Two Go Back For More Cheese

Cheese factory in Lessay , don’t know if it has a shop, only ever walked past on the Voie vert.
 
After stopping to visit the Intermarché supermarket in Lessay, where we did a little shopping and the weekly laundry, an hour driving south brought us to the aire at Carrolles. You can see where we started from this morning, Saint Germain sur Ay at the top of the map under where Hotels and Bakery appear. Carolles is near the bottom above Mont Saint Michel.

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I thought we might see Mont Saint Michel from here but the coast just south of us bulges out and blocks the view. What we can see (just) are Les Îles Chausey which are geologically part of the Channel Island but are French owned and never normally mentioned whenever "our" Channel Islands are being discussed. :)

But they did once have the same owners. The "ey" at the end of the name is of Norse origin and means "island" and shares the same ending with Jersey, Alderney, Guernsey and further afield Anglesey and Orkney. They got around those vikings. :)

For lunch I cut into one of the Camemberts we had bought in the village of Camembert. This is the one made by a co-operative of farmers who pool their unpasteurised milk.

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I enjoyed it, not least because it tasted almost exactly like Stinking Bishop (which I love) but without the stinking smell!

There isn't much here at Carrolles except another big beach.

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Not my prettiest photo but between the carpark and the beach at the bottom of the photo are a lot of.... beach huts! Some looked respectable but others had holes in the roof. We can assume beach huts here don't attract the silly prices they have on the English south coast.

Looking south from the same vantage point.

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More beach shots. :)

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The sand was much softer than we had found at Saint Germain sur Ay where your feet hardly left a mark on the sand. Here there was a hard crust which your foot broke through into softer sand below. It made for harder walking. I'm no expert on sand but I suspect at Saint Germain sur Ay the sand grains are more varied in size so there are smaller grains to fill the gaps between the largest grains and then yet smaller stuff to fill the smallest voids. I suspect the difference isn't chance but down to tide and wave action. For example, although it isn't quite the same here, on Chesil beach the stones at Weymouth are much smaller than they are at the other end of the beach. It is said fishermen landing on the beach at night could tell where they were from the size of the pebbles they found. :)
 
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After stopping to visit the Intermarché supermarket in Lessay, where we did a little shopping and the weekly laundry, an hour driving south brought us to the aire at Carrolles. You can see where we started from this morning, Saint Germain sur Ay at the top of the map under where Hotels and Bakery appear. Carolles is near the bottom above Mont Saint Michel.

View attachment 814210

I thought we might see Mont Saint Michel from here but the coast just south of us bulges out and blocks the view. What we can see (just) are Les Îles Chausey which are geologically part of the Channel Island but are French owned and never normally mentioned whenever "our" Channel Islands are being discussed. :)

But they did once have the same owners. The "ey" at the end of the name is of Norse origin and means "island" and shares the same ending with Jersey, Alderney, Guernsey and further afield Anglesey and Orkney. They got around those vikings. :)

For lunch I cut into one of the Camemberts we had bought in the village of Camembert. This is the one made by a co-operative of farmers who pool their unpasteurised milk.

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I enjoyed it, not least because it tasted almost exactly like Stinking Bishop (which I love) but without the stinking smell!

There isn't much here at Carrolles except another big beach.

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Not my prettiest photo but between the carpark and the beach at the bottom of the photo are a lot of.... beach huts! Some looked respectable but others had holes in the roof. We can assume beach huts here don't attract the silly prices they have on the English south coast.

Looking south from the same vantage point.

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More beach shots. :)

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The sand was much softer than we had found at Saint Germain sur Ay where your feet hardly left a mark on the sand. Here there was a hard crust which your foot broke through into softer sand below. It made for harder walking. I'm no expert on sand but I suspect at Saint Germain sur Ay the sand grains are more varied in size so there are smaller grains to fill the gaps between the largest grains and then yet smaller stuff to fill the smallest voids. I suspect the difference isn't chance but down to tide and wave action. For example, although it isn't quite the same here, on Chesil beach the stones at Weymouth are much smaller than they are at the other end of the beach. It is said fishermen landing on the beach at night could tell where they were from the size of the pebbles they found. :)
We stayed there a few weeks ago and like it. Have they mended the barriers yet?
 
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We stayed there a few weeks ago and like it. Have they mended the barriers yet?
Doesn't look like it, we had to call them and they gave us a code which we had to type in on the keypad to open the barrier. It was the same for folk leaving so I guess we will do it again tomorrow.

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Doesn't look like it, we had to call them and they gave us a code which we had to type in on the keypad to open the barrier. It was the same for folk leaving so I guess we will do it again tomorrow.
Same as us then.
 
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Before we left Carolles I took Charlie on the clifftop path which runs south, starting not far from the aire at some steps in the corner of a carpark.

The tide was much further out than it had been in the afternoon the day before. The two specks close together nearest the camera are horses pulling a little two-wheeled buggy, a third one is behind them.

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These, visible as bumps on the horizon are Les Îles Chausey, the French "Channel Islands".

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Leaving the aire, after the obligatory call to CCP HQ to get the barrier opened, we drove around the coast to Le Vivier sur Mer. In the map below Saint Malo is on the left, Carolles where we started from in the upper right and Vivier sur Mer is under the blue blob in the middle.

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We have been here before and we've returned for the same reason we first came here - shellfish. 🐚

Vivier sur Mer is one of the largest centres for the production of mussels and oysters in France. They claim they produce 20% of the farmed mussels in France here. I can't verify this but they certainly produce a lot of them.

This afternoon the tide was coming in, and quickly I expect as there are Spring tides this weekend. The rising tide was pushing the workers off the shellfish beds and as we walked along the road we encountered a succession of strange craft returning home.

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I lost count of how many, at least a dozen and all packed with mussels.

We also saw several of these.

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Empty muck spreaders and what the role of these is completely escapes me. There were a few mussels in the back of each one which made me wonder if they had been scattering loose mussels to help breeding?

Curious mud erosion in this creek and five of the six boats visible are seaworthy. :)

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Mussels are easy to cook but today we treated ourselves here.

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No, the sign doesn't mean "Poisonous and Disgusting". :) The word in the restaurant's name "Bouchot" comes from the technique they use here for growing mussels on a rope wrapped in a spiral around a stake.

What shall we have....

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They had huge plates of prawns for starters but a Kg of mussels would be enough for each of us.

This is my Moules au Roquefort.

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The sauce was smooth and creamy and the moules themselves very plump. I would have preferred normal skinny chips instead of their home-made ones but that is a minor quible. Washed down with a bottle of Sancerre it was a good meal.

Oysters tomorrow. :)
 
We drove past there a few weeks ago on our way to Cancale.
There‘s a good little Aire just before the town with a path direct down to the harbour.
Very good oysters on the key at good prices.
And if you’re going further towards St Malo this is a good site at Rotheneuf.
Aire de Camping-Cars - Les Ilots
5 Avenue de la Guimorais, 35400 Saint-Malo.
 
We drove past there a few weeks ago on our way to Cancale.
There‘s a good little Aire just before the town with a path direct down to the harbour.
Very good oysters on the key at good prices.
And if you’re going further towards St Malo this is a good site at Rotheneuf.
Aire de Camping-Cars - Les Ilots
5 Avenue de la Guimorais, 35400 Saint-Malo.
That Les Îlots aire looks nice but we've only got just over a week left so after tomorrow we're going to head into Brittany and start to edge towards a vet for the dog before we catch the ferry.
 
There used to be vehicles/boats like the one above in Liverpool, they were based at Albert Dock.
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There used to be vehicles/boats like the one above in Liverpool, they were based at Albert Dock.
View attachment 815156
That's a DUKW which was an amphibious vehicle from the WW2 era but the modern versions we saw today work on the same idea - wheels for land and a propellor for water.
 
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As promised it was oysters today and at just €5.60 for twelve it wasn't an expensive meal. Bought from the shop found by turning left out of the aire. :)

I am not an expert in preparing oysters so I wouldn't dream of explaining my technique for opening them other than to say the main objective is to avoid flashing blue lights and ambulances. You could check YouTube for video guides if you want to have an idea how to do. The counter argument is I've never found a video that really explained how to do it. I think you just have to find your own way and hopefully arrive at this point with the same number of fingers you started out with. :)

For this recipe I've found it best to drain the liquid from the oysters otherwise the result can be too salty.

First scrumple aluminium foil in the grill tray to form a stable base for the shells. The traditional method is to fill the tray with salt but aluminium foil is a lot cheaper!

Pour a couple of teaspoons of melted butter over each drained oyster. Then add a mixture of grated Parmisan cheese and Panko breadcrumbs.

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Place under grill.

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I needed to juggle the tray around a bit to get even cooking but eventually...

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... they were ready. Serve immediately as they say. We had it with bits of baguette to soak up the juices but this isn't essential. It was very tasty. :)

Random photos from today.

We had Llamas at a recent aire, here we have Alpacas I think.

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The strange mussel gathering machines don't have registration numbers so I guessed they were not allowed on the public road.

I was wrong. This one was so wide it completely filled the road. :)

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From the aire this afternoon we watched some interesting activity. Folk were entering this building and emerging with heavy bags. It's a food bank and the first I've seen in France.

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I started a new thread today about this aircraft but for completeness here it is again. I think it's the aviation equivalent of the Citroën 2CV. :)

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A long (for us) two and a half hour drive brought us to the south coast of Brittany.

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We are on the south side of the Morbihan, a little south of the town of Sarzeau.

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There is a new CCP aire here which opened only recently. This is it when we arrived.

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The view is different now - the aire is full as is the one at Vannes not too far way.

For lunch we finished off one of the Camembert cheeses we bought.

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I hadn't spotted the gold medal and it was deserved, this was a nice cheese.

The aire is just behind the beach. There are big tides this weekend and I expect a lot of folk will be out foraging during les grandes marées. :)

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There is a good coastal path to walk on.

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Half an hour of walking brought us to here.

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There is a striking château in the far distance, the Domaine de Suscinio, but it is another half an hour of walking even from this point. We will see if we can manage it sometime this weekend. :)
 
We stayed at the municipal site in Vannes last week that and the CCP next next were both full. It’s a nice town and worth a visit. Also Loqmariaquer a bit further north still in the Morbihan is very nice. The Aire is fantastic.
We visited Vannes by bus on a previous trip, catching the bus from just outside the aire. It was busy in the city but worth visiting.

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The two specks close together nearest the camera are horses pulling a little two-wheeled buggy, a third one is behind them.
They are Trotters exercising.
When we used to property sit just below Cherbourg the beach always had them trotting up and down. The horses are not allowed to gallop just trot at one hell of a speed.
The first time we used Viviers was when the Aire was on the side of the road and looking out across the marshes you could watch the boats coming in then realise they had transferred onto solid ground!
Those Mussels look good!
 
The weather was very pleasant today, virtually no wind, sunny and not too hot so we decided to walk to the castle along the coastal path. It was very easy walking apart from about a kilometre of soft, gritty sand which rapidly filled our sandals. The solution, which we only hit on during the return trip was to take our sandals off and walk in bare feet. :)

The last kilometre was on an elevated boardwalk over marshy ground.

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The castle, the Domaine de Sucinio, was originally built in the 13th century and is a proper castle, built for defence unlike those you will find, for example, along the Loire.

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Before and after restoration.

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They are doing some major work on the moat.

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A line of sand-filled bags form a dam to allow access to the outer wall of the moat.

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I couldn't work out if they were cleaning it out or repairing it, probably both.

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A notice added a bit of history.

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It took us an hour to reach the castle from the aire, the distance was about five kilometres each way.

Low tide was about midday and there were a lot of people in the water foraging for anything edible during the extra-low tide.

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Not the best photos, they were a long way away but all the dots amongst the boats are people with shrimping nets. Others were foraging amongst rocks for crabs etc. I'll try and take a better picture tomorrow. :)
 
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We headed north west this morning to Port Louis

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It's a tucked away sort of place.

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There are (at least) 3 aires here. I haven't posted a photo of the one we are in as it is entirely surrounded by a high stone wall. There are a lot of walls here, two compounds just outside the aire were used for storing gunpowder and cannonballs.

The beach just below the aire is interesting. Navigation aids for shipping everywhere. The main island is now called Mouse Island but if I read the signs correctly it was once used to house prisoners - which must have been a bit grim.

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Port Louis is built on a peninsular and at the tip of it is a citadel. Our visit coincided with three bus loads of school children who were just leaving.

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Curious pepperpot towers on each corner. :)

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But there is also a lot of more recent history here - from WW2.

This is a memorial to 69 men shot in June 1944. The double cross was the symbol of the Free French forces.

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This is hard to read but the first part says:

"O you who are passing by, stop!"

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It then goes on the ask you to remember the 69 shot "par les Nazis".

"Les suppliciés" I think means "the tortured" but I may be wrong. From the descriptions I think all but one of these were members of the Resistence. This was one of several boards giving details of each of the 69.

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Bit of an eyesight test this one but in the centre in the distance are German U Boat pens. Now a museum.

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We enjoyed a few days stay in Port Louis earlier this summer, same aire by the sound of it. One thing we particularly enjoyed was a trip over to Lorient on the Bateau Bus. As I recall there is a choice of two routes across. The shorter route goes over to somewhere near the submarine base but we opted for the longer route which sets you down near the city centre. It was excellent value at about I.5 euros each way, took over half hour and gave great views as it crossed the river then cruised slowly past the submarine base and along the interesting Lorient waterfront.
 
We left Port Louis with a tinge of reluctance this morning. It is a place worth at least a few days I think but a magnet is drawing us towards Roscoff and the ferry on Sunday.

We have stopped in deepest Brittany tonight, specifically in the Finisterre region. The nearest town to us is Châteauneuf du Faou.

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We are a few hundred metres from the Nantes - Brest Canal although here it is a river (l'Aulne) which has became a canal through the addition of weirs and locks. You can see it was a river once by the meandering path it takes.

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One of the perennial problems with canals is how to have an interesting walk beside them which doesn't involve turning around and retracing your steps. This happily wasn't the case here because a couple of kilometres upstream from the aire was not only a bridge over the canal there were paths both sides of the canal creating the opportunity for a circular walk by a canal. Almost a first! :)

This is the weir just below the aire. On the far side is the lock keeper's cottage and in front of it the lock, which is hard to see from here.

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The path on the side nearest aire is a bit rough but wasn't difficult, the only hazards being a few nettles. :)

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At the bridge where we crossed over the canal was this curious sign. I think it means "Stinky Bridges". :)

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This was the view looking upstream from the bridge. These were the only fishermen we saw on the canal today.

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After we had crossed over we picked up the proper towpath which has a fine grit surface. This stretch is part of the La Vélodyssée cycle path which runs up the west coast of France for 1300km from the Spanish border to Roscoff.

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Kilometre markers by the tow path show the distance from Nantes.

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The view of the weir near the aire from the other side.

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The lock and lock keeper's cottage - now a gîte.

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We will visit a vet tomorrow to set up Charlie's worming treatment for the return to the UK. :)

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The lock and the lock keeper’s cottage look kind of familiar - but there are so many similar ones on La Vélodyssée that it’s difficult to remember - but doesn’t the route join the canal a bit further east where it drops down from Carhaix-Plouguer?

Great photos all the same (as usual!).
 
Seen them on quite a few Citadel's in France, you would think they were lookout towers but the windows seem to be in the wrong place.

Knowing the French propensity for urinating ‘en plain aire’ could they not be semi-outdoors pissoirs for all round relief?
 
The lock and the lock keeper’s cottage look kind of familiar - but there are so many similar ones on La Vélodyssée that it’s difficult to remember - but doesn’t the route join the canal a bit further east where it drops down from Carhaix-Plouguer?

Great photos all the same (as usual!).
Very well spotted, the path does indeed leave the canal a bit further east from here at Carhaix Plouguer. I could say I now don't remember this bit of the canal but to be honest long stretches of it look the same.

But it is interesting to see this part of the canal is navigable as there were stretches before we left it going south to north which were only navigable by canoe.

 
We visited the vet this morning in Châteauneuf du Faou, a ten minute drive from the aire we had been staying in for the last couple of nights. This is a bit of an out of the way place for finding a vet but I can strongly recommend Clinique Vétérinaire les Fontaines. The vet spoke good English and Charlie liked him too!

It was then a drive north through the Parc naturel régional d'Armorique which is a region, shown in dark green in the map below, of low hills running through the middle of western Brittany. It's somewhere I would like to return too with parking suitable for a bit of wild camping close to the highest point of the hills, the Roc'h Trédudon.

We have ended up where we started on this trip - at the aire near Cléder a little west of Roscoff.

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We like it here even though there is nothing other than opportunities for a bit of walking on paths and the beach.

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On the beach we walked on today the sand was very firm and very smooth. The homes of lugworms were very easy to spot. The worm makes a U-shaped burrow, the cast sand it expels at one end of the loop and an open hole at the other. When the tide comes in the worm moves up to the top of the burrow to feed.

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