What have you fixed on your motorhome this week?

And I've yet to find a small modern combustion- engined car that can match my old Velocette Venom's 100+ mpg 😉
 
Fitted bookshelf so we can find our books on our travels, Oak book shelf bought from Etsy
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Have just changed a wheel.. again.
Began during Easter week, when I got a rear flat and it put the kybosh on going away for Easter Sunday as the spare turned out to have a broken valve.

Walked the spare to the tyre shop and they repaired it, walked it back and swapped the wheel over and a week later, the other side went down. So, walked the original puncture to the tyre shop again and they repaired it, brought it back and swapped it over - I had at that point four functioning tyres, so then drove to tyre shop and they repaired the second puncture.

Two weeks on (last week) moved the van - the neighbours moan - to the same spot where the second puncture appeared... and got a third puncture. On the front this time. Today, I swapped it for the spare - which was one of the original rear tyres. I had intended to take the van out but in the end I didn't move it.

I'll take it tomorrow tho to the tyre shop to get the latest puncture repaired. I'll be asking them to tell me what kind of puncture it was because I think there is a possibility it may have been one of my lovely neighbours...

Thank goodness puncture repairs don't cost much!
 
Have just changed a wheel.. again.
Began during Easter week, when I got a rear flat and it put the kybosh on going away for Easter Sunday as the spare turned out to have a broken valve.

Walked the spare to the tyre shop and they repaired it, walked it back and swapped the wheel over and a week later, the other side went down. So, walked the original puncture to the tyre shop again and they repaired it, brought it back and swapped it over - I had at that point four functioning tyres, so then drove to tyre shop and they repaired the second puncture.

Two weeks on (last week) moved the van - the neighbours moan - to the same spot where the second puncture appeared... and got a third puncture. On the front this time. Today, I swapped it for the spare - which was one of the original rear tyres. I had intended to take the van out but in the end I didn't move it.

I'll take it tomorrow tho to the tyre shop to get the latest puncture repaired. I'll be asking them to tell me what kind of puncture it was because I think there is a possibility it may have been one of my lovely neighbours...

Thank goodness puncture repairs don't cost much!
If the neighbours are so lovely, why do you keep running over them?🤔
 
Removed both roof covers, firstly on the extraction fan vent above the kitchen and then in the bathroom and degunked them both, they were filthy, but not anymore 👍🏻

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Well brought the van home last Saturday to wash it and prepare for going to France on Thursday for a couple of weeks.
tyre pressure light came on.
Checked pressure and 57 psi. So inflated to correct pressure.
Checked on Sunday and it had dropped
Again on Monday.
It’s a bank holiday so nowhere open.
Work is solid too but managed to get it into a local tyre place this morning to repair the puncture. Errr not repairable, sorry mate.

So now just back from a set of 4 cross climates being fitted and £700 lighter in the wallet.
But at least ok for Thursday and France 🥳🥳🥳
 
Stripped the back of the fridge down, cleaned the flue (which was surprisingly clean) and the burner, which was very coked up.
Someone clearly been here before me and cleaned the flue out but got fed up and didn't do the burner. One screw missing.

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Our Whale water pump has been getting noisy when it pumps water and has been pulsing a few times every quarter of an hour or so as though it's not holding pressure.
Took it out this morning and stripped it down to find this gunk on the poppet valves and diaphragm.
Gave them a good going over with a toothbrush in warm water before reassembling the pump and it's now as quiet as a church mouse and no intermittent pulsing. (y)

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The saga of flush problems with our Thetford C250 raised its head again last week whist I was away.
I recently fitted a manual pump after problems with several pumps failing corroded wiring and gunk in the tank. It was a vast improvement during our two weeks away early last month but the pump struggled to get any water to the bowl after a couple of days during last weeks trip.
Today I took the pump out and found the seal for the valve body on the bottom of the pump was sticking out. On checking further the valve body was only held on with two of the three clips.
I couldn’t find a new o ring so I re fitted the original one and clipped the valve back on to the pump. Testing the pump in a bowl of water it certainly pumped lots of water so I fitted it back in the tank. Maybe my imagination it seems to pump better now.
When I fitted it originally it never crossed my mind to check it but maybe if any one fits a pump check the clips are fitted properly.
I am only putting water in the flush tank and keeping a spray bottle of diluted additive next to the toilet to try and keep the black gunk at bay.
 
Remote locking on the hab door packed up last year , key still worked so didn't worry too much. Heading to the continent in a couple of weeks so decided to fix it. Stripped off the door to find the solenoid had stripped it's teeth, happily had a spare in the shed (long story). Swapped them out rebuilt door and it worked the wrong way round, wires connected wrong way. Stripped the door, again (pain of a job), swapped the wires over and all was well. For info the original was 15 years old.
 
Dometic fly screen seriously broken following temporary repairs earlier this year. Looks like the only solution is a £375 replacement for a problem caused by a bit of string costing about 10p! Dealer & Dometic not interested. 🤬
Can I ask you if you have any of the bottom plastic section which you will not require?
this
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broke off mine so the vertical plastic handle(sic) is very difficult to keep on the running strip at the

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Can I ask you if you have any of the bottom plastic section which you will not require?
this View attachment 764765broke off mine so the vertical plastic handle(sic) is very difficult to keep on the running strip at the
I think that might have been the bit that snapped off on mine, I glued it but it just snapped off again. I’ve retained this bit if it’s any use?

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Greased the alko chassis suspension today, it’s a servicing task I’d forgotten about so well overdue.

Much happier now they’re pumped full of fresh grease as those torsion bars are mega expensive and a right pain to change if they seize up.
 
Hopefully have sorted a sticky HAB door lock that often did not lock or unlock when using the key fob. I was going to use just the normal WD40 but read this is not the correct lubricant to use. Instead purchased some WD40 dry PTFE and it seems to of done the job but early days yet.
 
Hopefully have sorted a sticky HAB door lock that often did not lock or unlock when using the key fob. I was going to use just the normal WD40 but read this is not the correct lubricant to use. Instead purchased some WD40 dry PTFE and it seems to of done the job but early days yet.
My awning!
 
Had the handbrake adjusted as it scraped through the mot, 1 wheel of 4 passed and a marginal overall pass :X3: .

Will take it out for a run and test over the weekend if I get a chance.

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Had the handbrake adjusted as it scraped through the mot, 1 wheel of 4 passed and a marginal overall pass :X3: .

Will take it out for a run and test over the weekend if I get a chance.
Depending on the rear brake set up of course, if it’s an Alko Chassis and internal brake shoes inside the top hat disc, then an easy tip to get the hand brake adjusted, is to simply remove one rear wheel bolt, insert a long flat head screwdriver and adjust that way. With the handbrake off, the rear jacked up and safely chocked and on axle stands, turn the locking wheel located inside the drum (as per illustration below) until the wheel is solid and won’t turn at all and then slowly back the adjustment off until the wheel freely rotates. Pull the handbrake on and off a few times and check the wheel both locks when the handbrake is applied and free to rotate when released. Then do the other side and don’t forget to replace the wheel bold and torque it up again. Recheck after a few miles.

Pictures and instructions of the task….

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If you have done the work to get the wheel off, you would be better off to remove drum, check clean, and abrade the drum and shoes before adjusting them.
 
If you have done the work to get the wheel off, you would be better off to remove drum, check clean, and abrade the drum and shoes before adjusting them.
Yes absolutely, but if like me, you’ve completed that task, but want to check and adjust before mot etc, tis an easy tip, that’s all and it gives a choice if required.

Also, the illustrations above, show that task as well. Aren’t I a good Bear 🐻
 
The crank handle on our kathrien sat dish.

Only one (the last one) I could find was in Germany.

Supplier would not ship to the UK. Luckily I have a German friend I could get it shipped to. He then shipped it to me, €17.50 DHL Shipping.

Total cost for a plastic handle about the size of a tangerine 🍊 €48
 
Whipped the curtains out and are getting some made up with matching cushions. This soft upholstery lark is challenging. Bought 4 metres and need another one for the cushions. Fingers crossed that JLP have some left tomorrow.
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My job consisted of booking the MH in to my local garage to have all 4 discs an brake pads replaced as part of the annual service and MOT.
My next job is to find the money to pay for it!
The MH is 12 years old, (and 40k miles), so can't really complain.
 
Next job for today is driven by failure of the small inverter only used to raise the front blind / shutter. It's OEM because for some reason the blind is mains powered. Amazon supply a 250W Victron inverter arriving at my campsite today.
 
My job consisted of booking the MH in to my local garage to have all 4 discs an brake pads replaced as part of the annual service and MOT.
My next job is to find the money to pay for it!
The MH is 12 years old, (and 40k miles), so can't really complain.
Last year our front discs needed replacing so I got the garage to do it. They charged us £180 per disc, not including the pads or labour!
This year I replaced the rear discs and pads myself. Total cost £103.
 
Last year our front discs needed replacing so I got the garage to do it. They charged us £180 per disc, not including the pads or labour!
This year I replaced the rear discs and pads myself. Total cost £103.
Good on you 👏
And you also have the satisfaction of knowing you did a good job.
I used to do all my own work on my cars, however I am in my 70's now, so leave most jobs to the professionals. I am lucky to have found an excellent local garage. They are far better and more trustworthy than the main dealer.
 
Yes absolutely, but if like me, you’ve completed that task, but want to check and adjust before mot etc, tis an easy tip, that’s all and it gives a choice if required.

Also, the illustrations above, show that task as well. Aren’t I a good Bear 🐻
For maximum efficiency, it is prudent to release the handbrake /undo cables , that way you know that even when the handbrake is off you know there is no tension pulling on the mechanism/ brake / brake pads before adjusting the footbrake side, the when they are adjusted refit/ tension the handbrake cables.
I'm glad it passed the MOT,which are minimum standards that have been set.

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