Globecar Modifications

[RogerThat]

I was thinking of modifying the back door trims so that they hold the mini ramps, wheel chocks and the EHU lead.

Does that mean the doors are hollow? Or have I misunderstood?

 

[jezport]

Portable magnetic strip light, I didnt want to drill an awning light in so built this.

 

[skylinersi]

Cool but no built in awning light?

 

[jezport]

Cool but no built in awning light?

Dont want a fixed one. This can stick anywhere its required.

 

[Blue Knight]

Does that mean the doors are hollow? Or have I misunderstood?

Semi-hollow but not a usable space unless you want to store a few pairs of socks

I've now gone for the simple option

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[Blue Knight]

I managed to find some Mesh today but the Auto factors only had one sheet so I've ordered a second from the internet.

I've opted for the chromed black 16mm x 8mm Diamond Mesh made by Auto-style and/or Carpoint. The product code is TG1253Z and the sheet size is 125cm x 25cm.

One sheet will cover the main intercooler apperture and the second piece will cover the two long narrow appertures in the lower bumper.

Here are pics of the actual item plus the eBay order sheet should anyone else feel the need to mod their front end (or protect their intercoolers from stones and road debris).

If all goes to plan then my total spend for the job will be £28.

Regards,

Andrew

 

[Neckender]

I managed to find some Mesh today but the Auto factors only had one sheet so I've ordered a second from the internet.

I've opted for the chromed black 16mm x 8mm Diamond Mesh made by Auto-style and/or Carpoint. The product code is TG1253Z and the sheet size is 125cm x 25cm.

One sheet will cover the main intercooler apperture and the second piece will cover the two long narrow appertures in the lower bumper.

Here are pics of the actual item plus the eBay order sheet should anyone else feel the need to mod their front end (or protect their intercoolers from stones and road debris).

If all goes to plan then my total spend for the job will be £28.

Regards,

Andrew

View attachment 299357

View attachment 299359

Does the young lady come to to help you fit it Andrew.

John.

 

[Blue Knight]

Does the young lady come to to help you fit it Andrew.

John.

I just see Mesh John, only Mesh, nothing but Mesh, just Mesh - you know what I mean

It could be a picture of Mel @Minxy Girl in her younger days but I can't be sure

 

[Minxy]

I just see Mesh John, only Mesh, nothing but Mesh, just Mesh - you know what I mean

It could be a picture of Mel @Minxy Girl in her younger days but I can't be sure

You charmer you!

 

[Wombles]

Might have missed it on here but has anyone fitted extra door stops to stop the rear barn doors swinging back past any existing restrainers? @Zingano has posted here https://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/rear-door-window-smashed.196448/ asking for ideas. Think it's something we would want to add too.

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[CamperSue]

Might have missed it on here but has anyone fitted extra door stops to stop the rear barn doors swinging back past any existing restrainers? @Zingano has posted here https://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/rear-door-window-smashed.196448/ asking for ideas. Think it's something we would want to add too.

There was a discussion at the end of December... here. My window is safe but others are in danger.
https://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/time-for-a-globecar.183187/page-25

 

[Blue Knight]

The second set of mesh was delivered yesterday PM so today I decided to start on the front end.

The first part is quite an easy job but it does require the removal of 32 seperate retaining bolts/screws and each panel needs to be removed in sequence to help get access to the next bit etc.

Note-1: I have taken the liberty to place a number of small red squares on any screw that needs removing so keep an eye out for them in the following pics.

Note-2: This is not for the faint hearted as the actual cutting and meshing of the appertures takes a wee bit of skill and patience.

1. Remove both headlights (4 screws):

2. Push back the lights and place them on the engine ensuring that they are not touching the black grill trim. The removal of the headlights allows access to more hidden screws. Remove all 8 screws highlighted in red:

3. Remove the 2 plastics screws and their screw housings:

4. Remove the black chrome plastic grill. You will need to tug it forward as it's also secured by retaining clips:

5. Remove the two lower hidden bolts which are located behind the small removable bumper covers:

6. Prise open each of the covers by inserting a screwdriver. This pic is for demo purposes but I used a taped head to protect the black chrome from scratches:

7. Remove the 4 retaining bolts under the bumper. Note: Do not remove the 5 bolts that support the black part of the bumper:

8. The whole front plastic mount needs to be removed so that's a further 12 bolts to extract:

9. This leaves you with this....

10. ............and then this:

I'll move on to the meshing part in the next post.

How exciting eh

 

[Vanman]

Very basic question here ... I am going to run a power connection to one of the 12v plastic junction boxes. On removing the cover I see that the incoming wires (Blue and Brown) attach to the outgoing wires on little Wago 221 connector blocks but with reversed colours - Brown in to x2 blue out and Blue in to x2 Brown out - what's that all about?!

 

[Neckender]

The Blue on the in coming is positive and the brown is negative which is reverse of the uk.
Mine is the same the wago connectors are reversed so they then become the same as the UK.

John.

 

[Vanman]

I am replacing the old Heater control dials with a more modern CP plus display, but there will be a small amount of space to fill (not load bearing) so I am looking for some sort of backing plate / trim. My internal doors are Cream on wood so I am thinking either some white sticky back or some wood effect. Any thoughts or recommendations? Thanks.

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[CamperSue]

I am replacing the old Heater control dials with a more modern CP plus display, but there will be a small amount of space to fill (not load bearing) so I am looking for some sort of backing plate / trim. My internal doors are Cream on wood so I am thinking either some white sticky back or some wood effect. Any thoughts or recommendations? Thanks.

I think @jezport did the same some time ago and will hopefully be along to offer advice.

 

[Blue Knight]

Phase-2: (Meshing):

This is a pain in the arse but the results make it worth it IMO.

1. Firstly, you'll need to reasemble the two front bumper sections on your garage floor (use an old rug like I did) since the large apperture can only be measured for its mesh panel when the two bits are together; i.e. this is to ensure that your aftermarket mesh fits when both grill sections are refitted to the truck:

2. Cut the three mesh sections using the grill appertures as a direct guide. You must ensure that you cut the top and bottom of the mesh about 25mm wider than the actual apperture. You'll see why later:

3. Bend the mesh sections around the backs of the appertures before removing them and massaging the mesh into defined shapes which fit the apperture better:

4. Try and massage the mesh so that it fits all of the rear sides and outline of the apperture housings:

5. Now use some soft wire ties to help fix the mesh into position. Note: You can see the 20-25mm overlap of mesh behind the apperture housing:

6. Turn the grill section over and do a final inspection on the mesh ensuring that all of the mesh diamonds are aligned with the body. Note: If your mesh is not aligned correctly to the appertures then the mesh diamonds will look wonky and you'll have to start again:

7. It's time to bond the mesh to the plastic by injecting the adhesive sealent into the mesh diamonds. Note: I use black INDASA Polyurethane Sealant to do all of my car jobs as I find that it bonds incredibly well to the bumper plastics:

8. .......and here's one more pic of the mesh being bonded to the plastic:

9. I'll leave this to set for 36hrs before remounting the front grills.

It's looking quite good

 

[RogerThat]

Patience of a Saint


Thanks for sharing all the pics @Blue Knight

 

[jezport]

I think @jezport did the same some time ago and will hopefully be along to offer advice.

I fitted a couple of switches for internal strip lights to cover the holes

 

[CamperSue]

I just press the remote control Andrew.

John.

@Neckender
I just had a remote control installed to do this . Just did the VB side of things, didn't do the EP bit but still find I am able to get level most places. Best of all, I now don't need dental work after every drive on the pot-holed roads in the Highlands.

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[jezport]

@Neckender
I just had a remote control installed to do this . Just did the VB side of things, didn't do the EP bit but still find I am able to get level most places. Best of all, I now don't need dental work after every drive on the pot-holed roads in the Highlands.

The full air is expensive but it changes the quality of the ride and handling from a commercial vehicle to that of a high end luxury vehicle. The crude leaf spring rear suspension is archaic and if your van is above 3000kg the springs are pretty much flattened, so imagine what they do in a sharp bend or sudden swerve when all the weight goes to one side.

When we go round roundabouts there is no lean even when we are running heavy.

I love driving our van.

 

[jezport]

We need the EP Levelling here

 

[Blue Knight]

It's all back together now albeit I've kept the retaining ties in place until tomorrow to ensure that the bonding on the main grill is 100%

Total cost was £30.16 so I was 16p over my maximum budget

This will not be a job for everyone as the shaping of the mesh has to be precise for everything to fit back correctly.

There's just the roof spolier to do now and that's all of the jobs finished.

All the best,

Andrew

 

[Cheshirecat57]

Patience of a saint

 

[Paul_Oxon]

Not really a modification as such, but this seemed an appropriate place to post about this! I've been using the 'wardrobe' below the fridge in my Campscout as a general 'kitchen cupboard' but needed some way to organise it. Using plastic storage boxes up to now made good use of the space but was a bit of a faff having to lift them out to access anything.

I did consider putting in a shelf / shelves but that's fairly permanent and relies on some DIY ability to do a tidy job
So I've gone for some plastic storage bins with open fronts. I was going to go for these from Amazon but then found these storage bins on Ebay which are the same size but sturdier, and rest on the bin below along the whole length of the top, rather than on 4 spots. Two of the 'size 5' bins side by side fit the cupboard perfectly and I think they'll be perfect for storing smaller items while keeping them easily accessible, but secure from falling out when you open the cupboard door. Ordered late Tuesday afternoon, arrived first thing Thursday (standard delivery) via Parcelforce.



Paul

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[BreweryDave]

Loo flush question!
Mine is very poor, hardly any pressure, is this common or do I somehow need to access the pipes and clean it out?

 

[Paul_Oxon]

Loo flush question!
Mine is very poor, hardly any pressure, is this common or do I somehow need to access the pipes and clean it out?

Guess it's all relative. One man's dribble is another's peak flow

It's not exactly a powerful flow, there is no separate pump, and the pipes are fairly thin so could have scaled up. The flow on my fairly new van is definitely better than on my much older boat which has the same Thetford cassette loo.

You can also help things by using some 'pink' in a spray bottle, or just using the flush, to lubricate the bowl before using the loo. The flush will never be anything like in a loo at home.

Hope that is of some help?

Paul

 

[Blue Knight]

I like that Paul @Paul_Oxon

It's simple and yet really effective. We are going through the same process at the moment; i.e. attempting to find the best storage solutions for our bigger trips so we may use your idea.

 

[Blue Knight]

Now that we take the dog with us we've jad to work on ideas of how to load the larger bits of kit in the rear while not encroaching on his space.

This is what I've come up with for our travel chairs. I've used a couple of cargo nets which I had lying around from our previous cars and I've used them to support the seats under the bed spaces.

Cost = Nil (Just how I like it).

Time = 10-seconds to fit.

Practicality = 10/10

 

[Minxy]

I've used a couple of cargo nets which I had lying around from our previous cars and I've used them to support the seats under the bed spaces.

I used to use cargo nets a lot but getting stuff in/out can be a pain in the bum as they can catch on the cording as you try to put then in/take them out, my removable table/shelf works very well, with our folding chairs on the top level and the large wheeled storage tub below with canoe at the side of it behind the red bag which holds our 2 x 5L water containers. The space on the left of the table is perfect for our crate containing the generator and Brompton. I've replaced the cable ties with key-ring 'rings' for some hooks which makes attaching the cargo net easier (it ensures nothing can 'escape').

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