2KW diesel heater installed. Review, performance, sound, cost.

On YouTube, early times of this heater, yanks used it in many ways, and I remember that you can put the code in, and alter the minimum/ maxim settings. From memory the 1,3hz was the absolute lowest a 5kw can go with minimum soot build up. The 1.5 hz comes factory set, and it makes sense, mine dose not soot up, longest I had it for about 20 days non stop. Still the same heater, and haven’t serviced it in the past year, but did one service after first 2years. Now comes near it’s 4 year life. I may open it up in the summer. Not bad for a 90 quid heater.
 
On the old controller, if you adjust the hz, it will automatically suggest the desired fan speed for the given hz, to keep the mix right.
 
Yup, on mine it automatically adjusts the fan speed depending on the Hz.
 
Yup, on mine it automatically adjusts the fan speed depending on the Hz.

They all do that, but is it the correct fan speed for an efficient and clean burn and looking at your sooted-up burn chamber it would appear not.
My 5kw heater normally runs a 1.5Hz once the van has heated and when I stripped it down a couple of weeks back for a blocked atomising hole the burn chamber was as clean as a whistle after nearly 4 years.
 
Here's a graph of the fan speed to Hz as the 5kw heaters leave the factory, but not all heaters are exactly the same due to sometimes poorer manufacturing tolarances which is why you can have some people's heaters run as clean as a whistle while others have some shooting up problems.

1703969200300.png

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Usually the sooting up of diesel heaters is caused by the incorrect fuel to air ratio resulting in an incomplete burn of the fuel leading to the sooting up.
This is normally due to over fuelling and causes high levels of carbon monoxide as well.
You used to be able to tune the Chinese diesel heaters by adjusting the fan speed via the controller menu to get lower CO levels, but the ECU's in the newer heaters have been evolving so I do not know if this is still possible.
Because I'm running an Afterburner heater controller I have the ability to adjust the fan speed at the lowest and highest fuel pump Hz and by adjusting these fan speeds along with a CO meter at the end of the exhaust pipe I can tune my heaters to very low CO levels which in turn is a clean burn of the fuel.

View attachment 849498

This is the CO meter that I use, it cheaper than most but does the job well.
Amazon product ASIN B083Y37JTJ

David McLuckie did this video on adjusting the fuel/air ratio for a cleaner burn.


Tried getting into the settings menu. The settings button does nothing on my unit sadly.
 
They all do that, but is it the correct fan speed for an efficient and clean burn and looking at your sooted-up burn chamber it would appear not.
My 5kw heater normally runs a 1.5Hz once the van has heated and when I stripped it down a couple of weeks back for a blocked atomising hole the burn chamber was as clean as a whistle after nearly 4 years.
My 4/5KW heaters have not had an issue and one has been in regular use one and off frequently for a year now.

I think this is specific to my 2KW one as it is never seeing a high temperature to clean the burn chamber. My 4KW ones are on and off regular and on start up ramp up to high speed at the start and get very hot until the room is up to temp.

I understand what you are saying. But I think in my case it is simply I am running it cool and not getting full combustion. Running it hotter would probably cure the problem but leave me in a sweat box.
 
Tried getting into the settings menu. The settings button does nothing on my unit sadly.
That's a bummer, although the ECUs are interchangeable so you could change to an earlier ECU if you came across one.
I bought a couple of the earlier ECU's as spares when it was becoming apparent that the ECU's where changing and not for the better.
 
Two on Tour what is the body temperature of your unit when you are running it at the lowest setting.

Mine is currently 142°C which is a lot cooler than the 185°C I saw early when I ran it at maximum to burn in.

I honestly don't know on this and the information out there is contradictory but some of it is consistent with basic logic. So. I will try doing a high temp burn periodically. If this one soots up I will try something else.
I am not going to be getting an afterburner though as I don't need any of the features. I just want a heater to work on the lowest setting reliably. Nothing more nothing less.
 
My 4/5KW heaters have not had an issue and one has been in regular use one and off frequently for a year now.

I think this is specific to my 2KW one as it is never seeing a high temperature to clean the burn chamber. My 4KW ones are on and off regular and on start up ramp up to high speed at the start and get very hot until the room is up to temp.

I understand what you are saying. But I think in my case it is simply I am running it cool and not getting full combustion. Running it hotter would probably cure the problem but leave me in a sweat box.

Normally the burn chamber temperature is required to be no lower than 125C to get complete combustion if the fuel/air ratio is correct and as I remember from earlier in this thread or another post of yours you were running over 125C on your low Hz setting.

Edit : was typing when you posted your last post, so have just seen your burn chamber temperature.

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Two on Tour what is the body temperature of your unit when you are running it at the lowest setting.

Mine is currently 142°C which is a lot cooler than the 185°C I saw early when I ran it at maximum to burn in.

I honestly don't know on this and the information out there is contradictory but some of it is consistent with basic logic. So. I will try doing a high temp burn periodically. If this one soots up I will try something else.
I am not going to be getting an afterburner though as I don't need any of the features. I just want a heater to work on the lowest setting reliably. Nothing more nothing less.

My low Hz is set at 1.5Hz and I keep my burn chamber temperature at 135C or thereabouts as although the heater is running at 1.5Hz the Afterburner adjusts the fuel rate to maintain the hab area temperature thermostat setting.

As my heater is mounted externally under our van, although the heater itself and the ducting are insulated, I have fitted a wireless servo-operated flap valve to the house air intake to fine-tune the chamber temperature to keep it at about 135C if the outside temperature drops away overnight and lowers the heater casing temperature.
 
The other thing is that the Chinese 2kw heater fuel dosing pumps used to be 18ml as per the Eberspacher and Webasto diesel heaters, but it seems that they are all now supplied with the 22ml pumps the same as is used for the Chinese 5kw heaters.
 
Just had a thought. I have one of these silencers. The exhaust pipe comes out from under the van then goes to the ground at a constant slope with the silencer on the end.
A similar but shallower angle to the image below. I am wondering. Is it possible that the condensation sat in the corner and whilst not immediately blocking the exhaust was sitting there absorbing soot until it did restrict the air flow and which then caused more soot in a vicious cycle. I am only speculating now. If I move the silencer so it is level and the drainhole is the lowest point this should fix the soot problem? I very much doubt it is this, but as I have said before I am no expert on this.

I will pull the old one to pieces next week and see what state it is in inside.


1703972022381.png
 
My low Hz is set at 1.5Hz and I keep my burn chamber temperature at 135C or thereabouts as although the heater is running at 1.5Hz the Afterburner adjusts the fuel rate to maintain the hab area temperature thermostat setting.

As my heater is mounted externally under our van, although the heater itself and the ducting are insulated, I have fitted a wireless servo-operated flap valve to the house air intake to fine-tune the chamber temperature to keep it at about 135C if the outside temperature drops away overnight and lowers the heater casing temperature.
ok. so 142°C is not too low then.
I am left with
a) need to run high temp occassionally. Which happens under normal use cases where people turn them on and off.
b) Fuel mix is wrong and I am stuffed.
c) I cocked up with the silencer.
 
ok. so 142°C is not too low then.
I am left with
a) need to run high temp occassionally. Which happens under normal use cases where people turn them on and off.
b) Fuel mix is wrong and I am stuffed.
c) I cocked up with the silencer.
a) try and see if this improves or solves to soot build up.
b) my suspicions are that you are overfueling and would a 18ml pump be worth a try?
c) I don't think that your exhaust run is the cause of your sooting.
I run my exhaust only a few degrees of fall over its length which is about 1.8m. The silencers have a condensation drain hole at the bottom of the silencer as per the arrow.


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I think a simple rule to a long trouble free life of these heaters is-
Run them on the hz settings instead of the standard maximum on startup and gradually turns down as the temperature rises.
You can access this in the menu, so use the remote fob to startup, set a reasonably high run speed for a bit, then turn it down to a continuous low level.
Before turning the heater off run it up higher by using the remote fob, 10 mins on level 7 or 8 will do.
I use mine like this ever day through winter as my vans a daily driver, so usually twice a day for an hour or so, then when we need it at weekends.
My heater has never failed to work perfectly.
Also, all the brand names are made in the same place in China, just buy the cheapest, I think mine was £79 last year.
Some controllers look the same but have a different settings button, either a cog, star or spanner symbol, these all use a different method to programme.
 
I run my exhaust only a few degrees of fall over its length which is about 1.8m. The silencers have a condensation drain hole at the bottom of the silencer as per the arrow.
I know about the drain hole. The way I had it set up the drain hole was level with the lowest point of the outlet leaving a triangle shaped area where condensation could rest.
I will take a picture tomorrow if I am not clear.
 
I think a simple rule to a long trouble free life of these heaters is-
Run them on the hz settings instead of the standard maximum on startup and gradually turns down as the temperature rises.
You can access this in the menu, so use the remote fob to startup, set a reasonably high run speed for a bit, then turn it down to a continuous low level.
Before turning the heater off run it up higher by using the remote fob, 10 mins on level 7 or 8 will do.
I use mine like this ever day through winter as my vans a daily driver, so usually twice a day for an hour or so, then when we need it at weekends.
My heater has never failed to work perfectly.
Also, all the brand names are made in the same place in China, just buy the cheapest, I think mine was £79 last year.
Some controllers look the same but have a different settings button, either a cog, star or spanner symbol, these all use a different method to programme.
Mine is run in Hz mode. It is run 24/7 currently because I live in the van. It is on the lowest setting because anything higher causes the van to get too hot. :)
 
Where does this Hz stuff come from?
My 2kw has options of mode 1 to 6, always starts on 3, or temperature. It tells me my heater internals get to 202 centigrade.

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Where does this Hz stuff come from?
My 2kw has options of mode 1 to 6, always starts on 3, or temperature. It tells me my heater internals get to 202 centigrade.

Hz is the rate at which the fuel dosing pump pumps at.
Hertz is the internationally recognised system of measuring frequency (rate/speed) and one Hz is one event (cycle) per second, two Hz two events per second and so on.
These are the same Hz that radio frequencies are measured in.

The heater fuel pumps are a solenoid and each time 12v is applied to the pump the pump pushes a fixed amount of fuel which is normally 22ml.
The 12v to the pump is switched on and off which makes the pump pulse to pump fuel and the frequency (rate/speed) at which the pump pulses is measured in Hz.
The rate at which the fuel is delivered to the heater governs the heat it will produce and some diesel heaters use the pump Hz rate to indicate this while others just use a number scale as with yours.
 
Hz is the rate at which the fuel dosing pump pumps at.
Hertz is the internationally recognised system of measuring frequency (rate/speed) and one Hz is one event (cycle) per second, two Hz two events per second and so on.
These are the same Hz that radio frequencies are measured in.

The heater fuel pumps are a solenoid and each time 12v is applied to the pump the pump pushes a fixed amount of fuel which is normally 22ml.
The 12v to the pump is switched on and off which makes the pump pulse to pump fuel and the frequency (rate/speed) at which the pump pulses is measured in Hz.
The rate at which the fuel is delivered to the heater governs the heat it will produce and some diesel heaters use the pump Hz rate to indicate this while others just use a number scale as with yours.
Thanks for that.

So it is nothing for me to be concerned with, as I can’t adjust it.
 
Thanks for that.

So it is nothing for me to be concerned with, as I can’t adjust it.
Your adjustments are in the presets power level, 1...6 etc. Each power level will have a set amount of hertz.
 
Where does this Hz stuff come from?
My 2kw has options of mode 1 to 6, always starts on 3, or temperature. It tells me my heater internals get to 202 centigrade.
Our panel has an advanced setup on one of the screen menus that lets you set Hz and other stuff on the display if you enter a code - the default code is usually 1688 although some are 9009

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I’ve only just installed mine, and it’s in my Defender (keep dog warm), due to this I don’t run it long, or high, so trying to avoid problems, and anything to calm the heater would be good. Although I do get some white smoke on start up, sometimes, so is over fuelling then. May try and see if I have any info written on my pump. Hopefully it is a 18ml but if bigger may swap to a smaller one.
 
Our panel has an advanced setup on one of the screen menus that lets you set Hz and other stuff on the display if you enter a code - the default code is usually 1688 although some are 9009
My display
IMG_1626.jpeg
 
looks fairly similar to ours. If you scroll with the top left button and get 4 bars you can then enter the code to access the advanced setup. Entering the code and changing settings was quite clunky and I can't remember exactly how I did it but I did get there in the end.

heater.png
 
So what is the lowest steady-state output in kW for these heaters with a clean, reliable burn? I note maxspeedingrods sell 2, 5 and 8kW that all, on the face of it, work fine as low as 1kW.

Dave
 
So what is the lowest steady-state output in kW for these heaters with a clean, reliable burn? I note maxspeedingrods sell 2, 5 and 8kW that all, on the face of it, work fine as low as 1kW.

Dave
No idea on the heat output to be honest. Very hard to determine :( But my 2KW diesel heater is replacing my 2KW gas heater and I don't know the lowest heat output on that either :p

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