Prague

I had thought of returning to Prague many times since we last visited in 2006. It had become our go to place. The food and beer was cheap it was full of culture and beautiful places to visit. I had first gone in 1999 with a mate from work while Angela visited her relatives in America. We had then gone together the next year and then the year after that with 8 others. We went again on our own in 2004 and then with another couple in 2006. Every year it had got more and more commercialised. For example the first year I went I brought back some traditional wooden Russian dolls. In 2001 there were Russian dolls with Russian leaders instead of the traditional ones (still bought one). By the time we went in 2006 there were not only Man Utd Russian dolls (with Paul Scholes as the tiny one :) and David Beckham the biggest) but American football players. Also MacDonalds had moved in.
I wanted to see if it had got any worse but really wanted to go in the Motorhome. If you look on google maps, to the north are what look like campsites in someones back garden.
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The one with the best reviews was Camp Dana. I had emailed the site when we arrived at Cesky Krumlov and got a reply straight away with a link to pay a deposit.
We arrived 6th June and were given a spot in the blokes garden. I must say now, in case anyone goes here, the bloke is the absolute double of John Malkovich. He even spoke like him. We got there at about 3pm and after getting set up we went into town to have a look around.

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Now I regard myself as a bit of a football fan. It was either fantastic planning on my behalf or terrible planning, that the day we arrive, so did 20,000 west ham fans for the europa conference league final. When we set foot in the square all we could hear was cockney chants singing and thousand of football shirts. We knew nothing about it.
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We turned around and went back over the Charles bridge towards the castle to try and get away from them.
To be fair we never saw them away from the square. I'm sure some did venture further afield but got the distinct impression they all flew in and stayed in the bars draining them of lovely Czech beer.
We got a good sunset over the castle as it got dark.
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The next day (final day) we thought it would be best to avoid the square again. Walking out the site we suddenly realised the site was full of Italians.
We got the tram from the stop 100 yards from the campsite. This takes you straight into Prague center. Its only about €2. For this the ticket is valid for a set time of about 30mins. You can get a day ticket, the campsite sold them but there was no point if you just went in once a day. Dogs are okay carried and we did see bigger dogs as well. They all go free.
We always got off and on at the Charles bridge. Everywhere in Prague is within easy walking distance. The only tiring bit is the walk up to the castle but you can stop off for beer halfway up.
There were a few places I wanted to take Paul and Ang. The first was St James church in the old town.
In here is a withered mummyfied arm hanging from a chain to the right of the entrance.
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Legend has it a thief climbed up to steal the jewels from the statue of Mary at the front of the church.
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The statue didn't like this and grabbed the thiefs arm and wouldn't let go so they had to cut it off. They hung it up as a warning.
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Talking of hanging I have no idea what this is about.
After this we went to the Golden tiger. We had been here before and the walls are covered with anything to do with a tiger. When a group of us went years ago, we took a Hull City pendant (The Tigers). The bloke was very impressed and thanked us but I reckon it went straight in the bin as we never saw it hung up. This is where Bill Clinton came for a pint in 1994 after the velvet revolution. It was a bit too close to the square and was very busy so we went to U Fleku. This pub has been here since 1499 and they make their own dark beer. It is a bit touristy and they try and make you buy shots of Becherovka by offering it to you as if it is free and then mark it down on your bill. The beer is really nice and not too strong.
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They sell a really nice goulash but it was full of Fiorentino fans so after a few beers we headed across to the castle.
The first time I came here we found the John Lennon wall. This was a plain wall near the castle that someone had drawn a large picture of John Lennon on.
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Lennon wall 2001.
When we got there it was swarming with Japanese again. All doing the obligatory pose and V sign.
Now John Lennon had been covered over in perspex much like a Banksy and it was horrible. It had been covered in stickers and graffiti. The difference in the pictures speaks volumes.
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After this disappointment we carried on up to the castle. Thankfully this hadn't changed much if at all.

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Don't know what this is all about tho.
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Steps up to castle.
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Loreto pilgrimage.
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Palace and Castle entrance.
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Inside the palace and castle church
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Steps down into Prague town center.
At the foot of the steps we found a nice restaurant with decent prices and had goulash with dumplings.
We crossed the Charles bridge again and caught the tram back.
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Next day as West Ham had won we thought about giving the center a miss. Not far from us was Trojsky chateau. John Malkovich had suggested it, so we had a walk down to it. When we got there it was shut for a private function.
Across from it was a botanical garden so we went in there. Not my cup of tea but there was some massive butterflies if you are interested in that sort of thing. Angela stayed outside with Sam.
One of the things we was after was another Remoska. We had the large one at home and the small one for the van (400w in case you dont know). They sell them in lakeland back home but are very expensive. In Prague (where they come from) they are less than half the price. Paul and Ang had been impressed with ours, especially the baked potatoes and wanted one. We found an electrical store at the opposite end of the park so went to have a look. We bought the last two in the store. We bought another as they now have a removable cable.
We went back to try out a few more Czech beers we had bought at Tesco. BTW John Malkovich has a nice selection of beers for sale in his reception.
The next day we went back into Prague. We started at Cafe Louvre, a 100 year old cafe where dissidents plotted against the government apparently.
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I got this info from a Micheal Palin doc but when I got home I found I had got the wrong one.
We got to the square to witness the astrocomical clock as we called it. The same happened this time as it had twenty years ago. We got there at 10 to 12. and there was already a big crowd. We waited patiently and at twelve a skeleton started ringing a bell and a few things moved at the windows. The Paul said "Is that it, you're having a laff" Hence our name.
The clock was built in the 1400s and marks out the movement of the planets hence the Astronomical bit. Rumour has it that when it was finished the town council didn't want the builder Hanus to build another one for a rival town. So broke into his house and blinded him with red-hot pokers. He asked his assistant to lead him to the inner part of the astronomical clock where he put his hand into the machine and stopped the clock. For the next hundred years, no one was able to repair the machine, due to its complexity.
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I think its great by the way. You can go up the tower and get a good view of the town from the top.
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The rest of the square is surrounded by beautiful buildings. After a quick beer we headed for the jewish quarter. This is where we had always stayed in years gone by in apartments overlooking the graveyard.

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Then back to the square for something to eat. A nice way to see the town is in an old Skoda. Quite expensive though you can get about six people in.
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Prague had not disappointed us and Paul and Ang were impressed. Yes it had become more touristy and a lot busier than we were last here but 500 year old building don't change much.

We stayed at https://campdana.cz/en

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