The Big Lorry to Camper Conversion

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Gromett said:
The cost of one or two tubes of Sika are an extremely small part of the build. I will always use Sika because of it's reputation. Saving a few quid on an alternative is a bigger risk than I am prepared to take.
I will always use sika.
Click to expand...

I will go for the best stuff money can buy for glueing the solar down!
 
Paddywack, MANGOFORTH, Gromett, maybe this will ease your anxieties, just had a closer look at a tube of Toolstation's Puraflex I had in the garage and look who makes it !
20200210_204803.jpg
 
So because im an idiot i used house windows in my truck. Turns out house windows have drainage holes in the bottom of them to drain any water into the cavities of a brick wall.

I knew this and sealed up the window. Did a cracking job.

Stupid storm Clara or whatever gave it a battering.

Now the gullys for the runners fill with water...
IMG_20200213_140148.jpg


I need like a flanged rubber hose maybe 5mm. Preferably a D shaped flange....I'm hoping i can drill out the front of the frame and drain it out.

Any ideas where i would get such a rubbery flange?
 
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MANGOFORTH said:
So because im an idiot i used house windows in my truck. Turns out house windows have drainage holes in the bottom of them to drain any water into the cavities of a brick wall.

I knew this and sealed up the window. Did a cracking job.

Stupid storm Clara or whatever gave it a battering.

Now the gullys for the runners fill with water...
View attachment 362534

I need like a flanged rubber hose maybe 5mm. Preferably a D shaped flange....I'm hoping i can drill out the front of the frame and drain it out.

Any ideas where i would get such a rubbery flange?
Click to expand...
Is this what you are looking for? I used this to seal the doors on my trailer.

D-Shape Door Seal 15mm height X 12mm width, Weather Stripping Hollow Black (6 Meter): Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Shop D-Shape Door Seal 15mm height X 12mm width, Weather Stripping Hollow Black (6 Meter). Free delivery on eligible orders of £20 or more.
amzn.to

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This site contains affiliate links for which MHF may be compensated.
This site contains affiliate links for which MHF may be compensated.
No ive explained it stupidly.

The gully fills with water because i sealed the drainage holes up so no water leaked into the frame. This is just how house windows work. No water comes into the truck.

I want to drill through the window frame. From the outside, into the gully....

With a 5mm rubber tube going from the gully to outside. Just need a flanged end to put on the gully side..

So im looking for a flanged end for a 5mm tube i guess. ?‍♂️
 
MANGOFORTH said:
No ive explained it stupidly.

The gully fills with water because i sealed the drainage holes up so no water leaked into the frame. This is just how house windows work. No water comes into the truck.

I want to drill through the window frame. From the outside, into the gully....

With a 5mm rubber tube going from the gully to outside. Just need a flanged end to put on the gully side..

So im looking for a flanged end for a 5mm tube i guess. ?‍♂️
Click to expand...

Will maybe a countersunk rivnut do the job ?
 
what ever you do, don't drill into the hollow casement of the window, but a carefully positioned 4mm drain hole each end of the track is exactly the same as the windows in most A class cabs. Set the depth of the hole so the bottom is 1-2 mm above the depth inside the track. Probably no need to line the hole with a rubber tube
 
How about drilling a hole either side of the outer frame and bonding a small plastic tube in the gap.
eg, leisure battery drain off 90 degree bend /
Any small bore black plastic straight tubing will do. You won't see it as it's black and the window is black.
Just cut it off flush with the window.
OR
Just drill holes in the aluminium and paint the through holes black to save corrosion ?

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TheBig1 said:
what ever you do, don't drill into the hollow casement of the window, but a carefully positioned 4mm drain hole each end of the track is exactly the same as the windows in most A class cabs. Set the depth of the hole so the bottom is 1-2 mm above the depth inside the track. Probably no need to line the hole with a rubber tube
Click to expand...
I think that's all i can do, drill into the hollow casement as you say. Hence the rubber tube to bridge the gap. Cant put drain holes in the bottom as the water will collect in the steel framework of the truck.

Design fault on my behalf.

*Machzoneman* said:
How about drilling a hole either side of the outer frame and bonding a small plastic tube in the gap.
Click to expand...
Thats exactly what i want to do, just want an end to put on the tube, gully side, to get a better seal.
 
MANGOFORTH said:
I think that's all i can do, drill into the hollow casement as you say. Hence the rubber tube to bridge the gap. Cant put drain holes in the bottom as the water will collect in the steel framework of the truck.

Design fault on my behalf.


Thats exactly what i want to do, just want an end to put on the tube, gully side, to get a better seal.
Click to expand...
with a window sliding back and forth, the seal will eventually leak no matter how well you try and seal it

The other option is a length of black plastic or rubber L shaped bonded to the glass to divert the water away would stop half the water getting in
 
Horsebox windows just have a 30MM approx slotted hole in the middle of the window at the outer lower gulley level for accumulated rain water to escape..
 
Just need the inserts/pipe/tube/something/dohicky to bridge the hollow cavity of the window frame ? any ideas?
 
Hi just read through your build so far well done you , you are building it your way you have the knowledge as a fabricator welder so this build will be quality, not as you say like a production line where the build is not as up to scratch , so keep up the good work
 
MANGOFORTH said:
Yes, I brought two roof vent things before we started this build. Don't really know alot about them but they are motorhome spec. Not sure I like them as they are made of plastic. They are called Thule Omnivent... Was that a good or bad purchase?
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I would put in a max air fan front and rear it will give you good ventilation and can be used in the open position in the rain
 
They all are plastic , and all do the same job with different levels of bells and whistles , and corresponding price . It all depends on how much you want to spend and what exactly you consider as must have features .

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Only recommend using inserts on hot water supply it helps keep the hot pipe rigid and fixed
 
Gromett said:
The cost of one or two tubes of Sika are an extremely small part of the build. I will always use Sika because of it's reputation. Saving a few quid on an alternative is a bigger risk than I am prepared to take.
I will always use sika.
Click to expand...
I've always used Tiger Seal. Given the life of PU adhesive once opened every little helps.
 
I am still doing this stupid truck. Very slowly.

Mrs has been asking me to say this..

She's doing and Instagram. It's basically the same as what I've done here but with prettier photos and lots of #####

The handle is...

@Man_go_forth

I don't have Instagram.
 
IMG-20200317-WA0019.jpg
Looks a bit more homely now. Going to cover all the joins up with trim to cover up my wood butchery
IMG-20200317-WA0015.jpg
Made some frames for the skylights to sit in aswell.... My joinery isn't up to Wissel standards though ?

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