Bart
Free Member
I'm lost , well tomorrow is to be sunny , so I'll let you's know what the display shows.That pic says 8W in, well 8W is 0.6A at 12V yet the display is zero ?
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I'm lost , well tomorrow is to be sunny , so I'll let you's know what the display shows.That pic says 8W in, well 8W is 0.6A at 12V yet the display is zero ?
I used similar ones but according to the multimeter all connections are good with 20.5v coming from each panelI bought a set of these connections initially, I could not get them to connect reliably.
Link Removed
I eventually used standard home made screw connectors mounted inside a plastic box - problems solved.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-BM992...375003?hash=item2ef1bfcedb:g:c54AAOSwZVlXiWrs
I used similar ones but according to the multimeter all connections are good with 20.5v coming from each panel
that is the "multi meter" reading from the leads coming from the solar panelsAnd 20.5 volts at the controller? That controller is much more sophisticated than mine.
What is the V out to the battery? Is that the V reading on the screen?
Is there V reading for the solar panels at the controller?
The positive out to the batteries from the MPPT controller is connected to the positive on my battery bank.20V will be the operational voltage of the panels (it may vary by a few volts) and the 8W will be the power being provided by the panel(s). The controller says 0W load to charge the batteries, which corresponds to the display of 0A. Are you sure the batteries are connected (I’d expect something to be going out if they were and your ammeter seems to resolve 1 decimal of current in Amps)?
I asked at the start of this thread ,straight to batteries or via shunt , was advised shunt.Why not directly to the battery?
Set your meter to 20V or higher.
Clip on leads.
If it says 15V the red is connected to positive.
If it says -15V the red is connected to the negative.
Label them with red tape or masking tape.
If it says 0V panic.
yip checked leads and all were fine.Check the meter's set to DC not AC. Double-check your meter settings by probing directly on the battery terminals.
yip Andy had a little bit of light through the cloud today,, not enough to call it sun, but the controller read like 20w and 1.6 or so amps , so at least it showed input to the battery.have you had a look on you tube.. just google your controller type.. there are a couple of good videos of people reviewing it.. i think techno posted a link to one of them a while back...
they are lengthy i.e. 20 odd and 50 odd min long...
if memory serves me correctly in one of those videos the unit under test didn't display a charging current of anything under 0.6 amps ,
hope you get some better light tomorrow..
andy
ps .. the reason for making the connection to the shunt rather than direct to battery is so that the current can be monitored..
Sure will do , heaven knows when that might be as weather forecast looks rubbish........You seem to be set up OK. 1.6A equates to 20W at the batteries and is what to expect on an 'indifferent' day. Let us know the best you get (at noon on a cloudless day).
100 seems so , I'm just glad I fitted my sterling B2B charger first.I think you're providing evidence that solar is not the solution for Winter in the UK. Even more so, the further North you go.
You seem to be set up OK. 1.6A equates to 20W at the batteries and is what to expect on an 'indifferent' day. Let us know the best you get (at noon on a cloudless day).
That is when the load terminals are in use onlyI imagine that's about right
but I notice that the top RH value still shows "0W".
Do you know what that figure is supposed to represent?
Makes me think that those who rave about their solar panel only use them in the Summer.Makes you wonder how little electricity is being generated by solar farms in Northern Europe right now
You have to live within your means.Makes me think that those who rave about their solar panel only use them in the Summer.
Is there a third wire into the controller from the other side of a shunt that provides a measure of the current flowing away from the battery?That is when the load terminals are in use only
But, if it's showing 13.2V and 3.5A, should that not be 46W?It measures what is being used when the load terminals have a load connected to them not to the batteries
It measures what is being used when the load terminals have a load connected to them not to the batteries