We set off on the 26th August with a crossing booked for Wednesday 28th August but we thought about having a couple of days in Canterbury. We had been before but was a few years ago.
After replacing a dead water pump we wandered around Canterbury. We always stop at the park and ride and always see the same vans. One in particular has been there since last October. Not sure how I feel about it really. On the one hand there has always been room on the other it's taking the piss.
Next day crossed on the Chunnel with the last of the Tesco vouchers and headed for Arras. For some reason I had booked an early crossing at 8am. So we are off at 9 am because they put us on an earlier train. Just time to get some proper beer whilst going through France.
If you like your beer you will know about Westvleteren, Trappist beer brewed by monks. If we have a later crossing we always go to the Sixtus Brewery restaurant where you can overnight on the car park. Beer is 12° but like rocking horse stuff. You have to order on a website for pick up at a further date etc etc. Not far away is its related brewery St Bernardus which make a very similar beer. It has a new bar and shop where you can buy all the paraphernalia and the beer.
A case heavier and 44€ lighter we set off for Arras. We get to the aire in the centre before dinner and set up and walk off into town. In the square we have another Trappist beer and drink to the memory of my distant uncles.
After replacing a dead water pump we wandered around Canterbury. We always stop at the park and ride and always see the same vans. One in particular has been there since last October. Not sure how I feel about it really. On the one hand there has always been room on the other it's taking the piss.
Next day crossed on the Chunnel with the last of the Tesco vouchers and headed for Arras. For some reason I had booked an early crossing at 8am. So we are off at 9 am because they put us on an earlier train. Just time to get some proper beer whilst going through France.
If you like your beer you will know about Westvleteren, Trappist beer brewed by monks. If we have a later crossing we always go to the Sixtus Brewery restaurant where you can overnight on the car park. Beer is 12° but like rocking horse stuff. You have to order on a website for pick up at a further date etc etc. Not far away is its related brewery St Bernardus which make a very similar beer. It has a new bar and shop where you can buy all the paraphernalia and the beer.
A case heavier and 44€ lighter we set off for Arras. We get to the aire in the centre before dinner and set up and walk off into town. In the square we have another Trappist beer and drink to the memory of my distant uncles.
Part two: War, what is it good for.
So we are in Arras with the sole reason of researching my late uncles. My brother had done the family tree years ago but there wasn't much detail and he had made a couple of mistakes. My mother had died in 1997 and she had loads of photos some were obviously very old but were like postcards.
One was of a gravestone of my mother's grandparents.
Under was a mention of William Wilkinson of the East Yorkshire Regiment with the date 5th November 1916. From here it was easy to trace where the regiment were etc.
William was in the 7th Battalion of the East Yorkshire regiment. On the 5th November 1916, during the Battle of the Somme, William died attacking the Germans at Le Transloy.
A photo of who I believe is William as it was kept with the above picture of the grave.
Reading the orders received the evening before is interesting.
Williams company attacked in the morning and this seems to have failed quite quickly. The next company attacked at 10pm but a notice was received at ten to nine not to go ahead if the attack had failed in the morning.
He is remembered along with thousands of others at the Thiepval Memorial. So we set off here the next day.
I had the location of his inscription from the war graves commision website.
The place is vast. There are 72337 missing soldiers rembered here and this is just from the Somme.
The other grandparents of my mother on her father's side was a mention of Albert Linwood who died 9th April 1917. I found a regiment diary from his regiment which had them at Ronville tunnels in Arras the day before he died.
After more "digging" these tunnels where old mining tunnels hundreds of years old where the stone to build Arras was taken from.
In Arras there is now a museum where you can enter these tunnels. These tunnels are the same as when Albert went through them in 1917.
I thoroughly recommend a visit to these tunnels.
They were used again during WW2 as air raid shelters. The tunnels went far into no mans land and sometimes right up to where the German troop were dug in. When the soldiers appeared from the tunnels a lot of Germans surrendered or ran away.
It seems they were attacking a place called Telegraph Hill. Albert was reported missing on the 9th and his body was found on the 10th of April near to Telegraph Hill.
I managed to find Telegraph Hill by comparing the WW1 maps and Google. Amazingly Telegraph hill is still there, mainly due to the concrete bunkers that are still in place, meaning it cannot be used for farmland.
Albert was identified by his personal possessions which included a picture of his wife Hetty Clipson, who he had married before he went to war the previous year.
Alberts remains were buried at the Tilloy British War Memorial. We went to visit and after a short search found his grave.
One was of a gravestone of my mother's grandparents.
Under was a mention of William Wilkinson of the East Yorkshire Regiment with the date 5th November 1916. From here it was easy to trace where the regiment were etc.
William was in the 7th Battalion of the East Yorkshire regiment. On the 5th November 1916, during the Battle of the Somme, William died attacking the Germans at Le Transloy.
A photo of who I believe is William as it was kept with the above picture of the grave.
Reading the orders received the evening before is interesting.
Williams company attacked in the morning and this seems to have failed quite quickly. The next company attacked at 10pm but a notice was received at ten to nine not to go ahead if the attack had failed in the morning.
He is remembered along with thousands of others at the Thiepval Memorial. So we set off here the next day.
I had the location of his inscription from the war graves commision website.
The place is vast. There are 72337 missing soldiers rembered here and this is just from the Somme.
The other grandparents of my mother on her father's side was a mention of Albert Linwood who died 9th April 1917. I found a regiment diary from his regiment which had them at Ronville tunnels in Arras the day before he died.
After more "digging" these tunnels where old mining tunnels hundreds of years old where the stone to build Arras was taken from.
In Arras there is now a museum where you can enter these tunnels. These tunnels are the same as when Albert went through them in 1917.
I thoroughly recommend a visit to these tunnels.
They were used again during WW2 as air raid shelters. The tunnels went far into no mans land and sometimes right up to where the German troop were dug in. When the soldiers appeared from the tunnels a lot of Germans surrendered or ran away.
It seems they were attacking a place called Telegraph Hill. Albert was reported missing on the 9th and his body was found on the 10th of April near to Telegraph Hill.
I managed to find Telegraph Hill by comparing the WW1 maps and Google. Amazingly Telegraph hill is still there, mainly due to the concrete bunkers that are still in place, meaning it cannot be used for farmland.
Albert was identified by his personal possessions which included a picture of his wife Hetty Clipson, who he had married before he went to war the previous year.
Alberts remains were buried at the Tilloy British War Memorial. We went to visit and after a short search found his grave.
Part 3 - The rest of France
After visiting the WW1 sites we continued south a few miles to Gerberoy. A beau village.
I always take these villages with a pinch of salt as the Tres Beau Village set up is that the village pays to join and is therefore guarenteed some visitors. They are usually dead. All the same most are quite pretty.
We only stopped for lunch and a quick look around. After a half hour it started to rain so we got back to the van sharpish.
Lyons la Foret (Aug 30th 2024)
So we then head for another "Beau village" a few miles away called Lyons la Foret. I told Angela thats this translates to Lions in the Forest and there are still wild packs of Lions around the village but only a few tourists are attacked each year. I got the look that an angry tiger would have been proud of.
There is a Camping Car Aire next to a campsite just outside the village. The Campsite has a bar that serves food and beer.
We had a walk into town and arrived by chance on the 80th anniversary of the liberation of the place. There was a little service going on with the mayor and towns folk which we felt like we was interupting. We went back to the center for a mooch while everyone was at the ceremony.
Lovely town square which is not a square but a triangle. Had a beer cos it's rude not to. Even if it is expensive.
Apparently Henry I of England died here after eating at a local establishment even though tripadviser told him not to. We decided to eat in the van.
Beaulieu-sur-Loire (Sep 1st 2024)
I had pencilled in the aire near the worlds biggest aqua duct (in 2003) at Briare built by the Eiffel company who made the tower in Blackpool, but couldn't find a route to it so we went on to another CCP that's taken over a municipal. Beaulieu-sur-Loire is just a few miles down and on the canal.
St Pierre (Sep 2nd 2024)
The next day we had a short drive down to St Pierre after filling up with diesel and groceries at Leclerc. Yet another municipal taken over by the CCP, again on the edge of town. Nice little town but dead. Not one shop or bar open. The town was liberated in 1429 by Joan of Arc. She must be wondering why she bothered.
La Couvertoirade (Sep 3rd 2024)
The medieval village of La Couvertoirade was founded in the 14th century by the Knights Templar. Yet another Beau village but which is actually open and worth visiting. Car park is 5 euro but you can park overnight. You can buy a tickey on the way to the village after you park up. You then use this at the barrier when leaving.
I enjoyed this village, you can tell the locals are proud of it. There is a museum where you get an information film about the place and then go and visit the places they describe. You can also walk around the walls, even though its only a few yards you get a good view over the rooftops, all for 3 euro.
This was our last stop in France on the way down to Spain.
I always take these villages with a pinch of salt as the Tres Beau Village set up is that the village pays to join and is therefore guarenteed some visitors. They are usually dead. All the same most are quite pretty.
We only stopped for lunch and a quick look around. After a half hour it started to rain so we got back to the van sharpish.
Lyons la Foret (Aug 30th 2024)
So we then head for another "Beau village" a few miles away called Lyons la Foret. I told Angela thats this translates to Lions in the Forest and there are still wild packs of Lions around the village but only a few tourists are attacked each year. I got the look that an angry tiger would have been proud of.
There is a Camping Car Aire next to a campsite just outside the village. The Campsite has a bar that serves food and beer.
We had a walk into town and arrived by chance on the 80th anniversary of the liberation of the place. There was a little service going on with the mayor and towns folk which we felt like we was interupting. We went back to the center for a mooch while everyone was at the ceremony.
Lovely town square which is not a square but a triangle. Had a beer cos it's rude not to. Even if it is expensive.
Apparently Henry I of England died here after eating at a local establishment even though tripadviser told him not to. We decided to eat in the van.
Beaulieu-sur-Loire (Sep 1st 2024)
I had pencilled in the aire near the worlds biggest aqua duct (in 2003) at Briare built by the Eiffel company who made the tower in Blackpool, but couldn't find a route to it so we went on to another CCP that's taken over a municipal. Beaulieu-sur-Loire is just a few miles down and on the canal.
St Pierre (Sep 2nd 2024)
The next day we had a short drive down to St Pierre after filling up with diesel and groceries at Leclerc. Yet another municipal taken over by the CCP, again on the edge of town. Nice little town but dead. Not one shop or bar open. The town was liberated in 1429 by Joan of Arc. She must be wondering why she bothered.
La Couvertoirade (Sep 3rd 2024)
The medieval village of La Couvertoirade was founded in the 14th century by the Knights Templar. Yet another Beau village but which is actually open and worth visiting. Car park is 5 euro but you can park overnight. You can buy a tickey on the way to the village after you park up. You then use this at the barrier when leaving.
I enjoyed this village, you can tell the locals are proud of it. There is a museum where you get an information film about the place and then go and visit the places they describe. You can also walk around the walls, even though its only a few yards you get a good view over the rooftops, all for 3 euro.
This was our last stop in France on the way down to Spain.
Part 4 - Spain pt 1 Offal and Churches
Roses (Sep 4th 2024)
We had been getting warnings about an impending storm for days.
It was everywhere so we couldn't avoid it so we thought we would be better on a site. Keep getting told how nice Roses is by lots of people, so we had to have a look. Firstly it is absolutely rammed with french motorhomes. All campsites full, backstreets full and Aires full, all full of french who don't like us because we don't like them. We squeezed onto a large aire near town that had three places left out of 67 and this was 11:30am. (To be fair we could have got on a campsite for 56 euro per night but with 5% off if we spent more than three nights we politly declined).
With umbrella in hand we walked to the seafront which was like a lot of other Spanish seaside places. Secondly there are a lot more people selling trainers etc. They don't go around with a bag they set up shop in the street. Thirdly though it is quite nice and reasonably cheap which is why the french just nip over.
We found a nice bar for a drink and sat for an hour.
The next day we had a walk the other way (north) along the front and into the town itself. I can see why lots of people come here. Weather was a bit kinder so we had a beer at another nice bar selling Belgian beers.
Empuriabrava (Sep 6th 2024)
So we got up early to travel to the next site 2.8 miles away. Mas Nou is a big site next to Europe's largest residential marina with 24km of navigable waterways. (So says Mr Wikipedia). The site is 21 euro with ACSI and so is full again by 3 o'clock. Due to everywhere being full we decide to stay here for the weekend to do some washing. Big Mercadona outside the entrance and a massive Chinese shop opposite that. The site has a bar and resteraunt over the road so we had a look. They were playing obscure prog music over the outside speakers, of which I am a fan of, so we decide to have something to eat. As soon as we sit down the Rush album track from 1978 is replaced by Baby Shark and the stage opposite has two spanish pontins kiddies entertainers. Lots of kids and parents now turn up and sing along to it. The grumpy old b...... that I am does not.
While we were here we had a quick look at the marina and it's just like a housing estate with canals. We were going to bike to the beach but it was not obvious which way to go once in the middle of the floating council estate. It goes on for miles. The weather had now picked up and we decided it was twot to do anything so chilled at the van and watched the thousands of swallows catching flies.
Girona (Sep 9th 2024)
My parents had visited Spain in the 70s and 80s and as I was a teenager I was not interested in going with them. I would rather have the house to myself. I had a few pictures of them in various places but did not know where they were. Now with google lens you can find out where these places are. One of these was the cathedral at Girona. They must have gone on a bus trip as the never drove.
Girona looked nice and there was an aire right in the centre, a bit expensive, but good location.
We walked into the center and was there in 15mins. The cathedral is quite impressive but the stairs up to it are very steep.
By the time we got to the top I felt like Sylvester Stalone (but how he is now, not in Rocky). We went in and was still puffing and panting and said to the woman selling the tickets I feel like Rocky, she laughed like she had heard it a dozen times before.
Inside is all the usual wealth and extravagence of the Catholic church.
In the courtyard I found the spot were my father stood in 1980 but the entrance had a bar across. It was only knee high so I stepped across to get my picture. Angela said I got a few tuts but I thought if I showed them the original picture they would be ok with my pilgrimage.
Outside at the fron was a bit easier.
After a walk around the grounds the next stop was the Basilica which was included in the price of entry to the Cathedral.
Again interesting if you like this kind of stuff. I must admit I am drawn to these big religious buildings but find myself thinking about the wealth of the church at the time of when these buildings were built the people that built them and lived around them were in poverty.
On the way we came across and old steel bridge that a lot of french were stopping and taking pictures of. Its because it was built by that bloke Eiffel again.
Found a nice square for a drink. Leffe brown on tap, my favourite beer which is found quite a lot in Spain, Angela says I can smell it from a mile away. It was not in a Leffe glass probably because I asked for a large but it was definitely Leffe.
The aire was now a bit fuller but is really not very nice and at 19euro without electric is overpriced. Girona is like Zaragoza and Leon and if it had the same free aires that these cities have we would have stayed longer and spent far more.
Besalu (Sep 10th 2024)
A few miles inland is Besalu, lovely little town with a famous bridge. Again a place where my parents came on the same bus trip as Girona (they have the same clothes on).
We had a wander around the medievel town. This is more like it. I have no idea why someone has put some chairs halfway up a wall though.
There are a few free aires at Besalu butthere are reports of break-ins and as it was still early in the day we moved on.
Castellfollit de la Roca
This medieval village is high up on a plateau. There is an aire for parking in the main village and its a walk up the the viewing area at the top. We were looking for a bit of tapas but the town was shut. There is a great view down the valley with the flyover in the background spoiling it. I took one from the flyover looking at the village.
Santa Pau
So we still had lots of time so we sneaked in another Beau village. Good looking aire just outside. Village is separated on a rock and is far better than the last one. More life going. Couple of beers and a nice bite to eat.
We switched back on the road we had come on to go to Camping Montagut out in the sticks. ACSI site run by dutch which is usually a good sign.
The next day we continued along the N260 that runs under the Pyrenees. We stopped of at another medievel town that is famous for its bridge.
Sant Joan de les Abadesses (Sep 11 2024)
September the 11th is National Catalan day and the night before the aire near the bridge had been used as the lauch pad for the local firework display. We nearly came here yesterday so that would have been an interesting night. The car park was littered with spent fire works and the ground was covered with burn marks. The aire would have been closed. The bridge is medieval from the 13th century.
Sant Llorenc de Morunys (Sep11th 2024)
Northern Spain feels like a very different country. They don't speak Spanish they speak Catalan. We arrived on National Catalan day so fair enough. Went into the town for tapas but the first bar was full of offal so went on to another. The menu was again full of offal but we got some cheese and bread and tomato and bravas. Nice little aire with electric for 6 euro with a lovely view of a factory in the valley. I really like the town. No English spoken no English meals, very friendly place. On the menu which I have attached for your perusal there is bull tongue, pigs snout and ear, badgers spleen, jaguars earlobes and wolf nipple chips (probably).
The next day we headed north over two "cols" (mountain passes). Road was full of motorbikes and mamils. Hardly saw another car.
There were storms either side of us in the distance. We later found out on this day in the Pyrenees the roads either side of the Somport tunnel were washed away. Will take 6 months to repair!
La Seu d'Urgell (Sep12th 2024)
After coming over the mountains we arrive at La Seu d' Urgell. Nice big Mercadona in the new part of town. CCP Aire is next to the old town and the massive cathedral. The Cathedral is very similar to Girona cathedral but was shut when we went, as was the town so went back to the van for Murky Donnas' fish fingers. Was entertaining watching the Spanish trying to work out how a CCP works. Its bad enough for the english (and a lot of french) but quite a few gave up and cleared off. After lunch went back to the big church and wandered about down the side streets.
The Olympic canoe slalom was held here in 1992. We didn't know but came across the course and googled it. We didn't drive here just to look at it, I'm not (quite) that sad.
Cathedral is worth a visit but you can start to get "churched out" if you go in too many.
Ainsa (Sep 13th 2024)
We drove across the mountain road (N260) which was fabulous if you like that sort of stuff. Bikers paradise and wide enough to get a large van down.
We were heading to Ainsa as it had a large aire and a nice hill top old town with lots of bars and restaurants. What we didn't know was they were having a festival that weekend. A stage was up in the square and a disco blasting out shite was at the other end. "It won't be too bad" says I. So we went down had a couple of drinks at a bar. Medieval town is very nice with only two streets but a massive square full of bars. So after walking down both streets twice we had another beer at the same bar. Now they stop doing food due to festival. We find a bar in the town that does food but not open till 6pm. So we go back to the van for an hour.
Go out at 6 and bar is shut due to festival. Another bar is open at 7 so we go back to the bar we had been to twice before for a beer while waiting. "Ola back again senior, dos cervesa". "Si". All the time the disco is blasting out shite. A local band then comes out with acoustic guitar and pipes that cannot compete with the shite from the disco. So they moved into the old town and everyone follows, us included.
They stop at the first bar which is the one we are going to at 7pm and they bring out tapas for them. Turns out the bar brews its own beer and it's on draft. One is a Belgian dubbel the other a British brown beer. We have one of each a cheese platter and patata bravas. The band moves on and we are left alone. The British brown is lovely so I have another. I am now drunk.
The main stage now comes alive and the band comes on. Everyone goes to watch so we go back to the bar again for the fourth time. It's rammed as it's near the stage. Waiter sees me and brings out a table for us. First act is like someone who has failed a Eurovision song contest audition. Second act is a Spanish cheeky girl tribute band.
The stage then shuts at 10pm as does every other bar as the beer tents are now open. The shite disco comes back on but twice as loud. We decide to call it a night expecting the music to go on until midnight. Outside it's getting busy and a motorhome turns up with 6 girls in it. I am smashed by now due to not eating enough and drinking too much and am asleep in seconds. What seems like 20 minutes later I am awakened by the DJ shouting something in Spanish. Outside all the vans are completely surrounded by badly parked cars. I look at my watch and it is 3:14am. The music goes on until 6am. In-between drunks come back to sleep in their cars. The Atomic Kitten tribute come back to there van about 5am all screaming like witches.We depart at 9:30am. All in all a good day.
We had been getting warnings about an impending storm for days.
It was everywhere so we couldn't avoid it so we thought we would be better on a site. Keep getting told how nice Roses is by lots of people, so we had to have a look. Firstly it is absolutely rammed with french motorhomes. All campsites full, backstreets full and Aires full, all full of french who don't like us because we don't like them. We squeezed onto a large aire near town that had three places left out of 67 and this was 11:30am. (To be fair we could have got on a campsite for 56 euro per night but with 5% off if we spent more than three nights we politly declined).
With umbrella in hand we walked to the seafront which was like a lot of other Spanish seaside places. Secondly there are a lot more people selling trainers etc. They don't go around with a bag they set up shop in the street. Thirdly though it is quite nice and reasonably cheap which is why the french just nip over.
We found a nice bar for a drink and sat for an hour.
The next day we had a walk the other way (north) along the front and into the town itself. I can see why lots of people come here. Weather was a bit kinder so we had a beer at another nice bar selling Belgian beers.
Empuriabrava (Sep 6th 2024)
So we got up early to travel to the next site 2.8 miles away. Mas Nou is a big site next to Europe's largest residential marina with 24km of navigable waterways. (So says Mr Wikipedia). The site is 21 euro with ACSI and so is full again by 3 o'clock. Due to everywhere being full we decide to stay here for the weekend to do some washing. Big Mercadona outside the entrance and a massive Chinese shop opposite that. The site has a bar and resteraunt over the road so we had a look. They were playing obscure prog music over the outside speakers, of which I am a fan of, so we decide to have something to eat. As soon as we sit down the Rush album track from 1978 is replaced by Baby Shark and the stage opposite has two spanish pontins kiddies entertainers. Lots of kids and parents now turn up and sing along to it. The grumpy old b...... that I am does not.
While we were here we had a quick look at the marina and it's just like a housing estate with canals. We were going to bike to the beach but it was not obvious which way to go once in the middle of the floating council estate. It goes on for miles. The weather had now picked up and we decided it was twot to do anything so chilled at the van and watched the thousands of swallows catching flies.
Girona (Sep 9th 2024)
My parents had visited Spain in the 70s and 80s and as I was a teenager I was not interested in going with them. I would rather have the house to myself. I had a few pictures of them in various places but did not know where they were. Now with google lens you can find out where these places are. One of these was the cathedral at Girona. They must have gone on a bus trip as the never drove.
Girona looked nice and there was an aire right in the centre, a bit expensive, but good location.
We walked into the center and was there in 15mins. The cathedral is quite impressive but the stairs up to it are very steep.
By the time we got to the top I felt like Sylvester Stalone (but how he is now, not in Rocky). We went in and was still puffing and panting and said to the woman selling the tickets I feel like Rocky, she laughed like she had heard it a dozen times before.
Inside is all the usual wealth and extravagence of the Catholic church.
In the courtyard I found the spot were my father stood in 1980 but the entrance had a bar across. It was only knee high so I stepped across to get my picture. Angela said I got a few tuts but I thought if I showed them the original picture they would be ok with my pilgrimage.
Outside at the fron was a bit easier.
After a walk around the grounds the next stop was the Basilica which was included in the price of entry to the Cathedral.
Again interesting if you like this kind of stuff. I must admit I am drawn to these big religious buildings but find myself thinking about the wealth of the church at the time of when these buildings were built the people that built them and lived around them were in poverty.
On the way we came across and old steel bridge that a lot of french were stopping and taking pictures of. Its because it was built by that bloke Eiffel again.
Found a nice square for a drink. Leffe brown on tap, my favourite beer which is found quite a lot in Spain, Angela says I can smell it from a mile away. It was not in a Leffe glass probably because I asked for a large but it was definitely Leffe.
The aire was now a bit fuller but is really not very nice and at 19euro without electric is overpriced. Girona is like Zaragoza and Leon and if it had the same free aires that these cities have we would have stayed longer and spent far more.
Besalu (Sep 10th 2024)
A few miles inland is Besalu, lovely little town with a famous bridge. Again a place where my parents came on the same bus trip as Girona (they have the same clothes on).
We had a wander around the medievel town. This is more like it. I have no idea why someone has put some chairs halfway up a wall though.
There are a few free aires at Besalu butthere are reports of break-ins and as it was still early in the day we moved on.
Castellfollit de la Roca
This medieval village is high up on a plateau. There is an aire for parking in the main village and its a walk up the the viewing area at the top. We were looking for a bit of tapas but the town was shut. There is a great view down the valley with the flyover in the background spoiling it. I took one from the flyover looking at the village.
Santa Pau
So we still had lots of time so we sneaked in another Beau village. Good looking aire just outside. Village is separated on a rock and is far better than the last one. More life going. Couple of beers and a nice bite to eat.
We switched back on the road we had come on to go to Camping Montagut out in the sticks. ACSI site run by dutch which is usually a good sign.
The next day we continued along the N260 that runs under the Pyrenees. We stopped of at another medievel town that is famous for its bridge.
Sant Joan de les Abadesses (Sep 11 2024)
September the 11th is National Catalan day and the night before the aire near the bridge had been used as the lauch pad for the local firework display. We nearly came here yesterday so that would have been an interesting night. The car park was littered with spent fire works and the ground was covered with burn marks. The aire would have been closed. The bridge is medieval from the 13th century.
Sant Llorenc de Morunys (Sep11th 2024)
Northern Spain feels like a very different country. They don't speak Spanish they speak Catalan. We arrived on National Catalan day so fair enough. Went into the town for tapas but the first bar was full of offal so went on to another. The menu was again full of offal but we got some cheese and bread and tomato and bravas. Nice little aire with electric for 6 euro with a lovely view of a factory in the valley. I really like the town. No English spoken no English meals, very friendly place. On the menu which I have attached for your perusal there is bull tongue, pigs snout and ear, badgers spleen, jaguars earlobes and wolf nipple chips (probably).
The next day we headed north over two "cols" (mountain passes). Road was full of motorbikes and mamils. Hardly saw another car.
There were storms either side of us in the distance. We later found out on this day in the Pyrenees the roads either side of the Somport tunnel were washed away. Will take 6 months to repair!
La Seu d'Urgell (Sep12th 2024)
After coming over the mountains we arrive at La Seu d' Urgell. Nice big Mercadona in the new part of town. CCP Aire is next to the old town and the massive cathedral. The Cathedral is very similar to Girona cathedral but was shut when we went, as was the town so went back to the van for Murky Donnas' fish fingers. Was entertaining watching the Spanish trying to work out how a CCP works. Its bad enough for the english (and a lot of french) but quite a few gave up and cleared off. After lunch went back to the big church and wandered about down the side streets.
The Olympic canoe slalom was held here in 1992. We didn't know but came across the course and googled it. We didn't drive here just to look at it, I'm not (quite) that sad.
Cathedral is worth a visit but you can start to get "churched out" if you go in too many.
Ainsa (Sep 13th 2024)
We drove across the mountain road (N260) which was fabulous if you like that sort of stuff. Bikers paradise and wide enough to get a large van down.
We were heading to Ainsa as it had a large aire and a nice hill top old town with lots of bars and restaurants. What we didn't know was they were having a festival that weekend. A stage was up in the square and a disco blasting out shite was at the other end. "It won't be too bad" says I. So we went down had a couple of drinks at a bar. Medieval town is very nice with only two streets but a massive square full of bars. So after walking down both streets twice we had another beer at the same bar. Now they stop doing food due to festival. We find a bar in the town that does food but not open till 6pm. So we go back to the van for an hour.
Go out at 6 and bar is shut due to festival. Another bar is open at 7 so we go back to the bar we had been to twice before for a beer while waiting. "Ola back again senior, dos cervesa". "Si". All the time the disco is blasting out shite. A local band then comes out with acoustic guitar and pipes that cannot compete with the shite from the disco. So they moved into the old town and everyone follows, us included.
They stop at the first bar which is the one we are going to at 7pm and they bring out tapas for them. Turns out the bar brews its own beer and it's on draft. One is a Belgian dubbel the other a British brown beer. We have one of each a cheese platter and patata bravas. The band moves on and we are left alone. The British brown is lovely so I have another. I am now drunk.
The main stage now comes alive and the band comes on. Everyone goes to watch so we go back to the bar again for the fourth time. It's rammed as it's near the stage. Waiter sees me and brings out a table for us. First act is like someone who has failed a Eurovision song contest audition. Second act is a Spanish cheeky girl tribute band.
The stage then shuts at 10pm as does every other bar as the beer tents are now open. The shite disco comes back on but twice as loud. We decide to call it a night expecting the music to go on until midnight. Outside it's getting busy and a motorhome turns up with 6 girls in it. I am smashed by now due to not eating enough and drinking too much and am asleep in seconds. What seems like 20 minutes later I am awakened by the DJ shouting something in Spanish. Outside all the vans are completely surrounded by badly parked cars. I look at my watch and it is 3:14am. The music goes on until 6am. In-between drunks come back to sleep in their cars. The Atomic Kitten tribute come back to there van about 5am all screaming like witches.We depart at 9:30am. All in all a good day.
Pt 5 Impending doom
Alquazar (Sep 14th 2024)
Alquazar is only 60kms away but it took a couple of hours going over the tiny switchback heavy road I had decided to take.
I stopped to take a picture of one of the gorges on the was only to hear voices. Down in the bottom where some "snorkelers" as I believe they are called. They looked like they were dressed for water but not sure if they cam across any.
There is a large car park in Alquazar, that motorhomes aren't allowed to park overnight in anymore.
Town is good for a couple of hours. Looks bigger than it is in the photos. Big attraction is a walk on a path nailed to the side of the rock. Not for us. Its a very touristy town that doesn't dissapoint.
We walked down every street, there are plenty of little bars and eaterys . Wedding was taking place in the church.
The campsite outside is for hikers really all the pitches that were free had low branchesand were very small, so we moved on to Camping Rio Vero that we had passed on the dodgy road. Very nice so we stayed over for the weekend to do some washing. It's got a restaurant and a bar. 31 euro for two nights (without electric).
Zaragoza (Sep 16th 2024)
Been to Zaragoza a few times before but never visited the center due to either the weather being too cold or we got there too late. This time its 30C so only excuse would be its too hot.
Got the tram to Zaragoza from the aire, its just over the road. As we crossed the road a tram was coming so we jumped on and started looking how to buy a ticket. Turns out the ticket machine is outside. We stayed on to our allotted stop just over the river hoping no one would ask to see our tickets. I had my stupid "Sorry Eeenglish" face ready but we were ok. Its a really nice city but it was very quiet. Looks like they were clearing up after some event or fiesta, maybe Catalan day last week. Massive rolls of green carpet which woud have been great in our garden.
Yet another big church to go in. This one had a statute of the first known skateboarding Pope who is giving a thumbs up to God.
Found lots of places to eat and dring in the back streets.
Not sure why Elton John was there tho.
Belchite (Sep 16th 2024)
A short drive from Zaragoza is the town of Belchite. Stuck right in the middle of the Spanish civil war in the push to Zaragoza it got bombed from both sides. Franco ordered it remain a ruin as a reminder of war and got another town built next door even though the people wanted to move back in. We paid for a tour with an audio guide you cannot go in on your own. Be aware you have to book online before hand. We had booked for the later tour but turned up just in time for the earlier one. The Spanish woman talked a lot more than our audio guide but you get a good feel for the place from it. It is said that most of reason for the ruins as they are now are due to people nicking a lot of the stones to use elsewhere in the new town. It probably why they closed it off.
The Spanish who went on the tour seemed quite moved by it all. Especially when they got to the story of the bodies being thrown in the wine cellers as they couldn't bury everyone.
There is still a shell sticking out of the church. Me being a cinicle old git must think it has be placed there afterwards. It not it would still be live, so they wouldn't have tourists walking around underneath. But then over the years we have seen some dodgy health and safety over the years.
It is twinned with Oradour sur Glane as it would be. We parked but didn't stay in the free aire a short walk away.
Teruel (Sep 17th 2024)
We've been past Teruel a dozen times but have never stopped. We got to the free aire about 5pm and as the weather was forecast to be poor the next day so we went in for the evening. It was a lot busier than Zaragoza but that may have been the time. Wandered around the streets and was quite impressed. Food has been hard to come by for us. We don't like Spanish food yet we come twice a year. Ended up with a pizza served to us by an immigrant that went to the UK when he was nineteen and learnt English with a Brummie accent. He didn't like it cos it was too cold so he moved to Spain and set up a pizza place. Had quite a chat with him. Next day did a bit of shopping and waited for a storm that didn't come. There is a big Alcampo shop next to the free aire. There is also lots of places to eat around it. To go to the center you can walk in about 30mins or catch the bus from the middle of the Alcampo car park.
Xabia (Sep 19th 2024)
Again we have messages of impending doom with danger to life and 30mm of rain.
Get to Javia and it's sunny with a bit of cloud. Campsite (Camping Javea) is nearly full again and we only have 5 pitches to choose from We pick a corner pitch and set up then we went down to the front to have a look. We came 6 years ago but the weather was poor then as well.
We go down to the front and turn north along the prom. Find another little bar that sells Belgium beer and chill.
The next day we went back in to the old town up a steep hill as they always seem to be. Had a coffee then down to the front to spend a lovely afternoon watching the world go by.
Biked down to the far south side and it all looks very nice. This part is Arenal beach and there is another campsite close by. We will come back and spend a week here next year.
Weatherforcast wrong again.
Alquazar is only 60kms away but it took a couple of hours going over the tiny switchback heavy road I had decided to take.
I stopped to take a picture of one of the gorges on the was only to hear voices. Down in the bottom where some "snorkelers" as I believe they are called. They looked like they were dressed for water but not sure if they cam across any.
There is a large car park in Alquazar, that motorhomes aren't allowed to park overnight in anymore.
Town is good for a couple of hours. Looks bigger than it is in the photos. Big attraction is a walk on a path nailed to the side of the rock. Not for us. Its a very touristy town that doesn't dissapoint.
We walked down every street, there are plenty of little bars and eaterys . Wedding was taking place in the church.
The campsite outside is for hikers really all the pitches that were free had low branchesand were very small, so we moved on to Camping Rio Vero that we had passed on the dodgy road. Very nice so we stayed over for the weekend to do some washing. It's got a restaurant and a bar. 31 euro for two nights (without electric).
Zaragoza (Sep 16th 2024)
Been to Zaragoza a few times before but never visited the center due to either the weather being too cold or we got there too late. This time its 30C so only excuse would be its too hot.
Got the tram to Zaragoza from the aire, its just over the road. As we crossed the road a tram was coming so we jumped on and started looking how to buy a ticket. Turns out the ticket machine is outside. We stayed on to our allotted stop just over the river hoping no one would ask to see our tickets. I had my stupid "Sorry Eeenglish" face ready but we were ok. Its a really nice city but it was very quiet. Looks like they were clearing up after some event or fiesta, maybe Catalan day last week. Massive rolls of green carpet which woud have been great in our garden.
Yet another big church to go in. This one had a statute of the first known skateboarding Pope who is giving a thumbs up to God.
Found lots of places to eat and dring in the back streets.
Not sure why Elton John was there tho.
Belchite (Sep 16th 2024)
A short drive from Zaragoza is the town of Belchite. Stuck right in the middle of the Spanish civil war in the push to Zaragoza it got bombed from both sides. Franco ordered it remain a ruin as a reminder of war and got another town built next door even though the people wanted to move back in. We paid for a tour with an audio guide you cannot go in on your own. Be aware you have to book online before hand. We had booked for the later tour but turned up just in time for the earlier one. The Spanish woman talked a lot more than our audio guide but you get a good feel for the place from it. It is said that most of reason for the ruins as they are now are due to people nicking a lot of the stones to use elsewhere in the new town. It probably why they closed it off.
The Spanish who went on the tour seemed quite moved by it all. Especially when they got to the story of the bodies being thrown in the wine cellers as they couldn't bury everyone.
There is still a shell sticking out of the church. Me being a cinicle old git must think it has be placed there afterwards. It not it would still be live, so they wouldn't have tourists walking around underneath. But then over the years we have seen some dodgy health and safety over the years.
It is twinned with Oradour sur Glane as it would be. We parked but didn't stay in the free aire a short walk away.
Teruel (Sep 17th 2024)
We've been past Teruel a dozen times but have never stopped. We got to the free aire about 5pm and as the weather was forecast to be poor the next day so we went in for the evening. It was a lot busier than Zaragoza but that may have been the time. Wandered around the streets and was quite impressed. Food has been hard to come by for us. We don't like Spanish food yet we come twice a year. Ended up with a pizza served to us by an immigrant that went to the UK when he was nineteen and learnt English with a Brummie accent. He didn't like it cos it was too cold so he moved to Spain and set up a pizza place. Had quite a chat with him. Next day did a bit of shopping and waited for a storm that didn't come. There is a big Alcampo shop next to the free aire. There is also lots of places to eat around it. To go to the center you can walk in about 30mins or catch the bus from the middle of the Alcampo car park.
Xabia (Sep 19th 2024)
Again we have messages of impending doom with danger to life and 30mm of rain.
Get to Javia and it's sunny with a bit of cloud. Campsite (Camping Javea) is nearly full again and we only have 5 pitches to choose from We pick a corner pitch and set up then we went down to the front to have a look. We came 6 years ago but the weather was poor then as well.
We go down to the front and turn north along the prom. Find another little bar that sells Belgium beer and chill.
The next day we went back in to the old town up a steep hill as they always seem to be. Had a coffee then down to the front to spend a lovely afternoon watching the world go by.
Biked down to the far south side and it all looks very nice. This part is Arenal beach and there is another campsite close by. We will come back and spend a week here next year.
Weatherforcast wrong again.
