-Cables as I mentioned in point-1 above.
Hope this helps, Cheers, Bob.
P,S, == Additional Edit ===
6) = I forgot to include that IF you opt to use a separate controller .... Ensure that it is connected to the Battery BEFORE you connect the Panel to the controller ..... As many controllers will FRY if Panels are connected without being hooked up to a battery.
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