Renogy inverters (2 Viewers)

[peterc10]

Hi, I have managed to find a place to fit the Renogy 2000W inverter and have another question please for those that are using them. What is the residual current that the inverter uses, if any, when it is switched off at the remote switch please? The blurb says that there is a residual current of 1.3A, but my guess is that that will be with it switched on with no loads.

 

[Fontie]

My inverter not Renogy when switched off at the remote draws nothing, I would think the Renogy would be the same.

 

[MitchandJenny]

With 2 x 100ah LifePo4’s is the Pos connection put onto one battery and the Neg to the other ??
PS. I don’t have the batteries yet. (On back order). Also not got the Renogy 2,000 that I am considering buying, but want to cover any potential installation problems..
Any (simple and straightforward) help will be gratefully received .
Mitch

 

[tkk]

I’m not expert but it would make sense if your batteries are connected in parallel. If this doesn’t make sense look up threads by more knowledgeable members (a few in the last year or two) More importantly see PeterC10 s post on Amazons Renogy offer. I think its still on. Connection shouldn’t be a problem with correct advice/help. My limited advice is use big cable. The included ones are probably too small and the correct fuse for the cable.

 

[peterc10]

With 2 x 100ah LifePo4’s is the Pos connection put onto one battery and the Neg to the other ??
PS. I don’t have the batteries yet. (On back order). Also not got the Renogy 2,000 that I am considering buying, but want to cover any potential installation problems..
Any (simple and straightforward) help will be gratefully received .
Mitch

Mitch, you wire the batteries together with positive to positive and negative to negative. Then fix the outgoing positive to the positive of one battery and the outgoing negative to the negative of the other battery. If you are going to use a 2000W inverter make sure that you use heavy duty wires, at least 35mm2, for the wiring to and from the inverter and between the batteries.

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[berni109]

Bu¿¿er missed that Amazon deal.
Would have bought one and kept it under the bed until batteries sorted out.

 

[MitchandJenny]

Thanks Peter.
I understand the parallel V series set up and have the solar set up across the 2 batteries in the way you confirm is the method for the inverter, so thanks.
Further to that the amperage is to be set at the combined amperage of both batteries is that correct ??
Mitch

 

[peterc10]

Thanks Peter.
I understand the parallel V series set up and have the solar set up across the 2 batteries in the way you confirm is the method for the inverter, so thanks.
Further to that the amperage is to be set at the combined amperage of both batteries is that correct ??
Mitch

Not sure what you mean with amperage of both batteries. The amperage for the wires should be based on the maximum power the inverter can draw from the batteries, i.e. 2000 watts. At 12v that means that the the maximum current being drawn from the batteries would be nearing 170A. So you will need to make sure the wires can take that. And you should install a mega fuse close to the battery at that sort of rating to protect the wires from overloading.

The batteries should draw down the current load equally, so about 85A each. You will need to check with the manufacturer what the maximum discharge rate is for each battery. With our KS batteries the maximum discharge rate is 100A for each battery.

 

[eurajohn]

Hi, I have managed to find a place to fit the Renogy 2000W inverter and have another question please for those that are using them. What is the residual current that the inverter uses, if any, when it is switched off at the remote switch please? The blurb says that there is a residual current of 1.3A, but my guess is that that will be with it switched on with no loads.

Mine (which is a Renogy 2000w ) draws 1.6 amps when switched on with no output load and zero when switched off.

 

[Tombola]

Not sure what you mean with amperage of both batteries. The amperage for the wires should be based on the maximum power the inverter can draw from the batteries, i.e. 2000 watts. At 12v that means that the the maximum current being drawn from the batteries would be nearing 170A. So you will need to make sure the wires can take that. And you should install a mega fuse close to the battery at that sort of rating to protect the wires from overloading.

The batteries should draw down the current load equally, so about 85A each. You will need to check with the manufacturer what the maximum discharge rate is for each battery. With our KS batteries the maximum discharge rate is 100A for each battery.

yes, combined amps
so if you use a 40ah device, you will see 20ah draw from one, and 20ah from the other
same when charging

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[Tombola]

but my guess is that that will be with it switched on with no loads.

correct

 

[MitchandJenny]

Thanks everyone. All info is valid when considering this envisaged improvement. I will def put a big fuse into the system. The Batteries will be 105ah Fogstar Drift .
I am ex Vet Tech, but a long time ago and not on "new" ( to me) technology, It seems a bit of a waste to fit
2 lifePo4's and not go the next step and put a Renology 2,000 in.
Don't want to go to the extra complication of wiring to the existing sockets, which is outside my sphere of knowledge, so was considering just plugging a RED (to avoid confusion) extension into the inverter output and routing it to a worktop. That should be ok just to run a kettle and toaster, and charge the Laptop and Toothbrush. (Not all at once )
MAYBE even a Microwave once I have checked the "Start-up" Amperage.
I will probably be back on here asking a few more questions when the batteries arrive, so bear with.
Watch this space.
Mitch.

 

[MitchandJenny]

A Quick PS to my last.
We have an Autotrail Tracker with the Sargent 500 PSU.
Mitch.

 

[Tombola]

Is thr EC500 charger suitable for Lithium, its 3 stage 25amp, but I know TCG had this question and system
maybe speak to TCG

 

[MisterB]

Thanks everyone. All info is valid when considering this envisaged improvement. I will def put a big fuse into the system. The Batteries will be 105ah Fogstar Drift .
I am ex Vet Tech, but a long time ago and not on "new" ( to me) technology, It seems a bit of a waste to fit
2 lifePo4's and not go the next step and put a Renology 2,000 in.
Don't want to go to the extra complication of wiring to the existing sockets, which is outside my sphere of knowledge, so was considering just plugging a RED (to avoid confusion) extension into the inverter output and routing it to a worktop. That should be ok just to run a kettle and toaster, and charge the Laptop and Toothbrush. (Not all at once )
MAYBE even a Microwave once I have checked the "Start-up" Amperage.
I will probably be back on here asking a few more questions when the batteries arrive, so bear with.
Watch this space.
Mitch.

It all comes down to what you want out of your setup. We have a 300AH lithium and a 2000w inverter BUT we want to be able to use the microwave AND kettle at the same time. Our inverter trips if we do. So I am going to get a 3000w Renogy inverter (as it has the inbuilt autoswitching)

My point is that would you be better off going for a bigger inverter as a long term fix rather than buying a 2000w one now and then later deciding you want to be able to use more than one power hungry appliance at a time?

Whichever way you decide to go at least you will have considered it and not thought to yourself later ' why didn't I think of that?'

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[TCG]

Is thr EC500 charger suitable for Lithium, its 3 stage 25amp, but I know TCG had this question and system
maybe speak to TCG

No it is not.I contacted Sargent who informed me that the charger does not have a lithium profile...
I got around the whole scenario by fitting a victron multiplus which takes care of the charging and also provides power to all mains sockets
My setup is victron b2b, 300watt solar, victron bmv, victron mppt, 200amp lithium with the victron multiplus which was fitted by vanbitz

 

[MitchandJenny]

Is thr EC500 charger suitable for Lithium, its 3 stage 25amp, but I know TCG had this question and system
maybe speak to TCG

Yes it is suitable .. I spoke to Sargent ..
Mitch

 

[Diabalo]

The EC500 is the PSU the charger is probably a PX300 and the guide can be down loaded from the link.

Sargent PX-300 Charger

PX-300 user guide

www.motorhomefun.co.uk

 

[Garry - June]

Hi,
I have a Frankia also. I presume you have the CBE system in yours. If you haven’t got a B2B ,when the engine runs, are you charging the Lithium’s from the CBE split charge relay? Does it cause any problem? An above post mentions theoretical problem with Alternator overload due to low internal resistance of lithium batteries. I was thinking of just putting a LiFePO into my CBE based system so just checking other members experience
thanks

Hi,
Yes I just kept everything as normal and everything charges as it should ... I, like quite a few others I expect, looked in to the Alternator overload issue, especially a certain Youtube video made by Victron ... but as some others noted their testing procedures were highly suspect and also like others I have more than a suspicion it was made more to get people to fork out a lot of money for something they probably don't need. I can only go by my own experience... I have been running my KS energy Lithiums since last summer...we fulltime in our van so I have given them plenty of use.. Running mostly on EHU through the winter December, Jan, Feb and now purely on solar, Votronic controller with dedicated engine battery trickle charge output which I feed through my EBL , no B2B installed, no issues at all with alternator, batteries working perfectly. We run compressor fridge freezer, 2x TV's, Kettle toaster, Remoska, charging laptops, phones, 2x ebikes and a few other gadgets and the batteries have never dropped below 73% ... here where I am on the Algarve they are back to 100% by 1200 midday

 

[MisterB]

Hopefully a question that can answered simply ...

I have noticed that in the higher powered inverters, they often come with more than one UK three pin socket. Does that 'translate' to each socket being able to provide a proportionate level of power, ie 2 outlets on a 2000w inverter each providing 1000w? Or is it simply that it's just two power outlets from the same supply?

The reason I ask is because I want to add a 3000w inverter to feed 3 different appliances of which two would likely be used at the same time (kettle and microwave) via 3 different circuits with each appliance having its own dedicated circuit.

One solution might be to feed the kettle and microwave from separate outlets on the inverter and also feed the additional socket from one of those outlets ie 2 circuits from one outlet and 1 circuit from m the other?

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[MitchandJenny]

Looked at the 300 Sargent charging rates
( Thanks Diablo ). And they are between 13.6
and 14.4 which IS suitable for LifePo4 batteries according to the battery supplier.
So that is good enough for me.

Mitch

 

[Tombola]

this time last year there was only 1 youtube decent review of the renogy, ups job
this one is ok if you want to know about the UPS switch over aswell (apart from he keeps calling them Reonogy)

 

[MisterB]

i took the plunge and bought a 3000w Renogy inverter, which arrived today, so i did a temp install to check it out.

it delivers what i wanted it for, the ability to power a kettle and a microwave at the same time. i will install it permanently this week sometime.

The manual doesnt mention installing a fuse and states it comes in ready built, but i think i would prefer to fit a fuse even though the cables are prob less than 150mm long. it cam with four cables, two pos and two neg cables and i have used the two sets to connect on the assumption thats why they sent two sets ! The cables they sent are about twice as long as i need, so i will just use one cable (cut into two!) to reduce cable lengths.

What size fuse has anyone else fitted please, or due to the length of the cable being around 150mm when i fit it permanently is an additional fuse necessary? The inverter will be very close to the battery

The above photo shows the location of the battery and inverter

 

[MisterB]

Update on the Renogy 3000w inverter, still happy, but even happier now!

I initially used the supplied cables (marked as 100Amps per cable) but I wanted to reduce their length as I wanted to tidy things up plus less cable = more efficiency I understand

So I cut a cable in half to crimp lugs on as each cable didn't need to be that long, only to find they weren't copper cables but what looks like aluminium!

So decided to replace the two 100A cables (to each connection) with just a single 35mm2 cable (240A)

I got the cable from a BOC outlet (it's welding cable) - it's cost around £15 to buy the cable and lugs to crimp onto it. As it only came in black I wrapped red insulation tape around it - not really needed but it makes me feel happier and much more peace of mind knowing it's a decent sized cable and now being copper should be better (though for the finished length I would imagine there isn't that much difference)

 

[RedFrame]

Update on the Renogy 3000w inverter, still happy, but even happier now!

I initially used the supplied cables (marked as 100Amps per cable) but I wanted to reduce their length as I wanted to tidy things up plus less cable = more efficiency I understand

So I cut a cable in half to crimp lugs on as each cable didn't need to be that long, only to find they weren't copper cables but what looks like aluminium!

So decided to replace the two 100A cables (to each connection) with just a single 35mm2 cable (240A)


View attachment 750413View attachment 750417

I got the cable from a BOC outlet (it's welding cable) - it's cost around £15 to buy the cable and lugs to crimp onto it. As it only came in black I wrapped red insulation tape around it - not really needed but it makes me feel happier and much more peace of mind knowing it's a decent sized cable and now being copper should be better (though for the finished length I would imagine there isn't that much difference)

View attachment 750429

Your first picture is a bit fuzzy, are you sure they're not tinned copper?

Cheers
Red.

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[MisterB]

Your first picture is a bit fuzzy, are you sure they're not tinned copper?

Cheers
Red.

Pretty sure not, they are copper clad aluminium.

Whether copper clad aluminium is better than copper or aluminium is prob negligible for the length of cable I am using, but the advantage of it being easier to connect just one cable to each terminal and that I now have a 240A cable instead of two 100A cables seems to be an improvement in my mind.

Another plus point is that the protective caps over the inverter terminals now fit properly!!

 

[Lenny HB]

So decided to replace the two 100A cables (to each connection) with just a single 35mm2 cable (240A)

Too small for that size inverter I would use 70 mm sq or if the cable length is much over a metre 95 mm sq.

 

[MisterB]

Too small for that size inverter I would use 70 mm sq or if the cable length is much over a metre 95 mm sq.

Thanks, the cable length is only about 10 inches and in sure it's better than what was supplied. Would they supply cable rated to 200Amps if it was not sufficient?

Though having read your suggestion I have just tested with the microwave and kettle on at the same time and nothing is getting even warm, neither connections to terminals or the cable.

 

[dawsey]

Just make sure that the peak discharge rating of the batteries is not being exceeded. At 3kW you will be pulling around 230A out of the batteries assuming minimal voltage drop. I have 2 x 100ah and the max is 2 x 100A.

Aluminium, if that’s what your cables are, has roughly 50% higher resistance than copper. It does makes the length of the 12V run more important for a given CSA - but a useful test is to feel to see if they get hot. If they did not even get warm (which is OK) after a few minutes of hundreds of amps passing through I’d be a bit surprised at those sizes.

 

[MisterB]

I have just tested the EHU pass through on the inverter aswell now. I put the kettle on when connected to 240v EHU and checked it was on. I then isolated the 240v so no EHU was providing power. The inverter was switched on and left running. It uses approx 1.4 Amps while on 'standby'.

The inverter seamlessly continued supplying power, only this time via the 12v battery supply and the kettle continued heating the water.

I have yet to test it while out and about and of course I'm not sure of the practicalities of this function yet and how best to use it.

I only have 3 sockets connected via the inverter and 3 sockets via the EHU (which I will lose when in 12v off grid mode), this is in the basis of not attempting to push the inverter when in off grid mode. Whether that's the right thing to do ....????, but it's doing what I wanted it to do i.e. power the microwave and kettle at the same time and change from one power supply to another simply!

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