Desperately seeking electrician to fix lights and diesel heater in van

[TheBig1]

In my experience the ambulance is deactivated by cutting wires prior to auction to stop people playing silly sods with lights and sirens. Patient transport vehicles in some cases have a secondary role so have the sirens etc fitted. Tracing those cut wires involves hours of work or minutes by a specialist

 

[TheBig1]

Last one I looked at had half a metre of cabling removed so it would be difficult to reconnect

 

[autorouter]

In my experience the ambulance is deactivated by cutting wires prior to auction to stop people playing silly sods with lights and sirens. Patient transport vehicles in some cases have a secondary role so have the sirens etc fitted. Tracing those cut wires involves hours of work or minutes by a specialist

I don't know a lot about ambulance systems, but I think they have quite sophisticated systems that automatically prioritise all the devices. For example it might cut off the heater as the battery gets low, to save the power for an essential life-saving device running from the inverter. Also all the lights etc are incorporated and status displayed. That system is inappropriate for a motorhome, which is why most people remove the control system and replace it with a motorhome distribution/fusebox.

For the OP, these distribution/fuseboxes found in motorhomes are made by specialist electrics suppliers like Sargent, CBE, Nordelettronica etc. Motorhome manufacturers buy these in and install them, and they are available from motorhome component suppliers. There is usually a distribution/fusebox for the 12V systems, and a control panel to mount in a convenient location attached by a data wire. They also make a mains charger, mounted near the fusebox, for charging the leisure battery if you have 240V mains hookup.

Many people on this forum have installed a system like this as a DIY conversion of a panel van into a motorhome. Also there are specialist van conversion people who install these electrics boxes as part of the normal van-to-motorhome conversion process. Some of them advertise on this forum, and in fact some of them are members of this forum. So no shortage of advice and help here if that's what you decide you want to do.

 

[Ambulance]

Sounds great but also sounds expensive. Don't have the funds at the moment. Don't think our ambulance had all the lights and sirens so hopefully it might just be something simple. Fingers crossed!

 

[chaser]

As mentioned the systems are very different to motorhomes, and are very complicated. It would be nice to think that you maybe able to bypass the main brain and get certain items working. I have worked on motorhomes, and own one, I and have also fiddled with ambulances, but am far from an ambulance engineer. But I am local to you, so let me know if you are interested in me having a look and chatting through options.

Have you seen this offer to help from Landy Andy , did you contact him.
I'm afraid now you have used up all your free posts and unless you subscribe you won't be able to answer, I'm afraid there is not a lot more we can do now.
But at least this post will bump you to the top again for an hour or so.
Good luck with it, just wish you were closer to to help.

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[chaser]

Hi, I think you have taken my view the wrong way, no implying he was doing anything underhand .The OP has not said what conditions he bought his van under. I have no experience of dealing with base van. I have seen over time how stupidly high the prices that some vans are advertised for, but people must be happy to pay them so hes obviously good at business
On his video it didnt show any power to any of the inverter heater etc so assume its his standard practice and yes definately sales patter, it springs to mind of that expression Balls*hit baffles brains.
And it is fair to say why did the OP need to ask here instead of Rupert
And i dont see anything being underhand about disconnecting the power off unless of course he tells people things dont work and i dont know why.
As you say he sells a lot of the Renault vans and would know them inside out and if hes as helpfull as you hope the OP is in good hands

Reading this again, you have got to think,if the rear electrics were so important that it would have been part of the sale to see that they were working before buying it.

 

[PeterCarole29]

Reading this again, you have got to think,if the rear electrics were so important that it would have been part of the sale to see that they were working before buying it.

I guess if i was buying it i would be happy to buy without any of the rear stuff seen working but it would be reflected in the price and also if it was all working and shown to be working thethat also would reflect a higher price .
I assume as he is a dealer and has to maintain a good reputation its in his own interest to disconect the rear electrics selling the van as a BASE VAN which is his name with condition cannot warantee accessories is prudent. But its all speculation as i dont know. Maybe someone who does know could comment .

 

[PeterCarole29]

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. I did contact Rupert about the diesel heater and he told me the inverter needed to be switched on but he does seem very busy and I didn't want to keep pestering him. Thought it might be simpler to get help closer to home. I'm sure he'd have sorted it if I'd been able to get the van back to him but carer problems mean I can't. I might try the ambulance service it came from and see if anyone there has any experience of this sort of thing. If not I'll be back!

Thanks for the update i missed earlier

 

[chaser]

I guess if i was buying it i would be happy to buy without any of the rear stuff seen working but it would be reflected in the price and also if it was all working and shown to be working thethat also would reflect a higher price .
I assume as he is a dealer and has to maintain a good reputation its in his own interest to disconect the rear electrics selling the van as a BASE VAN which is his name with condition cannot warantee accessories is prudent. But its all speculation as i dont know. Maybe someone who does know could comment .

Yes but it is the most important thing to the op, if it's not working in the back it's no good.
Personally and believe me I have looked round loads, I have never seen one where the rear stuff wasn't working.
The disconnecting is more to do with the blue lights and sirens, if it's not had these ,they are not that different to just a van apart from loads of fuses any of which could be blown.
We don't know what the van he has ,has been used for and might be totally different.

 

[rod_vw]

My thoughts are to go back to basics..

This ambulance was probably sold by the local / ambulance authority via an auction. To remove them form any liability for incorrectly working or even dangerous items they isolated the specialist circuits.

If the OP is luck they only removed a main fuse, disconnected a main cable or less fortunately for the OP cut a main cable. If nothing works I would be searching with that in mind. Not saying that there is a fancy control box somewhere that will thwart most attempts at getting it all up and running but proving that there is power being fed into it would be a good start.

PS don't forget the -ve connection from the second battery, is that connected to the chassis ground and making a good connection?

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[autorouter]

Sounds great but also sounds expensive. Don't have the funds at the moment. Don't think our ambulance had all the lights and sirens so hopefully it might just be something simple. Fingers crossed!

I also hope it is something simple like a switch, blown fuse or disconnected wire. If it isn't, there are other options than a complete new electrics box that I mentioned. If you only want to get a few items up and running, then you could fit a simple fusebox. Wire it directly to the leisure battery - with a big fuse, maybe 50A. Then wire the necessary items directly to the fusebox. Maybe one of these. It has both positive and negative connections, so it's easy to connect the negative return.

Standard Blade Fuse Box With Positive & Negative Busbars - 6 Way

6 way standard blade fuse box with 2 positive busbars & 1 negative busbar. The -ve busbar is useful to common cables back to the battery -ve terminal.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

A suitable main fuse could be this one:

Midi Link Fuses

Midi link fuses used for protecting larger current circuits in automotive, marine and leisure applications. Available in current ratings from 30A to 150A.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

in a fuse holder:

Midi/Strip Link Fuse Holder

Single midi/strip link fuse holder with protective cover. Fuse & cable are secured via 2 x M5 studs. Cable size for this holder is 16mm² max.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

 

[autorouter]

I did contact Rupert about the diesel heater and he told me the inverter needed to be switched on but he does seem very busy and I didn't want to keep pestering him.

I think that may have been a misunderstanding, because the heater will almost certainly not be powered by the inverter. Most likely it's a diesel heater, with the main heating powered from diesel but controlled by a 12V circuit board running from the battery. Maybe there's a main 12V switch somewhere that powers both the inverter and the heater.

And you know what they say - if you want to get something done, ask a busy man.

 

[chaser]

I think that may have been a misunderstanding, because the heater will almost certainly not be powered by the inverter. Most likely it's a diesel heater, with the main heating powered from diesel but controlled by a 12V circuit board running from the battery. Maybe there's a main 12V switch somewhere that powers both the inverter and the heater.

And you know what they say - if you want to get something done, ask a busy man.

Right here is Rupert himself describing how to get the lights in the back to work, he is a bit of a waffler but stick with it ,there are various switches that have to be right.

 

[PeterCarole29]

Right here is Rupert himself describing how to get the lights in the back to work, he is a bit of a waffler but stick with it ,there are various switches that have to be right.

This video does show it may be simple for the OP. (front switch panel) i had the Papworth conversion and that had the same isolaters in the front when changing gear its easy to knock the switches.

 

[autorouter]

I think that may have been a misunderstanding, because the heater will almost certainly not be powered by the inverter.

I just noticed in that video in chaser's link, the Base Van man calls the mains charger an 'inverter', so maybe he also got the terminology mixed up talking to the OP. An inverter changes 12V DC to 240V AC mains. A mains charger does the opposite, converting 240V AC mains to 12V DC.

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[chaser]

I just noticed in that video in chaser's link, the Base Van man calls the mains charger an 'inverter', so maybe he also got the terminology mixed up talking to the OP. An inverter changes 12V DC to 240V AC mains. A mains charger does the opposite, converting 240V AC mains to 12V DC.

Yes I think we have done all we can now unless he subscribes, he sounds as if he needs help as quickly as he can but unless he helps himself I'm afraid we can do no more.
Shame, it's an interesting one, especially for me as we have never come across it before but he does seem to have a van with a different set of gizmos.

 

[Machbuster]

I have a disabled daughter who can only travel on a stretcher, so we bought a second hand ambulance- a Renault Master 2011. This has meant we can take my daughter to hospital appointments without having to wait around for NHS or pay a small fortune to have a private ambulance.
My problem is I can't get any of the electrics to work in the back of the van so no lights and can't get diesel heater to work. I've found the leisure battery and have charged it but still no joy. I have also found the inverter but the whole panel of switches in the back seems dead. (Very cold daughter!)
We live in Ware, Hertfordshire, and I wanted to ask if there is anyone near us (can't leave daughter on her own for long) who could help fix this? I have found someone in Bedfordshire (too far away) but nothing nearer. I am 75, my knowledge of van electrics is almost zilch so think I will need some professional help. Any suggestions?

I have had problems with my heater, my fridge, and the lights, all due to faulty print boards on a three years old moho. Good luck

 

[chaser]

Just a small one to add, I don't know if this is the common method, but on ours I think the diesel heater gets it's power from the starter battery not the leisure and will not work if the engine isn't charging, Ie the ignition must be switched on.
But as you see in the base van video he is selling them with the lights working so he hasn't cut them off.

 

[denisejoe]

Have you checked under the drivers seat for a kill switch for the back

 

[rod_vw]

Just a small one to add, I don't know if this is the common method, but on ours I think the diesel heater gets it's power from the starter battery not the leisure and will not work if the engine isn't charging, Ie the ignition must be switched on.
But as you see in the base van video he is selling them with the lights working so he hasn't cut them off.

Very strange having a 'night heater' that cannot be used at night. I always thought being able to use one overnight was the main idea of having it fitted.

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[chaser]

Very strange having a 'night heater' that cannot be used at night. I always thought being able to use one overnight was the main idea of having it fitted.

Have you ever noticed ambulances parked with the engine running, you now know why.

 

[chaser]

Very strange having a 'night heater' that cannot be used at night. I always thought being able to use one overnight was the main idea of having it fitted.

Would you seriously have one running all night, quite apart from the racket I would never trust one not to burst into flames.

 

[Spriddler]

Have you ever noticed ambulances parked with the engine running, you now know why.

And ice cream vans.

 

[Speve]

There are lots of auto electricians in and around Ware so he should be able to find someone to take a look

 

[Speve]

I wonder if ambulancekidd might be able to point him in the right direction

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[Landy Andy]

Very strange having a 'night heater' that cannot be used at night. I always thought being able to use one overnight was the main idea of having it fitted.

It isn’t a night heater for an ambulance it’s just a heater. The batteries are there for the life saving equipment oxygen, respirators and that sort of thing.
Although I think in this case the op has more of a transportation rather than an emergency ambulance so may well be different. The ambulances differ from aren’t area anyway as they are setup differently.

 

[chaser]

It isn’t a night heater for an ambulance it’s just a heater. The batteries are there for the life saving equipment oxygen, respirators and that sort of thing.
Although I think in this case the op has more of a transportation rather than an emergency ambulance so may well be different. The ambulances differ from aren’t area anyway as they are setup differently.

Well he hasn't been back so maybe he's sorted it now.

 

[Spriddler]

Well he hasn't been back so maybe he's sorted it now.

Maybe he's busy working. He/She's used all 5 freebies so might be a bit strapped to join.

Sounds great but also sounds expensive. Don't have the funds at the moment.

 

[chaser]

Maybe he's busy working. He/She's used all 5 freebies so might be a bit strapped to join.

He isn't working I think , he is 75

 

[Dazzola]

Would you seriously have one running all night, quite apart from the racket I would never trust one not to burst into flames.

I run mine through the night on occasion, last weekend in -5 temps it was on for 30hrs straight, no noise either, just a very gentle hum.

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