EGR valve blanking/cheating

Techno100 said:
Another point to note
No amount of fuel additives will make a hapeth of difference to the throttle control valve or air intake duct. It gets filthy because it is recycling burnt gases and carries no fuel.
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I think the idea is that they work by becoming part of the exhaust gasses, & as such, do pass through the EGR system.
 
jay said:
I think the idea is that they work by becoming part of the exhaust gasses, & as such, do pass through the EGR system.
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I think the idea is that they keep the fuel lines pump injectors and valves clean. I don't think it will survive combustion enough otherwise you'd have a clean exhaust pipe :LOL:
 
Now I'm struggling to obtain a gasket Mister waste of time auto dot rubbish just refunded me :mad:
Corteco is the supplier and Andrewpage tell me they are not making more for at least 6 weeks Oh Please!
CORTECO 450360P FIAT : 504047974

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That's a pain in the proverbial - there must be someone with them surely or is the OEM part very expensive?
 
Just as scarce.
I can get one at £25 delivered :eek:
 
Mine is nearer 15k miles and I have put 5k on it in just over a year and I tend to drive it reasonably hard and do long runs so hopefully the inlet manifold won't be bad. Seems like a good idea to clean the EGR and get a blanking plate kit though! Like the idea of more power, better fuel consumption and less degrading of the oil and no more carbon deposits!
 
I bought this off cut of gasket sheet for the throttle valve to manifold.
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Enough for two, cheap as chips
CA_01141514200692-XL.jpg
 
Intake manifold gasket bought here
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Ref 71-38349-00
equal to
Fiat Iveco etc 504047974

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I can only assume it is belt and braces, a plate ensures absolutely no leakage past the EGR. It should be relatively easy to fit the plate by just unbolting the flexy connector and unless it rips I will use the original gasket if it comes away from the manifold cleanly and put a new gasket under the plate.
The problem is Tafmet's drawing shows studs which would make the above impossible, my manual shows bolts which would be OK

EGR%20bolts-L.jpg
 
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The Tafmet is scheduled to arrive tomorrow (Poland) . The gasket is coming from Germany. I'll fit the device as soon as the weather improves. I won't be removing the intake manifold for cleaning until I have the gasket in my hands. All in all pretty straight forward, just the Winter agin me.
 
Blanked off the egr valve on our Volvo V50 just after we bought it, just passed 150,000 miles and has sailed through every mot.

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I would have thought that spray carb-cleaner would allow a fair bit of the crud to wash out same as the flow sensor faults can be fixed with it. Trichlorethylene would be the same, better than cellulose thinners as it does not attack plastics the same.
 
Techno100 said:
To my knowledge the EGR is not part of an MOT only the emissions.
Yes your engine will be the same euro four.

Having quickly googled reference to legality it reveals that all US based websites say illegal but I cannot find the word used on UK based sites (only the GOV may make it illegal)
I found this good page on the EGR
http://www.weatherimagery.com/blog/diesel-engine-egr-bad/

A really good point is that the engine has an air filter to ensure a clean air supply and yet the EGR feeds shite back into the air intake duct UNFILTERED Oh Please! :LOL:
Also and engine burns 3% more fuel to overcome the EGR consequences and thus produces more pollution.

Thank you
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The article in the link states the facts with the exception of "soot will start to buildup in the oil and on other internal engine parts, including the intake turbo." Exhaust gas is introduced close to the cylinder head and doesn't pass through the turbo. Everything else is correct though.
 
Spot the difference!

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Perhaps the rest is for the 2 year warranty?
 
You can by 3 for less money :ROFLMAO:

However even the very cheapest is far more than the conversion to dispense with it's disservice
 
Look forward to seeing how that works out.

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Same seller is selling same item at £105 with 2 year
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both quoting Fiat 504121701
 
I have ordered a blanking plate for my Transit and it has a hole in it to keep something coming through the system to stop the sensors bringing on the warning messages. It is not very big but passes enough, however if that blocked off the engine would go to limp mode. It is claimed that reduction of the bypass reduced 3% + to the fuel consumption with a cleaner fuel burn for particulates.
 
WARNING WATER COOLED EGR PIPES
We don't post much on here or anywhere for that matter but thought our experiences need voicing to save others a fortune.
Firstly blank off the EGR pipe if you can, simple plate in one of the pipe joints. Has no affect on the MOT at all. Has no detrimental affect on the engine. If you run an EGR system the best that will happen is it works OK and your inlet manifold doesn't gum up (I do long fast journeys and mine still gums up on my other car), the worst that can happen is you have complete engine failure - read further.
We have a Ford Ranger 3 litre auto. The wife uses it as her car and we tow the fifth wheeler with it. Great truck, had no problem with it apart from this below, lovely to drive, tow's the fifth wheeler no problem.
But one day wife calls me, Ranger broke down, overheated, AA recovered, Nice AA man did his coolant check - yes combustion gases in coolant - head gasket gone. To cut a very long story short which took about 3 months of cost and frustration and stripping down of the cylinder head about 3 - 4 times in mid winter in my garage, new cylinder head, new cylinder head bolts, 3 head gaskets, water pump, thermostat, rad cap, etc etc. What was the original problem - THE EGR PIPE COOLER!!!!!!! All EGR systems have a pipe (usually stainless steel with a flexy bit in it) which bolts to the exhaust manifold and runs around to the other side of the engine and / or to the inlet manifold where an EGR valve sits which opens and closes to allow exhaust gas to run back through the inlet manifold and back into the engine to be re burnt to burn off some of the nasty's the tree huggers don't like (seriously I do take the environment seriously). So the exhaust gas is hot especially on turbo engines under load - the exhaust manifold to which this EGR pipe connects can glow red hot as there is heat build up behind the turbo. These hot gases go through the EGR valve and hit the much cooler inlet manifold, hence any oil stuff carried in the gases condense immediately on the colder inlet manifold - usually a lump of aluminium. That's why you get is gumming up. On many engines either the EGR pipe route is long enough to allow the gases to cool enough so they won't damage the EGR valve or cause problems in the inlet manifold. Hot gases or inlet charge into the engine reduced economy and power as the air mix is hotter and less dense hence it carries less oxygen and the bang for your buck in the engine is less meaning less power and less economy because the bang is less efficient. On turbo engines they go to a lot of trouble and cost to intercool the air going in - the big ali rad between the turbo and the inlet manifold is the intercooler, only dump a load of mucky hot air in there after it has been cooled. There are other negative issues on turbo engines with this too - the hotter the air the less turbo pressure the engine can take as the engine can pre detonate with hot air at turbo pressure, so the turbo pressure and the power / economy it produces is restricted / controlled by the ECU by dependant in the temp of the air going in.
The punch line here is on some engines the EGR pipe needs to be cooled to reduce the gas temp so it won't damage the EGR valve and / or reduce the efficiency of the engine due air that is too hot going in and to reduce the gunk condensing in the inlet manifold problem.
Some EGR pipe are water cooled; the pipe has a rad / heater type matrix in the middle of it - a box with passages in it which allow the gases to pass through and the box contains water which runs around the passages and cools the gas as it passes through. Clever stuff if it doesn't go wrong. The issue is if the passage leak the water - which is the coolant from the engine goes into the passages, down the EGR pipe into and through the engine and might come out as steam through the exhaust pipe - generally only light steam and very difficult to differentiate between exhaust gas / smoke or steam!! The coolant system is de pressurised as it has a leak through the EGR cooler, this in turn causes the coolant to over heat (it boils if not under pressure - water under pressure has a higher boiling point - pressure cooker principle) which in turn expands into the expansion tank from the rad and then overflows and the coolant is lost, the cylinder head overheats - warps and the head gasket fails, if this continues oil pressure is lost - overheat and bearing failure or head gasket fails into an oil pressure way - then BANG engine blows up.
We managed to catch it at the head gasket blow stage, replaced the cylinder head because we thought it was warped / cracked with the overheat - NOT it was the EGR cooler leaking which couldn't be found until the EGR cooler was taken off but still connected to the coolant pipe - feed and return - the coolant system was pressurised and the coolant leaked out of the gas pipe running through the cooler!!!!!!!!!!
I blanked off the EGR pipe at the exhaust manifold, took the coolant feed and return pipes off and connected them together allowing normal flow through the system excluding the EGR cooler. Fixed the - everything OK now. Apart from engine light on- fault code reads insufficient exhaust gas recirculation. I KNOW I have blanked it off. For now we run with the light on, it has been through 2 MOT's like this (my dad used to be an MOT tester and used to own an MOT testing station so we know what will pass and what will not and why EGR or not is no MOT problem). I could get a remap and an EGR delete on the ECU. Or I could get a new EGR cooler - new is loads of money and used is still nearly loadsa money (they must hold their price cos of failures and cost of new). But either way we don't want it and have to drive with one eye on the temp gauge!!!! We could run with the egr pipe connected but not coolant but the hot gas is likely to damage the egr valve causing later problems there. So better to run without!
SO I URGE YOU TO CHECK IF YOU AHAVE HAVE A WATER COOLED EGR PIPE AND BLANK IT OFF AND MOSTCONNECT THE COOLANT PIPES TOGETHER SO THEY CAN'T LEAK INTO THE COOLER. IF YOU WANT TO DO A FULL JOB GET AN EGR DELETE ON THE ECU.
THOSE WITH A 'IF IT AINT BROKE DONT MESS WITH IT MENTALITY', CHECK YOU HAVE RECOVERY AND WATCH THE TEMP GAUGE AND YOU HAVE ENOUGH CASH FOR A NEW ENGINE WORST CASE.
WE COULDN'T RUN FOR MORE THAN 3 MILES OF GENTLE DRIVING WITHOUT A COMPLETE OVERHEAT, SO YOU HAVE THAT MUCH TIME TO REACT AND SHUTDOWN BEFORE POSSIBLE ENGINE DAMAGE!
 
@PaulJaq I've never heard of and issue with the heat exchanger on any ducato boxer or relay engines.
3.0 litre version.
EGR heat exchanger.JPG

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