Show us your 3d printed bits!

Just got back home and the part was waiting for me 👍👍😁😁 fitted without any fettling at all, it’s perfect and a lot stronger than the original so many thanks to you Morning Major and PaulandChrissy for creating and printing the part 👍👍👍

It’s given me the urge to learn 3D printing and I’m now looking for a printer 😁

David.

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This is the part I've just made for the doorlock on my 2005 Lunar motorhome. I think the lock is made by Seitz. I printed the black one on a Balco (Aldi special) printer while the brown one was on a Creality CR10s. I did the brown one as an experiment.
 

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Bilbat said:
This is the part I've just made for the doorlock on my 2005 Lunar motorhome. I think the lock is made by Seitz. I printed the black one on a Balco (Aldi special) printer while the brown one was on a Creality CR10s. I did the brown one as an experiment.
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Good surface finish, that.

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Bilbat said:
This is the part I've just made for the doorlock on my 2005 Lunar motorhome. I think the lock is made by Seitz. I printed the black one on a Balco (Aldi special) printer while the brown one was on a Creality CR10s. I did the brown one as an experiment.
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Nice job. what material did you print with.
 
jcfx11 said:
I tried Fusion 360 as I thought I'd brush up on 3d design for a CNC router, I already do 3D printing and thought I had a decent handle on the design tools.

Recently I've settled on TinkerCad, an online system that lets me compose articles from simple shapes, cones, squares, you just drag and drop then size them. It also has a full library of interesting parts like screw threads, letters and such. I find it much easier than Fusion 360.

John
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I'm using TinkerCAD too. It's more powerful than its appearance suggests.
 
Interesting Information
I’ve been experimenting with 3D printing materials to see if they can survive extremely hot uses. It seems ASA filament is more than happy being used to make a flue cowling. No sign of deforming or melting at all. Handy to know. Don’t expect PLA or even PETG to do this. Could be used for making blown air outlet grilles etc.
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PaulandChrissy said:
Interesting Information
I’ve been experimenting with 3D printing materials to see if they can survive extremely hot uses. It seems ASA filament is more than happy being used to make a flue cowling. No sign of deforming or melting at all. Handy to know. Don’t expect PLA or even PETG to do this. Could be used for making blown air outlet grilles etc.
View attachment 531398
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In my last van, I moved the blown air heater, so needed to extend the internal piping. The cost of the pipe joints was silly, so I designed and printed one in PLA, thinking there's no way it'll be that hot after nearly 2m of pipework... Wrong! It went floppy in about 5 minutes... ::bigsmile:
 
Guigsy said:
In my last van, I moved the blown air heater, so needed to extend the internal piping. The cost of the pipe joints was silly, so I designed and printed one in PLA, thinking there's no way it'll be that hot after nearly 2m of pipework... Wrong! It went floppy in about 5 minutes... ::bigsmile:
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PLA doesn’t fair well with heat. PETG might have worked, but ASA is by far the most heat resistant. Always be prepared when making things that have to endure heat. You don’t to damage you van.
PaulandChrissy. 👍
 
PaulandChrissy said:
PLA doesn’t fair well with heat. PETG might have worked, but ASA is by far the most heat resistant. Always be prepared when making things that have to endure heat. You don’t to damage you van.
PaulandChrissy. 👍
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Can I ask Paul, is the grey flue drip extension you supplied for our Alde flue, made from PLA? The reason I ask, is that there are signs of slight distortion to it, which could only have resulted from exposure to heat from the flue. 😞

Cheers

Jock. :)
 
JockandRita said:
Can I ask Paul, is the grey flue drip extension you supplied for our Alde flue, made from PLA? The reason I ask, is that there are signs of slight distortion to it, which could only have resulted from exposure to heat from the flue. 😞

Cheers

Jock. :)
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No it’s made from ASA. I would be shocked If it’s distorting. I have been testing my complete flue cowling for a couple of months with no signs of deforming.

PaulandChrissy.
 
Now here’s a perfect case in point ensuring using the correct filament. The first 6 of my Truma Deflector Drips were printed in PETG. but after some months of use, they have deformed. Jock and Rita had one and it deformed. Sending them an ASA version which has no problems dealing with the heat. Sorry to Jock and Rita. New one on its way to you.
Cheers PaulandChrissy.

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This is probably solving a problem that really doesn't exist, but on our ih the heating controls are placed in a rather dark corner that doesn't have any lighting nearby so that when it's getting dark we have difficulty seeing the settings when we want the heating or water on



This is in the dark,



What we've done in the past is had to use a torch, or a phone to help illuminate the area to switch in on as we want it, and whilst we've managed I thought I'd design something up and print out a solution



I've converted the cbe panel from a double, to a triple, and designed the temperature sensor into it as I wasn't happy with the original placement, and the push button switch turns on a tiny strip of 5050 led's, and give just the right amount of illumination

 
PaulandChrissy said:
That will another little learning curve if you haven’t used PETG before.
👍
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On my Prusa i3 Mk2, PLA is a doddle. I just hit print and it works.

PETG is more work. I need to use pritstick on the bed and it's still a pain to remove. Layer adhesion isn't as good. Overhangs that PLA has no issues with need supports with PETG. And it's prone to leaving little fluffy strings on everything.

The main situations I can't use PLA is when things get warmer than about 50C. I'm thinking of trying ePLA which apparently can be annealed which increases the glass temperature to nearly 100C. It's about twice the price of standard PLA though.

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Bobby-gg said:
This is probably solving a problem that really doesn't exist, but on our ih the heating controls are placed in a rather dark corner that doesn't have any lighting nearby so that when it's getting dark we have difficulty seeing the settings when we want the heating or water on



This is in the dark,



What we've done in the past is had to use a torch, or a phone to help illuminate the area to switch in on as we want it, and whilst we've managed I thought I'd design something up and print out a solution



I've converted the cbe panel from a double, to a triple, and designed the temperature sensor into it as I wasn't happy with the original placement, and the push button switch turns on a tiny strip of 5050 led's, and give just the right amount of illumination

Click to expand...
That is cool! Now make it PIR or touch sensitive. ::bigsmile:
 
If you have a Prusa, I would try using ASA. It doesn’t have all the stringy ness, and can withstand much higher temperatures. It prints much cleaner, like PLA, but needs printing at around 265c. 110c Bed.
Do you use the smooth flexi plate for PETG. I use the textured. It adheres really well and just pops off when cooled.
Guigsy said:
On my Prusa i3 Mk2, PLA is a doddle. I just hit print and it works.

PETG is more work. I need to use pritstick on the bed and it's still a pain to remove. Layer adhesion isn't as good. Overhangs that PLA has no issues with need supports with PETG. And it's prone to leaving little fluffy strings on everything.

The main situations I can't use PLA is when things get warmer than about 50C. I'm thinking of trying ePLA which apparently can be annealed which increases the glass temperature to nearly 100C. It's about twice the price of standard PLA though.
Click to expand...
 
PaulandChrissy said:
If you have a Prusa, I would try using ASA. It doesn’t have all the stringy ness, and can withstand much higher temperatures. It prints much cleaner, like PLA, but needs printing at around 265c. 110c Bed.
Do you use the smooth flexi plate for PETG. I use the textured. It adheres really well and just pops off when cooled.
Click to expand...
I've got the original Prusa i3 Mk2 without any of the upgrades. So I've got a fixed smooth bed, which is really difficult when prying off PETG prints. I'd get some upgrades for my Mk2, but it looks like I've missed the boat as it's too old now. I've never run my bed to 110C before... not sure if it'll do it?
 
That’s a shame. I couldn’t live without a flexible plate. It’s so easy to pop things off. As you say though, I film of glue stick does the job. 100c will work. It works on my mini. That only goes to 100c.

PaulandChrissy.
 
PaulandChrissy said:
If you have a Prusa, I would try using ASA. It doesn’t have all the stringy ness, and can withstand much higher temperatures. It prints much cleaner, like PLA, but needs printing at around 265c. 110c Bed.
Do you use the smooth flexi plate for PETG. I use the textured. It adheres really well and just pops off when cooled.
Click to expand...
I have been thinking using ASA but have been put off by reports that you need an enclosure. Do you use one? I use PETG almost exclusively without any issues.

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drpeej said:
I have been thinking using ASA but have been put off by reports that you need an enclosure. Do you use one? I use PETG almost exclusively without any issues.
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I do use an enclosure that I made, and the results are more consistent with it. It’s not essential for printing small items but large prints will benefit from using the enclosure. The main reason for using ASA is for items that need to resist heat.
 
Hi, can anyone recommend where I might get a replacement gear 3D printed for my project 2000 horizontal sliding step (10856). It sheared one morning when it was -5C. Available <Broken link removed> but they don't deliver to UK or here but out of stock. Guess it has to be strong enough to take the force bu weak enough to shear and protect other components. Grateful for any help - am a complete newbie to motorhomes and this is only week 2!
 

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DoroDormobile said:
Hi, can anyone recommend where I might get a replacement gear 3D printed for my project 2000 horizontal sliding step (10856). It sheared one morning when it was -5C. Available <Broken link removed> but they don't deliver to UK or here but out of stock. Guess it has to be strong enough to take the force bu weak enough to shear and protect other components. Grateful for any help - am a complete newbie to motorhomes and this is only week 2!
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Hi
We are in Spain at the moment, but are willing to have a go at trying to make you one, when we return at the end of Feb. Not sure if a 3D printed one will be strong enough, but we could give it a go. I could reinforce it with a small stainless bolt through the middle. If you can wait, I can message you when we get back.

PaulandChrissy.
 

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